TGOC2014: Lindy's Story

The Great Outdoors Challenge 2014

Lindy Griffiths, Challenger no. 121

First impressions of the crossing were that it was fabulous! There were hard bits, of course – and some that were plain downright nasty – but on the whole it was just about as brilliant as it could be.

Here is the tale…

  

Wed 7^th & Thursday 8^th May 2014

Wednesday was Ron’s Birthday, so we chose to start the journey north a day early, having an extra night and a celebratory meal on the east coast of Scotland. On Thursday we pootled across country dropping supply parcels at Newtonmore Hostel and Cannich Campsite. Arriving in Dornie was exciting, as it meant the start was so near. After a nice bar meal I retired for a final faf with my gear.

Friday 9^th May 2014

The plan

OS SHEETS	DISTANCE (km)	ASCENT (m)	OVERNIGHT HALT
33, 25	28k,  17.4 miles	+540m,  (250 descent)	Wildcamp 126304
Road south of Loch Long to 897278, over bridge to path up River Glennan,easterly to Carnas-luinie; Glen Elchaig, cross bridge 968278, track eastwards to iron Lodge. Take path up past waterfall past loch an Droma and down to Loch Mullardoch. Wildcamp vicinity of ruin at Am Màm 126304.

High adrenaline coupled with a lovely breakfast led to me doing the statutory ‘dipping the toes in the water’ thingy and Ron taking photos.  

Sign out was at 9.00am, and after saying my last goodbyes I was finally off up the track along the south of Loch Long, (which isn’t – it is one of the shortest lochs I know of!), finally stepping out into the hills along the River Glennan

There were primroses and violets everywhere. 

I really knew I was in the mountains when the first bealach loomed into sight.

A brief pause to catch my breath and exchange a few words with other challengers was followed by a difficult descent to the little community of Camas–luinie. The whole hillside had been churned up in preparation for tree planting, big holes scooped out, no path in sight.

This was followed by a delightful trot up the River Elchaig and Loch Leitreach to Iron Lodge.

I was beginning to think that this was going too well when I began the serious climbing up the pass that would take me over to Loch Mullardoch.

Suffice to say that I had been warned……

By the time I got down to the loch shore it was late – about 8.30pm. The path meets the loch at a river. Scoping about, there was no easy crossing. No alternative – I was in for my first dousing of the crossing. Boots off, sandals on, trouser legs unzipped and tied up out of the way, I tentatively stepped into the freezing water. Nasty! 

At the end of the day, crossing that freezing river sapped all my remaining strength, and the realisation that there was a convenient patch of grass just by me led to an instant decision about where to set up camp!

Saturday 10^th May2014

The plan

OS SHEETS	DISTANCE (km)	ASCENT (m)	OVERNIGHT HALT
25, 26	27km, 16.7 miles	+300,  -400	Campsite, Cannich
Follow north of lochside, diverting up Allt Taige to 180319, continue on lochside to pick up track at 218316. Follow track to Cannich.

I woke at first light. The saying goes "Red sky in the morning, shepherd's warning". Oh boy was that warning right! It soon started to rain, and rain hard. 

Breakfast. Struck camp. Set off at 4.45 am. Rain. Unremitting rain. Boggy lochshore, badly eroded. Hard going. Cross rivers. Exhausting. Everything that I had been warned about came to pass, and a bit more! I kept going. What more can I say?

Eventually I got down to the dam at the bottom of Loch Mullardoch. Relief! Feeling that I had returned to civilisation (there were cars and people: walkers out for a day in the hills) I found a little quiet spot and to eat a bite then curled up and (covered by my storm shelter, because it was still raining) had a little sleep.

Restored once more, I trundled gently down the valley on the roadway through pretty woodland to Glen Cannich. Still tired out I sat awhile by the river watching dippers  on the stones, eventually returning to trudge on. 

Brief excitement – fire in the treetops! Weird! It had stopped raining by now, but everything was soaking wet. Why could I see smoke? Getting closer, I realised that a tree had fallen against a powerline. Every time the wind blew, the branches were catching fire, crackling and burning up high above me. Then the wind would drop, and the tree would sway back, the burning would fade away – thanks to the soggy conditions, no doubt – and the cycle would begin again. Concerned in case this would lead to a big fire on a drier day – or a power outage somewhere, I tried my phone – no signal of course. I took a GPS reading of the location and noted it down. I could report it later.

Getting to the campsite was an anti-climax. Tired out, I retrieved my supplies parcel, told them about the ‘fire’ so they could phone through for me, then pitched my tent and found a café that made a decent baked potato with tuna, plus tea and cake. A shower made me feel a bit more human, but by now it was raining again. Can’t have everything! Just as I was making preparations to go to bed Lousie Evans and Laura Liddell turned up. They had had an awful day. The path they had been intending to take to Tomich had been closed by forestry work, so they had diverted here to Cannich, adding a good few miles to their journey. Chatting for a while they told me to look out for Fred Campbell, their walking companion from earlier, who was heading the same way as me tomorrow.

Sunday 11^th May 2014

The plan

OS SHEETS	DISTANCE (km)	ASCENT (m)	OVERNIGHT HALT
26, 25, 34	26k, 16.1 miles	+570,  -510	Wildcamp,  rear Torgyle Bridge
Leave Cannich SE by road, cross bridge & turn R, minor road to Kerrow and continue towards Tomich, taking track trending SSW climbing hill and roughly following powerline, via junction at Loch a’Ghreidlein (322262), turn W the SWesterly, to Loch na Beinne Baine (293198, southerly to the col between Beinn Bhàn and Meakk Ruigh Uisdein (290 177) and down to Torgyle Bridge. Wildcamp.

Another early start saw me take the road to Tomich. It wasn’t raining! I got to the hotel in Tomich in time for a fine second breakfast. Suitably fortified I began what I know would be a huge climb up out of the valley. When I did it last Easter the paths had been icy. Today there was a little mud here and there, but the going was good. Getting up onto the ridge I joined the ‘Balfour-Beatty Track’ that had been built for the construction of the Beauly-Denys powerline.

