It is now nearly a month since I sent off my application for the TGO Challenge 2015. Anticipation abounds. Tension increases. Will I get a place? I have a rough idea about what my route will be - and have talked it through with a number of fellow Challengers at the recent reunion in Crainlarich.
I was a tad disappointed to find that my daily 'fix' looking at the TGO Countdown clock had stopped running - so I am attempting to set a new one going. Here is the link:
Countdown Clock
https://countingdownto.com/countdown-page/show/TGO%20Challenge%202015%7C554bee70%7C1
Monday, 13 October 2014
Thursday, 5 June 2014
TGOC2014: Lindy's Story
The Great Outdoors Challenge
2014
Lindy Griffiths, Challenger no. 121
First impressions of the crossing were that it was fabulous! There were hard bits, of course – and some that were
plain downright nasty – but on the whole it was just about as brilliant as it
could be.
Here is the tale…
Wed 7th & Thursday 8th May 2014
Wednesday was Ron’s Birthday, so
we chose to start the journey north a day early, having an extra night and a
celebratory meal on the east coast of Scotland. On Thursday we pootled across
country dropping supply parcels at Newtonmore Hostel and Cannich Campsite.
Arriving in Dornie was exciting, as it meant the start was so near. After a
nice bar meal I retired for a final faf with my gear.
Friday 9th May 2014
The plan
|
OS
SHEETS
|
DISTANCE
(km)
|
ASCENT
(m)
|
OVERNIGHT
HALT
|
|
33, 25
|
28k, 17.4 miles
|
+540m, (250 descent)
|
Wildcamp
126304
|
|
Road
south of Loch Long to 897278, over bridge to path up River Glennan,easterly
to Carnas-luinie; Glen Elchaig, cross bridge 968278, track eastwards to iron
Lodge. Take path up past waterfall past loch an Droma and down to Loch
Mullardoch. Wildcamp vicinity of ruin at Am Màm 126304.
|
|||
Sign
out was at 9.00am, and after saying my last goodbyes I was finally off up the
track along the south of Loch Long, (which isn’t – it is one of the shortest
lochs I know of!), finally stepping out into the hills along the River Glennan
I really knew I was in the
mountains when the first bealach loomed into sight.
A
brief pause to catch my breath and exchange a few words with other challengers was
followed by a difficult descent to the little community of Camas–luinie. The
whole hillside had been churned up in preparation for tree planting, big holes
scooped out, no path in sight.
This
was followed by a delightful trot up the River Elchaig and Loch Leitreach to
Iron Lodge.
I was beginning to think that
this was going too well when I began the serious climbing up the pass that
would take me over to Loch Mullardoch.
Suffice
to say that I had been warned……
By the time I got down to the loch shore it was
late – about 8.30pm. The path meets the loch at a river. Scoping about, there
was no easy crossing. No alternative – I was in for my first dousing of the
crossing. Boots off, sandals on, trouser legs unzipped and tied up out of the
way, I tentatively stepped into the freezing water. Nasty!
At the end of the
day, crossing that freezing river sapped all my remaining strength, and the realisation that there was a
convenient patch of grass just by me led to an instant decision about where to set up
camp!
Saturday 10th May2014
The plan
|
OS
SHEETS
|
DISTANCE
(km)
|
ASCENT
(m)
|
OVERNIGHT
HALT
|
|
25, 26
|
27km, 16.7
miles
|
+300, -400
|
Campsite,
Cannich
|
|
Follow
north of lochside, diverting up Allt Taige to 180319, continue on lochside to
pick up track at 218316. Follow track to Cannich.
|
|||
I woke at first light. The saying goes "Red sky in the morning, shepherd's warning". Oh boy was that warning right! It soon started to rain, and rain hard.
Breakfast.
Struck camp. Set off at 4.45 am. Rain. Unremitting rain. Boggy lochshore, badly
eroded. Hard going. Cross rivers. Exhausting. Everything that I had been warned
about came to pass, and a bit more! I kept going. What more can I say?
Eventually I got down to the dam
at the bottom of Loch Mullardoch. Relief! Feeling that I had returned to
civilisation (there were cars and people: walkers out for a day in the hills)
I found a little quiet spot and to eat a bite then curled up and (covered by my
storm shelter, because it was still raining) had a little sleep.
Restored once more, I trundled
gently down the valley on the roadway through pretty woodland to Glen Cannich.
Still tired out I sat awhile by the river watching dippers on the stones, eventually returning to trudge
on.
Brief excitement – fire in the treetops! Weird! It had stopped raining by
now, but everything was soaking wet. Why could I see smoke? Getting closer, I
realised that a tree had fallen against a powerline. Every time the wind blew,
the branches were catching fire, crackling and burning up high above me. Then
the wind would drop, and the tree would sway back, the burning would fade away
– thanks to the soggy conditions, no doubt – and the cycle would begin again.
Concerned in case this would lead to a big fire on a drier day – or a power
outage somewhere, I tried my phone – no signal of course. I took a GPS reading
of the location and noted it down. I could report it later.
Getting to the campsite was an
anti-climax. Tired out, I retrieved my supplies parcel, told them about the
‘fire’ so they could phone through for me, then pitched my tent and found a
café that made a decent baked potato with tuna, plus tea and cake. A shower
made me feel a bit more human, but by now it was raining again. Can’t have
everything! Just as I was making preparations to go to bed Lousie Evans and
Laura Liddell turned up. They had had an awful day. The path they had been
intending to take to Tomich had been closed by forestry work, so they had
diverted here to Cannich, adding a good few miles to their journey. Chatting
for a while they told me to look out for Fred Campbell, their walking companion
from earlier, who was heading the same way as me tomorrow.
