tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38556019484001207592024-03-13T15:31:55.030-07:00A trundle in the hills...Share my stories and pictures as I explore the great outdoorsLindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17936841596623221054noreply@blogger.comBlogger16125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3855601948400120759.post-88450663669017616752020-11-19T04:31:00.001-08:002020-11-19T04:31:48.034-08:00(Mis)adventures in the hills<p><b style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;"><span style="line-height: 107%;">I am lucky to be alive.</span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><i>It was raining heavily after two
fine days on an eight-day backpacking trek in the Highlands of Scotland. 10:30am
saw me carefully descending the steeply incised, twisting track down the old
drove road in Allt an Tomain Odhair between Glenelg and Kinloch Hourn. At the
ford at grid ref NG906105 I was swept violently off my feet by a tributary of
the main river. <o:p></o:p></i></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><i>I had to let go my pack with all my gear and lost
everything except what I was wearing. Luckily much of that was my trusty Paramo
gear: Cascada trousers, Velez Adventure Light jacket and waterproof storm cap.
I firmly believe that this stalwart, effective gear played a big part in my
survival on that day. <o:p></o:p></i></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><i>This is the story of that
trip, the risk assessments I made, the decisions I took and the struggles I
made to get back to safety.</i><b><o:p></o:p></b></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt;"><b></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xT6STWjRB2k/X7ZV7kS9KtI/AAAAAAAABZc/p1mS6O6P9wkhMGyXamppc3ukRI9XajCYACLcBGAsYHQ/s342/1%2BMisadventures.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="255" data-original-width="342" height="477" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xT6STWjRB2k/X7ZV7kS9KtI/AAAAAAAABZc/p1mS6O6P9wkhMGyXamppc3ukRI9XajCYACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h477/1%2BMisadventures.png" title="The site of my misadventures" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: xx-small;">The site of the misadventures. Thank you to MemoryMaps</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">In May 2020 I was due to take part in the annual crossing of
Scotland from the west coast to the east coast known as The Great Outdoors
Challenge (TGOC20) which would have taken me just short of a fortnight. Because
of the Covid-19 (C19) pandemic this had been cancelled. Other than odd day
walks, I had not been able to have a ‘proper’ backpack in the hills. Having
been stood down by work for 6 months, with no prospect of an end, cabin fever
had set in. Come September I decided that when the midge season was over, I
would take just over a week to walk the first sections of my TGOC20 route so I
upped my training and made preparations for a mid-October trip. With increasing
cases of C19 across the country, I knew that I needed to get out into the hills
soon if I was going to have the break that I needed so badly before we got
locked down again.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Starting from Shiel Bridge I had a glorious first couple of
days, walking to the coast at Glenelg, then easterly up Gleann Beag, picking up the
south easterly ‘powerline path’ heading towards Kinloch Hourn. This was
what I had dreamed about all year. I took photos, dawdled to look at
interesting archaeology and fascinating rocks. I listened to the stags roaring
and searched the hillsides to find them with my little monocular. I didn’t mind
that I had got a bit behind my planned schedule – I had all of next week to
catch up. I was where I wanted to be, high in the hills. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">On my second night, I had settled into the routine of
walking and leave-no-trace wild-camping, so I slept really well, pitched high
on the hills not far from a tiny stream.
Overnight, while I slept heavily, a storm blew in. On Monday morning I woke (about an hour
later than I had planned) to the tumultuous sounds of high winds and heavy rain.
Not overly concerned, although disappointed not to have a fine day like the
previous two, I breakfasted, struck camp and set off on my way, following the
powerline path downhill.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Although the weather had deteriorated considerably, I was
wearing my Paramo wet-weather gear, so I wasn’t unduly concerned. It was very
wet underfoot, and lots of small streams had become fast flowing torrents. As I
looked around, I could see white ribbons of water cascading down the hills
around me. I knew I had rivers to cross
in the next stretch and began to get apprehensive about the conditions I would
meet. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">As I dropped down into the glen of the Allt an Tomain Odhair
I was more sheltered among the trees. The track, although loose underfoot, was
obviously travelled frequently and bore the signs of off-road vehicles. It
twisted and dropped savagely into a narrow incision. Hemmed in, I rounded a
corner and was met by fast flowing water at a ford. I stopped and took a good
look. The track continued quite clearly on the far side. Not good. <b>Crossing
water courses is the most dangerous thing we do as hillwalkers.</b> I climbed back
up the hill a bit to find a spot where it was flat enough to drop my rucksack and
sit on it while I carefully considered all my alternatives.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I could wait for the water level to drop. Could I climb back
up the hill to a point where I could find somewhere to pitch my tent for
shelter? Undoubtably. I had food for another day. However, as I thought about
doing this, I realised it was a non-starter. With foul weather set in, and
looking to continue for some time ahead, I could be stuck there for days. With
the current amount of water sloshing down from the skies, the rivers were going
to continue to rise for some time, not fall. Even if I stretched out my food, I
was due to spend a night at the hostel in Invergarry tomorrow. There was no
phone signal. I could not let the hostel know about my delay. I did not want to
be the cause of an emergency alert.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Before my trip I had spent a lot of time researching my route.
I knew this could be a difficult area, and that any walk in another direction such
as west to Arnisdale would take me across other waterways, which could be in an
even worse condition than this one. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The glen I had just descended was very steep, with the sinuous
track snaking downhill. The problematic stream was cutting in on the left, perpendicular to my track. Looking upstream all I could see was even steeper ground, with two sets of waterfalls
marked on the map. Climbing upstream to find a better crossing place did not
look like an option for a crossing. To the right was the junction with a raging river. It looked like the 'ford' was the best of a difficult bunch.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I thought about making my way back to Glenelg. Could I make it
in time to ring the hostel? I could then let them know I was OK but not going
to arrive? Considering the state of <u>this</u> ford, I thought there were
others on the route back (which I had hopped over easily in the dry weather of
the last couple of days on my way to this point) which would now be impassable. So, going back looked like a non-starter too.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">What about making a crossing? The line of the ford was
obvious. Because it was part of a track that vehicles regularly used, it
looked, from what I could see, that it was fairly level under the water,
comprising fairly small stones in the main. There was a fair proportion of the
water which was clear enough to allow me to see the bottom, though some of it
was breaking further over. Although it was too wide to jump, it was not a wide
crossing. The exit looked straightforward, with the track leading directly out
of the water. I had made some tough crossings before, through deeper and wider
torrents. I was confident of the safety steps to take. I would take off my
Altberg boots (which were still dry) changing into mountain sandals to protect
my feet. I had my trusty poles. I would cross facing up-stream, moving sideways
one foot or pole at a time.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I took a lot of time weighing up the risks but, in the end,
felt that I had no alternative but to cross the ford and continue on my way. I
dug my sandals out of the stretchy pocket on my Mariposa pack, then sat back down on it
and stripped off my boots and socks. I stashed my socks, storm cap, mitts and
overmitts in the ‘kangaroo pouch’ pocket of my jacket. I tied the laces of my
boots together. Finally, I undid the long zips down the outside of my trouser legs,
wrapped them round my legs and tucked the bottoms into the waistband. I
realised it looked like I was wearing a big, navy-blue nappy! I hoisted my pack
on, leaving the hip and torso straps loose, threw my boots over my shoulders
and the pack, gathered my poles and carefully made my way down to enter the
water.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The water was cold, but not as cold some crossings I have
done. As I entered the flow, facing upstream, carefully placing my poles and
feet, the stones underfoot seemed safe enough. Initially, the water was below
my knees. I was moving from the left bank the right, one foot or pole at a
time, pausing to brace myself between every movement. The water was running fast and had a huge pressure
behind it. As I worked my way to the middle of the ford the water got deeper,
over my knees, and more forceful, making it tricky to get my poles down through
the water where I wanted to place them.
It became more and more difficult to maintain my line straight across
the track, and I was pushed slowly, inexorably downstream, with the water
rising to mid thigh. Taking one more step with my right foot I felt my heel
catch against a big rock. I tried to shift my foot forward, but it would not
move. My heel wasn’t caught up between rocks. It was the pressure of the water
<b>holding</b> my foot against the rock. I struggled with this, trying to kick my foot
forwards and upstream into the flow, so I could get my heel past the rock and
continue across the stream.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Suddenly I was whipped around so I was facing downstream,
rotating on my left foot, fighting for balance. I got my poles down and found
the rocky bed with my right foot again, teetering as the water now tried to
fold my knees up below me. All my senses shrieked alarm. I knew I was in trouble.
I tried to take a step further towards the bank … and felt my whole body, 90kg
plus of pack and me, lifted off the bed of the stream by the water. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I was underwater. It sounded like I was diving in from a great
height, and I opened my eyes to see grey and white water boiling around me. I
bounced off big rocks, legs and arms taking a pounding. Water went up my nose
and I coughed, swallowing water. Training kicked in. I pulled for the surface
and broke through, but I was heading downstream headfirst. Bang! My head struck
a rock – but at least I was stopped by it. Coughing and spluttering I hung
there a moment, head downstream, pushed into the rock, wondering what to do. I
tried to get more upright, to find the bottom with my feet and felt the water
start to grab me again, so I relaxed back to my previous position. Oddly, I had
a moment of calm lucidity. Would I drown or would I survive? What did I need to
do? It was probably only a fleeting moment, but I looked around me. I could see
the water rushing past me and the rocks, with the bank not too far away. I
hadn’t lost my glasses. Amazing! <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I wasn’t going to be able to save myself encumbered by my rucksack.
I shrugged my shoulders, intending to hold it as it came off, but it was ripped
out of my grip. It disappeared off at high speed to the left of my ‘anchor’
rock, and I went to its right, back into the maelstrom, like being vigorously
washed in an old-fashioned upright washing tub. I suddenly went from what felt
like high-speed shooting rapids without a canoe to a complete jolting halt,
facing downstream as I banged into something across my torso. Thankfully, my
ribs were cushioned by my pocketful of cap, mittens and socks. A tree-branch
had caught me. Would it hold? <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">As I regained my senses again, I realised that I was caught in
a vee-shaped cleft between branches. As I turned leftwards towards the bank, I
realised that some of the wood was moving past me. What was going on? It took a
few moments for my shocked brain to work it out, but not only had I been caught
by overhanging branches, but they had also caught another small tree which was
floating downstream. Was it going to hit me as I dislodged it, wrestling to
turn in the rescuing branches? Thankfully, the little tree halted before the
roots reached me, caught up on something else. I scrabbled around with my hands
towards the bank, and found muddy grass, then miraculously, a tough gnarly tree
root. I clung on with my right hand and paused for a moment. Immediate danger
averted I hung in the water, much like stopping at the rail in a swimming pool,
catching my breath.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Out of the corner of my eye spotted the tip of one of my
walking poles. Just a couple of inches, the tip and the ‘basket’ sticking out
of the water. It was just beyond my reach. I shifted myself against the branches
and made a lunge, grabbing it tightly in my left hand. I pulled at it, and it
shifted, but seemed stuck. I pulled some more and suddenly I was looking at one
of my boots, the lace wrapped around the pole. WOW! I pulled again, but all I
got was a bit more of the lace exposed, but there was the knot to the other lace.
Where was the other boot? The lace was
tightly stretched – the other boot MUST be there. I gave a huge tug, and
suddenly pole and boots came free, landing higgledy-piggledy all over me. Emptying
the boots of water, I threw them as far as I could up onto the bank, and
followed them, clambering up pulling on the tree root and using the pole. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Don’t ask me how I did it, because I can’t remember, but the
next thing I recall was lying in the soggy vegetation on the bank a good 40 or
50 metres downstream from the ford. I was completely soaked to the skin, very
shaky and glad to be alive. How long I stayed there I don’t know, but my next
memory is of getting away from the water, unzipped wet trouser-legs flapping
all around me, and boots banging off each other as I held them by the laces,
lurching along the bank propped up by my miraculous pole. There was no sign of
my pack. Heart in mouth I searched, but with the massive volume and rate of
flow of the water my gear was gone. All of it. Somewhere downstream, leaving
not a trace that I could see. It was gone. Years of saving and careful
selection. What a mess. Although I hurt all over, nothing seemed broken. I had
lost almost all my equipment, bar what I was wearing and one pole, but I was
alive.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">A lifetime of training, reading, films and experience kicked
in at that point. First, I had to get myself protected from the elements. I found a rock to sit on, and after zipping
up my soaking trousers, I wrung out my socks, emptied my boots a bit more and
got them on my feet. My storm cap went on, with the flap down over my neck. My
hood went up over that. Around my neck as well as my two ‘buffs’ I was wearing
my compass. I emptied out my
‘Extremities’ overmitts, wrung out my knitted mittens, and put the left ones on
while I continued to sort through my pockets with my right hand. My ‘day maps’
(printed A5 back-to-back strip maps) for today and tomorrow had come through
unscathed. My camera, GPS, monocular and tiny fold-up cup had survived. I had
one ‘Raisin Bake’ bar and one ‘Babybel’ cheese. Those would have to be rationed
out. As well as my ‘hygiene kit’, I still had two very soggy cotton hankies, a
facemask and two lipsalves.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V7m9Fusn0lE/X7ZdxXowdkI/AAAAAAAABa0/hZJf8gWDuPo3V3NyJurypJP6L37XMbkUACLcBGAsYHQ/s639/2%2BMisadventures.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="392" data-original-width="639" height="392" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V7m9Fusn0lE/X7ZdxXowdkI/AAAAAAAABa0/hZJf8gWDuPo3V3NyJurypJP6L37XMbkUACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h392/2%2BMisadventures.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><o:p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></o:p></p><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-align: left;">Having got myself as well dressed as I could, and knowing
that although I wouldn’t dry out, at least I would ‘drain’, I knew I needed to
get moving to warm up. Although it was still raining hard, at least there was
not much wind to contend with. I also knew that I could not get in touch with
anyone to ask for help until I walked out to Kinloch Hourn. I had only myself
to sort this out.</span></span></div><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Shock was kicking in quite badly
as I set off along the valley, following the powerline. It didn’t take long to
get to the point where the pylons hopped across the main river, the Abhainn
Ghleann Dubh Lochain, which was much wider than the ford which had nearly
killed me. I scoured the banks, looking
for somewhere to cross, finding nowhere looking even remotely suitable. I
decided to walk up-river, to search for a better place to cross. Raging water
blocked my route again and again and turned me well away from my ‘pylon’ track
to safety. I climbed up, and up and up. Eventually I stood high on the hill
above the main river, looking down on the white ribbons of water cutting across
the soggy brown land. I could see the pylons with the track twisting across the
hillside on the far side of the valley and disappearing off into the distance
towards Kinloch Hourn.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">By this point I had warmed up, and was actually quite
enjoying myself, despite my predicament. I took a short breather. Thinking
through my options I decided that I was going to have to bite the bullet, drop
back down to the main river and search out somewhere to get across, come what
may. I didn’t have a choice. It was cross the river and walk out to seek help
or give up. If I gave up, no one would even begin to look for me until I failed
to turn up in Invergarry tomorrow night. All chance of calling for help had
gone when my phone went with my pack down the river. With no phone I could not
call for help, even if I could find a signal. By tomorrow night, soaked to the
skin, I would be hypothermic. I could be dead. I had to negotiate this rough
terrain on my own to seek help.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">It didn’t take me long to drop back down into the valley. I
was soon searching for possible places to cross the Abhainn Ghleann Dubh
Lochain again. This had swollen into another serious river crossing, much wider
than the one which I had been swept off my feet by. Once again, I could see the
route of a ford. It was terrifying. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I trudged back and forth, looking at the flow of the river, at
the condition the banks, considering rates of flow and depth and weighing up
what I could see against what I know about river dynamics. I spotted a small
area of ‘dead’ water, then realised there was a shingle bank where there must
be reduced flow, to allow the bedload to be dropped. Gradually, by process of
elimination I decided on one route to risk. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Preparing didn’t take as long as
the first time. My boots, socks and trousers were already wet and I was short
on alternatives! I took my glasses off this time, zipping them into my pocked
wrapped up in my cap with my mittens before committing to the water again. (I
made the crossing of the Abhainn Ghleann Dubh Lochain river at NG911101) <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I can truly say they this was one of the most physically
demanding experiences of my life. Every step was a struggle against the force
of the water. I only had one pole to support me instead of two. There were
times when this ‘Leki’ pole seemed to be bending like a banana by the sheer
force of keeping me upright against the flow. Twice I almost fell, but my pole
somehow saved the day. I took it very slowly, moving one foot or the pole at a
time and making myself breathe deeply. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt; margin-left: 0cm; margin-right: 5.9pt; margin-top: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Although the flow of the river was immensely strong, I don’t
think it was as turbulent as at the ford. Eventually, even though it was very,
very difficult I managed to get to the far side safely.</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: center;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt; margin-left: 0cm; margin-right: 5.9pt; margin-top: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: center;"><br /></span></p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><o:p><span style="font-family: arial;"></span></o:p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vSYb6S6S6_s/X7ZXVxCN38I/AAAAAAAABaI/YYSDRLCkdlI0Y_I24o9-a-hHNrI9KfGrwCLcBGAsYHQ/s604/3%2BMisadventures.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="444" data-original-width="604" height="470" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vSYb6S6S6_s/X7ZXVxCN38I/AAAAAAAABaI/YYSDRLCkdlI0Y_I24o9-a-hHNrI9KfGrwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h470/3%2BMisadventures.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Finally, on the correct bank at last, once again I could follow
the pylons. I moved away from the river slowly to find somewhere to empty my
boots out and to eat have half of the ‘Raisin Bake’ bar. Delicious nectar! (If
rather soggy.)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt; margin-left: 0cm; margin-right: 5.9pt; margin-top: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The trek to Kinloch Hourn would, under normal circumstances,
be a lovely walk. On that day it took an inordinately long time as my
misadventure took its toll. It was not possible to rest for more than moments
as there was little shelter from the bad weather so once I stopped, I got very
chilled in my wet clothes. There were a number of smaller rivers to cross which
were also in spate, whilst the awful weather continued, but nothing that posed
any serious problems. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I noticed that as I ‘drained’ down my sleeves, that heavy
puddles were forming inside my right-hand waterproof over-mitt, with the weight
of the puddle threatening to pull the outer off my hand. I was having to stop
to empty it out and wring out its partnered woolly mitten more frequently than
the left. Until I started sorting what was left of my gear out at the hostel the
next day, I had <u>no</u> idea that I had ripped open the shoulder of my jacket!
I guess that with heavy rain falling, with my vision distorted by the rain on
my glasses and with both my Paramo cap and jacket hood firmly cinched down, while
experiencing shock, I was less peripherally aware than usual.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">As well as the bodily injuries from being tumbled by the
river against rocks and ending up caught-up in an overhanging tree, I think
that, particularly during the late afternoon, I was close to hypothermia and
exhaustion. I knew my thinking was getting muddied. I remember getting to a
point where there was a fork in the path above Kinloch Hourn. I took ages
working out which way to go, finding the map totally confusing, though looking
at it now there is no doubt which way I should have gone.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Dusk was falling as I dropped down through the trees to
Kinloch Hourn. I was drawn like a moth to a flame by the first light that I
saw. Knocking at the door of this cottage I was fortunate to be greeted by the
estate’s deerstalker, Harry. He listened to what had happened and then helped
me hugely. He fed me tea and oatcakes, while I dripped copious puddles on his
kitchen floor. Although I had a mask in my pocket, it was soaked through,
making it really difficult to breathe. In the end I took it off. Harry rang the
hostel in Invergarry where I knew I had a booking for the following night so I
could ask the warden if I could arrive a night early. Luckily, the answer was
yes. He then kindly took me down the long backroad to the hostel himself in his
van, Highland hospitality at its best. The journey was made fascinating by the
number of Highland cattle and deer we saw on and beside the road. The most
memorable moment came when his lights caught a badger chasing a mountain hare
along the road. (The hare escaped, and the badger disappeared stage left.)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I was completely soaked from the moment I was swept off my
feet in mid-morning until arriving at The Saddle Mountain Hostel in Invergarry
in the pitch dark. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The wardens, Helen and Greg, were fabulous. Although social
distancing was a hinderance and the kitchen, drying room lounge etc were
closed, I had access to a warm and comfortable room, shower and toilet. Heaven!<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">As I dripped my way into the hostel, they gave me a big
plastic tub for my wet gear and loaned me some dry clothing. They even provided
me with newspaper to stuff my boots, a handful of <span style="font-size: medium;"><b>dry</b></span> disposable face-masks,
a toothbrush, a tube of toothpaste, and some shampoo to use in the shower.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Luckily a resupply parcel of my own food was waiting for me at
the hostel, meant for the remainder of my trip which was due to continue until the following Sunday. After I had a long, hot shower I was able to
eat some cheese and biscuits and drink a mug of tea, then I collapsed into bed.