Love it or hate it, the track is actually good for walking on. On a day of intermittent downpours it was a godsend! I found the engineering interesting in places, especially the water management systems that had been built into the track.

Briefly I walked with David and Margaret Mitchell and Bob and Marlyn Simpson, stopping to brew up with them at the side of the trackway, then I pushed on, on my own.

Early in the afternoon I was feeling very soggy and tired out when I spied a number of earthmoving machines parked up – and a welfare cabin with its door open. Calling out “Is anybody there?” a reply came – and a challenger sporting a red buff on his head popped out his head. This was Fred, Louise and Lorraine’s erstwhile companion. The cabin was a haven from the rain. Fred had been sorting out his wet gear and taking a rest. He even had his tent hung up on coat-pegs to dry! The Mitchells and Simpsons called in briefly but did not stop. 

After a brief respite from the worst of the rain, I set off again between squalls. Looking back a little later I could see the cabin perched up on the shoulder of the hill in the distance, high above Loch na Beinne Baine.

As the day wore on and the miles increased I grew weary. Suddenly I found the perfect seat! A rock at the side of the roadway (at NH294158) was the perfect dimensions for my bottom! A snack and foot airing always has restorative powers. I was soon on my way again.

A pile of rocks, tumbled by the construction works at a corner on the track just cried out to become a cairn at the summit of the col between Meall na Doire and its un-named partner. I helped them a little, moving some interesting shaped pieces together. I always add rocks to cairns, but this is the first time I have felt the drive to build one. It is strange, but I felt it was a celebration of my day, high above the world. After this long day, but still with lots of energy to spare, it was quite spiritual! I took photos and then set off again. 

The descent to Torgyle Bridge was exciting for me – I have always loved seeing geology exposed by civil-engineering works. 

The cuttings recently hewn on this descent were amongst the most interesting I have ever seen, with intrusions of granite into country rock. I wished I had time to spend a whole day here, looking at the rocks and working out the succession of events, but it was getting late, and sadly I had to drag myself away.

I had planned to climb up the other side of Glen Moriston, to camp in a clearing I had identified near the old Military Road. In the event, seeing the Mitchells and the Simpsons setting up camp on the banks of the river by Torgyle Bridge, I made a snap decision to join them for the night. It was a lovely pitch.

Monday 12^th May 2014

The plan

OS SHEETS	DISTANCE (km)	ASCENT (m)	OVERNIGHT HALT
34	26k 16.1 miles	+630 -390	NH 382029 (Height 350m)
From Torgyle Bridge (309129). Leave road at 308128 and climb SW with track to junction 293116, then take Old Military Rd to Allt Phocsichain take Old Military Rd to Ft Augustus, resupply. A82 south to 371070, turn NE onto minor Rd then at 373072 onto track, Gen Wade’s Military Rd. Camp at Blackburn Bothy 382 029

An early, dry start, saw me climbing the valley side following the new powerline. Here there was no trackway, and I was crossing open country. Slow going, very steep, but suddenly I found the track I was looking for. It seems that the Old Military Road and the new Balfour-Beatty road are one and the same in many places. I had a lovely morning walking across moorland and through forest before dropping down to Fort Augustus. Commanding both the end of Loch Ness and the locks on the Caledonian Canal this must have been a very important strategic place back in the mists of time. Today it is full of tourists from all over the world. It has nice loos (where I washed my feet in a hand-basin!) and a shop that sold everything I needed for resupply including a nice wee dram…. 

Finding a seat by the locks I ate my lunch and was happy to be joined by Oliver, a Challenger I had met on my previous crossings. Strolling through the village I also bumped into Fred again. It’s funny how people’s paths keep crossing.

Heading out from the tourist throng the couple of miles of road before the beginning of the Old Militairy Road to the Corrieyairack Pass seemed to go on and on for ever. 

My feet were sore and tired, and I was actually feeling quite hot and bothered (as the sun was shining for a change). I took the opportunity, once I got off the road, to find a quiet spot to rest. Food, drink, boots off, snooze! I know how to get myself feeling positive again!

Once again Balfour-Beatty were much in evidence. Work was going on all around me, just over the fence from where I was resting. 

Their trackway roughly parallels the ancient route I was on. Huge wagons carried tons of rock, pick-up trucks zoomed about, and a general send of ‘busy-ness’ was in the air. All the new tracks made for some interesting navigation. I was quite pleased when a guy on a quad bike stopped to chat. Employed on the local estate, he confirmed I was on the right track and sent me on my way with a cheery wave. I think he was off feeding grouse. There seemed to be a number of the pens for raising them as I climbed up out of the valley towards Blackburn Bothy.

I had looked forward to exploring the environs of the bothy, as a result of my experiences in 2012, but it started to rain just as the bothy came into sight. Two tents were pitched up on the grass outside, but after a peep inside the bothy I knew I was happy to spend the night under a roof! A quick word with Challenger Kirsten Paterson in one of the tents warned me of a dead deer in the stream above the bothy, and gave me guidance about where she had collected water, so off I went. Sure enough I found the sad corpse, and trotted higher up the Black Burn to collect my water. By now the rain had turned to a torrent and I was glad to get inside four walls to sort myself out and make a meal. I was later joined by a very wet Maggie Hems, also glad to escape the weather. Kirsten popped over form her tent for a chat, but I didn’t see David Wishart till the next morning.