Sunday 11th May 2014
The plan
|
OS
SHEETS
|
DISTANCE
(km)
|
ASCENT
(m)
|
OVERNIGHT
HALT
|
|
26,
25, 34
|
26k, 16.1
miles
|
+570, -510
|
Wildcamp, rear Torgyle Bridge
|
|
Leave
Cannich SE by road, cross bridge & turn R, minor road to Kerrow and
continue towards Tomich, taking track trending SSW climbing hill and roughly
following powerline, via junction at Loch a’Ghreidlein (322262), turn W the
SWesterly, to Loch na Beinne Baine (293198, southerly to the col between
Beinn Bhàn and Meakk Ruigh Uisdein
(290 177) and down to Torgyle Bridge. Wildcamp.
|
|||
Another early start saw me take
the road to Tomich. It wasn’t raining! I got to the hotel in Tomich in time for
a fine second breakfast. Suitably fortified I began what I know would be a huge
climb up out of the valley. When I did it last Easter the paths had been icy.
Today there was a little mud here and there, but the going was good. Getting up
onto the ridge I joined the ‘Balfour-Beatty Track’ that had been built for the
construction of the Beauly-Denys powerline.
Briefly I walked with David and
Margaret Mitchell and Bob and Marlyn Simpson, stopping to brew up with them at
the side of the trackway, then I pushed on, on my own.
Early in the afternoon I was
feeling very soggy and tired out when I spied a number of earthmoving machines
parked up – and a welfare cabin with its door open. Calling out “Is anybody there?”
a reply came – and a challenger sporting a red buff on his head popped out his
head. This was Fred, Louise and Lorraine’s erstwhile companion. The cabin was a
haven from the rain. Fred had been sorting out his wet gear and taking a rest.
He even had his tent hung up on coat-pegs to dry! The Mitchells and Simpsons
called in briefly but did not stop.
After a brief respite from the worst of the
rain, I set off again between squalls. Looking back a little later I could see
the cabin perched up on the shoulder of the hill in the distance, high above Loch na Beinne Baine.
A pile of rocks, tumbled by the
construction works at a corner on the track just cried out to become a cairn at
the summit of the col between Meall na Doire and its un-named partner. I helped
them a little, moving some interesting shaped pieces together. I always add
rocks to cairns, but this is the first time I have felt the drive to build one.
It is strange, but I felt it was a celebration of my day, high above the world.
After this long day, but still with lots of energy to spare, it was quite
spiritual! I took photos and then set off again.
The descent to Torgyle Bridge
was exciting for me – I have always loved seeing geology exposed by
civil-engineering works.
The cuttings recently hewn on this descent were
amongst the most interesting I have ever seen, with intrusions of granite into
country rock. I wished I had time to spend a whole day here, looking at the
rocks and working out the succession of events, but it was getting late, and
sadly I had to drag myself away.
I had planned to climb up the
other side of Glen Moriston, to camp in a clearing I had identified near the
old Military Road. In the event, seeing the Mitchells and the Simpsons setting
up camp on the banks of the river by Torgyle Bridge, I made a snap decision to
join them for the night. It was a lovely pitch.
Monday 12th May 2014
The plan
|
OS
SHEETS
|
DISTANCE
(km)
|
ASCENT
(m)
|
OVERNIGHT
HALT
|
|
34
|
26k
16.1
miles
|
+630
-390
|
NH
382029
(Height
350m)
|
|
From
Torgyle Bridge (309129). Leave road at 308128 and climb SW with track to
junction 293116, then take Old Military Rd to Allt Phocsichain take Old
Military Rd to Ft Augustus, resupply. A82 south to 371070, turn NE onto minor
Rd then at 373072 onto track, Gen Wade’s Military Rd. Camp at Blackburn Bothy
382 029
|
|||
An early, dry start, saw me
climbing the valley side following the new powerline. Here there was no
trackway, and I was crossing open country. Slow going, very steep, but suddenly
I found the track I was looking for. It seems that the Old Military Road and
the new Balfour-Beatty road are one and the same in many places. I had a lovely
morning walking across moorland and through forest before dropping down to Fort
Augustus. Commanding both the end of Loch Ness and the locks on the Caledonian
Canal this must have been a very important strategic place back in the mists of
time. Today it is full of tourists from all over the world. It has nice loos (where
I washed my feet in a hand-basin!) and a shop that sold everything I needed for
resupply including a nice wee dram….
Finding a seat by the locks I ate my lunch
and was happy to be joined by Oliver, a Challenger I had met on my previous
crossings. Strolling through the village I also bumped into Fred again. It’s funny
how people’s paths keep crossing.
My feet were
sore and tired, and I was actually feeling quite hot and bothered (as the sun
was shining for a change). I took the opportunity, once I got off the road, to
find a quiet spot to rest. Food, drink, boots off, snooze! I know how to get
myself feeling positive again!
Once again Balfour-Beatty were
much in evidence. Work was going on all around me, just over the fence from
where I was resting.
Their trackway roughly parallels the ancient route I was
on. Huge wagons carried tons of rock, pick-up trucks zoomed about, and a
general send of ‘busy-ness’ was in the air. All the new tracks made for some
interesting navigation. I was quite pleased when a guy on a quad bike stopped
to chat. Employed on the local estate, he confirmed I was on the right track
and sent me on my way with a cheery wave. I think he was off feeding grouse.
There seemed to be a number of the pens for raising them as I climbed up out of
the valley towards Blackburn Bothy.
I had looked forward to exploring
the environs of the bothy, as a result of my experiences in 2012, but it
started to rain just as the bothy came into sight. Two tents were pitched up on
the grass outside, but after a peep inside the bothy I knew I was happy to
spend the night under a roof! A quick word with Challenger Kirsten Paterson in
one of the tents warned me of a dead deer in the stream above the bothy, and
gave me guidance about where she had collected water, so off I went. Sure
enough I found the sad corpse, and trotted higher up the Black Burn to collect
my water. By now the rain had turned to a torrent and I was glad to get inside
four walls to sort myself out and make a meal. I was later joined by a very wet
Maggie Hems, also glad to escape the weather. Kirsten popped over form her tent
for a chat, but I didn’t see David Wishart till the next morning.