<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 5.9pt 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The next morning, I had to make sure I looked after myself in
the hostel despite being very unwell. I was too exhausted and too sore to do
much of anything. I made myself porridge (pour boiling water on a premixed bag
of oats, dried milk, dried fruit, let it soak, then eat) then crawled back into
bed. Sleep is a great restorer. As I rested, regaining some of my strength, the
bruises started to surface. I had massive bruising, particularly around my
elbows and all over my legs, and some abrasions. I had bumped my head, wrenched
my back and neck, and hurt my left knee quite badly.<i> </i><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I started to sort out the soggy
bucketful of clothes and oddments from my pockets and was surprised to find what
I had not noticed during the whole </span><span style="font-family: arial;">of the previous afternoon and evening: I had torn the shoulder out of my Paramo Velez Adventure Light waterproof jacket during the accident.</span><span style="font-family: arial;"></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RgR6ZXrwZCY/X7ZX5rKbEMI/AAAAAAAABac/5c4DUllQup0vpkMsH1VsDcvyP6jPbEkSgCLcBGAsYHQ/s480/4%2BMisadventures.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="420" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RgR6ZXrwZCY/X7ZX5rKbEMI/AAAAAAAABac/5c4DUllQup0vpkMsH1VsDcvyP6jPbEkSgCLcBGAsYHQ/w350-h400/4%2BMisadventures.jpg" width="350" /></a></span></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The wardens kindly took some of my
clothes to wash for me and I festooned my room with other things to air-dry, while
I repeatedly stuffed my boots with newspaper.</span><span style="font-family: arial;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: center;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0gStH5IDZw8/X7Zbgc4UvKI/AAAAAAAABao/5cffz_xVdVgt_qpR31MeK8xf2IcXF5Y5QCLcBGAsYHQ/s636/5%2BMisadventures.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="380" data-original-width="636" height="239" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0gStH5IDZw8/X7Zbgc4UvKI/AAAAAAAABao/5cffz_xVdVgt_qpR31MeK8xf2IcXF5Y5QCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h239/5%2BMisadventures.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">At this point I had still not been able to speak to anyone at
home. Our landline there was out, taking down the internet too, because workmen
cut through the cable while replacing a gas main in our street, and I couldn’t
remember mobile phone numbers. Greg helped me find the number for my husband’s
work, and finally I was able to speak to him. We made arrangements for him to
drive up to collect me from the hostel after work the next day as I was not fit
to travel on public transport, and I had no money, cards or phone to make
arrangements or pay. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Even though the hostel was usually closed during the day Helen
and Greg kindly let me stay and sleep for most of the day on Tuesday. There was
no way that I could have left the hostel. I was in too much pain. To help with
this Helen lent me a wonderfully comforting hot water bottle for my aches. She also
found a big flask which they periodically refilled with boiling water. Because
I was struggling to move I could not go out to seek food from other local
providers, but by digging into my resupply parcel I was able to make my own
(instant) tea through the day and rehydrate my breakfast and evening meals. I
had more Babybels and pepperoni, oatcakes, dried fruit and nuts and other
edibles as I would on the trail. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I felt slightly better by Wednesday morning, and borrowed a
book on an Everest expedition which I read for much of the day in between
further snoozes. I was delighted to receive a message that Ron had been given
the afternoon off work, so he could set of earlier to pick me up, as it was a
seven hour drive each way.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">In the afternoon I tried getting my limbs moving again with a
bit of gentle Tai Chi. I was determined to put a brave face on things when Ron
got there, but kept getting flashbacks of the moment when I was underwater when
grey and white water was boiling around me as I bounced off big rocks. I knew
it would take some time to process the trauma. I was nervous and excited as I
waited for Ron, but at the same time ashamed and sorry to have put him to all
this trouble. I should have known him better after nearly forty years: he took
one look at me and knew he would be doing most of the driving home. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I got myself back into my own clothes when they were dry, and
collected together my meagre belongings. I had more food than anything else.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">With great thanks I said goodbye to Helen and Greg, very
grateful for the kindness and help they had provided. I bent Ron’s ear with my
de-brief most of the way home! Above all, I was glad to be alive!<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Sharing my story with a friend (also an experienced solo
walker, who had taken the same route herself some time before) she said: “I don’t even remember the burns probably
because in good conditions they were unremarkable.”<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">It has surprised me how much
knock-on hassle there has been: contacting the police and various insurance
companies, trying to get hold of the Paramo repairs department and having a
locksmith in to change the front door lock. (The key was in my lost pack). It
took me over a week to get my (insured) phone handset replaced, (although SIM
cards were sent out to me 24 hours after I contacted the provider.) <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The most mind-boggling part of
it all is the gear I have lost. I have Trek BMC Insurance, but never dreamt
that the gear would be worth more than the sizeable sum insured – I had never
tallied it up before. And then there was providing evidence for everything.
From now on I think I am going to become even more obsessive about the records
I keep – not only how many grammes each thing weighs, but also keeping receipts
and labels when I buy new gear. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></p>
<p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;">*****<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><b>Post-script. </b></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;">A month after the accident the lesser bruises have gone, and the worst ones are fading. Likewise the skin on my legs, shredded through my trousers, is healing. If I am careful my back doesnt hurt too much, and my left knee will just about take my weight again if I don't turn too suddenly. I have got a new phone and replaced most of the contents of my wallet. I have managed
to contact Paramo, to put my jacket on their 14-week waiting list for repair. I
am still waiting for the BMC Insurance claim to be resolved.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;">*****<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p style="text-align: left;"></p><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><b>Will I do it again? </b></span></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="line-height: 107%;">Of course, I will, just as
soon as lockdown eases and I replace some of my gear. </span></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="line-height: 107%;">I can already hear the
hills calling...</span></span></p>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17936841596623221054noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3855601948400120759.post-37822451171631618962018-08-26T12:29:00.001-07:002018-08-26T12:29:36.679-07:00LEJOG part one, August 2018<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For some time, the idea of walking from Land’s End to John O’Groats had been nagging away at the back of my brain. The luxury of three months or so to devote to walking it all in one go was not possible, but the idea had continued to churn away on a ‘</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">one day<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">’</span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> basis. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As 2018 began I faced the imminent arrival of my 60</span><sup style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">th</sup><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> birthday. My nearest and dearest pointed out that perhaps I ought to get a move on and complete LEJOG. If I couldn’t do it all in one go I could do it a bit at a time. He reminded me that I had already walked most of the Pennine Way and all of the West Highland Way in amongst my other treks. Rather than leaving it on the back burner I ought to get going. I would not be working in August: I should do a chunk then. I should start at Land’s End. He would drop me off there and I would see how far I could get. Tentative plans were made.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It should be noted that </span><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">I love a cloudy day on the hills, particularly walking on high moorland or taking paths along valleys. Whether it is my local West Pennine hills such as </span><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Winter Hill ...</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0oyCHHll-m8/W4Ln4W7Az0I/AAAAAAAABUY/3xglBdNTAxsJD3OqAnp0Ja_oigzHp83egCLcBGAs/s1600/P1020745.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0oyCHHll-m8/W4Ln4W7Az0I/AAAAAAAABUY/3xglBdNTAxsJD3OqAnp0Ja_oigzHp83egCLcBGAs/s320/P1020745.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking towards Anglezark from Winter Hill, spring 2018, before the great fire.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
... moorland further afield... <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8sYh78pQqSE/W4LzB8H8geI/AAAAAAAABU4/nwPRRBzIkDsqUFqpLJGWmZbGtgaoBQd7gCEwYBhgL/s1600/P1010219.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8sYh78pQqSE/W4LzB8H8geI/AAAAAAAABU4/nwPRRBzIkDsqUFqpLJGWmZbGtgaoBQd7gCEwYBhgL/s320/P1010219.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the Cleveland Way, Easter 2016</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">... or on glorious valley routes such as along Glen Affric, I love the gentle rhythm of taking a path and seeing the view evolve throughout the day.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dhaFYgyy2kA/W4L04EHOkEI/AAAAAAAABVA/wXC2uvpOGoQr0NqtA8UKOh_9fMk8oIhOQCLcBGAs/s1600/P1010409.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dhaFYgyy2kA/W4L04EHOkEI/AAAAAAAABVA/wXC2uvpOGoQr0NqtA8UKOh_9fMk8oIhOQCLcBGAs/s320/P1010409.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Early morning in Glen Affric, TGO Challenge, May 2016</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I love walking in the winter, especially when it is frosty. I don’t mind the rain, though slithering through mud and bog day upon day does get me down.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DuqYo4G0nD4/W4LsWYCRE7I/AAAAAAAABUo/gwDxk0SY7tAUe3iKEMUeAIU91FTihRuQQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMGP5624.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DuqYo4G0nD4/W4LsWYCRE7I/AAAAAAAABUo/gwDxk0SY7tAUe3iKEMUeAIU91FTihRuQQCLcBGAs/s320/IMGP5624.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Northumberland mud, Pennine Way 2015</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I find strong wind sapping, sometimes hunkering down in shelter when it gets too windy. I hate being too hot, and because of this generally avoid strenuous walking in good summer weather Being brutally honest, I usually have a ‘closed season’ from June through to the beginning of September. Planning to walk a significant section of LEJOG in August left me questioning my sanity, but I went along with it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Summer 2018 was extraordinary both for heat and lack of rain. My original idea of ‘stealth wildcamping’ through Cornwall and Devon, losing myself as far away from civilisation as possible, was thwarted by the drought. I just was not going to find the water I needed without a struggle. I</span><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">roughed out a new route using parts of the north section of the south-west coast path, other paths and minor roads to link campsites </span><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">so I could have reliable water available each day.</span><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"> Checking the route on Memory Maps I realised there was going to be a huge amount of climbing and descent. I compared it against my TGO Challenge crossing of Scotland in May. </span><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">(Solo backpacking from the west coast of Scotland to the east coast.)</span><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">There was going to be a great deal more climbing involved in this trip. Was I going to cope?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">On the Challenge in May, I had suffered badly with swollen feet, arthritis and blisters, </span><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">because of the extraordinary heat</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">. As a result I reduced the daily mileage from my original plan for the LEJOG to allow for more breaks, and so I could avoid walking in the worst of the heat. </span><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">I added a small tarp to my kit so </span><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">I could get shelter from the sun when I needed it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Monday 6</span><sup style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">th</sup><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"> August saw me dropped off by family at Land’s End, with photos taken for posterity. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I was off. Quickly I became immersed in the scenery. I was born and lived for many years near the sea but now live inland, so I loved the sound of the waves and the unfolding vistas. As I relaxed into the walking I realised that the local plant life and the butterflies were very different from those at home. I did not recognise so many things. Now and again I came across things that looked really exotic, such as a bright pink flower with leaves that looked like they belonged on a houseplant, not growing wild on a sunny spot near the beach.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I also became aware, very quickly, of the importance of mining in this land. I knew that tin mining and china clay extraction have played an important part in Cornwall’s heritage. I soon noticed features such as old mine entrances burrowing into the cliffside, and later saw the rearing stonework from old mine-workings. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I spent Monday night camped behind The North Inn in the village of Pendeen. I was lucky to have access to toilet and shower in the pub itself – although I was too tired to take advantage of their meals or bar. I simply pitched my tent, cleaned myself up, made my tea and went to sleep.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Alongside the industrial archaeology, farms were working hard to be as productive as possible in the modern world. On the Tuesday, climbing away from the coast into welcome cloud and mist, I was delighted to note the sign beside the entrance to one dairy farm with a mock stamp of ‘officialdom’ from the ‘Department of Dairy Related Scrumptious Affairs’. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The cows producing the milk peered over the gate at me across the road, from fields with very little grass. </span><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">I wondered how the farmers were managing to feed their herds – and how much longer the drought was going to last. The very fine mizzle I was experiencing was not enough to make me wear a coat, let alone make the grass grow strongly.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The cloud soon burnt away, and I spent most of the rest of the day tramping along inland pathways. There is a whole network around Zenor of ‘church paths’ linking the farms to the churches. Here I saw granite ‘cattle grids’ for the first time. These are huge blocks of granite, as big as gateposts, laid horizontally. Where still in operation there are gaps between the blocks, making it impossible for cattle to cross, but easy for humans to negotiate. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In some places there are less blocks at ground level, but one built into the walls at about knee height, as a stile over the ground level blocks. These were trickier to get over, but still easier than a modern timber stile.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> On some of the paths the stone cattle grids were no longer in use, with the gaps between stones having been filled in.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> Quite a few of the paths were protected from the strong wind by high hedges, sometimes on both sides. I came to appreciate that in this land which sticks out into the Atlantic with its prevailing westerly winds, the farmers encourage high hedges to protect their fields, their homes and their routeways.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Some considerable distance on these paths near Zenor was through fields of maize. This is a crop I have never seen close up before. I was fascinated not only by the sheer size of the plants, but the structure of the plants, with the corn cobs developing quite low down, rather than at the top as in other grains I am familiar with.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Eventually I left the field paths and took to a road climbing high over Rosewall Hill, above St Ives. Here I could clearly see the parched, grazed fields to the left of the road and greener bracken covered rough land to the right of the road.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After two days out in the countryside it was a real shock to the system to come into the crowded bustle of St Ives. The commercial campsite here was everything I hate in campsites: crowded, noisy hilly and expensive. There were some really badly-behaved people, and I very much kept myself to myself. I put my ear plugs in and slept.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Early the next morning (Wednesday) I left, enjoying and early stroll through this famous little town of St Ives before the crowds were out of bed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-suEB_S2dAW0/W4KvQZEox1I/AAAAAAAABLY/hXqjV838j4U-lNnoOLJu9XD-RI0Efx0qACEwYBhgL/s1600/P1030157.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-suEB_S2dAW0/W4KvQZEox1I/AAAAAAAABLY/hXqjV838j4U-lNnoOLJu9XD-RI0Efx0qACEwYBhgL/s320/P1030157.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> Some of the roads were barely wider than paths, and led steeply down the hillside. Here it was so steep that the the footpath had not only been stepped, but there was also a well polished handrail to help those less secure on their feet.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Arriving at the bottom of the hill I found an interesting old market building, before going on to find the harbour and the lifeboat station.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">From here I trundled down to Hayle and spotted some interesting birds on the estuary (A pair of white storks? Egrets?)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> I did some food shopping and then tackled the path from The Towans to Gwithian.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> Oh my! It looks easy on the map. Three and a half kilometres straight across the bay. I started out from Towans on a path through the sand dunes (steeply climbing and descending, twisting, sandy paths) but this route was blocked by a group of men attending to the brambles etc with strimmers. I made my way (up and over several dunes sideways) to the beach. Crossing the dry soft sand at the head of the beach I found a harder, wetter area, and followed the wheel-tracks made by the lifeguard’s Landrover between their various lookout points on the beach. Some sections of the beach were completely empty. If I had not been humping my heavy pack (</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">because I had just topped up my food in Hayle) </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">it would have been a delightful stroll, but the 'give' in the sand made it tough going.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The sun was strong, with no shelter. Despite the cooling effect of the wind I got very hot. I stopped for a rest about half way across the bay, and sat on my rucksack on the sand, wilting. The wind cooled me down a bit, and I felt strong enough to move on. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Eventually I got to some rocks and stopped there for my lunch – eating oatcakes and the tin of sardines I had bought in Hayle. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Stopping here for lunch was a mistake. As I sat relaxing, recovering from the toil of crossing the sand I realised the tide was coming in and the point I was making for was no longer accessible. Oops. The rocks I was sitting on were buried into unsafe looking sandy ‘cliffs’. Should I go back a bit (and loose all the distance I had already laboured on the sand?) As I pondered, I saw a labrador suddenly appear a bit further up the beach. It gambolled around for a minute, ran into the sea and back out, then stood expectantly looking up at the cliff. I wondered if it had people following it onto the beach? Sure enough, a few minutes later it was joined by a family, all clutching surf boards. There must be a path. I was going to be OK. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A path of sorts! Erosion had made it very precarious, but I trusted to the fact that a whole family had just descended safely as I gingerly climbed, laden with </span>rucksack<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">, with my heart in my mouth, up the disintegrating surface. </span><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6gtkBC34DGs/W4KzLSGxvoI/AAAAAAAABMQ/amuD1QHn-vsBWKFuPJ8PWG5unZAScyv3ACEwYBhgL/s1600/P1030173.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6gtkBC34DGs/W4KzLSGxvoI/AAAAAAAABMQ/amuD1QHn-vsBWKFuPJ8PWG5unZAScyv3ACEwYBhgL/s320/P1030173.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Pausing to catch my breath I realised that there were warning signs and cones at the top, although nothing to stop me from the bottom of the path. </span><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oh4kEBsY-Wg/W4Kz4DRKEBI/AAAAAAAABMs/ps0kGsx-OV0I1UtWdwN0-MLoPFsiVqwMACEwYBhgL/s1600/P1030177.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oh4kEBsY-Wg/W4Kz4DRKEBI/AAAAAAAABMs/ps0kGsx-OV0I1UtWdwN0-MLoPFsiVqwMACEwYBhgL/s320/P1030177.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I found myself embroiled again in the sand dunes. Up and down, twist and turn, up and down. The sun broiled down and I got hotter and hotter. Eventually I got to a car park and found the path to Gwithian. The farm here was growing cabbages.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yadfcsaZyP0/W4K25vFOXqI/AAAAAAAABM4/Fw6ABNW-UEUYe-gkj1VrUFOX5lr9yXIagCLcBGAs/s1600/P1030180.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yadfcsaZyP0/W4K25vFOXqI/AAAAAAAABM4/Fw6ABNW-UEUYe-gkj1VrUFOX5lr9yXIagCLcBGAs/s320/P1030180.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The path led past field after field of cabbages, all surrounded by netting to keep out rabbits. The path ran right into the campsite and went to book in at reception – only to find out I was on the wrong campsite! Once again, I picked up my pack and set off. My relief at arriving at the RIGHT campsite was immense. Not only was it a decent campsite, well laid-out and fairly peaceful (though with lots of excited children about) but they had a shop. After I got my tent up I went back to the shop and treated myself to an ice cream.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I was absolutely <u>shattered</u>, dehydrated and overheated. I lay in my tent feeling awful. I drank some zero (electrolyte solution) and dozed awhile. Feeling REALLY awful, I went over to the toilet block. I just made it before I threw up. Icecream and sardines. Ugh! I really emptied my stomach. I cleaned myself up – and showered. This cooled me down a bit. I went back to the tent. Was this the start of a ‘bug’ or was it heat exhaustion? I thought probably the latter. I needed to get water inside me but felt really averse to taking any on-board. I filled my bottle and made myself sip it a bit at a time. All I was capable of was lying in my tent. At some point I phoned home. Sometime after sunset I tried to eat an oatcake. This time I didn’t make the toilet block – gave my generous donation of water to the parched field. Rinsed my mouth out and cleaned my teeth again. Sipped just water again. Slept.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">On Thursday morning I woke feeling light-headed, but otherwise OK. I slowly ate breakfast – and it stayed down. I had an extra cup of tea. It all stayed down. Knowing I would be short on energy today as I had not refuelled last night (and lost my lunch) I set off, initially on the road, to cut off the headland at Godrevey. I soon re-joined the coast path, this time on a cliff line. I passed the famous ‘Hells Mouth’, a bay where two currents collide, and numerous ships have foundered. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The path here has some monstrous climbs. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The path - close to me and on the far side of a valley</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking along the valley </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OMMN0QbW710/W4K3ndsF_5I/AAAAAAAABNc/6rCXkJOiiJwphNbnj4qAaEgZGAYK6qOoACEwYBhgL/s1600/P1030188.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OMMN0QbW710/W4K3ndsF_5I/AAAAAAAABNc/6rCXkJOiiJwphNbnj4qAaEgZGAYK6qOoACEwYBhgL/s320/P1030188.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back at the path I used to descend into the valley</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> Every stream cuts a valley – so high cliffs mean very steep descents and ascents. I was very glad to head inland from Portreath to Illogan, to the youth hostel, which is located at Nance Farm.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There were few residents here on this night and I was lucky enough to have a room to myself. I was able to shower and wash my clothes, hanging them to dry on a proper washing line in the yard. I sat in a comfy chair reading my kindle till I felt sleepy, then slept in a real bed.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Friday passed in a blur of road walking and tracks which brought me to Perranporth. I think that after being kind to myself on Thursday and taking it easy for a day I was beginning to really feel the after-effects of being ill on Wednesday evening. As I booked into the big commercial campsite I was told about a barbeque that was being held that night, but I was too tired for that. Setting up my gear I broke the leg on my gas cylinder stand. It was not a massive problem as I had just moved from the tiny gas cylinder I started with (which does not provide a stable base for my cooking pot on its own so needs a stand) to a standard sized one which is much more stable on its own, although I do like using the stand. I tried to mend it with gaffer-tape and matchstick splints, but it didn’t work. I propped the broken bit up with a clothes-peg and cooked my tea. Soon after eating my tea I crashed out in my tent, dead to the world.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">On Saturday I woke early and set off with determination. It was raining before I got into Newquay. It felt really strange being wrapped up in waterproofs. In the milling crowds of people, I felt quite un-nerved and I was quite glad to have a waterproof layer zipped up over my purse which was ready for shopping in my pocket. I found a camping shop but was really disappointed to not be able to replace my broken gas cylinder stand. The man I spoke to was offhand to the point of being rude. It must be said that hey seemed to be stocking lots of cheap clothing and not much actual useful camping gear. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I topped up my food stocks and headed out of Newquay as fast as I could but found a nice seat in a shelter out of the wind above one of the beaches where I ate lunch. With a full tummy I felt better and continued on my way, following the coast path. I had heard that there was a music festival – and this was evidenced by the vast number of people going back and forth in single-sex groups, all seeming to be between the ages of about 16 and 19. Heading north out of town I came upon the site for the festival, which extended right out to the coast path. I was treated music from a whole set of sound stages located in various tents, marquees and caravans.