Tuesday 13^th May 2014

The plan

OS SHEETS	DISTANCE (km)	ASCENT (m)	OVERNIGHT HALT
34, 35	20k 12.4 miles	+430m -480m	Garva Bridge (Height 300m)
From Blackburn Bothy follow the military road over the Corrieyairack Pass, halting at Melgarve Bothy for a break and continuing on to wildcamp near Garva Bridge (NN524948)

David was camped in a Trailstar similar to my own, so when we chatted in the morning we compared notes on how we pitch the shelter – and he showed me his brilliant idea: he had the inner from an old tent as a ‘nest’ to keep out the bugs. Brilliant! I have been mulling what to do about this, and have been lucky to have avoided any nights when they are biting so far. The purpose made ‘nests’ although light are expensive, and I had been thinking about how to make my own. This seemed like a great compromise, if a suitable inner was available.

In 2012 I had a very difficult day on the Corrieyairack Pass. Coming in from Invergarry I attempted to cut across country with a traverse from Aberchalder to Blackburn Bothy on ‘Storm Sunday’. Because the weather was so bad and the streams were up I ended up taking a route over the tops and taking a easterly bearing for the pass. I got embroiled in the early stages of the Balfour-Beaty construction and had a very unpleasant time before I finally got onto the Old Military Road. One of the main targets for this year’s Challenge was to follow the pass without the danger of hurricane force winds, to see where incidents had occurred on that awful day, and to think about the decisions I had taken at the time. In many ways this was going to be a day to ‘lay the ghost’ of the day that Scotland  had almost killed me.

I enjoyed my early morning tramp, and saw a very unusual beetle scuttling among the stones on the trackway.

Climbing away from Blackburn Bothy it was some time before I began to recognise the terrain. I had not realised that my struggle across country in 2012 had taken me so far from the ideal route, but eventually I realised that this was the point where I had tried, unsuccessfully, to cross from the new trackway to the Military Road on Storm Sunday. 

Only about 50m separated the two tracks, but I vividly remembered the fluid peat underfoot, and the sensation that there was no bottom, as I hauled myself back to the new construction. Today I took lots of photos, seeing huge dumper trucks slowly grinding their way upwards, carting stone from the quarry at the bottom of the pass high up into the hills.

In 2012 I had followed the new trackway from that point to where the construction work ended some way higher up. Today I was able to identify where I had climbed, taking shelter behind two huge boulders to rest and eat. 

I remember the cold, and the wind battering me, wishing I could stay in the shelter behind the boulders, but having to move because the hillside was awash, and I had realised that the water was running underneath me, as well as over me. From the position of the boulders I was able to work out where I had eventually made it onto the Old Military Road on that terrible day.

 I remember how I sent out a prayer of relief at that point – although I still had a big struggle making the summit in that wind, and getting down the other side to Melgarve Bothy.

Although the climb was hard work today, it was cathartic to work my way up the Military Road on a pleasant day, realising that on Storm Sunday I had indeed done the right things in the conditions, and that I could not have done anything better. 

By the time I reached the summit of the pass I was feeling good. It was, however, really weird seeing the construction crews working just a few metres away so high up in the hills.

There is something counter-intuitive about seeing trucks driving past when you know you have just climbed up a huge hill! I paused briefly at the summit for a snack, waving to the passenger in a pickup truck passing just yards away from me on the Balfour-Beaty track.

Climbing up the pass I had been looking at the pylons that had been built, and the ‘pads’ that were being prepared for other pylons to be erected. Once over the top, dropping below the snowline once more, I watched crews erecting the giants, thinking what skilled, and dangerous work it was.

David Wishart caught up with me on the descent, and we talked about these developments as we walked down to Melgarve Bothy. Stepping into the bothy I recognised Sam Hackett from earlier Challenges. We had a lighthearted lunch-break, and when I was ready I pushed on down to Garva Bridge. There was quite a collection of tents there already, and I joined in happily, enjoying being part of the crowd, but also pleased that my crossing of the Corrieyairack Pass had gone so well, and that now I was feeling good about the place, not haunted.

Wednesday 14^th May 2014

The plan

OS SHEETS	DISTANCE (km)	ASCENT (m)	OVERNIGHT HALT
35	23km,  14.3 miles	+120m,  -150m	Newtonmore Hostel
Follow military road from Garva Bridge to Lagan  (NN615945) then road-walk (A86) to Newtonmore.

I made an early start again, taking photos of the frosty tents by the river at Garva Bridge before striking camp and setting off. 

Flooding after the storm in 2012

Today was to be a peaceful trundle, all road walking, no climbing or descent to speak of, on minor roads to Laggan, and then on to Newtonmore. When I walked through here in 2012 there had been significant flooding and I had been very curious about the old bridge standing proud of the waters  ...

The same place in 2014

... but this year the old 'Wade' bridge stood out from the grass of the field at the side of the new road.

I stopped by the lochside just past Sherrabeg. The water was so still the landscape was mirrored.

Sitting in the quiet morning I dozed gently for a while. The exertions of the past few days were catching up with me. Listening to my body I promised to be ‘gentle’ today.

Just outside Laggan I heard two grouse squabbling – and took a sequence of photos of the tousle from really close up. Eventually one of them submitted to the other. I don’t think they ever knew I was there!

I was really pleased to see work going on at Laggan stores and a sign in the window saying that the shop would be re-opening soon. I am still grateful to the previous owner for her kindness in 2012, when I arrived in Laggan, so exhausted after my crossing of the Corrieyairack.

Making use of the public toilet across the road from the shop, once again I enjoyed the wall paintings done by the local primary school.

Although I have driven the road from Laggan to Newtonmore it is a far different experience to walk it. There were a number of notable sights, including the small graveyard tucked under the trees near Cluny Castle, and a somewhat bizarre red guardsman’s box (complete with cut-out guardsman) by the road.