Tuesday 13th May 2014
The plan
|
OS
SHEETS
|
DISTANCE
(km)
|
ASCENT
(m)
|
OVERNIGHT
HALT
|
|
34, 35
|
20k
12.4
miles
|
+430m
-480m
|
Garva
Bridge
(Height
300m)
|
|
From
Blackburn Bothy follow the military road over the Corrieyairack Pass, halting
at Melgarve Bothy for a break and continuing on to wildcamp near Garva Bridge
(NN524948)
|
|||
David was camped in a Trailstar
similar to my own, so when we chatted in the morning we compared notes on how
we pitch the shelter – and he showed me his brilliant idea: he had the inner
from an old tent as a ‘nest’ to keep out the bugs. Brilliant! I have been
mulling what to do about this, and have been lucky to have avoided any nights
when they are biting so far. The purpose made ‘nests’ although light are
expensive, and I had been thinking about how to make my own. This seemed like a
great compromise, if a suitable inner was available.
In 2012 I had a very difficult
day on the Corrieyairack Pass. Coming in from Invergarry I attempted to cut
across country with a traverse from Aberchalder to Blackburn Bothy on ‘Storm
Sunday’. Because the weather was so bad and the streams were up I ended up
taking a route over the tops and taking a easterly bearing for the pass. I got
embroiled in the early stages of the Balfour-Beaty construction and had a very
unpleasant time before I finally got onto the Old Military Road. One of the
main targets for this year’s Challenge was to follow the pass without the danger
of hurricane force winds, to see where incidents had occurred on that awful
day, and to think about the decisions I had taken at the time. In many ways
this was going to be a day to ‘lay the ghost’ of the day that Scotland had almost killed me.
I enjoyed my early morning tramp, and saw a very unusual beetle scuttling among the stones on the trackway.
Climbing away from Blackburn
Bothy it was some time before I began to recognise the terrain. I had not
realised that my struggle across country in 2012 had taken me so far from the
ideal route, but eventually I realised that this was the point where I had
tried, unsuccessfully, to cross from the new trackway to the Military Road on
Storm Sunday.
Only about 50m separated the two tracks, but I vividly remembered
the fluid peat underfoot, and the sensation that there was no bottom, as I
hauled myself back to the new construction. Today I took lots of photos, seeing
huge dumper trucks slowly grinding their way upwards, carting stone from the
quarry at the bottom of the pass high up into the hills.
In 2012 I had followed the new
trackway from that point to where the construction work ended some way higher
up. Today I was able to identify where I had climbed, taking shelter behind two
huge boulders to rest and eat.
I remember the cold, and the wind battering me,
wishing I could stay in the shelter behind the boulders, but having to move
because the hillside was awash, and I had realised that the water was running
underneath me, as well as over me. From the position of the boulders I was able
to work out where I had eventually made it onto the Old Military Road on that
terrible day.
I remember how I sent out a prayer of relief at that point –
although I still had a big struggle making the summit in that wind, and getting
down the other side to Melgarve Bothy.
Although the climb was hard work
today, it was cathartic to work my way up the Military Road on a pleasant day,
realising that on Storm Sunday I had indeed done the right things in the
conditions, and that I could not have done anything better.
By the time I reached
the summit of the pass I was feeling good. It was, however, really weird seeing
the construction crews working just a few metres away so high up in the hills.
There is something counter-intuitive about seeing trucks driving past when you
know you have just climbed up a huge hill! I paused briefly at the summit for a
snack, waving to the passenger in a pickup truck passing just yards away from
me on the Balfour-Beaty track.
Climbing up the pass I had been
looking at the pylons that had been built, and the ‘pads’ that were being
prepared for other pylons to be erected. Once over the top, dropping below the
snowline once more, I watched crews erecting the giants, thinking what skilled,
and dangerous work it was.
David Wishart caught up with me
on the descent, and we talked about these developments as we walked down to
Melgarve Bothy. Stepping into the bothy I
recognised Sam Hackett from earlier Challenges. We had a lighthearted
lunch-break, and when I was ready I pushed on down to Garva Bridge. There was
quite a collection of tents there already, and I joined in happily, enjoying
being part of the crowd, but also pleased that my crossing of the Corrieyairack
Pass had gone so well, and that now I was feeling good about the place, not
haunted.
Wednesday 14th May 2014
The plan
|
OS
SHEETS
|
DISTANCE
(km)
|
ASCENT
(m)
|
OVERNIGHT
HALT
|
|
35
|
23km, 14.3
miles
|
+120m, -150m
|
Newtonmore
Hostel
|
|
Follow
military road from Garva Bridge to Lagan
(NN615945) then road-walk (A86) to Newtonmore.
|
|||
I made an early start again, taking photos of the frosty tents by the river at Garva Bridge before striking camp and setting off.
 |
| Flooding after the storm in 2012 |
Today was to be a peaceful trundle, all
road walking, no climbing or descent to speak of, on minor roads to Laggan, and
then on to Newtonmore. When I walked through here in 2012 there had
been significant flooding and I had been very curious about the old bridge standing proud of the waters ...
 |
| The same place in 2014 |
... but this year the old 'Wade' bridge stood out from the grass of the field at the side of the new road.
Sitting in the quiet morning I dozed gently for a
while. The exertions of the past few days were catching up with me. Listening
to my body I promised to be ‘gentle’ today.
Just outside Laggan I heard two
grouse squabbling – and took a sequence of photos of the tousle from really
close up. Eventually one of them submitted to the other.
I don’t think they ever knew I was there!
I was really pleased to see work
going on at Laggan stores and a sign in the window saying that the shop would
be re-opening soon. I am still grateful to the previous owner for her kindness
in 2012, when I arrived in Laggan, so exhausted after my crossing of the
Corrieyairack.
Making use of the public toilet
across the road from the shop, once again I enjoyed the wall paintings done by
the local primary school.
Although I have driven the road
from Laggan to Newtonmore it is a far different experience to walk it. There
were a number of notable sights, including the small graveyard tucked under the
trees near Cluny Castle, and a somewhat bizarre red guardsman’s box (complete
with cut-out guardsman) by the road.
Arriving at the hostel in
Newtonmore was a delight. An oasis for Challengers, I was quickly fed cake and
given a mug of tea, then Alli showed me to my room and my precious resupply parcel.