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> It was fascinating, as I could see through the fencing to the backstage areas. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5iR7RhJclBo/W4LA2-ZeGJI/AAAAAAAABOQ/bozEml4mqA02tMhy7cmJ161f4s3zmvKEACEwYBhgL/s1600/P1030203.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5iR7RhJclBo/W4LA2-ZeGJI/AAAAAAAABOQ/bozEml4mqA02tMhy7cmJ161f4s3zmvKEACEwYBhgL/s320/P1030203.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: transparent;">There was one particularly nice jazz stage that I sat and listened to for a while.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Eventually, I carried on my way, serenaded all the time by whatever stage was dominant. Turning inland half-way along Watergate Bay I made my way to the Camping and Caravanning Club site at Tregurrian. The staff there were lovely! They found me a sheltered pitch tucked in by some fencing, as the already strong wind was forecast to increase. I was able to use the laundry to wash all my dirty clothes, including my very ripe trousers. To top the bill, a pizza wagon came on site at teatime. I sat in the laundry on a real chair, eating pizza, and reading my kindle, listening to the music. When I was ready for bed I put my ear plugs in and slept really well. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Sunday saw me up early again and heading off in my lovely clean clothes towards Padstow. I had in mind that there were cafes there, and that there should be some nice tea and cake.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There seemed to be an interesting local style of walling using narrow slate-like stones, in zig-zag patterns. Most of the ones I saw were geometrically regular – but one crazy looking wall stood by the road as I went down into Padstow itself. It was built around outcropping bedrock and seemed to exist at mad angles – but remain upright.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LVrlq5pDOe8/W4LB1ZymltI/AAAAAAAABOw/solnijNYgK8nL5TYaMI26YqdKfj_KxCgwCEwYBhgL/s1600/P1030214.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LVrlq5pDOe8/W4LB1ZymltI/AAAAAAAABOw/solnijNYgK8nL5TYaMI26YqdKfj_KxCgwCEwYBhgL/s320/P1030214.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Nothing could have prepared me for Padstow itself. Initially I thought “what a nice fishing village” as I descended steeply past picturesque rows of cottages. Then some posh shops and eateries appeared, and then PEOPLE. It was like a sardine tin! There was a huge queue at an ATM, so I abandoned though of getting any money out. In shock I made my way gingerly through the crowds, wondering how on earth to find my way to the ferry I needed. Then I saw a sign for an information centre. The helpful lady inside gave me directions, and without further ado I went to the pick-up point. I had to wait for three-quarters of an hour, as the tide was wrong – so I dumped my pack and just sat on it. No way was I going back into that crowd, not even for tea and cake! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The journey across the river Camel was short, ending at a place called Rock. I could tell from the shops here that this was a ‘moneyed’ place. There were lots of big houses, and tons of new building going on. This was how the other half live. I passed a garage and realised it had a little shop and ATM. With a quick about turn I was able to get some cash out, with no queue here. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The names of the places in this area were very whimsical: climbing the hill I went through a place called Stoptide, then a place called Splatt. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EjtNa6di5VE/W4LCw8nPoYI/AAAAAAAABPI/lrhIoOUKM2g9dyQiR9bXRdTaFAfiQvn2wCEwYBhgL/s1600/P1030225.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EjtNa6di5VE/W4LCw8nPoYI/AAAAAAAABPI/lrhIoOUKM2g9dyQiR9bXRdTaFAfiQvn2wCEwYBhgL/s320/P1030225.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There was a junction at Pityme, where I turned to the farm where I was going to camp for the night. The prices at the campsite reflected the elevated class of the area I had walked through, though the facilities were rather shabby. Not somewhere I would return to in a hurry!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Monday saw me make another early start. A whole week on the road! Passing through the village of St Miniver I saw a lych gate combined with ancient cattlegrid (filled in). Interesting.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I stuck to the road to make good time for much of the day, fed up with the constant up and down of the coast path. I went back down to the coast path at Trebarwith Strand. It was fascinating how the bedrock was worked here to produce a curving jetty for ships to load slated at high tide. It was all exposed when I went past at low tide. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The next section of coast was amazing. The rocks here are slate. The cliffs have been quarried on an immense scale. </span><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">There is a pillar of ‘useless rock’ left standing in the middle of one of these quarries. It shows the sheer scale of what has been removed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FiRA3YMlRh8/W4LIVfLcL-I/AAAAAAAABQE/Mi7PCdXf3X0BzUMhhVyuVIhTW1L8NdmpwCEwYBhgL/s1600/P1030241.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FiRA3YMlRh8/W4LIVfLcL-I/AAAAAAAABQE/Mi7PCdXf3X0BzUMhhVyuVIhTW1L8NdmpwCEwYBhgL/s320/P1030241.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> Although the main use of the slate was for roofing slate, the smaller pieces are used for the local ‘zig-zag’ walls. I saw an interesting one where ‘doorways’ had been left for the sheep to move from one area to another. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">The end of the day saw me arrive at Tintagel youth hostel, which is actually about a mile south of the tourist trap at Dunderhole Point.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I think this must have been a lookout originally, as it is built right on (or rather into) the cliff. </span><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">It is run by volunteer wardens. </span><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">I think that apart from the wardens I was the only English person there that night. Once I had sorted out my gear I chopped up some of my dried apple rings and cooked them with the blackberries I had picked along the way, leaving them to cool for pudding. Nice!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The dorm was overlooking the sea, with narrow, high windows. It was a strange shape – perhaps this had been the original lookout room. The shower although hot, was not draining properly, so I had to get out quickly before it flooded the floor. The kitchen had plenty of facilities and tables and chairs, but no common room with comfortable chairs. It was good weather, although windy, so I was able to sit outside and read till I wanted to go to bed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I woke on Tuesday feeling lonely. It was our 37<sup>th</sup> wedding anniversary, and I was alone. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I sat outside on the windy cli</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">ff and rang home, almost bursting into tears as we talked. The low mood stayed with me, as I trudged on my way. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I decided to walk past the ‘castle’ at Tintagel and go straight into the village. I bought teabags, crackers and an orange and enquired about whether there was a post office to send home my used maps. I was lucky – the post-office van was in the car park until 11am, so I climbed up through the village and sent my package home. I was still feeling rotten as I re-traced my steps through the tourists and got back on my way. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The cliffs here were high, so the streams had cut very deep valleys, almost like gorges. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> I understood why Boscastle got flooded a few years ago, when a flash flood (Thunder storm I think) coincided with a very high tide. There was nowhere for the water to go.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Arriving at the farm campsite I was not able to book in. When I rang the bell a very old gentleman asked me to come back to pay later, telling me I could pitch anywhere I liked. There seemed to be three fields in use. One was quite busy, moderately sloping, the next was very sloping and nearly empty, and then, tucked away behind the barn a small almost level grassy area with a caravan and one other tent. No brainer! OK the panels on the barn wall were a bit noisy in the wind – but flat….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">One high point of the day was the number of juicy blackberries I saw. At teatime I walked along the hedge around the field and collected a good handful to have with my instant semolina pudding.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">An early start on Wednesday, and lots of road walking brought me back to the coast path at Widemouth Bay. The sandy mudstone cliffs at the north of the beach reminded me of what I had seen when I was doing the Cleveland Way. Erosion was in full swing, with obvious storm damage and debris on the beach. There were some homes which were in precarious positions. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Once again it was a wild and windy day, which kept me cool although it was very hot at the rare sheltered points. I had a lovely afternoon walking the section up towards Bude. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It was quite freaky to suddenly recognise the beach where 40 years ago I had done geology field-work as a student, working on the sedimentary rocks on the beach, measuring dips and strikes and plotting out the folding. We had some real fun here, and the echoes of that laughter ghosted through my memories. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Before I knew it, I was up by the ‘compass tower’ on the headland before setting off into town to find where the campsite was. This was a really strange place. A bit Marie Celeste. It was an almost empty, steeply sloping field with two containers down one side, one with toilets, one with showers, and a notice board saying when the owner would come to collect the campsite fees. There was a big commercial bin in the middle of the field, bursting full of rubbish bags, so it looked as if it had been busy in the recent past. If I hadn’t been so tired I would have looked for somewhere else to go. However, the toilet was clean, and I had a wash in the basin – didn’t fancy the shower. I found a small spot that didn’t slope too badly right at the top of the field, tucked under a huge hedge, which looked like it hadn’t been trimmed for about 20 years. I pitched up there and made a cup of tea, then changed into my shorts and running top to cool off. For once unencumbered by my pack, I went shopping, as previous research had shown a Sainsburys at the other end of town, and I also needed to find somewhere that sold gas. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Walking through Bude I noticed a camping shop. Unfortunately, they only had large gas cannisters in stock and I wanted a mini one, or if not that a standard sized one. They were able to point me to another place where I found a little one – at a gold-dust price – but also a canister stand! Very happy to be able to replace my broken stand I paid the ransom, then followed directions from the shop assistant as to how to get to Sainsbury’s. Stepping over the threshold into the supermarket was shocking as the air conditioning was running on high, and it was distinctly chilly. Luckily, I had brought my windproof jacket with me, so I slipped it on and then set about finding some salad and quiche (non-dehydrated food!) for tea, plus a few treats. I also stocked up on cheese, oatcakes, noodles and couscous for the next few days. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Bude was busy, with quite crowded streets, but I didn’t react to suddenly being amongst the numbers of people as badly as I had done in Newquay or Padstow. I felt happy and relaxed, looking forward to my tea. Perhaps it came down to the fact that I had happy, though very vague, memories of the place. Perhaps it came down to not having to heft my rucksack through the crowds. Maybe the pre-shopping cup of tea and change into cool clothing had helped. For whatever reason, Bude was a happy place to be.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As I got back to the campsite and started to make tea the cabaret arrived! A posh Range Rover drove up the field and stopped at the top near me, and out jumped a very ‘bling’ woman wearing a completely inappropriate floaty top, and two teenage boys. Eavesdropping over the next couple of hours as they put up a big tent and a little one at the side (yes, at least 2 hours) it was Mum and son plus friend. About half an hour into their performance another car turned up with friends of the family to help them make camp. What a palaver! Eventually they all got ready to go for a meal, piled into their cars and disappeared. I guess they came back at some point, but they had been quiet, thank goodness. I slept through any encore they may have made.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">On Thursday morning the Range Rover was back – and the big tent appeared to have come un-pegged on the windward side during the night! Luckily their guy ropes had stayed secure. There was no sign of movement from my neighbours as I breakfasted and struck camp.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I headed north from Bude with no clear idea of where I was going to pitch up for the night. I had heard of a pub where some people camp, but after last evening’s cabaret I did not feel inclined to a repeat performance. The day ground on in climbing cliffs and descents. Stunning views but very hard work. Eventually I ground to a halt, tucked my tent in behind a hedge and wild camped, filtering water from a stream. Tired out, I was soon asleep. Walk, eat sleep, repeat. I love wild camping!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Friday saw me back on the coast path, but I got to the point where I saw yet another deep valley ahead of me and almost burst into tears. I reached a very low point and began looking very hard for routes across country rather than up and down and round the coast. Unfortunately, the roads and very few paths were all also doing lots of up-and-downy stuff too, as this seemed to be the prevailing landscape. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The minor roads had plusses and minuses. Plus – you could generally put your feet down one in front of another without looking where to place each foot. Minus – constant vigilance for car drivers, some of whom thought they were driving on motorways. Minus, lots of the minor roads have banks topped by hedges rather than verges, (sunken lanes) so there is very little room to retreat from said drivers. Minus – many of the banks to these roads, onto which it is necessary to leap, are generously endowed with hawthorn, gorse, brambles and copious quantities of nettles. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Despite all the minuses, I took to the roads. I survived, and eventually got myself to Stoke Barton campsite – which is a superb farm campsite. The weather was brewing up for a nasty blow, and I was able to get myself a level pitch tucked right into a corner of two hedges.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The toilet blocks were clean and cheerful, and there were nice showers. There was even ‘piped’ radio in the toilet block! There was a useful shop on site, which was just as well, because I was down to my last breakfast rations.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After a stormy night I was not feeling terribly well rested as I set off on Saturday. I decided to stick with the roads to begin the day, but this was not a good idea, because it was changeover day, and the roads got busy as the day progressed. Again, I did not have a firm idea about where to end my day, so after by-passing Clovelly (I had heard numerous tales about this place) I headed back to the coast and started looking for somewhere to tuck up for the night. There were lots of juicy blackberries, and I feasted along the way, and picked a goodly number to add to my pudding. There are some quite nice benches located along the path, and some of these have fairly open ground around them. I settled into one of these to make my tea, remained undisturbed – so pitched camp for the night. No-one bothered me. Wildcamp again!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There was no real minor road alternative to the coast path on Sunday (the main A39 runs fairly close to the coast here and I was not going anywhere near that) so I was stuck with uppy-downy cliff walking. The weather was cool, however, with occasional squalls of rain charging through on turbo assisted winds.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Not a bad day for walking! I went down to one of the beaches for my lunch, where the wind seemed to be less strong. The entire beach seemed to be made up of huge grey cobbles. It was even worse that walking through the boulder fields in the Llairig Ghru – al least they have flat surfaces to aim for, but these were all egg shapes. I didn’t roam far before finding somewhere to perch and eat. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The strong wind I was experiencing was obviously a persistent thing hereabouts, as there were many sections of path which were walled in by protective hedges. In places it was like walking through a green tunnel.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There were loads of blackberries, and I gorged myself, as well as picking a bagful to have with my tea.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I was fascinated by the stiles here – in addition to the usual ‘climb-over’ bit, there was a contraption which allowed dog owners to draw up a plank on one side, so their dog could run through. I have seen so many dog owners struggling with their muts, having to lift them over. What a good idea!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Erosion was still an issue in this area. There seemed to be significant cutting back by the streams. One I noticed had cut a mini headland, and complete with what would probably normally be a waterfall and pool, was working its way back inland. Even after the drought there was water seeping over the lip and filling the pool. Geography in action! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Climbing inland a little way I camped at Greencliff farm. My pitch was up against a hedge in the orchard, in amongst the apple trees. The owner was lovely, selling me eggs and bread for dinner tomorrow. Facilities were basic but scrupulously clean. What a lovely place to stay.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My last day -Monday- and I started early, concerned in case anything should hold me up at my rendezvous point. I knew there was going to be a long road walk, through Bideford before taking up the coast path which runs concurrently with the ‘Tarka Trail’ along the river Torridge and river Taw, using the route of an old railway line. I was looking forward to being able to stretch my legs and do some decent distance today, as this would be fairly flat.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There was one horrible section of road, busy with commuters between Abbotsham and the outskirts of Bideford, but once in town there was a footpath, and the stress level dropped massively. I stopped for a second breakfast sitting on a bench outside the hospital, then headed on into town. I found some toilets near the old market place, then dropped down to the river where there is a nice ‘prom’ area.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Here I found a little statue of Tarka, then sat for a while looking at the river and wildlife. The tide was low, but had just changed, and it was interesting seeing water running down the river but upstream with the tide, at the same time. There were lots of wading birds taking advantage of low water, exploring the sand-banks and pools.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Crossing the ancient bridge I was able to look down through the water and see shellfish on the sand banks below. They were particularly densely clustered where the river water was meeting the upstream tidal flow. I wondered about the particular set of conditions at this point, - perhaps I ought to find out something about the ecology of shellfish.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After a rather scruffy start, the Tarka trail soon left town and took me through some fascinating environments, full of interesting plants and birdlife. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There were lots and lots of bikes about. More bikes than walkers. As the morning drew on the commuter bikers gave way to those who were bikepacking, and people out for a day on their bikes. Later still families started appearing, with quite a few having little trailers for their smallest children. One or two even had special dog trailers! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I was starting to flag, thinking about stopping to brew up, when I got to the little village of Instow. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Here the old railway is celebrated with a preserved signal box and level crossing, complete with rails. Seeing a sign for a pub offering a range of refreshments I left the trail briefly for a pot of tea. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Returning to the trail, my heart sank when I saw the opening to a tunnel appearing around a corner. The prospect of walking along in the dark was worrysome. I was relieved when a few steps more took me into a position to see the light at the end of the tunnel – it was not going to be a long, dark tramp, more a short gloomy trundle.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As I stepped into the darkness I suddenly worried whether bikes would see me. In the winter, if I am out walking at night I put a red light on the back of my pack and a white one on the front on the shoulder strap, so I can be seen. I had none of these with me. However, I must have been visible against the outline of ‘light at the end of the tunnel’, as with much ringing of bells a pair of cyclists sped past me somewhere in the middle.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The surroundings changed from mud-flats to sand dunes. This was how to traverse dunes – via an old railway line that has been made into a cycle track! No horrible uppy-downy-twisty- sandy paths giving way below my feet. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I was really enjoying my walking when a great treat appeared. At the junction of paths, there was a pop-up café. A young man had created a café on a bike. He had a trailer with a gas-powered water boiler and storage for boxes of pre-prepared foods. There was a parasol, nice signs giving the menu, and seating was provided in the form of painted-up electric cable drums. Brilliant! It wasn’t long since I had partaken of the pot of tea, but it was nearly dinner time and this venture just <u>had</u> to be supported. I stopped and had another tea, and one of the best flapjacks I have ever tasted: lemon drizzle flapjack. Yum! Good decision to stop.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Suitably fortified I set off on what I knew was going to be the last lap of this journey. The surrounding countryside was a mixture of wildlife reserve and farming country. I saw a group of horses in one field, two of whom had their heads covered in fly masks. They looked very odd. A bit further along a farmer was cutting reeds that were growing across a field. I wondered if it had been a nesting habitat for some of the birds I had seen, and now the little ones had fledged, so it was safe for him to cut the reeds back. I continued to be one of very few walkers among lots of bikes. I don’t think I have ever seen so many bikes except when I went to Amsterdam!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Just before I got to the pick-up point I saw an odd fish-tail shaped sculpture which tugged at something buried in my memory. Looking at it more closely I saw it was dedicated to the Millennium Project, and something sponsored by the Royal Bank of Scotland. Dredging back, I associated this fish-tail shape with something in Scotland. Standing and puzzling for a while I sifted through memories, finally arriving at the TGO Challenge. But where and which year? That eluded me. I got down to the Deeside Way, which I used the year I damaged my knee. Most of that was also an old railway line which has been turned into a trail. Perhaps the bank had some involvement in that trail too. I would have to look back when I got home and find out what the link was.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The end point, where I was due to be collected, was a car park and visitor centre at Fremington, just outside Barnstaple. An old metal bridge is followed by the remains of the station buildings next to a quay where a number of people were fishing. The old station buildings have been turned into a café and bike hire centre. This explained the high volume of families out with cute little kiddy trailers and the weird dog trailers! There were lots of people in serious lycra at the café as well as lots of holidaymakers. I used the facilities (too much tea!) and found myself a picnic bench which had a view of the car entrance and settled down to wait, with mixed feelings, for my lift. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I decided that yes, I had enjoyed my fortnight. No, I did not like the constant up and down of the cliff paths. Yes, I loved being by the sea, particularly the sounds of the waves. No, being exposed to the Atlantic winds all the time is not pleasant. Yes, I love getting away from the crowds, and being able to live life at my own pace. No, I don’t like being on my own for too long, and sometimes I get lonely. Yes, I love wildcamping. No I don’t enjoy road walking. Yes, I wanted to get collected by my better half. Yes, I was ready to go home. Yes, I wanted a shower and to put on some perfume! </span><o:p></o:p></div>
Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17936841596623221054noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3855601948400120759.post-60161364797739657452018-06-03T04:53:00.000-07:002018-06-03T05:12:21.722-07:00The Great Outdoors Challenge, May 2018<div class="MsoNormal">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Crossing number seven</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With six previous crossings under my belt, I decided that this year I would take a route which was a weaving together of my favourite bits from previous years. As I love valley walking, Glen Afric is way up in my top 10 list, so I chose Shiel Bridge as my starting point. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Heavy snow as recently as Easter had curtailed my planned training walks in Scotland, and at the end of April I had nasty mist and sleet to contend with in the Lake District, so I did not altogether trust a long-range forecast suggesting a fine crossing. I packed wet weather gear and my microspikes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My journey north was uneventful, if very long. I had not been able to secure a bed for my last night, so had decided to wildcamp on the headland. It was lovely to pitch up as dusk drew in. I went to sleep to the calls of birds and water </span><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">gently </span><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">lapping close by.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Friday 11<sup>th</sup> May 2018 – day 1.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Waking up, excited, I could not wait to get going. I had breakfast and struck camp, heading for the sign-out point at the Kintail Lodge Hotel. I was first to arrive – too early! Leaving my pack in the lounge I went for a wander, including the obligatory toe in the water. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Eventually the sign-out list appeared, and I was off, taking the well-worn route up Gleann Lichd. There was a strong wind blowing, unusually from the east, which picked up as the morning wore on. By the time I got to Glenlicht House I was glad to tuck in beside the building to take shelter from this wind and to have a snack. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I love distance walking. However, I HATE climbing. It is a necessary evil in order to walk in the hills. From this point onwards I knew that I had to gird my loins and get stuck into the nasty stuff. It was going to be steep, and I had a full pack to carry.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">From Glenlicht house I crossed the bridges, looking down the little stream that has cut such a deep valley. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I ground my way up the steep path along the Allt Grannda to the valley head. The wind, seriously buffeting me, was by now impeding progress, and as I climbed rain threatened. From time to time I dug in my poles and leaned into the wind, just to remain steady in the wind. Although this path is through rather scenic territory, with pretty valley views and waterfalls, I did not pay it much attention on this visit. I was more concerned with staying on my feet. I am never the fastest walker, but today I seemed slower than ever. Topping-out, as I stopped for a breather the rain began, and the track to Camban Bothy became a trudge to make up time. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I popped into the bothy for a bit of relief from the weather, joining many other Challengers who were passing through, hiding from the weather or stopping for a chat. Conscious that I was behind schedule I kept my visit short, and soon was stretching my legs again, intent on making Alltbeithe youth hostel before too long. I have walked this stretch quite a few times, and love that first view of the place, with its wind-turbine, in the middle of nowhere. There was less wind here, and I fairly trotted the last section down to the river, although I was bone-weary after the battering I had taken from the wind earlier.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I was REALLY glad when the warden booked me in with no fuss, and I was able to quickly organise myself a meal, sort my gear for the morning and get my head down in the dorm.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Saturday 12<sup>th</sup> May 2018 – day 2.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Saturday morning brought my usual early start. I was surprised to learn that another Challenger had seriously injured himself falling down the steps to the dorm the previous evening, damaging an ankle and knee. Discussions ensued with various early risers and the warden about how he should proceed. As I left the hostel I understood that he was going to take the day to try to recover, staying an extra night at the hostel. I never heard whether he was able to carry on with his Challenge later.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After the rain on Friday I knew the normally boggy track out from the youth hostel would be unpleasant, so I made sure I remembered to put on my gaiters before making an early start setting out, even though it looked a nice morning. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There was hardly a cloud in the sky, and the wind had dropped. Quite soon I realised that it was going to be a very hot day, and my trusty Tilly hat was in service. By the time I got down to Athnamulloch the heat was beginning to get to me, and I felt like a second breakfast, so I found a lovely place to sit and dangle my feet in the river while I ate a snack. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Continuing on down the track beside the river between Athnamulloch and Loch Affric I went into geographer mode, looking at the depositional patterns...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">... and loving some of the things I saw, such as really clear layers of silt-deposition in the bank opposite me.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Trotting down the track I was loving being in Glen Affric again. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I knew I had made the right decision picking this as part of my route, despite the long distance I needed to cover in a day, especially in the heat. I bumped into various groups of Challengers. Some were old acquaintances, some new. A lot of people seemed to be aiming for an overnight stop in Cougie, but I was heading on to Cannich, so I said goodbye to many in the vicinity of the new hydro development at the Allt Garbh ‘junction’. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A mile or so further on was shocked out of my peace and quiet by the realisation that I was about to share a route with a cycle race. A marshall at a track junction told me that this was part of a duathlon race around Loch Beinna Mheadhoin and Carn Fiaclach, based on the car parks on the north of the glen. She said that for the next couple of kilometres I would need to watch out for cyclists. In actual fact, it was more like 6 or 7 kilometers. I entered into the spirit of the race, cheering them on as they zipped past. At one point a drone hovered overhead for a while, and I wondered if it was filming the race. Some of the cyclists were obviously suffering in the heat, especially those who were at the tail end. Eventually I saw a little gaggle of marshalls on bikes following up the back-markers, and things became peaceful again. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">By the time I got down to the carpark near the Dog Falls I was ready for a good rest. I sat for a while with my boots off in the shade of the trees and ate a good meal, summoning the energy to make that last push down to Cannich. From previous experience I knew this would be a hard stretch to do. I started counting paces, marking off the kilometres passing, and went into ‘blot-it-out’ mode. There was quite a lot of traffic, presumably associated with the race now being over. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Road-walking, especially at the end of a day, is never good, however, eventually I made it to the campsite. A nice young man booked me in and found my parcel. I pitched my Trailstar, ate and was soon asleep.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Sunday 13<sup>th</sup> May – day 3.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My feet were sore. There was no doubt about it. Yesterday the tracks and the heat had done damage. I could feel pressure-sores developing. Although I have had minor problems with my feet over the years, and worse trouble with knees, I have never had any serious trouble with my feet since my very first Challenge. I knew that today I would have to be VERY careful. I made an early start, determined to take breaks when I could, yet conscious that I was aiming to get onto the ferry across Loch Ness this evening rather than in the morning. I was working to a strict timeframe.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I always find the third day of a trek hard. The body screams ‘stop and let me rest’. The first part of the day, road walking along the A831, was not easy. All I wanted to do was curl up and sleep. I kept having to stop for short breaks. I remembered doing this section a few years ago on a Challenge and talking with a chap who had decided he would go as far as Drumnadrochit and pull out. At the time I couldn’t understand it. This morning, with my sore feet and huge desire to sleep I knew how he felt, however, I knew this would pass. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Pulling off the road at Kyleachorky, I found a bus shelter to sit in and rest. As I sat there, there was a sudden inundation of other Challengers. Happy banter lifted my spirits, and soon I was off again. Once more into the woodland, this section was much pleasanter. I was in two minds whether to stay on the forest track all the way down Glen Urquhart to Drumnadrochit, or whether to do the last section on the road. In the end I went for the road, as I didn’t need any shopping in the village itself, and the forest track would bring me out at the wrong end of Drumnadrochit for the ferry. The road, on the other hand, would come into the village at the right end to head straight up to Temple Pier.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">By the time I got into Drumnadrochit my feet were a mess. I was very footsore. Keeping going was hard work. I put one foot in front of another and plodded on to the ferry. Would I get there before it left? I wasn’t sure. I certainly was not intending to walk back into the village later. I decided that if the ferry had gone I would stay put until the next one ran across, whenever it would happen. Bivi if necessary.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My relief at seeing the boat was HUGE! People on board recognised me and shouted encouragement. I clambered on board and flopped into a seat, exhausted! It wasn’t even going out immediately. Gradually I came back to ‘normal’. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">By the time Gordon Menzies stepped on board I felt human again. I even enjoyed the trip across the loch with my fellow Challengers. We were all heading for the same stop overnight at Ault na goire.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The climb up the Pass of Inverfarigaig at the end of the day was hard. I knew that would be an unpleasant, steep climb. I put my head down and went into ‘grind’ mode, knowing that no matter how steep the pass was, the end was not far ahead. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The second big relief point of the day happened when I got to the Sutherland’s home at Ault na goire. A cup of tea never tasted so good!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Many people, far more articulate than I, have written about the hospitality of the Sutherlands. Suffice to say that they are kind, humorous, wonderful hosts, and have a little piece of quirky heaven at the top of that hill. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We set up camp in their back field, a small but happy band of fellow Challengers.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Despite the constant pain I was now in from my feet, I really enjoyed my stop-over with them, and thoroughly appreciated the good food from their kitchen.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Realising that my feet were beginning to cause me serious problems (and reflecting back on the problems I had during my first Challenge, when this last occurred) I knew I was going to have to lighten my load. I ruthlessly went through my pack, taking out things from the journey up such as a tidy top I wore and my Kindle, maps I had finished with, and borderline ‘will I need-its?’ such as my microspikes (brought with the Lairig Ghru in mind). I put as much as I thought I could get rid of into a carrier bag and left it with Janet for later retrieval.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Monday 14<sup>th</sup> May, Day 4.</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With my pack a bit lighter, and a huge breakfast in my belly, I set off on what I knew would be a fairly short day. Once again it was quite hot. It was my plan to take my time and be kind to myself, after three really strenuous days. I trundled through Errogie, once more being amused by the ‘library’ phone-box, and through Milton, turning off the road after crossing a bridge just past Aberarder House. I stopped to paddle and lunch just by the bridge, having a lovely break. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I could have stayed there all afternoon, but knew I had to climb up into the hills, so eventually I set off again.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After the steep climbs of the last few days, today did not seem so bad. Perhaps the gradient was a little less steep. Certainly, it was tolerable, and I was able to enjoy the view. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There was a fascinating set of ancient tree stumps in the peat layer by the track – and it was obviously the remnant of extensive woodland, as I could see root systems dangling out of the peat on the far side of the valley too. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My target for the day was a hut I had visited before. At the back of my mind was the question of whether or not it would be open. I was determined that if it was locked up I would camp nearby. I was not going to push on. I knew my body needed a short day and a long rest. Luckily the hut was open. I took advantage of the shelter it offered. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I used the table and benches to cook my meal, hung up clothes to air on various pegs, and when time came to settle down, made a sleeping platform from the bench-seats. Before darkness fell I took a little stroll to check out my route for the morning, in case mist came down overnight. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Tuesday 15<sup>th</sup> May – day 5.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I need not have worried. The morning was clear, with further promise of a nice day. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Determinedly avoiding the newly built stone track and sticking to my ‘walk a bearing’ across open ground I soon found my way down into Glen Mazeran.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Reaching the trackway at a bridge over a stream I stopped to paddle my blisters and to brew up a mug of tea. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Although my feet were sore, I was moving well, and had a very enjoyable morning. The sudden change from the wildness of the high hills to the pastoral focus of the glen was quite stunning. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Down in the valley I saw a huge herd of deer amongst the sheep. I was just wondering if they were being farmed when they took off, jumped across the stream and a fence and stopped half-way up the next hill, watching me carefully from a safe distance. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Following paths, bridges and a minor road I worked my way down the Findhorn as far as the Wester Strathnoon burn. From here I climbed again. I was in my stride now, and despite my feet I thoroughly enjoyed the afternoon, climbing up into the hills again.</span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iH0bmrx3MVA/WxOhr3m9JnI/AAAAAAAABAw/1jZteiuLc8YPC1QtTj-33xRlRVOgIGZTACEwYBhgL/s1600/P1020908.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iH0bmrx3MVA/WxOhr3m9JnI/AAAAAAAABAw/1jZteiuLc8YPC1QtTj-33xRlRVOgIGZTACEwYBhgL/s320/P1020908.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I followed the excellent track up onto Càrn Dubh ‘Ic an Deòir, stopping at a ‘lunch-hut’ for a snack and a rest. My objective was a cairn about a kilometre NE of the summit. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QoqavpoNfgE/WxOhtUg-FaI/AAAAAAAABA4/F1O1IrmEbXgQtAKC9uB3SUNVLWGLqx_vACEwYBhgL/s1600/P1020912.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QoqavpoNfgE/WxOhtUg-FaI/AAAAAAAABA4/F1O1IrmEbXgQtAKC9uB3SUNVLWGLqx_vACEwYBhgL/s320/P1020912.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LGktUIhhZg8/WxOiUn2SRkI/AAAAAAAABBM/xC623ZQG-VwMRaNrk5RuG47hgK-fAbiVACEwYBhgL/s1600/P1020913.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LGktUIhhZg8/WxOiUn2SRkI/AAAAAAAABBM/xC623ZQG-VwMRaNrk5RuG47hgK-fAbiVACEwYBhgL/s320/P1020913.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Reaching this point I checked the grid reference. I set off on a bearing aiming for the end of the track at Carn Thearlaich.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Here, I blew it! I spotted ‘the track’ and stopped following my compass. STUPID, <span style="font-size: large;">STUPID</span>, <span style="font-size: x-large;">STUPID! </span>When will I learn? By the time I realised what I had done, my bungling stupidity had taken me about a mile out of the way, to the wrong side of a range of evil peat hags and a series of fences. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Tired, dispirited, very, very cross with myself, I thanked my lucky stars that the weather was good and did what had to be done to get back on track. I checked my grid reference repeatedly, used my compass properly, and trod carefully for what seemed mile upon mile of nasty cacky ground. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Eventually I got myself onto the right trackway to head down to the Red Bothy. By now it was getting dark. I was shattered. I came upon another lunch-hut. It was full of mouse-eaten debris. The veranda was clean. I cooked and ate outside on the veranda and slept in its shelter.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Wednesday 16<sup>th</sup> May – day 6.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Rising early I left the lunch hut and dropped past the Red Bothy to cross the bridge on the river and start the long, long climb on the ‘Burma Road’. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3kwF7QeC3kY/WxOieagRaHI/AAAAAAAABBY/qZPiSmupZrwDgSQN4L2COdOo7teSRLJ4gCEwYBhgL/s1600/P1020916.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3kwF7QeC3kY/WxOieagRaHI/AAAAAAAABBY/qZPiSmupZrwDgSQN4L2COdOo7teSRLJ4gCEwYBhgL/s320/P1020916.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Although I have been that way before I was once again stunned by how it stands out on the hill. </span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZEYVvY6nrDo/WxOk9v7h1EI/AAAAAAAABBw/i4ON_0NTgmMCbC03Pz_2SfhHv7yeMkMLQCEwYBhgL/s1600/P1020918.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZEYVvY6nrDo/WxOk9v7h1EI/AAAAAAAABBw/i4ON_0NTgmMCbC03Pz_2SfhHv7yeMkMLQCEwYBhgL/s640/P1020918.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The climb is long but not too evil. I paced myself, stopping from time to time, including at a perfectly shaped rock which was obviously well frequented by walkers ...</span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R_SA-16bbWU/WxOlAD2fOMI/AAAAAAAABB0/XmU_SxBDOB8ol1eU5HxKDteK30AOwRMVgCEwYBhgL/s1600/P1020921.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R_SA-16bbWU/WxOlAD2fOMI/AAAAAAAABB0/XmU_SxBDOB8ol1eU5HxKDteK30AOwRMVgCEwYBhgL/s320/P1020921.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">... and took the opportunity to chat with other Challengers along the way. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Reaching the top, I celebrated and took a longer rest with my boots off, eating a good meal.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The trek downhill was a delight – the gradient just right for me to swing down using my poles for support. I sang to myself, happily, enjoying the sunshine. By the time I got down to the first trees that were casting shade I was ready for another break. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The whole descent was lovely until I reached the pollution of the A9, and frantic traffic noise.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For a short while I had to put up with so-called ‘civilisation’, cutting over to the old road to Aviemore, then turning up to Coylumbridge, and getting onto the old logging road as soon as possible. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Booking into the Rothiemurchus campsite I collected a resupply parcel. The campsite is a delight. It has one of the best shower blocks I know of. Suffice to say I enjoyed the use of the facilities, cooked a meal and settled quickly to sleep.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Thursday 17<sup>th</sup> May – day 7.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A big day ahead, I set off as soon as I was able.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I loved the walk through the woodland and out over the Caingorm Club footbridge. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It was hot from the very beginning of the day. The woodland was parched.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> I climbed through dense woodland which began to thin out with altitude.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Thinning trees gave way to open hillside. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Climbing on upwards, although the main river was running, all the side streams were dry. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I began to be concerned about having enough water to drink for the day, as to cut down on weight I had been carrying very little since Ault na goire, relying on using my filter bottle on a regular basis. (Following an unpleasant episode several years ago I rarely drink directly from streams any more, usually filtering my water, sometimes using purification tablets) <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Eventually, as I climbed further and further, small trickles of water appeared, and I finally got to a small side stream that was flowing comfortably. Pleased, I stopped and filled up my filter, mixing up an electrolyte drink as I was already hot and sweaty.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Leaving Rothiemurchus behind, the unmistakable shape of the Lairig Ghru appeared. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The path continued to climb encountering patches of late-lying snow. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I was fascinated to look closely at the remnants of snow, to see how streams emerged from below and particularly to see how it was thawing in relation to rocks which were obviously warming up a lot.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I passed the memorial to Angus Sinclair. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In places the path became very rough, and in some places it crossed the snowfields. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I kicked steps in a number of places, but did not miss my microspikes at all. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My sore feet made me feel very unstable. I had particular difficulty crossing the boulderfields. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This became a tortuous progress. I don’t remember it being so difficult when I have been through the Lairig Ghru before, so I must put this down to the state my feet were in. The big impression I have of this section of the day is of short lengths of path running into boulderfields and me not having a clue where the path exited the boulders.</span><br />
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On one occasion I got particularly cross when I followed a set of cairns into the middle of a boulderfield, only to hear something off to my left and realise there were people walking on a path there. How did that happen? <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I got too tired, compounded by too sore. I suppose I should have stopped for a proper break, but I was conscious of moving slowly and getting behind schedule – so I filled up on painkillers and kept going. That was probably a mistake. I ground on, eventually getting to the Pools of Dee and beyond. I <b><span style="font-size: large;">SO</span></b> wanted the boulderfields to end.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Eventually, I had to stop. Even though I was now on the ‘downhill’ stretch, I was crawling slowly over the ground. I began to realise that my objective for the day, Derry Lodge, was not achievable. I decided to aim for the ford below Luibeg bridge. If I could get there, then the next day would not be too long to manage. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My memory of the evening is a fog of pain. One foot in front of another. I have few distinct recollections other than tracking the majestic shape of the Devil’s Point first towards me, alongside me and then past. Dusk was falling as I headed along the last kilometres to Luibeg. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lrdPbOx9EQ4/WxOuZdf436I/AAAAAAAABFk/iNW3OV2BMy0cod96ORbn5yl7kLDKLUUVwCEwYBhgL/s1600/P1020991.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lrdPbOx9EQ4/WxOuZdf436I/AAAAAAAABFk/iNW3OV2BMy0cod96ORbn5yl7kLDKLUUVwCEwYBhgL/s320/P1020991.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I got to the ford as darkness was closing in. I didn’t stop to think, just took myself across the boulders, hoping that I would keep to my feet and not fill my boots. Luck stayed with me. Getting to the other side I scrounged round for somewhere to pitch.</span><br />
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The Trailstar has a notoriously big footprint – but tonight I managed an ‘alternative’ pitch for the pentagonal tarp on only four pegs, with an overlap. The central pole was at an angle of about 60°. There was no door – I crawled under one of the edges. However, it stayed up and gave me shelter. I ate cold food and collapsed into my bed.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Friday 18<sup>th</sup> May – day 8<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Waking in the early dawn light I realised I was camped on sand. The gritty surface had no stability. I wriggled out of my Trailstar, realising the tarp was frozen solid. I made a quick decision. It was too cold to linger, so I ate a couple of oatcakes and packed up quickly. Breakfast could wait till things got warmer!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">By the time I got down to Derry Lodge, the sun had risen above the hills and things were warming up. I crossed the new bridge and found a patch of sunshine at the foot of the big trees. I set up my stove on the concrete bridge supports, and brewed up. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Breakfast followed. What a delight! I really enjoyed sitting by the river in the sunshine. By the time I had eaten I felt quite restored, the difficulties of the previous day gone. My feet still hurt, but without the insecurity of constant teetering from rock to rock the tension I had felt had gone and I felt quite good in myself. I set off down the valley for Mar Lodge.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The track down Glen Lui is beautiful. I thoroughly enjoyed this stretch of the day and was in high spirits by the time I got to Mar Lodge. A couple of cups of tea later I was back on my way, stopping for lunch on a bench at a carpark looking out over the meanders of the Dee. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Arriving in Braemar was celebrated with tea and cake, and soon I was in my hotel and the sheer luxury of a bath. Heaven!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With a rest day planned for tomorrow, my husband was coming up to Braemar after work. Knowing it would be hours before his journey ended I crawled into bed to sleep for a while in a vain attempt to become vaguely human before he arrived.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Saturday 19<sup>th</sup> May – day 9<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With feet that were barely functioning at least I could spend the day in sandals, rather than boots. I discovered that I could remove the heel straps from my sandals, re-routing the straps and velcro away from sore bits of foot. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We went on a road-trip to recover the bag of belongings stashed at Ault na goire.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The remainder of the day was spent catching up with other Challengers and eating some very nice food.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Sunday 20<sup>th</sup> May – day 10<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It is unusual for me to have a cooked breakfast, but on this occasion, I ate my fill at the hotel before saying goodbye to my husband and setting off once again. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">On the way out of Braemar I was lucky to meet up with Emma and Louise, Challenger friends.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> I spent the first part of the day in their company heading into the heart of the Balmoral estate. We had a hilarious time, and I realised that on this Challenge I have been walking solo nearly all of the time. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There is something very special about the fabulous woodland on the estate.</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span><br />
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We stopped for a break near Connachat Cottage. It was a bit chilly, but I was determined to get my boots off and air my blisters.</span><br />