Arriving at the hostel in Newtonmore was a delight. An oasis for Challengers, I was quickly fed cake and given a mug of tea, then Alli showed me to my room and my precious resupply parcel. A blur of chatter ensued, meeting, greeting and catching up with everyone else who was there. I met Emma Warbrick, with whom I was sharing a room. We realised that we would have to be careful with our jackets, because we both had the same blue Paramo. A fabulous, (very filling) meal at ‘The Glen’ in the company of Mike Gillespie, Patrick Deane and Alan MacDonald followed, leaving me realising that an early night was much needed! Just after I had started getting ready for bed Louise Evans (of Lousie and Laura from Cannich campsite) turned up – in a tearing hurry as she wanted to get to the Glen for a meal. Laura Liddell was somewhere behind her – I was asleep before she materialised.

Tursday 15th May 2014

The plan

OS SHEETS	DISTANCE (km)	ASCENT (m)	OVERNIGHT HALT
35	22km,  13.7 miles	+200,  -80	Camp at Ruigh aiteachain bothy, 847928
Take A86 ENE to Kingussie, junction turn SSE then E on B970, to Drumguish, 789998. Take path heading SE to 806986 then easterly to 824983. Follow signs to cross footbridge, then rejoin path marked on the map at 826982 past Corarnstilmore and into Glen Feshie 848976. Take path south, crossing the river by the bridge at 850965. NB the Bridge further S at 846937 is down. Continue on the path up the valley, past the camping near the bothy at Ruigh-aiteachain

Having got my gear ready before bed last night I was able to creep out of my room at the hostel for an early breakfast. Fred Campbell was there too, and we chattered as we ate. Various others surfaced, and before long the kitchen was quite full. 

I took a picture, then headed off towards Kingussie, popping into the Co-op for a block of cheese and a carrot to nibble on. It was a lovely morning, and I enjoyed the walk up the cycle path from Newtonmore to Kingussie. I had seen Mike, Patrick and Alan going into the Co-op as I left, and before long they came steaming past me at a great rate of knots. Turning down to Ruthven Barracks I headed towards the Feshie, pausing to chat about the weather and the Challenge with a man in Tromie Bridge.

Having felt a bit worn out yesterday, my excellent meal and sleep in a real bed last night seemed to have filled me full of energy, and I was raring to go. I trotted happily through the woodland, and was just about to walk into the open again when Sam Hackett and Richard Bannister caught me up.

I joined them for a snack at the ruin at Baileguish, before they yomped off again. At a more sedate pace I followed on, meeting up with two Davids: Wishart and Williams, before stopping for another snack at the bridge over the Feshie just below Achleum, where I met Jeremy Prall.

I walked on from here on my own, marvelling at the lovely views and the new paths and simple bridges that have been built.

I was having a truly ‘good to be alive’ day, bouncing along the trail in the sun. I stopped to chat with a pair of lady walkers who were camping at Glenmore and exploring the region, before pushing on to the bothy at Ruigh-teachain. Since my last visit there someone has done a lot of hard work tidying up the place. It was pristine! Even the edges of the turf outside had been neatly trimmed.

The bothy was my target for the day, but I had arrived there by 2pm. I stopped to have a proper rest and a brew of tea, but decided to press on and see if I could make it up to the ‘Pony Hut’ where I had pitched last year. Then I had walked up from Kingussie. Today I had come up from Newtonmore. Could I extend my day by that much? I knew I was fitter than last year, but last year I had arrived at the hut shattered. Could I do it? I knew there were a few other pitches I could use if I had to stop sooner.

While I was brewing up two other walkers surfaced. They were using the bothy to explore the local peaks, and had been there for a few days. We chatted for a while, then I set off again, still full of wonder at this fabulous valley.

I was a bit nervous about the sections of the path which last year had crossed recent rock falls. Happily, work had been done on them, and although they were a bit ‘airy’ still, there was no reason to worry.

As I climbed I paused to chat with Mike, Patrick and Alan who had made camp in a nice clearing beside the river, before climbing on into the evening.

By now it was cooling off, and quite a stiff wind was blowing, luckily into my back. 

Finally the ‘Pony Hut’ appeared, with just one little green tent in residence. 12 hours on the go today (with quite a few ‘snacks’!) Ian Sinclair showed me how he had located his stove in the lee of the hut to cook his meal, and kindly joined me to chat whilst I made my meal there too. By the time I had eaten it was too cold to linger outside any longer, so I bade good night and turned in.

FRI 16th

The plan

OS SHEETS	DISTANCE (km)	ASCENT (m)	OVERNIGHT HALT
43	23k, 14.3 miles	+250,  -200	Camp by White Bridge
From Ruigh-aiteachain  continue up Glen Feshie, passing the shieling & waterfalls at 908885. Continue on path in easterly direction then descend along the path along Geldie Burn and to White Bridge.

Once again I was up very early, and set off at about 6.30am. The wind was much stronger today, but it looked as if it would stay fine. A brief removal of my jacket was soon reversed as I negotiated the Eidart Bridge over the waterfall. 

 I found it quite ‘spooky’ there last year – and as I approached again this year I felt uneasy again. I can’t explain this. There are lots of rather dubious bridges to cross on the Challenge – but this is the only one to affect me in this way. I wonder if something odd has happened there at some point in the past, and I am feeling some ‘vibrations’ from it?

I met another camper soon after the bridge – thinking he was a Challenger I stopped to chat, but no, he was another lone walker, who in this case was heading westward, not east.

I was quite cross to note how much the path had been chewed up by mountain bikes – and was passed by a number of folk on said contrivances who were off to bag various mountains. The boggy conditions could have been worse, but I did not enjoy this section, although the views were lovely. 

Hitting the track near Geldie Lodge the going improved, and I set off at a faster rate, feeling like I was now on ground I knew well as I approached the crossing of the Geldie at the ruin. 

After a brief snack (during which Ian caught me up) we were just about to set off again when we saw two walkers crossing the Geldie burn. One got over – but the other was in trouble. Thinking they were Challengers we went to see if we could help. It was a young man and his uncle, who were off to walk up the Lairig Ghru. The uncle was having trouble (no sticks, big pack, trying to cross barefoot). Eventually we saw him sit down on the far side to put his boots on. The young man assured us that they would be alright, so we set off for White Bridge.