A blur of chatter ensued, meeting, greeting and catching up with everyone else
who was there. I met Emma Warbrick, with whom I was sharing a room. We realised
that we would have to be careful with our jackets, because we both had the same
blue Paramo. A fabulous, (very filling) meal at ‘The Glen’ in the company of
Mike Gillespie, Patrick Deane and Alan MacDonald followed, leaving me realising
that an early night was much needed! Just after I had started getting ready for
bed Louise Evans (of Lousie and Laura from Cannich campsite) turned up – in a
tearing hurry as she wanted to get to the Glen for a meal. Laura Liddell was
somewhere behind her – I was asleep before she materialised.
Tursday 15th May 2014
The plan
|
OS
SHEETS
|
DISTANCE
(km)
|
ASCENT
(m)
|
OVERNIGHT
HALT
|
|
35
|
22km, 13.7
miles
|
+200, -80
|
Camp
at Ruigh aiteachain bothy, 847928
|
|
Take
A86 ENE to Kingussie, junction turn SSE then E on B970, to Drumguish, 789998.
Take path heading SE to 806986 then easterly to 824983. Follow signs to cross
footbridge, then rejoin path marked on the map at 826982 past Corarnstilmore
and into Glen Feshie 848976. Take path south, crossing the river by the
bridge at 850965. NB the
Bridge further S at 846937 is down. Continue on the path up the
valley, past the camping near the bothy at Ruigh-aiteachain
|
|||
Having got my gear ready before
bed last night I was able to creep out of my room at the hostel for an early
breakfast. Fred Campbell was there too, and we chattered as we ate. Various
others surfaced, and before long the kitchen was quite full.
I took a picture,
then headed off towards Kingussie, popping into the Co-op for a block of cheese
and a carrot to nibble on. It was a lovely morning, and I enjoyed the walk up
the cycle path from Newtonmore to Kingussie. I had seen Mike, Patrick and Alan
going into the Co-op as I left, and before long they came steaming past me at a
great rate of knots. Turning down to Ruthven Barracks I headed towards the
Feshie, pausing to chat about the weather and the Challenge with a man in
Tromie Bridge.
Having felt a bit worn out
yesterday, my excellent meal and sleep in a real bed last night seemed to have
filled me full of energy, and I was raring to go. I trotted happily through the
woodland, and was just about to walk into the open again when Sam Hackett and
Richard Bannister caught me up.
I joined them for a snack at the ruin at
Baileguish, before they yomped off again. At a more sedate pace I followed on,
meeting up with two Davids: Wishart and Williams, before stopping for another
snack at the bridge over the Feshie just below Achleum, where I met Jeremy
Prall.
I walked on from here on my own,
marvelling at the lovely views and the new paths and simple bridges that have been built.
I was
having a truly ‘good to be alive’ day, bouncing along the trail in the sun. I
stopped to chat with a pair of lady walkers who were camping at Glenmore and
exploring the region, before pushing on to the bothy at Ruigh-teachain. Since
my last visit there someone has done a lot of hard work tidying up the place.
It was pristine! Even the edges of the turf outside had been neatly trimmed.
The bothy was my target for the
day, but I had arrived there by 2pm. I stopped to have a proper rest and a brew
of tea, but decided to press on and see if I could make it up to the ‘Pony Hut’
where I had pitched last year. Then I had walked up from Kingussie. Today I had
come up from Newtonmore. Could I extend my day by that much? I knew I was
fitter than last year, but last year I had arrived at the hut shattered. Could
I do it? I knew there were a few other pitches I could use if I had to stop
sooner.
While I was brewing up two other
walkers surfaced. They were using the bothy to explore the local peaks, and had
been there for a few days. We chatted for a while, then I set off again, still
full of wonder at this fabulous valley.
I was a bit nervous about the
sections of the path which last year had crossed recent rock falls. Happily,
work had been done on them, and although they were a bit ‘airy’ still, there
was no reason to worry.
As I climbed I paused to chat
with Mike, Patrick and Alan who had made camp in a nice clearing beside the
river, before climbing on into the evening.
By now it was cooling off, and
quite a stiff wind was blowing, luckily into my back.
Finally the ‘Pony Hut’
appeared, with just one little green tent in residence. 12 hours on the go
today (with quite a few ‘snacks’!) Ian Sinclair showed me how he had located
his stove in the lee of the hut to cook his meal, and kindly joined me to chat
whilst I made my meal there too. By the time I had eaten it was too cold to
linger outside any longer, so I bade good night and turned in.
FRI 16th
The plan
|
OS
SHEETS
|
DISTANCE
(km)
|
ASCENT
(m)
|
OVERNIGHT
HALT
|
|
43
|
23k, 14.3
miles
|
+250, -200
|
Camp
by White Bridge
|
|
From
Ruigh-aiteachain continue up Glen
Feshie, passing the shieling & waterfalls at 908885. Continue on path in
easterly direction then descend along the path along Geldie Burn and to White
Bridge.
|
|||
Once again I was up very early,
and set off at about 6.30am. The wind was much stronger today, but it looked as
if it would stay fine. A brief removal of my jacket was soon reversed as I
negotiated the Eidart Bridge over the waterfall.
I found it quite ‘spooky’
there last year – and as I approached again this year I felt uneasy again. I
can’t explain this. There are lots of rather dubious bridges to cross on the
Challenge – but this is the only one to affect me in this way. I wonder if
something odd has happened there at some point in the past, and I am feeling
some ‘vibrations’ from it?
I met another camper soon after
the bridge – thinking he was a Challenger I stopped to chat, but no, he was another
lone walker, who in this case was heading westward, not east.
I was quite cross to note how
much the path had been chewed up by mountain bikes – and was passed by a number
of folk on said contrivances who were off to bag various mountains. The boggy
conditions could have been worse, but I did not enjoy this section, although
the views were lovely.
Hitting the track near Geldie Lodge the going improved,
and I set off at a faster rate, feeling like I was now on ground I knew well as
I approached the crossing of the Geldie at the ruin.
After a brief snack
(during which Ian caught me up) we were just about to set off again when we saw
two walkers crossing the Geldie burn. One got over – but the other was in
trouble. Thinking they were Challengers we went to see if we could help. It was
a young man and his uncle, who were off to walk up the Lairig Ghru. The uncle
was having trouble (no sticks, big pack, trying to cross barefoot). Eventually
we saw him sit down on the far side to put his boots on. The young man assured
us that they would be alright, so we set off for White Bridge.