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The others were heading off in a different direction from me, so we parted after resting near the cottage, and I headed up the track south-south easterly high above Gelder Shiel and past Little Conachcraig. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The wind grew stronger and stronger as I climbed out of the woodland, and once on the exposed slopes it became very troublesome. To begin with it was blowing on my right shoulder, so at least it was pushing me into the slope, but as I continued to climb it veered to head on, and I had to fight for every step forwards that I took, sometimes having to dig my poles in and just stand bent into the wind in order to stay on my feet. This was very sapping. Occasionally I found large rocks to duck behind for a rest. At least it was dry. The windchill was bad, however, and I put my waterproofs on as an extra layer of protection.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Back in 2013 I had done this route, detouring to Gelder Shiel. I had an unfortunate experience with a bee sting, and had not been well as I climbed, so on this Challenge I wanted to take this route again in order to be able to better enjoy the view across to Lochnagar. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> I certainly was able to see the mighty mountain in all its glory but did not have much spare brain-power to enjoy the sight as I fought to remain on my feet! <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The strength of the wind increased as I climbed and climbed, and I did wonder about my safety. I went into risk-assessment mode. There was no sign of rain and I could drop down behind rocks periodically for a rest when things got too difficult. Although I was using far more energy than I usually would just to stay on my feet, I had plenty of snacks to keep me going. In the end I decided that so long as I was in no immediate danger of being thrown off the path by the wind, I would be OK. I kept churning upwards. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Reaching the summit of the path and turning east took me out of the full force of the wind. The relief was immense. Finding a small quarry alongside the path which was completely out of the wind I stopped for a proper break. However, it was not a very nice place to be, as there was a lot of unpleasant litter stuffed into various crevices, and I quickly changed my mind about lingering. It makes me angry that people do not carry out their litter. I make a point of taking every scrap with me until I find a proper bin to dispose of things, even if I end up with several days of rubbish stashed before I find one.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The ascent had been up a well-maintained track. The descent was, unfortunately, down a very rough, dangerously eroded, loose surface. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> Tired from my battle with the wind it was a difficult couple of kilometres, picking my way carefully down the steep route, avoiding falling. I was very glad to get down to the valley. I saw a few people taking shelter in the trees but pushed on across the open ground to Spittal of Glenmuick. I knew from my 2013 Challenge that there were some places I could stealth camp high up the Allt Darrarie. Tiredly I climbed again, glad that here the wind was not too strong.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The day had taken a lot out of me. I pitched camp on a little patch of grass beside the river, made sure I ate well and dropped into a deep sleep.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Monday 21<sup>st</sup> May – day 11<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I woke early. After the challenges of Sunday, the dawn hinted at a beautiful day. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Soon I had eaten breakfast and struck camp. I continued climbing up the tight little valley,</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> and was just sorting myself out to walk a bearing to the bothy at Sheilin of Mark when I was gobsmacked to see an eagle soaring above me. I forgot all about my camera as I watched it soaring for several minutes, before it headed off away from me.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With that in my head I set up my bearing and crossed country. I found the bothy and stopped for a break outside, chatting to other Challengers. My recollection of the bothy was of a dark, damp place. On this sunny morning it was not so bad, however I think I would not chose to stay here unless the weather was vile.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Pressing on, I was surprised how low the water was, and how ‘dry’ the peat hags were. I remember this as a boggy place, but today I had no trouble moving across country, and soon was up on the top at Muckle Cairn.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> I took time-out exploring the curious structure. I wondered if it had been some kind of look-out point, as it commands such a great view of the surrounding land.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Dropping down the hill, which was very steep in places, I soon passed the Stables of Lee and got into Glen Lee itself. It was hot. Very hot and dry. The track along the glen is well made, and I trotted along happily, enjoying the view. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I set myself a target to reach the head of the loch, and then to have a good break looking across the waters. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My feet were in a pretty bad state, and it was hard getting my boots back on. I filled up on pain-killers again.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">From here I was on familiar ground, having come through Invermark on the way to Tarfside a number of times on past Challenges. Once again, I was struck by the sudden change from the wild hillside to neatly bound pastoral land, which had caught my attention in Glen Mazaran. This last part of the day was not difficult – but it was painful. One foot in front of another. Plod on. Plod on.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The team at St Drostans in Tarfside are heroes. They look after Challengers with such care and gentle humour. I love the atmosphere with Challengers sharing tales and helping each other. I was lucky to get a bed in the hostel, so after eating and having a very nice shower I soon tucked myself up for the night.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Tuesday 22<sup>nd</sup> May – day 12<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Although I had planned to have an early start, as I knew this would be a long day, somehow this did not happen. There is no easy way to walk to Edzell. It is a long road-walk, and I had nothing left in the tank to head for the hills. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> I recognised the signs of exhaustion setting in. Coupled with my poorly feet, I knew not to push myself too hard. I succumbed to a bacon sandwich from St Drostan’s kitchen, which I stashed for a second breakfast on the road.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I set myself into trundle mode and headed off down the valley. I simply walked in stages. When I felt the need to stop, I stopped. I had a break by the river. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I had another break in woodland soon after finding this amazing folly.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In previous years I have called into Edzell to eat at the Tuck Inn and to buy things at the shop. This year I realised that I had sufficient food for the day, so did not need to shop and had no desire to sit in a noisy if pleasant café socialising. Because I had been taking breaks to ease my feet I had been covering ground even more slowly today. I decided to bypass the village, stay on the riverbank and head straight for the campsite at Northwater Bridge.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A cold wind was blowing across the campsite when I arrived. Quite a few Challengers were already pitched up, with most ensconced in their tents, keeping warm. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-omieuHiIwSs/WxOzbmiAbRI/AAAAAAAABIY/IHz6ljW_uNQwP1QOeT0P0kpqgxmy0kb2wCEwYBhgL/s1600/P1030038.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-omieuHiIwSs/WxOzbmiAbRI/AAAAAAAABIY/IHz6ljW_uNQwP1QOeT0P0kpqgxmy0kb2wCEwYBhgL/s320/P1030038.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> There was some of the usual gear-geeking going on, people swapping tales and so on, but it was too cold for much of that. I got myself sorted out, ate and cleared up, then slept.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Wednesday 23<sup>rd</sup> May – day 13<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Today would be my last day. I would reach the coast. My objective was Johnshaven. I was not going to do as in previous years, dash for the coast and then head to Montrose stratight away to sign out as soon as possible. I would savour the end. Setting off, I had made no firm decisions about exactly what form that end would take. I was determined to just let the day evolve. I might stay in Johnshaven. I might travel to Montrose having finished.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I have walked as far as Marykirk and the Den of Morphie before. I climbed the hill beyond, turning off up the hill and through the impressive gateway up onto the Hill of Morphie. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The route was through lovely farmland. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I kept to a set of farm roads and minor roads that roughly paralleled the main coast road. There was almost no traffic once the school run was over.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Once again it was a fine day. Before long I could see the sea in the distance, and suddenly the familiar sight of the spire of the church at St Cyrus came into view.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Getting to Lauriston I had no choice but to take the B9120 down the hill towards the main road. Initially I had thought I could walk a short distance along the coast road and back up onto minor roads, to take me the last of the way to Johnshaven. Reaching the junction and seeing the heavy traffic hurtling by made me reconsider. <u>No way</u> was I going to walk up that road, even for less than a kilometre. The obvious solution was to carry on straight down the hill towards the coast. A campsite was noted on the map. I would hit the coast there and see what the site was like. In the spirit of seeing how the day would evolve, I crossed the main road, to see what I would find.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">And what I found was a treasure. The people running the campsite were helpful and friendly. Facilities were excellent, and best of all, the campsite was right by the beach. I couldn’t ask for more!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QrXYN7iE-lg/WxOzmdgYM2I/AAAAAAAABIg/KTkFT-RYcXU2N8ANDtgQsLBOrwub5DrvgCEwYBhgL/s1600/P1030071.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="284" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QrXYN7iE-lg/WxOzmdgYM2I/AAAAAAAABIg/KTkFT-RYcXU2N8ANDtgQsLBOrwub5DrvgCEwYBhgL/s640/P1030071.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I set up my Trailstar. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> With somewhere to leave my pack I headed off to play on the beach!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3d91RODBWHI/WxO0H6l4h3I/AAAAAAAABI4/eI7zLt6AL4UafLc0nO0IbC4VRxlK4KyCACEwYBhgL/s1600/P1030057.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3d91RODBWHI/WxO0H6l4h3I/AAAAAAAABI4/eI7zLt6AL4UafLc0nO0IbC4VRxlK4KyCACEwYBhgL/s640/P1030057.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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I rang home. I ate icecream. I borrowed a deckchair and a book to read. I boiled eggs laid by chickens running around the site. I lazed away the afternoon. I lazed away the evening. I fell asleep listening to seagulls and the waves on the shore.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Thursday 24<sup>th</sup> May – day 14<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The end of a Challenge is a strange thing. There is excitement comingled with sadness. For so many months your brain has been focused on how to achieve such a major undertaking. Route planning. Gear. Physical preparations. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The physical demands once the Challenge begins push you to the limit. Mentally you are both detached (from your day to day life) and hyper-focused (on route making decisions and safety). Challengers have a common experience of these things. They ‘get’ what is involved, and this common experience binds them together into a community. People meet and share and move on, then pick up again at a later meeting, sometimes years after, as if no break had happened.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It was with regret that I packed up for the last time, yet also with excitement. I knew I was about to dive headlong into the maelstrom of the end of the Challenge: signing out at Challenge Control, spending hours chatting to other Challengers and above all the celebration of the Challenge Dinner.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I carried my pack up to the road and idled away time until a bus rolled up. It was no surprise to find it already carrying Challengers who were heading, like me, into Montrose, and no surprise that the closer we got, the more Challengers stepped on board. Getting off the bus, I had none of the confusion evident in some about where to find the Park Hotel. There are some benefits to having completed seven Challenges!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It was lovely to come into Challenge Control and feel I was meeting old friends. I knew almost everyone there. I was given a mug of tea, went through the rituals and received my goodies. I suspect that a silly grin was on my face and that I talked too much, but that is the nature of these things.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There are lots of places to stay in Montrose, but for the last several crossings I have chosen to stay in the heart of things, at the Park Hotel. It is comfortable, the staff are superb, and it is both easy to get out into the bustle of the celebrations and to retreat to my room when things get too much for me. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I spent the rest of the day catching up with other Challengers and getting ready for the dinner. I have established a personal routine which is to go shopping for nail varnish to match the official finisher’s t-shirt, then to do my nails for the dinner. This year the t-shirt was royal blue, so my nails were blue with a silver top-coat of sparkles. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The evening sped by in a haze of celebration </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-daWNnzOHAPc/WxO0K6geOvI/AAAAAAAABI8/2XSVxUaGKPccQ4ox6PWjcnnCugOHBuevgCEwYBhgL/s1600/P1030075.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-daWNnzOHAPc/WxO0K6geOvI/AAAAAAAABI8/2XSVxUaGKPccQ4ox6PWjcnnCugOHBuevgCEwYBhgL/s320/P1030075.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">and was crowned by entertainment provided by some talented Challengers. Where they found the energy to sing and play at the end of their Challenge I don’t know. Hats off to them!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Friday 25<sup>th</sup> May - aftermath<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The ritual continued into the next day with breakfasting Challengers, the trail across town to the station and the collective huddle to await the train.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Sitting on the train suddenly the bubble burst. As the miles from Montrose increased it dawned on me that the Challenge is over for another year and that I must revert to that other persona which has been on hold for a fortnight, the one which is seen for the other 50 weeks of the year. Family, work, responsibilities crowded back into my mind. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">If it hadn’t been for the suntan on my hands, with the white stripe when my pole-straps had been, and the pain from my blisters it might have been easy to wonder if it had been a dream. But no. They kept me grounded in reality as I sorted out the conundrums thrown up by the transport system. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">And at the back of my brain.... little whispers were alight. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Where will I go next year? What ideas have I picked up from other Challengers? How could I string them together into a route? And what shall I avoid?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Challenge fever does not pass. It ebbs and flows. </span></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17936841596623221054noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3855601948400120759.post-63054019237238266282017-06-03T13:17:00.002-07:002017-06-03T13:17:44.938-07:00TGOC Challenge 2017, Oban to Montrose via Aberfeldy<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 20.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">TGOC2017<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Choosing a start-point for my route this year I decided to
go to the south of the Challenge area and start in Oban. I thought it would be
good to explore an area which, although I have driven through it on family
holidays, I have never walked there. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ron accompanied me to the start, and we arrived in Oban late
on the Thursday evening. A quick stroll along the prom led to us bumping into a
few Challengers – but I was surprised by how few I saw. On reflection, this is
probably because they were camouflaged in amongst the wider population. On my
previous crossings I have been to little places – and the swell caused by
Challengers is immediately obvious. In Oban there were just too many tourists,
so apart from a small handful of known faces, Challengers blended in. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ntJg_O3uBtY/WTL4okHpobI/AAAAAAAAA4A/ya-zViPpkB4LJ6dp7eizHzCYUyfiEPqMgCEw/s1600/P1020136.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ntJg_O3uBtY/WTL4okHpobI/AAAAAAAAA4A/ya-zViPpkB4LJ6dp7eizHzCYUyfiEPqMgCEw/s320/P1020136.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Friday 12<sup>th</sup>
May 2017<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">15½ miles<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Signing out from the youth hostel I crossed the road along
the prom, dropped down a set of steps which were handily placed there and
dipped into the sea. Ron took pictures, then I headed off out of town. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ca4FIhCdEqQ/WTL5HILng6I/AAAAAAAAA4E/sE-SzqXegdAr0Ll31J0cXX17RSV0MYUzACEw/s1600/P1020141.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ca4FIhCdEqQ/WTL5HILng6I/AAAAAAAAA4E/sE-SzqXegdAr0Ll31J0cXX17RSV0MYUzACEw/s320/P1020141.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FeeCs5THvnQ/WTL5LwoPpMI/AAAAAAAAA4I/mLvBU821HBc69DRcRACGsajHojQJtIAfgCEw/s1600/P1020147.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FeeCs5THvnQ/WTL5LwoPpMI/AAAAAAAAA4I/mLvBU821HBc69DRcRACGsajHojQJtIAfgCEw/s320/P1020147.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The first part of the day saw me climb the minor road up
Glen Lonan. Pretty, but nothing remarkable. As the day wore on I realised how
dry the land was. Streams were down to trickles, or dried up completely. It
wasn’t much more than three weeks since I had been a bit further north on the
Cape Wrath Trail, where I had been contending with rivers too swollen to cross,
and had been flooded out of my camp one
evening. Obviously this area of Scotland was currently in the grip of a
drought.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bEJ6wEkXd4w/WTL5YOP_s6I/AAAAAAAAA4M/ZFD-6H9WBNY-Vqbvve0iSpSFdV7Z86EWQCEw/s1600/P1020148.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bEJ6wEkXd4w/WTL5YOP_s6I/AAAAAAAAA4M/ZFD-6H9WBNY-Vqbvve0iSpSFdV7Z86EWQCEw/s320/P1020148.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was not possible to collect water in my filter bottle –
so I was a bit concerned, but in Taynuilt luckily caught a tea-room open (about
five minutes before their closing time) where I was able to refresh myself and
buy a bottle of water.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I found my way through Bonawe and crossed the first wobbly
bridge of the Challenge then climbed up through the country Park above Inverawe
House. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iheETPid17w/WTL5hCr9ULI/AAAAAAAAA4Q/f96fmFpdkmkohyrZwEOCdT5WJneRrjd5gCEw/s1600/P1020149.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iheETPid17w/WTL5hCr9ULI/AAAAAAAAA4Q/f96fmFpdkmkohyrZwEOCdT5WJneRrjd5gCEw/s320/P1020149.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was intrigued to see what looked like the top of an
ancient tank peeking out from a patch of boggy ground. It looks like someone
has a rope ladder in place to get in and out – but I didn’t feel like
exploring. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-htJp03iGXyg/WTL6EZWUChI/AAAAAAAAA4Y/Nzo5zjGVNHoUmMV9eNFcMi_oe0WOpGvYgCEw/s1600/P1020150.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-htJp03iGXyg/WTL6EZWUChI/AAAAAAAAA4Y/Nzo5zjGVNHoUmMV9eNFcMi_oe0WOpGvYgCEw/s320/P1020150.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By now I had got to that point in the day where I was
beginning to wonder about where to camp. It was fine, and warm, with quite a
stiff breeze. Although a bit tired and achy, I felt I could still walk for
miles, so headed on north-east along the track through the woods, high above
Loch Etive. I saw a couple of Challenger tents tucked down a side path, but
didn’t stop to chat. I was looking for two things: water, and a nice place to
pitch. If I could find both in the same location I would be delighted.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BbvdfQwKLhI/WTL6EFM4ByI/AAAAAAAAA4U/2-iD6Mss7yk38yEG3bUbGmLmmmP1WW0ugCEw/s1600/P1020151.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BbvdfQwKLhI/WTL6EFM4ByI/AAAAAAAAA4U/2-iD6Mss7yk38yEG3bUbGmLmmmP1WW0ugCEw/s320/P1020151.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Some of the trees had been cleared and there was the
inevitable mess left behind. I didn’t want to camp near these ravaged
moonscapes – kept pushing on. My last water ran out, and I started to feel hot
and bothered, cross with the world. I lost height, and was approaching the loch
– but realised it would be salt water. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E4WptnXnX00/WTL6tNWEzlI/AAAAAAAAA4g/BP0hrtQE17kwqzfzgmdCvRt1DCtTYLemgCEw/s1600/P1020154.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E4WptnXnX00/WTL6tNWEzlI/AAAAAAAAA4g/BP0hrtQE17kwqzfzgmdCvRt1DCtTYLemgCEw/s320/P1020154.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Suddenly I heard the trickle of water. I followed my ears
and found a miraculous pool, the deep point in a stream-bed. The water was
still running under the stones, and running fast enough for me to have
confidence in it. Out came my filter-bottle, I plunged it into the pool, then
drank deeply! Looking around I realised that the stream should run under a
little bridge in the track and beside it there was a perfect lochside pitch for
me. Without further ado I pitched for the night.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t-1qrj5KEkk/WTL6sIopEtI/AAAAAAAAA4c/Q9c3mTJgx_YSwvwbHoSIYPEB732MoQ1LQCEw/s1600/P1020158.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t-1qrj5KEkk/WTL6sIopEtI/AAAAAAAAA4c/Q9c3mTJgx_YSwvwbHoSIYPEB732MoQ1LQCEw/s320/P1020158.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Saturday 13<sup>th</sup>
May 2017<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">16½ miles<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I had gone to bed last night without any though of midges.
There was a stiff breeze blowing at the lochside and there was no sign of the
menace. However, by 4am the breeze had dropped and I woke up being bitten
viciously. I scrabbled for the Jungle Formula and my headnet, made a hasty
breakfast and quickly set off on my way.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-210SxUl63v0/WTL7jmH6ZQI/AAAAAAAAA4s/XC856LqI8BI4HkHe4iRcCPRYIhLe4PyLQCEw/s1600/P1020160.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-210SxUl63v0/WTL7jmH6ZQI/AAAAAAAAA4s/XC856LqI8BI4HkHe4iRcCPRYIhLe4PyLQCEw/s320/P1020160.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">All around the drought was in full swing – nowhere more
obvious than at this ford where the water was running <u>under</u> the concrete
roadway itself – never mind the bridge for times of flood!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4kaa7z2STVU/WTL7jHJ9M-I/AAAAAAAAA4k/tQ9_wdiXFKkEIyLKWQ1hHf-97uWJSGhSgCEw/s1600/P1020162.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4kaa7z2STVU/WTL7jHJ9M-I/AAAAAAAAA4k/tQ9_wdiXFKkEIyLKWQ1hHf-97uWJSGhSgCEw/s320/P1020162.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My impression of the morning is rather blurred. Tracks above
and around the headlands, and views across Loch Etive, with warning signs in
the sky that the weather was on the change.
I was surprised by the number of bluebells I saw. In previous years I
was conscious of primroses and violets on the first days of the Challenge, and
did not see bluebells until I got over to the area near Tarfside. Perhaps it
was an early spring – or more likely the fact that I was walking further south,
but bluebells were in abundance.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S41OIkn6cVw/WTL7jE4H5cI/AAAAAAAAA4o/3UpLVpSoniwQDIzfB7FQ4o13gH33QWKgQCEw/s1600/P1020163.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S41OIkn6cVw/WTL7jE4H5cI/AAAAAAAAA4o/3UpLVpSoniwQDIzfB7FQ4o13gH33QWKgQCEw/s320/P1020163.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Whenever I got under trees the midges got biting. I saw a
few Challengers, but was not in the mood for chatter.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I got very excited when I saw a slow-worm beside the
track I had seen adders many times, but
this is the first time I had seen a live slow-worm.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z6iHhLab2c4/WTL8DPdwZUI/AAAAAAAAA4w/TpY2CxZb_AgD5W2Cpuxs2I6UE-cAvD8fACEw/s1600/P1020164.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z6iHhLab2c4/WTL8DPdwZUI/AAAAAAAAA4w/TpY2CxZb_AgD5W2Cpuxs2I6UE-cAvD8fACEw/s320/P1020164.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Glen Kinglass was impressive. As I walked up the glen the
change in the weather became much more apparent, with a ferocious wind. I found
a lovely quiet spot behind a bridge abutment to have my lunch and air my feet,
then pressed on.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The inevitable rain arrived, and I wrapped myself up and
trudged on. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My plan had been to camp in the upper reaches of the valley,
but the reality of the weather was that it was mightily exposed, and I just
didn’t fancy pitching anywhere. I had
made good time during the day, so decided to go over the watershed and seek
somewhere near Loch Dochard. I crossed another wobbly bridge …<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dlWcWE05x4U/WTL8Do1q-NI/AAAAAAAAA40/H3ze0DP1_Kc7B-FiMzF0qJx-SC8J8zfuwCEw/s1600/P1020165.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dlWcWE05x4U/WTL8Do1q-NI/AAAAAAAAA40/H3ze0DP1_Kc7B-FiMzF0qJx-SC8J8zfuwCEw/s320/P1020165.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">… and pressed on.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Loch Dochard was just as inviting as upper Glen Kinglass.
The wind was strong, cloud was low, and all I wanted was to find some shelter.
I walked on. Eventually I dropped down to the crossing of the Allt Suil na
Curra, and in the trees there found relief from the wind, and a little pod of
Challengers. Too tired to do much more than say hello I got my Trailstar up,
ate and went to sleep. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sunday 14<sup>th</sup>
May 2017<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">11 miles<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After two long days I slept hard, and by the time I woke up
(rather late) on the third morning the other Challengers had gone. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Just before the location where I pitched camp in the trees
was a bridge across the main river. Another crossing was marked just
downstream, so rather than back-track I went for the lower one. Mistake! It
turned out to be a ford with huge boulders to use as stepping stones. I HATE
these! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AaOwGMiej1o/WTL8sii3K4I/AAAAAAAAA48/BaTbr7Pvx6sIwQCzTNaPCt27QyK2riyugCEw/s1600/P1020166.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AaOwGMiej1o/WTL8sii3K4I/AAAAAAAAA48/BaTbr7Pvx6sIwQCzTNaPCt27QyK2riyugCEw/s320/P1020166.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Luckily the water was low, so for most of the way I was able
to cross in the water, just clambering up for a short deep section. If there
had been much water in the river I would have had to use the boulders – and
some of them were a wide stretch apart for someone carrying a heavy rucsac. I
must remember that if I ever come this way again it would be better to use the
bridge higher up the valley!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The rain came and went, and contributed to rather muddy
paths down the riverside. I was in good spirits however, having slept well, and
heading towards a short section of familiar ground from Victoria Bridge.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Arriving at Forest Lodge someone had a parasol up beside a
Range Rover, and cheekily I asked the people there if there was some kind of
celebration going on. They replied no, that it was a way station for a sponsored
walk from Kingshouse to Tyndrum. I got chatting to the people, who turned out
to be from Renfrew Rotary Club., walking to raise funds for the STOP Polio
programme.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://www.cdc.gov/globalhealth/immunization/stop/index.htm">https://www.cdc.gov/globalhealth/immunization/stop/index.htm</a>
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was very interested (as my Dad had been affected by polio
as a boy) and gave them a donation. Kindly, they gave me a cup of tea and some
‘dumpling’ – a type of heavy fruit cake. I took a photo of this kindly group.