Arriving at White Bridge at about 11.30, I was again well ahead of schedule. I paused for an early lunch, complete with a proper brew of tea. I was in two minds. Should I walk down to Mar Lodge and stay the night, or should I push on to Braemar, and stop an extra night there. (My plans were to arrive in Braemar late on Saturday, then to take a rest day on Sunday. My husband Ron was coming up on Saturday to join me at the Youth Hostel for the weekend, bringing supplies I needed.) Musing, over tea, Mike, Patrick and Alan passed by. Ian set off soon after them, as he had a B&B booked in Braemar for that night. I lolled about for a while, before realising that I would probably get bored spending an extra day in Braemar, but as I had never done more than call in for a cup of tea at Mar Lodge, I would camp there tonight so I could explore it a bit more. I tidied up after myself and set off once again.

The walk down the valley from White Bridge is one I have done many times. Today I trotted down the track, noticing how many trees had been broken or uprooted by the storms over the winter, and stopped to talk with other walkers out and about in the valley. I was glad when the trees around Linn of Dee came into view.

My tradition is to paddle in the waters at the Linn of Dee. The swirl holes fascinate me. Every time I visit I see something new. Having my traditional break I talked with a group of Canadian women who had done some long distance walking at home. They were curious about the TGO Challenge, so I told them how to find the website. Perhaps they might join us as Challengers in the future?

I am not sure if it was because I was ahead of schedule, or if it was just that I had gone into some sort of ‘overdrive’ but I was feeling very strong today, and bounced along the path by the river, full of the joys of spring! Climbing up to the road near the car park I bumped into Frank Davis and his daughter Rhoda, who were also heading to Mar Lodge. They continued along the road while I went to sample the delights of the composting toilets in the car park…

The sign pointing Challengers down to Mar Lodge lifted my spirits, with a promise of tea for Challengers. 

Walking down the hill I once again marvelled at the impact of landscaping after the wildness of the hills.

Arriving at about 3pm, the Gun Room at Mar Lodge was once again a lovely place to sit, drink tea and chat with like-minded souls. After a brief respite I made arrangements to camp, then went to find a pitch on their beautifully manicured lawn. 

The delights continued. We could use ‘the facilities’ in the ‘Base Camp’ – which turned out to be toilets, showers, a kitchen and a sitting room – just like in a youth hostel. Luxury! It has to be said that I made use of the facilities to the full! One thing I really miss when I am camping is being able to sit on a proper chair, so escaping from the ground for a few hours was lovely. Added into that was the opportunity to meet other Challengers, some of whom were staying in the rooms at Base Camp. Amongst some who I met there were Margaret and Bernard Fowkes and Margaret Brown.

I had decided not to go to the ‘dinner’ that evening, as I was carrying food for tonight’s meal. It seemed silly to carry it all the way from Newtonmore and not eat it. After what turned out to be my shortest day so far (about eight and a half hours of walking interspersed with lots of excuses for stops) I turned in early again, and didn’t notice anyone coming back to their tents from the dinner.

Saturday 17^th May 2014

The plan

OS SHEETS	DISTANCE (km)	ASCENT (m)	OVERNIGHT HALT
43	16k, 10 miles	+40m  -100m	SYHA Braemar 01339 741 659
Continue down valley through Linn of Dee and Mar Lodge, then to Braemar. NB Extra climb  and descent of 100m if path via viewpoint at Tomintoul is taken to avoid the last bit of road into Braemar

I was lazy this morning, rolled over and went back to sleep, finally surfacing at about 8.00. After breakfast, a shower and striking camp it was about 9.30 – so I went and had a tea at the gun room again! I knew Ron wouldn’t be in Braemar till much later today, and couldn’t stir my stumps!

The stroll from Mar Lodge down to Braemar over the Dee via the lovely old iron 'Victoria Bridge' only took me till late morning. 

Moments after getting into the village I bumped into Chris and Sue Marshall, who I had met in 2013 on a horrible day in the Monadliaths. We caught up on our crossings so far this year, then I trundled up to the Youth Hostel to leave my bag there. The warden kindly let me have the key for our room, so, unencumbered by my pack and boots, I trotted off down into the village to do a little shopping and to get something to eat. 

On the way I stopped to take a picture of a lovely old car. I bought some bits and pieces in Mountain Sports. A brief stroll around the village, bumping into more old friends from previous crossings and suddenly my body went into 'shut-down'mode. I was drawn by some irresistible force to 'The Bakery', which was heaving with Challengers and which had some very interesting 'Challenge Specials' on the menu. It was my duty to test them out! I was still there when Ron arrived in Braemar with all the goodies I needed for resupply.

Sunday 18^th May 2014 – Rest Day, Braemar

Sleeping. Eating. A run in the car up to Linn of Dee with Ron. More sleeping. Chatting with Challengers. Cleaning gear. Mending things. Sleeping. Eating. Packing for tomorrow.

Monday 19^th May 2014

The plan

OS SHEETS	DISTANCE (km)	ASCENT (m)	OVERNIGHT HALT
43/44	28k,  17.4mi	+560m,  -690m	Glen Clova hostel or camp nearby
A93 south to Auchallater (156882) then track up Glen Callater to Jock’s Road. Descend into Glen Doll and on to Glen Clova Hotel/hostel

An early start again: I left the hostel at 6.45. The walk up the road to Auchallater was unremarkable. I was happy to get back onto tracks again. It was a lovely morning for walking, climbing gently to Lochcallater Lodge.

I knew many Challengers had come up here the previous night, and have heard many tales about the hospitality of this place, but I was not expecting to be welcomed with a cup of tea and a bacon butty! What a treat! After meeting Bill (I didn’t catch his second name) who seemed to be in charge of proceedings, I set off again, heading up the loch. 