Arriving at White Bridge at about
11.30, I was again well ahead of schedule. I paused for an early lunch,
complete with a proper brew of tea. I was in two minds. Should I walk down to
Mar Lodge and stay the night, or should I push on to Braemar, and stop an extra
night there. (My plans were to arrive in Braemar late on Saturday, then to take
a rest day on Sunday. My husband Ron was coming up on Saturday to join me at
the Youth Hostel for the weekend, bringing supplies I needed.) Musing, over tea,
Mike, Patrick and Alan passed by. Ian set off soon after them, as he had a
B&B booked in Braemar for that night. I lolled about for a while, before
realising that I would probably get bored spending an extra day in Braemar, but
as I had never done more than call in for a cup of tea at Mar Lodge, I would
camp there tonight so I could explore it a bit more. I tidied up after myself
and set off once again.
The walk down the valley from
White Bridge is one I have done many times. Today I trotted down the track, noticing how many trees had been broken or
uprooted by the storms over the winter, and stopped to talk with other walkers
out and about in the valley. I was glad when the trees around Linn of Dee came
into view.
My tradition is to paddle in the
waters at the Linn of Dee. The swirl holes fascinate me. Every time I visit I
see something new. Having my traditional break I talked with a group of
Canadian women who had done some long distance walking at home. They were
curious about the TGO Challenge, so I told them how to find the website.
Perhaps they might join us as Challengers in the future?
I am not sure if it was because I
was ahead of schedule, or if it was just that I had gone into some sort of
‘overdrive’ but I was feeling very strong today, and bounced along the path by
the river, full of the joys of spring! Climbing up to the road near the car
park I bumped into Frank Davis and his daughter Rhoda, who were also heading to
Mar Lodge. They continued along the road while I went to sample the delights of
the composting toilets in the car park…
The sign pointing Challengers down to Mar Lodge lifted my spirits, with a promise of tea for Challengers.
Walking down the hill I once again marvelled at the impact of landscaping after the wildness of the hills.
Arriving at about 3pm, the Gun
Room at Mar Lodge was once again a lovely place to sit, drink tea and chat with
like-minded souls. After a brief respite I made arrangements to camp, then went
to find a pitch on their beautifully manicured lawn.
The delights continued. We
could use ‘the facilities’ in the ‘Base Camp’ – which turned out to be toilets,
showers, a kitchen and a sitting room – just like in a youth hostel. Luxury! It
has to be said that I made use of the facilities to the full! One thing I
really miss when I am camping is being able to sit on a proper chair, so
escaping from the ground for a few hours was lovely. Added into that was the
opportunity to meet other Challengers, some of whom were staying in the rooms
at Base Camp. Amongst some who I met there were Margaret and Bernard Fowkes and
Margaret Brown.
I had decided not to go to the
‘dinner’ that evening, as I was carrying food for tonight’s meal. It seemed
silly to carry it all the way from Newtonmore and not eat it. After what turned
out to be my shortest day so far (about eight and a half hours of walking
interspersed with lots of excuses for stops) I turned in early again, and
didn’t notice anyone coming back to their tents from the dinner.
Saturday 17th May 2014
The plan
|
OS
SHEETS
|
DISTANCE
(km)
|
ASCENT
(m)
|
OVERNIGHT
HALT
|
|
43
|
16k, 10
miles
|
+40m -100m
|
SYHA
Braemar
01339
741 659
|
|
Continue
down valley through Linn of Dee and Mar Lodge, then to Braemar.
NB
Extra climb and descent of 100m if
path via viewpoint at Tomintoul is taken to avoid the last bit of road into
Braemar
|
|||
I was lazy this morning, rolled
over and went back to sleep, finally surfacing at about 8.00. After breakfast,
a shower and striking camp it was about 9.30 – so I went and had a tea at the
gun room again! I knew Ron wouldn’t be in Braemar till much later today, and
couldn’t stir my stumps!
The stroll from Mar Lodge down to Braemar over the Dee via the lovely old iron 'Victoria Bridge' only took me till late morning.
Moments after getting into the village I bumped into Chris and Sue
Marshall, who I had met in 2013 on a horrible day in the Monadliaths. We caught
up on our crossings so far this year, then I trundled up to the Youth Hostel to
leave my bag there. The warden kindly let me have the key for our room, so,
unencumbered by my pack and boots, I trotted off down into the village to do a
little shopping and to get something to eat.
On the way I stopped to take a picture of a lovely old car. I bought some bits and pieces in Mountain Sports. A brief stroll around the village, bumping into more old friends from previous crossings and suddenly my body went into 'shut-down'mode. I was drawn by some irresistible force to 'The Bakery', which was heaving with Challengers and which had some very interesting 'Challenge Specials' on the menu. It was my duty to test them out! I
was still there when Ron arrived in Braemar with all the goodies I needed for resupply.
Sunday 18th May 2014 –
Rest Day, Braemar
Sleeping. Eating. A run in the
car up to Linn of Dee with Ron. More sleeping. Chatting with Challengers.
Cleaning gear. Mending things. Sleeping. Eating. Packing for tomorrow.
Monday 19th May 2014
The plan
|
OS
SHEETS
|
DISTANCE
(km)
|
ASCENT
(m)
|
OVERNIGHT
HALT
|
|
43/44
|
28k, 17.4mi
|
+560m, -690m
|
Glen Clova hostel or camp nearby
|
|
A93
south to Auchallater (156882) then track up Glen Callater to Jock’s Road.
Descend into Glen Doll and on to Glen Clova Hotel/hostel
|
|||
An early start again: I left the
hostel at 6.45. The walk up the road to Auchallater was unremarkable. I was
happy to get back onto tracks again. It was a lovely morning for walking,
climbing gently to Lochcallater Lodge.
I knew many Challengers had come up here
the previous night, and have heard many tales about the hospitality of this place,
but I was not expecting to be welcomed with a cup of tea and a bacon butty!
What a treat! After meeting Bill (I didn’t catch his second name) who seemed to
be in charge of proceedings, I set off again, heading up the loch.