Just as I set off again David and Margaret Brocklehurst turned up and they were
being offered refreshments too.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ncxUripTI68/WTL8sj-PutI/AAAAAAAAA44/uKtMFJ8KA64XALfXkIrzRqO6D_ECQPKHQCEw/s1600/P1020167.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ncxUripTI68/WTL8sj-PutI/AAAAAAAAA44/uKtMFJ8KA64XALfXkIrzRqO6D_ECQPKHQCEw/s320/P1020167.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I wimped out and had a happy trundle down the road from
Inveroran Hotel to Bridge of Orchy, rather than going over the hill. It
was noticeable how low the water was in
Loch Tulla.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ngm872nvpRI/WTL9nYVVn9I/AAAAAAAAA5E/YxCBA12gybAOnsKLc5gccJdHc0_pSB52gCEw/s1600/P1020168.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ngm872nvpRI/WTL9nYVVn9I/AAAAAAAAA5E/YxCBA12gybAOnsKLc5gccJdHc0_pSB52gCEw/s320/P1020168.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I stopped to chat to a chap who was doing a water fowl
count. He makes a count from a number of positions around Loch Tulla on a
monthly basis, and sends the data off to one of the national organisations. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">At Bridge of Orchy I called in for a lovely meal and picked
up a resupply parcel.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Well fortified, I followed the West Highland Way southwards
for a short distance. With a full tummy and a full load, as a result of my
recently acquired parcel I wondered if this sign was applicable as I approached
on of the old bridges….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-opCDzd0muDM/WTL9odGYsnI/AAAAAAAAA5I/fB1hbmqQGmAl_7UpN4VCdovWKldikHSmgCEw/s1600/P1020169.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-opCDzd0muDM/WTL9odGYsnI/AAAAAAAAA5I/fB1hbmqQGmAl_7UpN4VCdovWKldikHSmgCEw/s320/P1020169.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My objective for the day was the railway viaduct across
Gleann Achadh-innis Chailein. Soon it came into view. At the back of my brain
was the ‘will I be able to collect water’ worry, because even though it had
rained, it was obvious that the streams were not yet replenished, as there were
lots of dry rivulets beside the path.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6ouzjCO1dz8/WTL9mKPdTSI/AAAAAAAAA5A/rflZKKSmvpwIhD-zTAWLS67YPDEOnGzmwCEw/s1600/P1020171.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6ouzjCO1dz8/WTL9mKPdTSI/AAAAAAAAA5A/rflZKKSmvpwIhD-zTAWLS67YPDEOnGzmwCEw/s320/P1020171.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I knew the main river in the valley was running, so I ought
to be able to gather water from there if necessary. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zaAFr1nNFIc/WTL-MCeR_gI/AAAAAAAAA5Q/hfACKSF3Og8Ku-fa-Wda3QrRyWCu4uKYQCEw/s1600/P1020172.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zaAFr1nNFIc/WTL-MCeR_gI/AAAAAAAAA5Q/hfACKSF3Og8Ku-fa-Wda3QrRyWCu4uKYQCEw/s320/P1020172.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Despite having an easy day with lots of stops, plenty to eat
and drink. I was feeling weary, so reaching the viaduct, and finding a neat
little stream close to had I quickly pitched right underneath! When I bought my Trailstar I went for a
colour that would NOT stand out on the hill. This photo shows just how well it
blends in against the stone of the viaduct.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The rain had ceased, but once again there was a mighty wind
blowing, and I hoped that it would not
change direction during the night. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5dyfyxj_s9s/WTL-tSjvM6I/AAAAAAAAA5U/Db1qVExycPIesQY5Iko3qoyKMTFcPeJ0gCEw/s1600/P1020175.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5dyfyxj_s9s/WTL-tSjvM6I/AAAAAAAAA5U/Db1qVExycPIesQY5Iko3qoyKMTFcPeJ0gCEw/s320/P1020175.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Monday 15<sup>th</sup>
May 2017<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">14½ miles<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Today looked like it would be an ‘interesting’ day from the
map. I would walk up the valley to its head, then through the pass at Srath
Tarabhan into Glen Lyon. It was my plan to walk the south shore of the loch
then see how far I could go beyond the dam at Lubreoch.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As I set off the wind, which had been strong all night,
continued blowing. Luckily it was behind me, blowing me uphill. Squalls blew
through, and soon I was being reminded of the difficult days I had experienced
in April on the Cape Wrath Trail.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I took brief respite from the weather in a sheep-shearing
shed at Ais-an t-Sithean before pressing on into the gale. I thought it was a
sad reflection on the economy of farming that there were a large number of last
year’s fleeces abandoned in the shed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6IYe8SoJfkQ/WTMBIQGoTzI/AAAAAAAAA5Y/BTMUusfjLZk_dsf7U_RZEhuocCX6IQS1QCLcB/s1600/P1020178.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6IYe8SoJfkQ/WTMBIQGoTzI/AAAAAAAAA5Y/BTMUusfjLZk_dsf7U_RZEhuocCX6IQS1QCLcB/s320/P1020178.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As the valley turned from a north-easterly direction to
easterly the wind changed, now full in my face. The previous help it had been
now was a serious hindrance, with gusts threatening to bowl me over. I jammed
my sticks in the ground, bent over into the wind … and still felt myself being
blown backwards. After an almighty struggle (although it was on a path that was
in good condition) I got over the pass and started dropping down into Glen Lyon.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The path went close by an estate building with big signs
warning people off – then mercifully, there was another sheering shed. Exhausted by my battle with the weather I
gratefully went inside and found a chair, just inside the doorway! It was
obviously destined for me to rest here!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I got out my stove and brewed up, using water spilling from
a gutter off the roof. As I recovered I wrapped my storm shelter around me to
keep the draughts off, and I managed to avoid getting chilled. Presently I
dozed a little. Waking, I mused about staying there, out of the storm. For the next couple of days I had easy
distances. I could afford to stop awhile to wait out the storm, and catch up
later. I must have sat there for a couple of hours, dozing, waking and eating a
little, dozing again. Every time I looked out of the doorway the rain was
slamming down into puddles in the yard. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Eventually the rain eased to a drizzle, and the wind
dropped. I started to pack up ready to go. Two other Challengers, David and
Julie, arrived at the shed, also seeking shelter whilst they ate lunch. They
did not seem to have had such a rough time on the pass as me, but had been
knocked about earlier by the weather on the way up from Bridge of Orchy.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I set off down the loch. Despite my rest I was feeling
battered and slow. It may have been raining hard, but the loch was very low.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HUDmfIyaDFc/WTMBlEoQZVI/AAAAAAAAA5g/6wyBWfnQYGY4_uWPeytM8BVx7xHNRAI9QCLcB/s1600/P1020179.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HUDmfIyaDFc/WTMBlEoQZVI/AAAAAAAAA5g/6wyBWfnQYGY4_uWPeytM8BVx7xHNRAI9QCLcB/s320/P1020179.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There were some ‘interesting’ streams to cross, freshly in
spate as a result of the morning of heavy rain. I wondered how long it would
take for there to be some impression on the low level of the loch.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FkRxPN9o5Z0/WTMB0Y0pKnI/AAAAAAAAA5k/_dBccGCXnJY0U47cRTtAsEVvu21LwfssACLcB/s1600/P1020181.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FkRxPN9o5Z0/WTMB0Y0pKnI/AAAAAAAAA5k/_dBccGCXnJY0U47cRTtAsEVvu21LwfssACLcB/s320/P1020181.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Eventually I got down to the dam and hydro buildings,
looming out of the mist. By the time I got there the wind had dropped
considerably, and the surface of the loch was like a mirror. How conditions can
alter, in the space of a few short hours.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fFxkoy20Myg/WTMBjFsrm8I/AAAAAAAAA5c/O1rnOiu5nFgbQ7xkH-7YT8So5axkoqUJwCLcB/s1600/P1020180.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fFxkoy20Myg/WTMBjFsrm8I/AAAAAAAAA5c/O1rnOiu5nFgbQ7xkH-7YT8So5axkoqUJwCLcB/s320/P1020180.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The roadway down from the dam to Lubreoch was very steep –
and viciously eroded. Half-way down the
hill a small white van went pelting past me – only to nearly sop a few yards
further on when the tarmac all but disappeared and gaping potholes ate into
both sides of the road. The perils of motoring on little-used mountain
roadways! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">From Pubil I followed the road eastwards through farmland,
eventually making a difficult pitch (too much gravel under the turf) near a
memorial to Robert Campbell a local man, who had emigrated and then done some
significant exploring for the Hudson’s Bay Company in the mid-19<sup>th</sup>
Century.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-roTjIURsVUc/WTMB_EtcjgI/AAAAAAAAA5o/V9h1iHOypM4Q2-kIwbK7LqeRSyZKQUySACLcB/s1600/P1020182.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-roTjIURsVUc/WTMB_EtcjgI/AAAAAAAAA5o/V9h1iHOypM4Q2-kIwbK7LqeRSyZKQUySACLcB/s320/P1020182.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tuesday 16<sup>th</sup>
May 2017<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">13 miles<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This day was one of walking gently down the valley by way of
little used roads and farm tracks.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rXAnEJ8KFzY/WTMC5wy117I/AAAAAAAAA5w/N1gLfVsBQdYOeXnBHpckkb81yht_Y-6FgCLcB/s1600/P1020183.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rXAnEJ8KFzY/WTMC5wy117I/AAAAAAAAA5w/N1gLfVsBQdYOeXnBHpckkb81yht_Y-6FgCLcB/s320/P1020183.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There were quite a few things of interest, such as ancient
shelters, (above) and the hydro scheme at Stronuich (below)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E97Q6-92cJo/WTMC5pVvxXI/AAAAAAAAA50/ZzjA3zERSi8N0z3NJ_GpmATkANZtRcgMwCLcB/s1600/P1020186.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E97Q6-92cJo/WTMC5pVvxXI/AAAAAAAAA50/ZzjA3zERSi8N0z3NJ_GpmATkANZtRcgMwCLcB/s320/P1020186.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cgP4pfVMsbI/WTMC5tIgILI/AAAAAAAAA5s/FVB3lLNBjlI5Gsl0xS4CKs9gCRjYAJoQgCLcB/s1600/P1020187.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cgP4pfVMsbI/WTMC5tIgILI/AAAAAAAAA5s/FVB3lLNBjlI5Gsl0xS4CKs9gCRjYAJoQgCLcB/s320/P1020187.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Bridge of Balgie ran over a lovely stream, and suddenly
seemed to bring me from mountain into tourist land.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Rdg8JfAqr4M/WTMDbyxzuVI/AAAAAAAAA58/VLldFCg8OYkg_prCR1Ooi4043V42jSMzACLcB/s1600/P1020191.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Rdg8JfAqr4M/WTMDbyxzuVI/AAAAAAAAA58/VLldFCg8OYkg_prCR1Ooi4043V42jSMzACLcB/s320/P1020191.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A tea-shop at Bridge of Balgie was a brief delight, not
least because if brought me into contact with other Challengers. However they
were all heading north towards Rannoch, so I was soon on my own again. From Bridge
of Balgie there was a lovely farm track to the south of the river. I was happily set in trundle mode as I covered the
miles, looking for somewhere to pitch out of the wind. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AZ6XPIZPycs/WTMDbVugacI/AAAAAAAAA54/qdunuvs_o8sDz9yQ_sKANt7WHXEtoHa_QCLcB/s1600/P1020193.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AZ6XPIZPycs/WTMDbVugacI/AAAAAAAAA54/qdunuvs_o8sDz9yQ_sKANt7WHXEtoHa_QCLcB/s320/P1020193.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Normally I would not go near a sheep fold, for fear of
ticks, but I was fed up of the wind, and it didn’t look like it had been
occupied much recently, so I chanced pitching in its shelter. A stream ran
nearby, and I was tired. Decision made.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Wednesday 17<sup>th</sup>
May 2017<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">9 miles<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Someone switched on the sun whilst I was asleep. I woke on
Wednesday morning to a sky washed clear, a crystal early morning. I struck my
Trailstar and put it to air on the wall of the sheep-fold, whilst I breakfasted
in the open air. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F5j09QIQzRQ/WTMFCdjvEaI/AAAAAAAAA6E/b5ZRiYJzbWcY45zBjfWKHvCr3_G3Vgh-ACLcB/s1600/P1020194.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F5j09QIQzRQ/WTMFCdjvEaI/AAAAAAAAA6E/b5ZRiYJzbWcY45zBjfWKHvCr3_G3Vgh-ACLcB/s320/P1020194.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Setting off with a spring in my step I soon got to the end of
the farm track at Dericambus and found a lovely, unexpected picnic bench just
before the bridge, where I had a second breakfast.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UKQOoOhKpl0/WTMFA6gqC5I/AAAAAAAAA6A/hAGb5-vb8947P6flDHQ2INLCVY6FpgsdgCLcB/s1600/P1020203.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UKQOoOhKpl0/WTMFA6gqC5I/AAAAAAAAA6A/hAGb5-vb8947P6flDHQ2INLCVY6FpgsdgCLcB/s320/P1020203.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Joining the road it was obvious that this was farm country,
with a fair amount of traffic, but with drivers happy to wave and smile. I had
a chat with a farmer on a quad bike, who was familiar with the idea of
Challengers passing through the area. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">For a while I followed the river, in one place intrigued by
ancient, gnarled trees, full of character and mystery. Definitely a place to be
in full daylight, not passing through by torchlight on a misty night!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DmIP-l4WffY/WTMFEh1XlII/AAAAAAAAA6I/KKdeLG73QE80t609-G3FJlZAkhrOICYogCLcB/s1600/P1020205.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DmIP-l4WffY/WTMFEh1XlII/AAAAAAAAA6I/KKdeLG73QE80t609-G3FJlZAkhrOICYogCLcB/s320/P1020205.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Not far from here I caught sight of a pheasant posing in the
sun on a log.. Although he knew I was there he waited like a supermodel turning
his head this way and that., while I snapped shot after shot till I got the one
I was happy with. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-omRZqjb7EyI/WTMFzgNNpmI/AAAAAAAAA6U/wgUdMHv89KMf1GEKC3Wa2j9d9CbczgJRQCLcB/s1600/P1020213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-omRZqjb7EyI/WTMFzgNNpmI/AAAAAAAAA6U/wgUdMHv89KMf1GEKC3Wa2j9d9CbczgJRQCLcB/s320/P1020213.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I stopped beside the river for a long lunch break, brewing
tea and enjoying the place. Just as I was starting to pack up someone began
working close by with a chain saw. What a racket that made. So different from
the peaceful atmosphere that had been there before.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Soon the road tucked itself in close to the hillside, and I
saw a sight that filled me with amazement. I have mentioned the bluebells
before. Here there were acres, and acres of bluebells, with the whole woodland
seeming to glow purple, wherever I looked. I have never seen such numbers of
flowers in one place. Stunning.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cQ0DRbrvcrU/WTMFw6t6-hI/AAAAAAAAA6M/TB9wh22Y7XABu9OsxTXWzfaVHQY8_jDoACLcB/s1600/P1020219.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cQ0DRbrvcrU/WTMFw6t6-hI/AAAAAAAAA6M/TB9wh22Y7XABu9OsxTXWzfaVHQY8_jDoACLcB/s320/P1020219.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I hoped that I would find a tea-room, but this did not come
to pass. The road walking was taking its toll on my legs, and I was getting a
bit fed up, despite pretty countryside. I pushed on, looking forward to
arriving at the farm where I had booked a real bed for the night. A shower was
also high on my priorities. Wet-wipes can only go so far, and I was desperate
to wash my hair. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Finally I arrived at Boreland and could not find anyone
anywhere on the farm. There was a phone number on the sign by the door. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2sxckKbwQhU/WTMFzUCs38I/AAAAAAAAA6Q/8zI1mThtJUQlvwgAecIwVCjD5iaffFMpgCLcB/s1600/P1020225.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2sxckKbwQhU/WTMFzUCs38I/AAAAAAAAA6Q/8zI1mThtJUQlvwgAecIwVCjD5iaffFMpgCLcB/s320/P1020225.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Wondering if I had a signal I switched my phone on and rang
…. and discovered that the bunkhouse was currently’ unmanned’. I was given a
door code, and eventually got it to work.
Inside I found a lovely bunkhouse – but that the hot water was not
working. I had a wash using water from the kettle, cooked a meal and even
watched the telly for a little while. Seeing a weather forecast was a bonus.
Unfortunately the parcel I had expected was no-where to be found. Luckily I had
not eaten all my supplies from Bridge of Orchy, and had just enough to stretch
out for the next day to get me into Aberfeldy. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I went to bed in a bed. Luxury!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Thursday 18<sup>th</sup>
May 2017<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">11½ miles<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I had a lot of choices about route to Aberfeldy. As it was
quite warm when I set off, despite being early, I decided to go through the
trees as much as possible, to get shade. I also did not feel like climbing too
much. I chose a route parallel to the main A827. To begin with it was fabulous.
A clear track through woodland, easy to follow, interesting wildlife and
flowers everywhere. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fL4-YeH7CQo/WTMGC7CZmYI/AAAAAAAAA6Y/66cMVEeq8coOrAP3xJyMpScgzcAijBmAQCLcB/s1600/P1020230.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fL4-YeH7CQo/WTMGC7CZmYI/AAAAAAAAA6Y/66cMVEeq8coOrAP3xJyMpScgzcAijBmAQCLcB/s320/P1020230.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">At one point I heard the noisy chatter of a nest-full of
baby birds. Seeking the location of the nest I scanned the trees and was
rewarded with the sight of an owl swooping towards the noise, complete with a
mouse drooping in its beak. I have never seen that before – and in daylight
too. I never saw the nest: I reckon it was in a hollow in the tree, at the far
side and facing away from me. At another point I came upon a group of deer, who
scattered quickly at my approach. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Annoyingly, this fine trackway suddenly came to an end.
Considering what to do, it was difficult to get off the track, because there
were huge piles of logging debris. I had to backtrack about 50 meters before I
could drop off the track, down the steep slope towards the road. It was a very
steep slope, so I angled my way carefully across the slope, not wanting to slip
and end up on the main road below. Without expecting it, as I picked my way
carefully downhill I suddenly came on a level patch – and realised it was
another roadway, half-way down to the road. Again I moved forwards, for a few
hundred meters. Vegetation closed in, and I put on my wind shirt and gloves to
protect hands and arms, despite the warm day. Working my way through the brush
I eventually came out at the side of the road itself – and found myself just a
short distance away from a car park and information centre.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here I met a group of people preparing to go for an
open-water swim in Loch Tay. They told me where to find footpaths to take me to
the Mains of Taymouth and Kenmore. As I arrived there I passed a complex which
had once been a fancy residence, which looked as if it had been converted into
holiday lets – perhaps a time-share development. Rather up-market. Not really in
keeping with one who has been wild-camping in the mountains for the better part
of a week! Before I know it I was sitting in a lovely café with a pot of tea
and eating cake. I felt really out of place, surrounded by conventional tourist
families having fancy breakfasts, <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The swimmers had made me aware of a nice riverside path to
Aberfeldy, with a short stretch of road at Comrie bridge. I had a lovely
morning. I discovered this monument buried in the woodland.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_EK04gCUgFI/WTMIJxLmj3I/AAAAAAAAA6k/nQudQlcGrxAPZO8QMk9EPrCAeC5ECBkMgCLcB/s1600/P1020232.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_EK04gCUgFI/WTMIJxLmj3I/AAAAAAAAA6k/nQudQlcGrxAPZO8QMk9EPrCAeC5ECBkMgCLcB/s320/P1020232.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Later, following the riverside I found a fisherman’s shelter
and stopped to brew up. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eKk8UZj3vcQ/WTMIHqAa75I/AAAAAAAAA6c/RKJ633Cf8jIumlzOSdpwHIYkqOPv5GbugCLcB/s1600/P1020238.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eKk8UZj3vcQ/WTMIHqAa75I/AAAAAAAAA6c/RKJ633Cf8jIumlzOSdpwHIYkqOPv5GbugCLcB/s320/P1020238.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sitting there and enjoying the river I was joined by David
& Margaret, who soon pushed on after a short break, as they were aiming to get beyond
Aberfeldy for the night.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kERpqhYgg2g/WTMIJOWqPtI/AAAAAAAAA6g/4Q8HGXMq0P8jT313G90j9N-3oEHiiUdlACLcB/s1600/P1020234.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kERpqhYgg2g/WTMIJOWqPtI/AAAAAAAAA6g/4Q8HGXMq0P8jT313G90j9N-3oEHiiUdlACLcB/s320/P1020234.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Finally I stirred my stumps and took myself the final few
miles to Aberfeldy and my hotel. The shower was hot and I found a fine pizza in
the “Three Lemons”. What more could a girl need?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Friday 19<sup>th</sup>
May 2017<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">9 miles<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My original plan had been to take Friday as a rest day in Aberfeldy,
moving-on on Saturday via the Rob Roy way, heading towards Brechin then the
coast.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By this point in the proceedings, I was heartily fed-up of
my own company, and realised that although the countryside was very pretty it
was not what I was looking for as a Challenge.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On Friday evening I had rung Challenge Control and told them
I was going to head north, making for Tarfside and Northwater Bridge. The only
real downside of this was that I would have to sacrifice my rest day. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Accordingly, I had a lazy morning, eating a hotel breakfast,
then doing shopping and chores for the rest of the morning. Just after lunch I
set off again, paralleling the main road to Grandtully on an old railway line …<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-moFqhkvxFVE/WTMJO9uyLLI/AAAAAAAAA6o/qyjzLlFdtSU4o6_qTUHg5m8xE2Q7wUJMgCLcB/s1600/P1020241.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-moFqhkvxFVE/WTMJO9uyLLI/AAAAAAAAA6o/qyjzLlFdtSU4o6_qTUHg5m8xE2Q7wUJMgCLcB/s320/P1020241.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">… then taking the B898 to Balnamuir. I got there mid
evening, and sought permission to camp on the riverside. Unfortunately this was
not given, as the estate does not like camping on the river bank, but I was told I could go under the bridge
and camp out of sight round the other side.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hFBQHd_-0WE/WTMJPtbxWdI/AAAAAAAAA6s/HP-_ZKTsMaUR8rkNK4ZK9qZvn_6sLBhugCLcB/s1600/P1020245.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hFBQHd_-0WE/WTMJPtbxWdI/AAAAAAAAA6s/HP-_ZKTsMaUR8rkNK4ZK9qZvn_6sLBhugCLcB/s320/P1020245.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By going under the left-hand span of the bridge I found a
very acceptable pitch just over into a field, fitting my Trailstar onto
uncultivated ground just before the ploughed area.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Saturday 20<sup>th</sup>
May 2017<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">15 miles<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Waking early I struck camp in the rain and quickly set off
across the bridge. The old railway bridge has been adapted as a local estate
road. The upper surface is decked in wooden planking. It is wide enough for one
car.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-f2BNyl-JRDY/WTMJWCpywGI/AAAAAAAAA6w/-ebOM0Kf6JwbJjL0ZOz7DvEzcbIGG-rvwCLcB/s1600/P1020250.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-f2BNyl-JRDY/WTMJWCpywGI/AAAAAAAAA6w/-ebOM0Kf6JwbJjL0ZOz7DvEzcbIGG-rvwCLcB/s320/P1020250.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I got away from the main road at Logierait and Ballinluig,
climbing uphill steadily in the rain. I went through the grounds of Tulliemet
house, checking with a farmer that I was on the right track. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9Y9oTev5XXw/WTMKBFhORtI/AAAAAAAAA60/qxyjGc9fpIoMSYnjFxKQAvkB6dYhPWmagCLcB/s1600/P1020255.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9Y9oTev5XXw/WTMKBFhORtI/AAAAAAAAA60/qxyjGc9fpIoMSYnjFxKQAvkB6dYhPWmagCLcB/s320/P1020255.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The rain eased off during the morning, though showers kept
running through all day. Following the track I soon went past Loch
Oisinneach-Mor and Loch Oisinneach, and then over Creag Gharbh, <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7qCPjihA1H4/WTMKDa8lnuI/AAAAAAAAA64/akiSUOHqExQZZHNrs-BNYo4M3ZfnDxkhACLcB/s1600/P1020259.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7qCPjihA1H4/WTMKDa8lnuI/AAAAAAAAA64/akiSUOHqExQZZHNrs-BNYo4M3ZfnDxkhACLcB/s320/P1020259.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I then followed a marked path to Kirkmichael which took me
east down to Dalvey rather than the route I had originally thought of north to the Mains of Glenderby then east. It
was probably about the same distance in the long run, but was on a marked
path….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Arriving in Kirkmichael I had a cup of tea in the shop/café
and then looked for somewhere to stay. I was feeling soggy and tired and would
have loved a bed, so went to various places suggested by the lady in the shop.