Last time I was here I found the biggest dog paw-prints I have ever seen. I was a tad nervous in case their owner should be in the locality today – but didn’t see any dogs at all once I left the Lodge, thank goodness. Getting to the top of the loch I was passed by Steve O’Hara and Heather Elston, who were climbing very fast in comparison to my tortoise speed.

To walk the famous ‘Jock’s Road’ has been my ambition for many years. There is some interesting information about it to be found about it on  http://www.heritagepaths.co.uk/ .

In the 1880s a new landowner tried to stop access to this route. Action was taken in the courts, going as far as the House of Lords, with a decision being taken that that the historic route should remain a right of way. The name ‘Jock’s Road’ comes from John Winter (Jock) who was one of those to testify in this legal battle.

It had been an important drove route for sheep and cattle from Braemar to Cullow near Kirriemuir, despite rising so high that for many months of the year it is impassable. Markets were held a couple of days apart to give the drovers enough time to transport the animals left from the first market to the second. Cattle thieves and whisky smugglers are also thought to have used Jock’s Road. In 1745 it was used by about 700 Highlanders on their way to fight at Culloden, and by refugees who fled to Glen Clova and Glen Esk after the battle.

I knew that it was going to be a really big day for me. My habit is to walk valleys and moors, and not often to climb mountains. All winter I had been training with this day in mind. Ahead of me was the big climb. Could I make it? I set off, determined to tackle it bit by bit. The path itself disappeared, and I found myself climbing the hillside, checking my GPS from time to time. Worryingly, misty cloud had appeared and the temperature had fallen. The last thing I wanted on a climb like this was for the weather to break. I climbed on.

Surprisingly, there were lots of flowers, particularly a white star-like flower that I did not know the name of. I took photos, deciding that I would find out its name when I got home. (My researches surprisingly show the only plant with flowers and leaves to match this photo is the Wood Anemone. Is this a remnant of the ancient forest I wonder?) 

Then I saw a frog hopping away from me. Another photo opportunity! Gently I climbed. It wasn’t as bad as I had expected. 

The terrain was mainly grassy underfoot ...

... the going reasonably easy, though very steep. The climb just went on, and on, and on. Would I ever get to the top!

Suddenly I went over a sort of ‘lip’ in the hillside, and the angle became much more gentle. Stopping for a breather I saw someone climbing up from below. They were going much faster than I had climbed. I took a breather, thinking it would be nice to have some company for a little while, feeling exultant at reaching what was obviously nearly the top.  After a few minutes I was joined by Alistair Whitaker, who I had met previously in the Youth Hostel at Bremar. 

He kindly took my photo before moving on. Soon I was joined by Emma Warbrick. I was now feeling much recovered. We chattered, catching up since we had last met. She offered to share her hostel room at Glen Clova, should I want a bed. I was still not sure what my plans were for the night, but was aiming for a meal at the hotel. Following Alistair and Emma for a while, we all stopped for a late lunch at 2pm at the summit of Crow Cragies (920m). Alistair pointed out that it was a Munro Top. Not being a bagger, it felt pretty magnificent to me!

I have little experience of the high Scottish hills, though I often walk in the valleys and passes and I had been up high on a Winter Skills course at Glenmore Lodge. This was the first time I had been on the tops hear-abouts without snow cover. For miles there was a gently rolling surface, with practically no vegetation higher than about 4 inches. Blackened areas of grass suggested where snowdrifts had recently melted away, whilst in some places the snow still lay.

The worrying mist had lifted to some extent, and although not sunny it became brighter. Starting to descend from the plateau I suddenly became very aware of how sore my knees had become. I shouted to Emma telling her to go on, as I was having to slow down, they hurt so much.

I was quite concerned about my knees, as I knew there was a huge descent ahead of me. I had only dropped about 200m and it hadn’t been too steep. I knew it was about to get much steeper. There was no choice. I had to take pain killers, and just get on with it. I took both Ibuprofen (thinking that it would help with the inflammation in my knees) and Co-codamol.

Stumbling on down the path I was on the look-out for the shelter hut that Emma had been talking about when we ate lunch. I found it eventually, just to the side of the track, a few meters beyond a poignant sign commemorating five climbers from the Glasgow Universal Club who died there at New Year in 1959.

The shelter was very low, with a heavy red iron door which shut out all light. I peered inside, knowing that I would never go inside such a cave-like place unless it was indeed to seek shelter to save my life. 

With these gloomy thoughts I struggled on down the path. There is little that can be said about fighting pain. In 2012 I did so day after day as my feet shredded. 

I took the descent slowly, and eventually came to the point where the pitch of the path became more gentle, and the trees in the valley began. Just before the trees was a crossing on a lovely stream. Stopping to top up my water, I decided to rest a while. I made a mug of tea, ate some food – and mercifully slept for a little while. When I awoke, I was feeling much better. I sat a bit longer, gradually coming back to consciousness, and realised that down below me was a little tent. Another Challenger. Then I realised it was Alistair, and he was climbing up to see that I was alright. What a gentleman. After assuring him that all I had needed was a good rest, I set off again. My knees were still hurting, but things were not too bad., but I had about 6 miles to go if I wanted a decent meal tonight!

The contrast between the high hills and Glen Doll then Glen Clova is huge. From barren mountain to lovely forest then pasture in such a short space is staggering. We have so many different environments, so many climates all packed into the tiny space of our islands. Almost every corner brings new worlds to explore.

There is no getting away from the fact that Jock’s Road had pushed me to the extreme, and that by the time I got down to the hotel in Glen Clova I was jiggered! Remembering what Emma had said about sharing her room I went straight to reception and booked in. Could I order a meal? I was five minutes after last orders. Would it be possible to ask the chef very nicely if I could have something to eat? I was SO glad when the receptionist came back with a menu! 