Last time I
was here I found the biggest dog paw-prints I have ever seen. I was a tad nervous
in case their owner should be in the locality today – but didn’t see any dogs
at all once I left the Lodge, thank goodness. Getting to the top of the loch I
was passed by Steve O’Hara and Heather Elston, who were climbing very fast in
comparison to my tortoise speed.
To walk the famous ‘Jock’s Road’
has been my ambition for many years. There is some interesting information
about it to be found about it on http://www.heritagepaths.co.uk/ .
In the 1880s a new landowner tried to stop access to this route. Action
was taken in the courts, going as far as the House of Lords, with a decision
being taken that that the historic route should remain a right of way. The name
‘Jock’s Road’ comes from John Winter (Jock) who was one of those to testify in
this legal battle.
It had been an important drove route for sheep and cattle from Braemar
to Cullow near Kirriemuir, despite rising so high that for many months of the
year it is impassable. Markets were held a couple of days apart to give the
drovers enough time to transport the animals left from the first market to the
second. Cattle thieves and whisky smugglers are also thought to have used
Jock’s Road. In 1745 it was used by about 700 Highlanders on their way to fight
at Culloden, and by refugees who fled to Glen Clova and Glen Esk after the
battle.
I knew that it was going to be a really big
day for me. My habit is to walk valleys and moors, and not often to climb
mountains. All winter I had been training with this day in mind. Ahead of me
was the big climb. Could I make it? I set off, determined to tackle it bit by
bit. The path itself disappeared, and I found myself climbing the hillside,
checking my GPS from time to time. Worryingly, misty cloud had appeared and the
temperature had fallen. The last thing I wanted on a climb like this was for
the weather to break. I climbed on.
Surprisingly, there were lots of
flowers, particularly a white star-like flower that I did not know the name of.
I took photos, deciding that I would find out its name when I got home. (My
researches surprisingly show the only plant with flowers and leaves to match
this photo is the Wood Anemone. Is this a remnant of the ancient forest I
wonder?)
Then I saw a frog hopping away from me. Another photo opportunity!
Gently I climbed. It wasn’t as bad as I had expected.
The terrain was mainly
grassy underfoot ...
... the going reasonably easy, though very steep. The climb just
went on, and on, and on. Would I ever get to the top!
Suddenly I went over a sort of
‘lip’ in the hillside, and the angle became much more gentle. Stopping for a
breather I saw someone climbing up from below. They were going much faster than I
had climbed. I took a breather, thinking it would be nice to have some company for a little while, feeling exultant at reaching what was obviously
nearly the top. After a few minutes I
was joined by Alistair Whitaker, who I had met previously in the Youth Hostel
at Bremar.
He kindly took my photo before moving on. Soon I was joined by Emma Warbrick. I was now feeling much recovered. We chattered, catching up since we had last met. She offered to share her
hostel room at Glen Clova, should I want a bed. I was still not sure what my
plans were for the night, but was aiming for a meal at the hotel. Following Alistair and Emma for a while, we all stopped for a late lunch at 2pm at the summit of Crow Cragies (920m). Alistair pointed out that it was a
Munro Top. Not being a
bagger, it felt pretty magnificent to me!
I have little experience of the
high Scottish hills, though I often walk in the valleys and passes and I had been up high on a Winter Skills course at Glenmore Lodge. This was the first time I had been on the tops hear-abouts without snow cover. For
miles there was a gently rolling surface, with practically no vegetation higher
than about 4 inches. Blackened areas of grass suggested where snowdrifts had
recently melted away, whilst in some places the snow still lay.
The worrying mist had lifted to some extent, and although not sunny it became brighter. Starting to descend from the plateau I suddenly became very aware of how sore my knees had become. I shouted to Emma telling her to go on, as I was having to slow down, they hurt so much.
I was quite concerned about my knees, as I knew there was a huge descent ahead of me. I had only dropped about 200m and it hadn’t been too steep. I knew it was about to get much steeper. There was no choice. I had to take pain killers, and just get on with it. I took both Ibuprofen (thinking that it would help with the inflammation in my knees) and Co-codamol.
Stumbling on down the path I was on the look-out for the shelter hut that Emma had been talking about when we ate lunch. I found it eventually, just to the side of the track, a few meters beyond a poignant sign commemorating five climbers from the Glasgow Universal Club who died there at New Year in 1959.
The shelter was very low, with a heavy
red iron door which shut out all light. I peered inside, knowing that I would
never go inside such a cave-like place unless it was indeed to seek shelter to
save my life.
With these gloomy thoughts I
struggled on down the path. There is little that can be said about fighting
pain. In 2012 I did so day after day as my feet shredded.
I took the descent
slowly, and eventually came to the point where the pitch of the path became
more gentle, and the trees in the valley began. Just before the trees was a
crossing on a lovely stream. Stopping to top up my water, I decided to rest a
while. I made a mug of tea, ate some food – and mercifully slept for a little
while. When I awoke, I was feeling much better. I sat a bit longer, gradually
coming back to consciousness, and realised that down below me was a little
tent. Another Challenger. Then I realised it was Alistair, and he was climbing
up to see that I was alright. What a gentleman. After assuring him that all I
had needed was a good rest, I set off again. My knees were still hurting, but
things were not too bad., but I had about 6 miles to go if I wanted a decent
meal tonight!
The contrast between the high
hills and Glen Doll then Glen Clova is huge. From barren mountain to lovely forest then pasture in such a short space is staggering. We have so many
different environments, so many climates all packed into the tiny space of our
islands. Almost every corner brings new worlds to explore.
There is no getting away from the
fact that Jock’s Road had pushed me to the extreme, and that by the time I got
down to the hotel in Glen Clova I was jiggered! Remembering what Emma had said
about sharing her room I went straight to reception and booked in. Could I
order a meal? I was five minutes after last orders. Would it be possible to ask
the chef very nicely if I could have something to eat? I was SO glad when the
receptionist came back with a menu!