However there was a cycle race in the area on the Sunday, and everywhere was
booked fully. The Strathardle Hotel did let me camp in the field beside the hotel,
and I had a very nice dinner there. When I eventually crawled into my sleeping bag I was both warm and tummy-full.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sunday 21<sup>st</sup>
May 2017<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">12 miles<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I had mistakenly expected the first part of the day to be
fairly easy, but it proved to be difficult ground for me to walk on, over rough
pasture and boggy ground. I took far longer getting from Kirkmichael to Lair
than I would have expected, although it was a lovely route. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The pattern of
stiles used locally is worth remembering. They are some of the nicest that I
have ever encountered, not only because they have a hand rail, but also because
there is room to stand securely on the top whilst turning around to descend.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PWiw456omoU/WTMKIN4o3sI/AAAAAAAAA68/9WxdwYreXqEs5C5lXmHEHdJM1zJyeL5-gCLcB/s1600/P1020262.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PWiw456omoU/WTMKIN4o3sI/AAAAAAAAA68/9WxdwYreXqEs5C5lXmHEHdJM1zJyeL5-gCLcB/s320/P1020262.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Between Lair and Cray I had a halt beside the river where I
brewed a cup of tea, then pushed onto Meikle Forter where I turned up Glen
Isla. There is a lovely old castle house there. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l3Dehvyg0LA/WTMKXFM0qNI/AAAAAAAAA7A/ZKykCaCB1rUnWAfl_e5soMecz74fRC2pwCLcB/s1600/P1020264.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l3Dehvyg0LA/WTMKXFM0qNI/AAAAAAAAA7A/ZKykCaCB1rUnWAfl_e5soMecz74fRC2pwCLcB/s320/P1020264.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The walk up Glen Isla was a bit of a trudge along the road,
and I was not really looking forward to the climb when I got to Fergus. So many
contour lines on the map, so close together! </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The track proved to be in good
condition, however, and the ascent was not too punishing. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My original plan had
been to take the ridge path from Craig Lair as far as Tarmach Cairn then to
drop down into Glen Prosen via the Glack of Balquhadder, camping at Kilbo ruin.
As it turned out, I stopped much sooner than that. A huge squall loomed when I was halfway up to Craig Lair. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My
instinct was to get under shelter – quickly. As I was in the open, but close to
an open patch of ground, I speedily put up my Trailstar and hurried under cover
as the first huge drops smashed into me. I had not had a chance to collect
water, so could not make my evening meal while I waited out the storm, but at least I was out of the worst of the
rain. The Trailstar has been a fabulous, reliable shelter for five years. That
squall was the beating of it though, as the
seam-sealant gave up against the pounding. Before long I was sitting mopping up leaks like I was in a
shower! It was better than being outside though. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I spent time looking closely at my maps and decided to stay put where I was for the night. Tomorrow I would stay high on the ridge and head for Mayar (at 928m a Munro) then
rejoin my planned route via the Kilbo path into Glen Doll then Gen Clova.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Monday 22<sup>nd</sup>
May 20177<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">12 miles<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tHbGT0qMIPA/WTMMBWvKIhI/AAAAAAAAA7I/T9TootrdOiEad2802Ave_3BaZpfhD6HpgCLcB/s1600/P1020271.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tHbGT0qMIPA/WTMMBWvKIhI/AAAAAAAAA7I/T9TootrdOiEad2802Ave_3BaZpfhD6HpgCLcB/s320/P1020271.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></b></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Rising early I soon climbed up to Craig Lair and onto the
ridgeway track. I thoroughly enjoyed myself, loving the views, the terrain and
the easy rhythm that walking took with a decent surface underfoot most of the
time. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UBKcphx6aR8/WTMMC1wJK1I/AAAAAAAAA7M/MbTyYXnKlBo60U2lrekT9W6ctYA-mSE3gCLcB/s1600/P1020276.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UBKcphx6aR8/WTMMC1wJK1I/AAAAAAAAA7M/MbTyYXnKlBo60U2lrekT9W6ctYA-mSE3gCLcB/s320/P1020276.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Getting to Tarmach Cairn I expected to have to start heather bashing as the map said the track would end there,
but I discovered that the marked </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">track</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">been extended northwards. It
was heading away towards Dun Hillocks when I left it to cut east to Mayar. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Before turning off towards Mayar I rested at an intriguing shelter build of stones and
earth-banking.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yaBFnM9mMW4/WTMMKrCDA_I/AAAAAAAAA7Q/IFpjVODGBfIGNAjwYhGCvhEyPCCXmMVGACLcB/s1600/P1020279.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yaBFnM9mMW4/WTMMKrCDA_I/AAAAAAAAA7Q/IFpjVODGBfIGNAjwYhGCvhEyPCCXmMVGACLcB/s320/P1020279.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Although not a ‘complete’ shelter with a roof, it was so warm that when I sat
down inside, I did not need to put on extra clothing, </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">as I would usually do, </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">despite a stiff wind</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">. I know it was the impact of the shelter, because the
moment I stood up it was like I had been sliced into by a knife of ice!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The rain hit again whilst I was climbing to the summit of
Mayar, and I did not linger. Hurrying away east was like following a motorway, as so many feet have stomped across the ground. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The visibility really closed in here, and it was only
possible to see a few yards ahead. I kept a close eye on my compass and kept
checking my location against GPS. Soon I realised that with a few steps I would
be on the infamous Shank of Drumfallow section of the Kilbo path.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I have to be honest. I hated it. I am not very good with
exposed pathways. Being exposed to a huge drop, in cloud that keeps shifting and showing the near-sheer drops of hundreds of feet is close to a nightmare. I kept going,
kept going, kept going. Eventually the end was in sight. Unfortunately in my pleasure at getting off the goat track like path, I had forgotten
how steep, and how long, the paths down through the woods would be, but
eventually I got to the bottom. My poor knees were protesting loudly by this time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Carelessness then hit me. I followed what I thought was the
path, and found myself on the wrong side to the river! Having earlier seen a
sign about bridges being washed out downstream I chanced crossing the river –
and managed to do so with my boots on, as the recent drought meant it was really shallow despite the recent rain. Crossing the river left me stranded
in the middle of farmland, with no obvious gate except into a farmyard. Cheekily I headed into the farmyard and out onto the road. Luckily no-one challenged me. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I called into the Ranger Station at the Glen Doll car park, and had a
cup of tea while chatting to the warden. Then it was road-slogging down to The
Glen Clova Hotel. Knowing what I was in for I plugged my i-pod into my ears,
put on some up-beat music and set off down the valley. That straight stretch of
road ALWAYS seems unending, but the relief of actually seeing the hotel is
wonderful.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was able to get a room in the bunkhouse, have a nice
shower and an amazing meal in company with other Challengers, before my eyelids
drooped completely.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tuesday 23<sup>rd</sup>
May 2017<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">14 miles<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5M2Mddj1hFw/WTMM0mmOmXI/AAAAAAAAA7U/ls_vk0pKfLobI1SUD4rTP9KM0YX6smNrQCLcB/s1600/P1020292.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5M2Mddj1hFw/WTMM0mmOmXI/AAAAAAAAA7U/ls_vk0pKfLobI1SUD4rTP9KM0YX6smNrQCLcB/s320/P1020292.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Past experience has told me that the climb up past Loch
Brandy to Green Hill(870m) just goes on, and on and on. There seem to be a
whole rash of false summits. On the whole it really reinforces my view that I
don’t like climbing big hills, but once up there, on the plateau I love it. I
was lucky this time to end my climb in company with Geoff Cantrell and his
friend (sorry I have forgotten your name yet again) and soon after to be joined
by Mike Knipe and his son James. A rare mountain photo was taken of me on the
top of Green Hill - rare because I am
usually in the hills on my own.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mjQJN2T1-bg/WTMM2UJCOdI/AAAAAAAAA7Y/_vKMGpANGtQdFSAq6dJa4QHCkxQisRvowCLcB/s1600/P1020299.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mjQJN2T1-bg/WTMM2UJCOdI/AAAAAAAAA7Y/_vKMGpANGtQdFSAq6dJa4QHCkxQisRvowCLcB/s320/P1020299.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Talking with other Challengers the night before I had
expressed my loathing of the descent at Inchgrundle – a steep, loose route down
with nothing to commend it. I had decided this time to press on and try to find
a way through, following the ridgeway to Cairn Caidloch. On the map it looked
straightforward. Do not turn with the path at East Cairn. Keep to a compass
bearing. Find the ridge and go with it. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was having great fun following the path – the regular
cairns must have taken years of work in times gone by. White Hill and Muckle
Cairn (826m) came and went, but at East Cairn my brain went on holiday. Why I
do this I don’t know, but I decided to ‘follow the land’ and look for a route
on the ground. Mistake. I should know better. Before I knew it I was embroiled
in peat hags and then dropping height rapidly down into Glen Effock. That was
NOT sensible. It is too steep to contour successfully, and I ended up having to climb the hill again. I re-established the ridge path just east of
Burnt Hill, having spent far too much time and energy fossicking around. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7lq1DUxHMA8/WTMNBYrSCyI/AAAAAAAAA7c/ns-KD3TDIWon3BEcQmUF7nMdzah8qawaACLcB/s1600/P1020320.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7lq1DUxHMA8/WTMNBYrSCyI/AAAAAAAAA7c/ns-KD3TDIWon3BEcQmUF7nMdzah8qawaACLcB/s320/P1020320.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">From there I stuck religiously to the path, up Cairn
Caidloch (647m)...<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8HhrnQt-3jA/WTMNc58GgPI/AAAAAAAAA7k/lmFylARmhrQBa4Ui9MDAyIOtabm5O45JACLcB/s1600/P1020322.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8HhrnQt-3jA/WTMNc58GgPI/AAAAAAAAA7k/lmFylARmhrQBa4Ui9MDAyIOtabm5O45JACLcB/s320/P1020322.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-836XtNLZ2Mk/WTMNdxD-JvI/AAAAAAAAA7g/x1EjdQR4k3cgTw_Z7NdWpE-ivXMvEdBdwCLcB/s1600/P1020323.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-836XtNLZ2Mk/WTMNdxD-JvI/AAAAAAAAA7g/x1EjdQR4k3cgTw_Z7NdWpE-ivXMvEdBdwCLcB/s320/P1020323.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">... and down the knee-punishing path to the farm at Gleneffock.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I <b><u>have</u></b> to
go back and do this route again, to prove to myself that I can do it without
making such a mess of my navigation.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Despite the dodgy bits, I had a wonderful day, and added to
Monday’s ridge walk, the two days really were the high spot of this year’s
Challenge.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Suffice to say that having come off the hill at Gleneffock
farm I trooped down the road to St Drostans at Tarfside, and was mightily pleased to arrive in
time for the last sitting for dinner amongst one of the most convivial
atmospheres in the world. Being able to have a shower and stretch out my
sleeping bag in the conference room, having had a swift one at the Masons Arms
was the perfect end to a wonderful day. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Wednesday 24<sup>th</sup>
May 2017<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">17 miles<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I left Tarfside fairly early, taking the road down the
valley. Passing the green I saw Challengers packing up, and reflected that as
my Trailstar had sprung a leak a couple of nights ago I was glad not to have
had to sleep out last night.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mnbaGtmAXjY/WTMPA2nSqYI/AAAAAAAAA70/HhriB2RlHkgiOPvQJ6xg39VtCPnE8_L0wCLcB/s1600/P1020327.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mnbaGtmAXjY/WTMPA2nSqYI/AAAAAAAAA70/HhriB2RlHkgiOPvQJ6xg39VtCPnE8_L0wCLcB/s320/P1020327.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There is little to say about the route finding from Tarfisde
onwards. The way always seems to go on and on and on, but as motivating factors
there is the 'Tuck Inn' in Edzell and the party atmosphere of the camp site at
North Water Bridge.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I took a short break beside the river, filling up with water
in my filter bottle, as it was getting hot.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UBSukZGC-SI/WTMPA59JghI/AAAAAAAAA7w/EUubOT6Q-ekLCrVKFTmfMc7et8itViIQgCLcB/s1600/P1020329.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UBSukZGC-SI/WTMPA59JghI/AAAAAAAAA7w/EUubOT6Q-ekLCrVKFTmfMc7et8itViIQgCLcB/s320/P1020329.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pushing on down the Rocks of Solitude I enjoyed the shade
under the trees – and noticed just how low the water was here. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Tuck Inn was a great success, as always. The staff are
wonderful, and the fish and chips I had was so huge it could only be described
as ‘Whale and Chips’. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A quick visit to the shop led to a huge shock when I saw the
newspaper headlines telling the story of the Manchester Arena bombing. My heart
sank. So many people I know go there. I hoped no-one we know had been involved.
I thought back to all the people I know who had been involved when there was
the bomb at The Arndale. For a while I got quite emotional – but then realised
that if anything terrible had happened Ron would have found a way to get in
touch with me.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">That just left the
last slog across country to NWB campsite. Once again I resorted to my i-pod,
setting it on shuffle, and just bouncing along to the music. I was in a strange
mood – happy, to be nearly at the end, yet sad, with another nearly over. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LeaEeZpS1HQ/WTMPAmRQa-I/AAAAAAAAA7s/CAtPc_IkYggZAWV1w7RaJ1aI3KqDW4XYgCLcB/s1600/P1020330.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LeaEeZpS1HQ/WTMPAmRQa-I/AAAAAAAAA7s/CAtPc_IkYggZAWV1w7RaJ1aI3KqDW4XYgCLcB/s320/P1020330.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It is difficult to describe both the atmosphere and environment
at NWB. Everyone crams in to the central grassy area, and the picnic tables
become the centres of mini-parties. Tales are told, friendships deepen and the
Challenger spirit abounds – along with humbler liquid spirits too. My abiding
memory of our ‘party’ was when my Baby-bel cheese became the centre of
attention. Someone had hear that it was possible to make a candle out of the
wax from a Baby-bel. We decided to test it out. A piece of tissue was rolled
into a wick and then the wax moulded around the wick. A suitable stone was
found to sit the candle on, and then with due ceremony it was lit.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Dv-c6eMH-Vk/WTMPw-ocLJI/AAAAAAAAA74/bylFBeTAdJA1Q62R5giSZyHmoQP2hL5VACLcB/s1600/P1020333.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Dv-c6eMH-Vk/WTMPw-ocLJI/AAAAAAAAA74/bylFBeTAdJA1Q62R5giSZyHmoQP2hL5VACLcB/s320/P1020333.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It quickly became apparent that this was no idle party
trick, that this was a serious candle, and timing of the burn continued in
earnest.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n1Ti4_O7KRA/WTMPx9KlLxI/AAAAAAAAA8A/co-7U3OFPF8re-uJI3Y0Pc2mitkqtOKdgCLcB/s1600/P1020336.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n1Ti4_O7KRA/WTMPx9KlLxI/AAAAAAAAA8A/co-7U3OFPF8re-uJI3Y0Pc2mitkqtOKdgCLcB/s320/P1020336.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-axegFqeyp7I/WTMPxHJcwZI/AAAAAAAAA78/m4GzcAg4wok1qXrwh5QjLeq2NbayAzUjgCLcB/s1600/P1020338.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-axegFqeyp7I/WTMPxHJcwZI/AAAAAAAAA78/m4GzcAg4wok1qXrwh5QjLeq2NbayAzUjgCLcB/s320/P1020338.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-960j-zV_1mg/WTMQP294mBI/AAAAAAAAA8E/X2i-o7NSF0816_mzlOdIUa2573VeXAh2gCLcB/s1600/P1020339.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-960j-zV_1mg/WTMQP294mBI/AAAAAAAAA8E/X2i-o7NSF0816_mzlOdIUa2573VeXAh2gCLcB/s320/P1020339.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In the end our
Baby-bel candle burned for 18 minutes. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was wondered if having a thinner wick would have led to a
slower burn – but we could not find another Baby-bel to test the theory. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Thursday 25<sup>th</sup>
May 2017<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">9 miles<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VarvOqQVwGc/WTMQTQnbeAI/AAAAAAAAA8I/7Q_JTpi77eQcvvg1o5mALBPYisDqI7OggCLcB/s1600/P1020340.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VarvOqQVwGc/WTMQTQnbeAI/AAAAAAAAA8I/7Q_JTpi77eQcvvg1o5mALBPYisDqI7OggCLcB/s320/P1020340.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Last year I had discovered a nice walk through woodland
between Crago and Hillside, so I had decided to do it again. I had also been
told about a garden centre which did lovely scones, and had plans to find this
place. With that in mind I struck camp for the last time. There is always a
bitter-sweet emotion about that final packing up. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Not a lot can be said about the trudge through North Water
Bridge and Mains of Gallery to Broomley. Reaching the main road I followed the
footpath down to North Craigo and stopped briefly on the bench beside the war
memorial. Pushing on, I was prepared for a short road walk from the end of the
footpath at the last house, to the start of the roadway through the woods. Then
I noticed – possibly because of a newly fallen tree which had cleared the view
into the woods, that there was a slim path down the narrow strip of trees
edging the road. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qEepPPzpChU/WTMR33NjNmI/AAAAAAAAA8U/Sz49niffdHwcweaLdftm201EZ-mTsQLTgCLcB/s1600/P1020343.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qEepPPzpChU/WTMR33NjNmI/AAAAAAAAA8U/Sz49niffdHwcweaLdftm201EZ-mTsQLTgCLcB/s320/P1020343.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U_pR1Bp_THw/WTMRxO4kiCI/AAAAAAAAA8Q/02uoCIEJrGAdO96G68coEDHIgW9C5f7KgCLcB/s1600/P1020344.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U_pR1Bp_THw/WTMRxO4kiCI/AAAAAAAAA8Q/02uoCIEJrGAdO96G68coEDHIgW9C5f7KgCLcB/s320/P1020344.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Delightedly I left the road, for although traffic there was
not heavy, it was still too dominant a factor to relax. Under the trees was
lovely. This slim corridor led down to a farm road. I stepped out onto the main
road, around a wall beside the road and followed straight on down the roadway I
had been aiming for. I think it must have been the old road, which has now been
by-passed by the current loop of road which goes around the outside of
Hillside. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Musing whilst I walked, I soon found myself in Hillside,
where the Post Office turned out to be the source of great treasure: a chilled
bottle of Sprite from the refrigerator. Crossing the main road and following
JJ’s instructions I wended my way to the scones emporium, Charleton Fruit Farm.