Quickly dumping my rucsac in Emma’s room and changing into my sandals I found my way to the bar and a host of other Challengers including Emma, Jayme Morgan and Peter Molenaar, Steve O’Hara, Heather Elston and Nicole Moraschett. I ate my meal quickly – can’t remember what it was, only that it tasted lovely. Very soon afterwards made my excuses and sloped off to bed, taking more ibuprofen before I turned in. I was feeling very gloomy, wondering if I was going to have to abandon my plan for tomorrow, which was to climb up from Glen Clova Hotel (240m) past Loch Brandy to the summit of Green Hill (870m), then follow the ridge to Muckle Cairn (826m) before descending the steep slope to to Inchgrundle (280m) in Glen Lee, and hence to Tarfside. My foul-weather alternative held no appeal at all. Would I be hurting still in the morning?

Tuesday 20^th May 2014

The plan

OS SHEETS	DISTANCE (km)	ASCENT (m)	OVERNIGHT HALT
44	22km,  13.7 mi	+740m, -770m	Tarfside hostel or camp
From Glen Clova hostel climb to Loch Brandy/Green Hill (347757) and paths to Inchgrundle (411791). Track to Invermark Lodge and local road to Tarfside

A fine morning and restorative night’s sleep led to me deciding to ‘go for it’ with the climbing option for today. An early breakfast and a quick chat with Emma and I was off at about 7.15

The path up was lovely! I was so glad that I had decided to do this route. 

Catching first sight of Loch Brandy was a breath-stopping moment. 

My pictures just do not do it justice. Still waters, mirroring the hills, suddenly appearing from behind a lip of rock. It was a moment to savour and remember for ever. 

There were little puffs of cloud coming in from the east. I wondered if this was coastal haar? As the crow flies I didn’t think I was too far from the sea. (Later looking at the map, I was about 27miles inland). 

Continuing to climb I arrived at the summit cairn on Green Hill and stopped full of energy, but knowing that I needed to eat and drink before I pushed on.

Soon I was joined by Emma, who was doing the first part of today along the same route as me, then heading elsewhere.

I nearly went adrift following a track on the ground when I crossed a stile over a fence. The shape of the ground just didn’t fit the map, and I soon backtracked, heading back onto the ridge. Then I spotted a long set of marker stones peeping up from the turf. 

I had heard tales about how difficult this ridge could be to follow in poor visibility. Over the centuries walkers have marked the way. It was lovely to follow the route, listening to the birds calling, seeing the clouds burning off the hills. Lochegar was visible in the distance. I remembered looking across the valley at the cliffs on Lochnegar last year as I made my way from Gelder Shiel to Spittal of Glenmuick, and could roughly work out where that route must be amongst the hills.

Although most of the snow had gone, there were still occasional pockets to be found. This one was interesting, with a meltwater tunnel boring right through the center.

I met up with Jayme and Peter on the descent, but they were aiming to descend in a different place from me, so we soon parted company. 

I was aiming for a short, steep section down to Inchgrundle. NEVER AGAIN will I walk that route. Although marked as a path it is deep heather on a very steep slope, with no sign of a path until just above Inchgrundle itself. 

Once again my knees took a battering, but this time I had taken the painkillers before I began to descend in earnest. By the time I got down to Loch Lee I was in big bother again, hardly putting one foot in front of another. Remembering the restorative effect of my food/drink/sleep from yesterday I found a nice place to rest up, and made a brew….

After a little nap I pushed on, meeting up with Andy Williams and David Brown (from Baltimore, USA), during my wander down to Tarfside. Andy and I were both tired and sore (I think he said he had blisters) We both thought David was amazing when he decided to climb up to the monument on the Hill of Rowan above Tarfside.

Arriving in Tarfside the Challenge ‘angels’ at St Drostan’s hostel were in full flow, serving dinners to earlier arriving Challengers.

John Donoghue was a knight in shining armour, producing a can of Guinness and a glass. I sat awhile chatting with Russ Manion and others before wending my way to the field and setting up my Trailstar alongside more than 50 other tents.

The end of another very long – but VERY satisfying day. I had succeeded. Braemar to Tarfside via Jock’s Road and Loch Brandy. My muscles and joints were creaking, but my heart sang with achievement.

Wednesday 21^st May 2014

The plan

OS SHEETS	DISTANCE (km)	ASCENT (m)	OVERNIGHT HALT
44/45	26.5km, 16.5 mi	-150m (descent)	Camp at Northwater Bridge, 649663, 01674 840 630
From Tarfside cross footbridge and follow riverside walk to Edzell (resupply) From Edzell follow local roads to camp at Northwater bridge campsite

Waking today I felt very lazy, and had to give myself a big kick up the backside to move. The humidity was so high dew had formed on the grass INSIDE my Trailstar. I had never seen this happen before! It was raining hard, and I just did not want to do anything, so I opened the valve on my Neoair Xlite mattress. It didn’t take long for the cold from the ground to hit me, and I had no choice but to get myself moving. Luckily, by the time I had made breakfast and packed everything up the rain had stopped, and I was able to wipe the Trailstar reasonably dry before striking camp.

I set off wearing my Paramo gear, but soon realised that I had made a big mistake as the day quickly got very warm. I ended up diving into a stand of trees and doing a quick change into my summer trousers. Luckily no-one went past while I was doing so. It is all very well flashing bits of your body about when you are all alone in the hills, but this morning there were so many Challengers about, not to mention all the locals using the road and farmers in the fields, that it felt very dodgy taking clothes off!

I carried on, at times walking with other Challengers. Crossing the river and taking to the path along the bank and fields away from the road was nice. It got steadily hotter. I opened my bag, looking for my hat, then realised that I had not packed it this morning. Puzzled, I backtracked through memories, at last coming to the awful realisation that I had no recollection of it since St Drostans. For a while I was very ‘put out’ by its loss, as that hat has been through many adventures with me, and I was very upset to have lost it. Then I mentioned it to a couple of other Challengers, who had seen a Tilley hat all on its lonesome on the grass by the seats last night. Hope at last! Delving into my bum-bag I dug out my phone, hoping against hope that there would be enough of a signal to ring Challenge Control. Luck was with me. I got through, and left a message, hoping that the ‘angels’ could perform one more miracle, and find my hat, then somehow get it to Challenge Control by the time I was to get there on Thursday.