Quickly dumping my rucsac in Emma’s room
and changing into my sandals I found my way to the bar and a host of other
Challengers including Emma, Jayme Morgan and Peter Molenaar, Steve O’Hara,
Heather Elston and Nicole Moraschett. I ate my meal quickly – can’t remember
what it was, only that it tasted lovely. Very soon afterwards made my excuses
and sloped off to bed, taking more ibuprofen before I turned in. I was feeling
very gloomy, wondering if I was going to have to abandon my plan for tomorrow,
which was to climb up from Glen Clova Hotel (240m) past Loch Brandy to the
summit of Green Hill (870m), then follow the ridge to Muckle Cairn (826m)
before descending the steep slope to to Inchgrundle (280m) in Glen Lee, and
hence to Tarfside. My foul-weather alternative held no appeal at all. Would I
be hurting still in the morning?
Tuesday 20th May 2014
The plan
|
OS
SHEETS
|
DISTANCE
(km)
|
ASCENT
(m)
|
OVERNIGHT
HALT
|
|
44
|
22km, 13.7 mi
|
+740m, -770m
|
Tarfside hostel or camp
|
|
From
Glen Clova hostel climb to Loch Brandy/Green Hill (347757) and paths to
Inchgrundle (411791). Track to Invermark Lodge and local road to Tarfside
|
|||
A fine morning and restorative
night’s sleep led to me deciding to ‘go for it’ with the climbing option for
today. An early breakfast and a quick chat with Emma and I was off at about
7.15
Catching first sight of Loch Brandy was a breath-stopping moment.
My
pictures just do not do it justice. Still waters, mirroring the hills, suddenly
appearing from behind a lip of rock. It was a moment to savour and remember for
ever.
There were little puffs of cloud coming in from the east. I wondered if
this was coastal haar? As the crow flies I didn’t think I was too far from the
sea. (Later looking at the map, I was about 27miles inland).
Continuing to
climb I arrived at the summit cairn on Green Hill and stopped full of energy,
but knowing that I needed to eat and drink before I pushed on.
Soon I was
joined by Emma, who was doing the first part of today along the same route as
me, then heading elsewhere.
I nearly went adrift following a
track on the ground when I crossed a stile over a fence. The shape of the
ground just didn’t fit the map, and I soon backtracked, heading back onto the
ridge. Then I spotted a long set of marker stones peeping up from the turf.
I
had heard tales about how difficult this ridge could be to follow in poor
visibility. Over the centuries walkers have marked the way. It was lovely to
follow the route, listening to the birds calling, seeing the clouds burning off
the hills. Lochegar was visible in the distance. I remembered looking across
the valley at the cliffs on Lochnegar last year as I made my way from Gelder
Shiel to Spittal of Glenmuick, and could roughly work out where that route must
be amongst the hills.
Although most of the snow had gone, there were still occasional pockets to be found. This one was interesting, with a meltwater tunnel boring right through the center.
I met up with Jayme and Peter on
the descent, but they were aiming to descend in a different place from me, so
we soon parted company.
I was aiming for a short, steep section down to
Inchgrundle. NEVER AGAIN will I walk that route. Although marked as a path it
is deep heather on a very steep slope, with no sign of a path until just above
Inchgrundle itself.
Once again my knees took a battering, but this time I had
taken the painkillers before I began to descend in earnest. By the time I got
down to Loch Lee I was in big bother again, hardly putting one foot in front of
another. Remembering the restorative effect of my food/drink/sleep from
yesterday I found a nice place to rest up, and made a brew….
After a little nap I pushed on,
meeting up with Andy Williams and David Brown (from Baltimore, USA), during my
wander down to Tarfside. Andy and I were both tired and sore (I think he said
he had blisters) We both thought David was amazing when he decided to climb up
to the monument on the Hill of Rowan above Tarfside.
Arriving in Tarfside the
Challenge ‘angels’ at St Drostan’s hostel were in full flow, serving dinners to
earlier arriving Challengers.
John Donoghue was a knight in shining armour,
producing a can of Guinness and a glass. I sat awhile chatting with Russ Manion
and others before wending my way to the field and setting up my Trailstar
alongside more than 50 other tents.
The end of another very long – but VERY
satisfying day. I had succeeded. Braemar to Tarfside via Jock’s Road and Loch
Brandy. My muscles and joints were creaking, but my heart sang with
achievement.
Wednesday 21st May
2014
The plan
|
OS
SHEETS
|
DISTANCE
(km)
|
ASCENT
(m)
|
OVERNIGHT
HALT
|
|
44/45
|
26.5km, 16.5 mi
|
-150m (descent)
|
Camp at Northwater
Bridge, 649663,
01674 840 630
|
|
From Tarfside cross footbridge and follow
riverside walk to Edzell (resupply) From Edzell follow local roads to camp
at Northwater bridge campsite
|
|||
Waking today I felt very lazy,
and had to give myself a big kick up the backside to move. The humidity was so high dew had formed on the grass INSIDE my Trailstar. I had never seen this happen before! It was raining hard,
and I just did not want to do anything, so I opened the valve on my Neoair
Xlite mattress. It didn’t take long for the cold from the ground to hit me, and
I had no choice but to get myself moving. Luckily, by the time I had made
breakfast and packed everything up the rain had stopped, and I was able to wipe
the Trailstar reasonably dry before striking camp.
I set off wearing my Paramo gear,
but soon realised that I had made a big mistake as the day quickly got very
warm. I ended up diving into a stand of trees and doing a quick change into my
summer trousers. Luckily no-one went past while I was doing so. It is all very
well flashing bits of your body about when you are all alone in the hills, but
this morning there were so many Challengers about, not to mention all the locals
using the road and farmers in the fields, that it felt very dodgy taking
clothes off!
I carried on, at times walking
with other Challengers. Crossing the river and taking to the path along the bank and fields away from the road was nice. It got steadily hotter. I opened my bag, looking for my hat,
then realised that I had not packed it this morning. Puzzled, I backtracked
through memories, at last coming to the awful realisation that I had no
recollection of it since St Drostans. For a while I was very ‘put out’ by its
loss, as that hat has been through many adventures with me, and I was very
upset to have lost it. Then I mentioned it to a couple of other Challengers,
who had seen a Tilley hat all on its lonesome on the grass by the seats last
night. Hope at last! Delving into my bum-bag I dug out my phone, hoping against
hope that there would be enough of a signal to ring Challenge Control. Luck was
with me. I got through, and left a message, hoping that the ‘angels’ could
perform one more miracle, and find my hat, then somehow get it to Challenge
Control by the time I was to get there on Thursday.