It was hot. Very hot! I was burning, so I was ever so glad every time there were trees to walk under! Cross with myself, I wondered if there was any possibility of getting hold of some kind of hat, or something to make a head-covering from, in Edzell. Anything would do – even a teatowel!

By the time I got into Edzell I was gagging for a cup of tea, and headed straight for the ‘Tuck in’ easily identified by the row of huge rucsacs outside. I squeezed myself in, ordered a big pot of tea and a bowl of icecream, then stripped off my boots and socks. The luxury of the cool floor was indescribable! I thought I was ordering one scoop of vanilla and one of chocolate, but it had lots of lumpy crunchy bits. I have never had Mars-bar icecream before. Very nice!

Once hydrated and cooled down a quick visit to the shops brought forth treasure. A cap! Delighted, I set off down the farm tracks on the last lap of the day – the dreaded march down to North Water Bridge. Luckily, in Edzell I had seen Russ Manion again, and he had tipped me off to his route, which meant it was possible to keep off the dreaded road for most of the way, only having to do just over a mile on the dreaded deathtrap. 

As it was, I enjoyed the back-tracks, and arrived at the campsite in fine fettle. I was even happier when I managed to borrow a towel from reception, because I knew my own had gone smelly, and I was dying for a shower after the heat of the day.

The evening passed in a blur of Challenger chat, helped along by finishing off the nice wee-dram I had been eking out throughout my journey.

Thursday 22^nd May 2014

The plan

OS SHEETS	DISTANCE (km)	ASCENT (m)	OVERNIGHT HALT
45	13km, 8 miles	+100m,   -120m	Campsite in Montrose 01674 672105
Crossing the A90 take minor roads via North Water Bridge, Mains of Gallery, under railway line at 685649, towards Marykirk  as far as 687653 then climb the hill of Morphie  before descending into Nether Warburton nature reserve near St Cyrus and the sea! After celebration, bus to Montrose.

With mixed feelings I packed up this morning. Part of me was glad that the journey was nearly over and that tomorrow I would return home. Part of me wanted the journey to go on and on and on. In reality, I had become used to this pace of life, to the routine of breakfast, pack, strike, walk all day, pitch, eat, sleep. No responsibilities except to myself. No decisions save those relating to the mundane. Easy really, though physically very demanding. I suppose that is truly what a holiday is all about. Certainly for me it had proved, once again, to be a perfect example of a mental recharge.

The route by road through farmland to the coast has very few highlights. After the heat of yesterday, today was very cold, with a nasty biting windchill. I put on layer upon layer of clothing. Unlike yesterday, when I changed from Paramos into summer trousers, today I ended up putting my Paramos on OVER my summer trousers. 

Strangely, today my feet chose to give me trouble. Perhaps the heat yesterday had left them vulnerable, but I developed a blister on both heels, and got some sort of strange spasm in my feet. Nasty. I started hobbling, as I climbed past the Stone of Morphie then realised what was happening. Time to get my boots off for a while. I stopped near the top of the hill, climbing over a fence to seek shelter from the wind among a plantation of saplings. After a break things improved, and I was off again. 

The North Sea came into view.

After a brief dance amongst the traffic along the A92, I headed under the old viaduct and along the roadway (which seemed to go on and one for miles) to Nether Warburton. 

Just as I arrived it started to rain. 

A brief stop at the ladies toilets and to look at the new stone that has been erected before the big event of the day: toe-dipping.

Mizzle turned into full on rain before I got over the dunes. The tide was out, of course! I was the only person on the beach as I made my way down to the waves. 

A very brief toe-dipping and photos, then I retraced my footprints. Uncomfortable now in the stinging rain, and starting to feel cold I ate my last handful of Jelly Babies and Minstrels to celebrate then started to climb up to St Cyrus. Suddenly tired out, dying to flop and sleep, I knew there should be a café and a bus stop. I reckon that I must have walked the longest way possible around St Cyrus before suddenly I saw the café. Blow the bus stop, I needed TEA. NOW! Stepping out of the rain I was hit by the fug of wet bodies, and with my glasses steaming up I nearly fell over a pile of huge wet rucsacs inside the door. No matter. Welcome. Congratulations all round. We have made it! Add in the lovely lady bringing tea and food….

Feeling much restored I joined others at the bus stop. I had hardly settled in at the shelter when a bus turned up. Brilliant. No waiting getting cold.

On the bus was Maggie Hems. We caught up since our last meeting, parting again as the bus arrived in the square at Montrose. Next stop Challenge Control, another cup of tea and the usual round of signing out  and collecting certificate, badge, T-shirt etc together with the buzz of lots of excited people..

I was delighted to be re-united with my Tilley Hat, so now we can have more adventures together. Many thanks to the Tarfisde ‘angels’. One of my traditions is that having received my finishers T-shirt, I buy nail varnish to match it and paint my nails for the TGO dinner, so a quick trip to Boots followed, as did a quick search for reading materials in the charity shops before tomorrow’s journey.

Shopping done, arriving at the campsite was an anti-climax. Trailstar up, quick nibble to sustain myself till dinner. Spruce myself up, then off to the dinner, where a nice time was had in very pleasant company. I was able to catch up with many people I had seen during the crossing, and a few who I had met in previous years.

Friday 23^rd May 2014

Striking camp for the last time I walked into Montrose, calling into Tescos café to sit again with Challengers whilst having tea and killing a little time. Soon it was time to set off to the station and a final chat before getting on the ‘Challenger Special’ to start the journey home. 

All the anticipation, planning, preparation, training, anxt and hard work were over. All the delights, camaraderie, teamwork and sharing were over. 

For this year.

And in 2015?