It was hot. Very hot! I was
burning, so I was ever so glad every time there were trees to walk under! Cross
with myself, I wondered if there was any possibility of getting hold of some
kind of hat, or something to make a head-covering from, in Edzell. Anything
would do – even a teatowel!
By the time I got into Edzell I
was gagging for a cup of tea, and headed straight for the ‘Tuck in’ easily identified by the row of huge rucsacs outside. I squeezed myself in, ordered a big pot of tea and a bowl of icecream, then stripped off my boots and socks. The luxury of the cool floor was indescribable! I thought I was ordering one
scoop of vanilla and one of chocolate, but it had lots of lumpy crunchy bits. I
have never had Mars-bar icecream before. Very nice!
Once hydrated and cooled down a
quick visit to the shops brought forth treasure. A cap! Delighted, I set off
down the farm tracks on the last lap of the day – the dreaded march down to
North Water Bridge. Luckily, in Edzell I had seen Russ Manion again, and he had
tipped me off to his route, which meant it was possible to keep off the dreaded
road for most of the way, only having to do just over a mile on the dreaded
deathtrap.
As it was, I enjoyed the back-tracks, and arrived at the campsite in
fine fettle. I was even happier when I managed to borrow a towel from
reception, because I knew my own had gone smelly, and I was dying for a shower
after the heat of the day.
The evening passed in a blur of
Challenger chat, helped along by finishing off the nice wee-dram I had been
eking out throughout my journey.
Thursday 22nd May 2014
The plan
|
OS
SHEETS
|
DISTANCE
(km)
|
ASCENT
(m)
|
OVERNIGHT
HALT
|
|
45
|
13km, 8
miles
|
+100m, -120m
|
Campsite
in Montrose
01674 672105
|
|
Crossing
the A90 take minor roads via North Water Bridge, Mains of Gallery, under
railway line at 685649, towards Marykirk
as far as 687653 then climb the hill of Morphie before descending into Nether Warburton
nature reserve near St Cyrus and the sea! After celebration, bus to Montrose.
|
|||
With mixed feelings I packed up
this morning. Part of me was glad that the journey was nearly over and that
tomorrow I would return home. Part of me wanted the journey to go on and on and
on. In reality, I had become used to this pace of life, to the routine of
breakfast, pack, strike, walk all day, pitch, eat, sleep. No responsibilities
except to myself. No decisions save those relating to the mundane. Easy really,
though physically very demanding. I suppose that is truly what a holiday is all
about. Certainly for me it had proved, once again, to be a perfect example of a
mental recharge. 
The route by road through farmland to the
coast has very few highlights. After the heat of yesterday, today was very
cold, with a nasty biting windchill. I put on layer upon layer of clothing.
Unlike yesterday, when I changed from Paramos into summer trousers, today I
ended up putting my Paramos on OVER my summer trousers.
Strangely, today my
feet chose to give me trouble. Perhaps the heat yesterday had left them
vulnerable, but I developed a blister on both heels, and got some sort of
strange spasm in my feet. Nasty. I started hobbling, as I climbed past the
Stone of Morphie then realised what was happening. Time to get my boots off for
a while. I stopped near the top of the hill, climbing over a fence to seek
shelter from the wind among a plantation of saplings. After a break things
improved, and I was off again.
The North Sea came into view.
After a brief dance amongst the
traffic along the A92, I headed under the old viaduct and along the roadway (which seemed to go on and one for miles) to
Nether Warburton.
Just as I arrived it started to rain.
A brief stop at the ladies toilets and to look at the new stone that has been erected before the big event of the day: toe-dipping.
Mizzle turned into full
on rain before I got over the dunes. The tide was out, of course! I was the
only person on the beach as I made my way down to the waves.
A very brief
toe-dipping and photos, then I retraced my footprints. Uncomfortable now in the stinging rain, and starting to feel cold I ate my last handful of Jelly Babies and Minstrels to celebrate then started to climb up to St Cyrus. Suddenly tired out, dying to flop and sleep, I
knew there should be a café and a bus stop. I reckon that I must have walked
the longest way possible around St Cyrus before suddenly I saw the café. Blow
the bus stop, I needed TEA. NOW! Stepping out of the rain I was hit by the fug
of wet bodies, and with my glasses steaming up I nearly fell over a pile of huge
wet rucsacs inside the door. No matter. Welcome. Congratulations all round. We
have made it! Add in the lovely lady bringing tea and food….
Feeling much restored I joined
others at the bus stop. I had hardly settled in at the shelter when a bus
turned up. Brilliant. No waiting getting cold.
On the bus was Maggie Hems. We
caught up since our last meeting, parting again as the bus arrived in the
square at Montrose. Next stop Challenge Control, another cup of tea and the usual round of signing out and collecting certificate, badge, T-shirt etc together with the buzz of lots of excited people..
I was delighted to be re-united
with my Tilley Hat, so now we can have more adventures together. Many thanks to
the Tarfisde ‘angels’. One of my traditions is that having received my
finishers T-shirt, I buy nail varnish to match it and paint my nails for the
TGO dinner, so a quick trip to Boots followed, as did a quick search for
reading materials in the charity shops before tomorrow’s journey.
Shopping done, arriving at the
campsite was an anti-climax. Trailstar up, quick nibble to sustain myself till
dinner. Spruce myself up, then off to the dinner, where a nice time was had in
very pleasant company. I was able to catch up with many people I had seen
during the crossing, and a few who I had met in previous years.
Friday 23rd May 2014
Striking camp for the last time I
walked into Montrose, calling into Tescos café to sit again with Challengers
whilst having tea and killing a little time. Soon it was time to set off to the
station and a final chat before getting on the ‘Challenger Special’ to start
the journey home.
All the anticipation, planning,
preparation, training, anxt and hard work were over. All the delights,
camaraderie, teamwork and sharing were over.
For this year.
And in 2015?
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