From the number of Challengers passing through, this place is a highlight on
many routes to the coast! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Making a slight pig of myself I had a pot of tea, a bowl of
asparagus soup with a cheese roll AND a scone with cream and jam. I figured
that I had worked hard over the last fortnight and could afford a bit of a
nosh!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9M7PCWEtq2w/WTMR7bIG8HI/AAAAAAAAA8Y/Od1niDcVQEcEwgiDJ3lK_eZJB8_vZPeQwCLcB/s1600/P1020345.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9M7PCWEtq2w/WTMR7bIG8HI/AAAAAAAAA8Y/Od1niDcVQEcEwgiDJ3lK_eZJB8_vZPeQwCLcB/s320/P1020345.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fortified, I checked the route to take to the beach and set
off on the last lap to the water. That last mile seemed to take for ever, but
finally I made it through the dunes to the beach at Kinaber Links and out to
the water. For once it was a lovely day to be on a beach. I dipped my toes and
took a number of photos. I was just turning to go when another Challenger,
Mark, turned up. He kindly took a picture of me.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--WEk6Ixkg54/WTMSHZmlWlI/AAAAAAAAA8c/KM-AWy7q_38DNVdWPCr2LSilYBhD_W6UwCLcB/s1600/P1020352.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--WEk6Ixkg54/WTMSHZmlWlI/AAAAAAAAA8c/KM-AWy7q_38DNVdWPCr2LSilYBhD_W6UwCLcB/s320/P1020352.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Having quickly rung home to say I had finished, all that
remained was to find my way into Montrose itself to sign in at Challenge
Control. Once I had received my finisher’s T-shirt I was off to Boots to buy
nail varnish to match my Challenge T-shirt, to paint fingers and toes for the
bun-fight that evening, then settled into my hotel room for a wallow in the
bath. The Challenge was over for 2017.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17936841596623221054noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3855601948400120759.post-85082227399473714052016-06-07T04:49:00.001-07:002016-06-07T04:49:35.779-07:00TGOC 2016<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: 20.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">TGO Challenge 2016<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Shiel Bridge to Montrose</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ImNCGOLaryg/V1aJOKUo1RI/AAAAAAAAAuI/pBBbgdta85YF_SWQq41-i4-gKr42aguNgCLcB/s1600/TGOC%2B2016b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="156" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ImNCGOLaryg/V1aJOKUo1RI/AAAAAAAAAuI/pBBbgdta85YF_SWQq41-i4-gKr42aguNgCLcB/s320/TGOC%2B2016b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Thursday 12<sup>th</sup> May 2016</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Getting to the start of the
Challenge this year had been ‘different’, with a special family holiday in Skye
as a ‘warm-up’. Travelling up to Scotland at the beginning of May I had no
confidence in weather forecasts and had brought both winter and summer gear with
me. However a heatwave (until you stepped into the shade) in Skye, plus avid
poring over every forecast I could access on the internet decided me. Ditching
the heavy winter weight sleeping bag, long sleeved merino top and Kahtoola
microspikes (and my heavier Osprey 70l pack too) I would wear summer trousers
and short sleeved Merino top and Rab Vapour-rise jacket. Carrying my tiny
summer sleeping bag meant the lighter Montane Grand Tour 55 pack – but I
couldn’t get away from the feeling that I would need my heavyweight Paramo
waterproofs. In other words, I had to be able to cope with the unusual heat,
but knew nasty weather could descend at any time – as per usual on the
Challenge. Knowing my summer sleeping bag would not cope with frosty conditions
I also packed my down trousers, bothy slippers and jacket as a lightweight luxury.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After saying goodbye to the family
when they dropped me in Shiel Bridge I booked into the bunkhouse at the Kintail
Lodge and began the delightful task of chatting to as many Challengers as
possible on my crossing. I met up with some old acquaintances including John
Jocys, Iain Sinclair and Russ Manion and some people I had not met previously.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U7FQPMBcS4o/V1aJtywdCxI/AAAAAAAAAuQ/wt5XCFDSLzwRRnSIRH1-Q9a-2K9bjJ2ngCLcB/s1600/P1010393.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U7FQPMBcS4o/V1aJtywdCxI/AAAAAAAAAuQ/wt5XCFDSLzwRRnSIRH1-Q9a-2K9bjJ2ngCLcB/s320/P1010393.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I went for a stroll to stretch my
legs and to dip my toes in the west coast water, in the time-honoured manner of
Challengers, then set about the task of eating a hearty pre-challenge meal in
the bar. Of course this also entailed lots of interesting chat with
Challengers, principally first timer Sabine Zawadzki from Germany and Mike and
Marian Parsons from Patterdale. Determined not to have too late a night, so I
could be up bright and early in the morning, I went back to the bunkhouse and
duly put my ear-plugs in preparation for a noisy night of snores! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Friday 13<sup>th</sup> May.</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As usual I woke early and was
quick to unplug my ears. Yes. Right decision. It may be a tad uncomfortable
blocking up your ears for the night, but when it comes to communal sleeping
they are a must! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hoping the ‘Friday 13<sup>th</sup>’
start date was not an omen of things to come, I crept out of the bunkhouse
leaving the snorers to their sleep. Too early to sign out and too early for
another ‘stoking up’ meal in the hotel, I strolled again, met a few other early risers, and practised the art
of Challenge talk. You may have only just met, or have met briefly three years
ago one wet and windy afternoon, or have spent half a day one year trolling
down some path with someone, but if you are a Challenger you have common ground
(my husband would say a common obsession… ) and the conversation just flows.
Places you have been. Gear. Places you are going. Gear. Weather conditions.
Gear. Injuries you or others have had and/or are recovering from. Gear.
Animals, birds, flowers and trees. Gear.
Lovely!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">At last the time arrived for
breakfast and we Challengers descended on the dining room like a flock of
hungry seagulls, intent on gobbling up as many calories as possible, knowing
this was the last ‘real’ food for days. Stuffed to the gills I paid my bill,
collected my pack and went to sign out.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Off at last. Months of
anticipation and planning. With fingers mentally crossed I was determined to
take it gently, as this first day saw my pack at its heaviest on the whole
crossing. I had a full load of food for as far as Fort Augustus (where there is
a decent shop), gas (to get me to Newtonmore where my husband was dropping a
parcel off for me on his way home from holiday in Skye with more food, gas,
maps and knickers), and all the associated consumable bits and pieces like
medicines, wet-wipes and first aid, that would reduce as I went. I had parcels
organised for two points and would occasionally pass shops, but I had worked
out the logistics to the <i>nth</i> degree
this year, and was determined to carry nothing unnecessary.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The stroll up past Morvich and
through Gleann Lichd was lovely, but the wind was getting up. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aPZWMmtKnCs/V1aJ6UZFWPI/AAAAAAAAAuc/F_Wn02MVLv09jbgkO3vJP03OL1OiBOHMgCKgB/s1600/P1010395.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aPZWMmtKnCs/V1aJ6UZFWPI/AAAAAAAAAuc/F_Wn02MVLv09jbgkO3vJP03OL1OiBOHMgCKgB/s320/P1010395.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I thought back to previous trips
up this Glen, including one which ended in a huge storm. Fingers crossed turned
into quiet prayers. “Please, please don’t send a storm – at least not today.
Let me get into the swing of things before the weather hits.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rbWyq2YaOvc/V1aKhkREm3I/AAAAAAAAAuo/TdpoRlJDFXwNzswl-KJ3MVS6i_OIog6zwCLcB/s1600/P1010394.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rbWyq2YaOvc/V1aKhkREm3I/AAAAAAAAAuo/TdpoRlJDFXwNzswl-KJ3MVS6i_OIog6zwCLcB/s320/P1010394.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Stopping by the Edinburgh
University climbing hut (Glenlicht House) it was interesting to note that they
have piped a feed off a stream so there is a constant water supply into an old
sink, just outside the hut. I stopped there tucked in against the building to get
out of the wind. Various other Challengers were doing the same, while some were
tucked into the nearby ruins.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The terrain changed beyond the
hut, with the first climb of this year’s route. I hate climbing with a
backpack. I love walking through valleys. I love yomping over moorland. Even
bog-hopping has its excitements, but climbing with a big, heavy pack is just
sheer hard drudgery, only relieved by pretty things to see. Crossing the
bridges and looking back I was surprised by how quickly the hut had turned into
a miniature feature in the wider landscape<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RjZFJUiqyc0/V1aLgXJiWqI/AAAAAAAAAu4/s_brMW4sV9QulD4tm4Y5w6j-rOuPpLRDACLcB/s1600/P1010397.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RjZFJUiqyc0/V1aLgXJiWqI/AAAAAAAAAu4/s_brMW4sV9QulD4tm4Y5w6j-rOuPpLRDACLcB/s320/P1010397.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The waterfalls here never fail to
impress me, although this was the least water I have ever seen in them <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-49NRd770lco/V1aLrxOEHEI/AAAAAAAAAvI/ZkO4ah4TMDsF73bcdpNyVHHGWhRPy9AEACKgB/s1600/P1010399.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-49NRd770lco/V1aLrxOEHEI/AAAAAAAAAvI/ZkO4ah4TMDsF73bcdpNyVHHGWhRPy9AEACKgB/s320/P1010399.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I thought back to Easter 2013
when the water had spouted out amongst an art-work of ice and when I had had
‘interesting times’ playing in my microspikes on icy sections of this steep
path.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The sun came out again, and I
stopped for a delightful ‘picnic’ lunch near a stream. First opportunity to air
my feet on this Challenge. Treats! Slathering my feet in more 'Gehwol Extra' foot
cream I carefully re-encased my feet in wooly socks and boots and set off again. My determination to
look after myself, to get the pace right, and to get across ‘unbroken’ this
year was uppermost in my mind as I continued to plod upwards.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Reaching the top of the climb I
began to enjoy myself much more as I headed out to Camban Bothy, determined to
stop there to brew up a cup of tea. In
previous years I have headed inside to make my brew, but with the sun in
evidence I stayed outside and had a much needed brew. By now I was feeling the
weight of my pack, and glad that I had decided to book a night at Alltbeithe
youth hostel, rather than have my first wild camp. I was also determined to
walk my own challenge, at my own pace, even if that may be snail pace. I was
not going to rush on with other people, just for the sake of keeping up with
them. From previous years I knew that was a recipe for trouble. My plan was to
keep my feet intact, my knees as pain-free as possible, and to enjoy as much as
I could.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Suitably refreshed and having
sought a quiet location for a bit of grass watering (tea does that…) I pushed
on to Allbeithe. It amuses me that the hostel is known as 'Glen Affric hostel',
yet is on the maps as Alltbethe. Anglicisation? It must puzzle some people who
don’t know the area.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fP_koJkJku0/V1aMJTdpcNI/AAAAAAAAAvU/j0P7AjsmzWwbyDd0Urro62OnVW-jAYL4QCLcB/s1600/IMGP4445.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fP_koJkJku0/V1aMJTdpcNI/AAAAAAAAAvU/j0P7AjsmzWwbyDd0Urro62OnVW-jAYL4QCLcB/s320/IMGP4445.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The warden gave me a lovely
welcome with tea and scones – and the place was abuzz with challengers. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Russ
Manion had had a painful fall on the latter part of his walk-in, and arrived
dripping blood from his nose. He had a nasty 'face-plant' due to a rock moving under his
foot. Poor Russ had lots of scrapes and bangs on his face, and had hurt his arm
too. Tony Hewitt helped patch him up. There is something about this route. It
looks so benign, yet my own last visit here on the Challenge in May 2013 was
similar. I fell myself on the climb. I arrived at the hostel with a huge bruise on my
forehead, having slipped on wet slabs of rock. I looked like cyclops for days!
The evening passed in a daze of eating, sorting my pack for the morning and
chatting, before I plugged my ears and went off to the land of nod in the ‘back
shed’, the second dormitory hut. The only downside to this hostel is having to
walk across from the back hut to the front one to visit the loo in the middle
of the night. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Saturday 14<sup>th</sup> May 2016</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Bfr7NwNB7cU/V1aMtr06LzI/AAAAAAAAAvg/0WSdIjWcqzYMsoyU2bBPOHwGtRtfzZBKACLcB/s1600/P1010405.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Bfr7NwNB7cU/V1aMtr06LzI/AAAAAAAAAvg/0WSdIjWcqzYMsoyU2bBPOHwGtRtfzZBKACLcB/s320/P1010405.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Day two dawned, frosty and
beautiful. After a quick breakfast I was away. The familiar track up Glen
Affric beckoned, and I trotted contentedly on my way, taking in the views and
occasionally capturing them with a photo. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I07FJraHaNU/V1aNJzfrL0I/AAAAAAAAAvs/Lm8w-92F3JY22ayztkcAmZedENN3mE58gCLcB/s1600/P1010409.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I07FJraHaNU/V1aNJzfrL0I/AAAAAAAAAvs/Lm8w-92F3JY22ayztkcAmZedENN3mE58gCLcB/s320/P1010409.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The sky was occasionally cloudy,
but blue predominated, and the breeze was gentle. It was warm. This was my
fifth Challenge crossing – and the first where the weather has been so warm at
the beginning. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-B7tJwN-j0Ek/V1aNosDiJ8I/AAAAAAAAAv0/lAXuyzjY1_AoNH_AKfGj62jLHaaWkhlPgCLcB/s1600/P1010413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-B7tJwN-j0Ek/V1aNosDiJ8I/AAAAAAAAAv0/lAXuyzjY1_AoNH_AKfGj62jLHaaWkhlPgCLcB/s320/P1010413.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Shortly before lunch I turned
onto unfamiliar territory, up Allt Garbh and towards Cougie. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-A7u-2ungcaQ/V1aOl7P6E6I/AAAAAAAAAwI/CQH91ozAvTMQ8NfP6R5nPn3ImVduSz4ygCLcB/s1600/P1010414.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-A7u-2ungcaQ/V1aOl7P6E6I/AAAAAAAAAwI/CQH91ozAvTMQ8NfP6R5nPn3ImVduSz4ygCLcB/s320/P1010414.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was interesting to note that
the map shows the path on the west bank, when in fact it runs up the east bank
of the stream. At NH183212 there is a fence-line. I stopped in the trees here
to have lunch and air my feet. Various other challengers passed, stopping for a
chat. I watched them climb the hill a little then step across the fence-line.
Re-booted, I followed, soon finding a spot where it had fallen down, and it was
easy to step across. I took a photo looking back down the hill to where I had
stopped for lunch to remind myself of
the location.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rfRqhY-9yJQ/V1aOl6QX1SI/AAAAAAAAAwM/jj7yAmd0I5Ea2oQ51e8DDEpykHms-NWVQCKgB/s1600/P1010415.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rfRqhY-9yJQ/V1aOl6QX1SI/AAAAAAAAAwM/jj7yAmd0I5Ea2oQ51e8DDEpykHms-NWVQCKgB/s320/P1010415.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The tramp to Cougie was
delightful with lots of interesting things to see. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MXEzuh3AwJM/V1aOlXtRhqI/AAAAAAAAAwk/CfQFrVvgAv4dsoniWXh52lAObmFiAqmzwCKgB/s1600/P1010420.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MXEzuh3AwJM/V1aOlXtRhqI/AAAAAAAAAwk/CfQFrVvgAv4dsoniWXh52lAObmFiAqmzwCKgB/s320/P1010420.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">At one point I passed a party of
young men (Scouts?) who were doing some form of bike-packing. They had bike trailers
loaded with heavy looking, huge waterproof sacs behind their bikes. They were
obviously having a struggle on a rough section of the track, but seemed to be
enjoying themselves enormously. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Finally I got to Cougie.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2dpNfcEYVU8/V1aO0YeASTI/AAAAAAAAAwc/xY_9zcXdf38oPBAPO0T81J1NLPYg1IKKQCKgB/s1600/P1010422.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2dpNfcEYVU8/V1aO0YeASTI/AAAAAAAAAwc/xY_9zcXdf38oPBAPO0T81J1NLPYg1IKKQCKgB/s320/P1010422.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Pocock family have built an interesting place here, off the grid, that really ought to be visited. Their welcome for Challengers
is huge, and the home cooking is a treat. I thoroughly enjoyed my evening here.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Other people in the bunkhouse
included Ian Sinclair, Mike Gillespie (doing his 10<sup>th</sup> Crossing) and
his party Dave Perry and Michael Hossack plus Nik Lawcock from Nottingham.
Mike’s party were full of hilarity, and we had a lovely evening of laughter,
especially once we got the stove going in the bunkhouse. Everyone was given
nicknames. Mine was ‘Sparkle toes’ because I was wearing my sandals and
everyone could see the glittery nail varnish on my toes!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Later, awaking in the middle of
the night, when everyone else was asleep, I was very aware of the clear night
sky, and the brilliant, nearly full moon hanging over the valley. What a setting.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Sunday 15<sup>th</sup> May.</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Another lovely day seemed to be
on the cards as I found my way to the farmhouse kitchen for a hearty breakfast.
As well as the farm animals and horses everywhere, there was an abundance of
very tame birdlife.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My original plan had been to walk
down to Hilton Lodge then back up and over a track to Torgyle Bridge. Iain
Pocock suggested an alternative route, pretty much south over the hill behind
the farm, with a traverse across the watershed to woodland at NH260157. I
decided, since it had been dry for so long, to give this route a go, as it
would cut a number of miles out of my day. It looked do-able. Underpinning this
was the thought that maybe I could get to Fort Augustus and then do the
Corrieyairack Pass ahead of schedule and get to Newtonmore in time to have a
half-day off before my marathon long walk to Glenmore. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I have to say that if this had
been a wet, stormy day this would have been a FOUL route, but in the dry it was
not bad. The climb up from Cougie, although steep, was not bad, and conditions
on the top were benign. Dry sphagnum moss!!! It was years since I had seen
anything like it. Walking a compass bearing across the peat hags was a bit
tiresome, but soon I was down at the corner of the woodland, anticipating a
nice walk down a path to the river in Glen Moriston. I had navigated exactly to the point where I wanted to be. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Delighted with my navigation, I sought the path. What path?
All I could find was a greasy brilliant green smear heading towards wind-felled
trees. Regrouping, I decided to follow the outer margin of the woodland, down a
steep, often boggy hillside, sandwiched between trees and a deer fence. It has
to be said this was not a high-point in my day, but it was <i>Challenging</i>. It
could be said that it was horrible! I seemed to take hours slipping and sliding
my way down that hill, getting more and more cross as I went.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Eventually I found a little spot
where I was able to stop and take water from a small stream, to brew up, have a
cup of tea and air my feet. Somewhat soothed I pressed on down the tiresome
descent, eventually coming out on the roadway north of River Moriston just to
the west of Balnacarn. By now it was late afternoon, and all thoughts of
getting ahead of schedule by cutting several miles out of my day had vanished
into the ether. I was going to have to push on to get to Torgyle Bridge, let
alone get ahead of myself. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I picked up the pace and fairly
yomped down the road, which had virtually no traffic on it. As I got to Torgyle
Bridge I decided to push on up the military road as far as I could get towards
Fort Augustus, despite the fact that it was late. The weather was settled and
light would be good until late, so I walked on.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Coming to the ford at NH324109 I
realised that this would be a lovely place to spend the night. Pitching the
Zephyrus was a little challenging – only 2 pegs would go in, the ground at the
riverside was so stony, so I weighed everything else down with rocks from the
river, had a quick meal and went to bed hoping that the wind would stay light
overnight!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g8Gnu8EwuTI/V1aQd5tCujI/AAAAAAAAAws/0bOl099e0zs3CKyt7DQeRQI1D3yxWf2awCLcB/s1600/P1010439.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g8Gnu8EwuTI/V1aQd5tCujI/AAAAAAAAAws/0bOl099e0zs3CKyt7DQeRQI1D3yxWf2awCLcB/s320/P1010439.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Monday 16<sup>th</sup> May</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Another sunny day! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">An early start
had me in Fort Augustus late morning. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I ‘paid a visit’ at the public
loo and noticed there was a mother and baby room. Chatting to the attendant I
asked if it would be possible to go in there so I could have a wash? I was
delighted when this came to pass. You would not believe the pleasure of being
able to wash your hair in a hand-basin, using the squirty handwash stuff
instead of shampoo, when you have spent a few sunny days in the hills wearing a
Tilly hat!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Next I visited the Londis shop
where I stoked up on necessary provisions both for a nice lunch today and to
get me to Newtonmore. I took myself to sit by the canal locks, and put my
sandals on instead of my boots. Sitting by the canal, watching the walkers on
the Caledonian Canal with their tiny little bags (presumably they use a bag-moving
service for their main baggage) I felt a bit smug. I was doing it the hard way. The real way. I wasn’t
in a hurry to get going again though! I sat a bit longer and saw various
parties of tourist gome through, speaking French, Italian and other languages I
couldn’t identify. Then some more interesting people: three cyclists who, from
what I overheard of their conversation and gear, were cycling from John
O’Groats to Lands End. By this point my feet had cooled down, my lunch was
eaten and it was time to move on.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It felt very hot as I left Fort
Augustus, heading towards the Corrieyairack. I passed the castle at the bottom
of the pass, thinking how it has been done up since I first went past there.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PMIW3t8XOFs/V1aQzBkGolI/AAAAAAAAAw0/Vd6byyklXHAhJD3Iib2H2-AKcwPZQwfXwCKgB/s1600/P1010444.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PMIW3t8XOFs/V1aQzBkGolI/AAAAAAAAAw0/Vd6byyklXHAhJD3Iib2H2-AKcwPZQwfXwCKgB/s320/P1010444.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Shortly after this I encountered
a herd of cows and their calves who were gathered, making rather a lot of noise
by a gate in the fence. I wondered if they were waiting to go for milking, as
they were so vocal. My first instinct was to stay back from them as cows with
calves are notoriously unpredictable, and can be dangerous. These besties had
wicked looking horns. However, as I waited for them, chilling in the breeze, I
realised they were just going to stay put there, by the gate, and that was my
only route forwards. There were a few other cattle in the next field, but they
didn’t seem to be talking to this bunch at all. What was I to do?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cvzIwO8xWRo/V1aSFVx9b6I/AAAAAAAAAxI/h2PYmQKogAEXjTSDmhLMGSYVO40sUj5XACLcB/s1600/P1010446.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cvzIwO8xWRo/V1aSFVx9b6I/AAAAAAAAAxI/h2PYmQKogAEXjTSDmhLMGSYVO40sUj5XACLcB/s320/P1010446.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After mulling this for a while I
decided I had to move through them, but needed to let them know I was no threat.
I started talking quietly, moving very, very slowly around first one, then another
cow, keeping away from their babies as well as I could. Aware of me, but not
jumpy, they eased a passage through for me, and eventually, with my heart
racing I got as far as the gate. I drew back the bolt and slipped through. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Out of the frying pan, into the
fire. The beasts in the next field were all male. One of them was a massive
bull! The cows hadn’t been calling out because they wanted milking. They were
calling out to their boyfriends! Oh heck! Very quietly I moved along the
trackway, heart in mouth, while the huge bull continued to graze nonchalantly.
Step by step I passed him, easing my way further and further away. Eventually I
heaved a sigh of relief, judging that I had come far enough up the track to be
out of his range. Oh well, I thought, it is indeed aptly named a ‘Challenge’.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I stopped for something to eat by
the stream below the first set of zigzags on the Corrieyairack Pass. Here, I
was joined by Nik Lawcock, who had also been at the bunkhouse in
Cougie. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I began to climb seriously up
the zig zags below Creag Dhubh. I have never enjoyed climbing hard – and must
say that next section was horrible in the heat. There is, however a sort of
‘top’, where it evens out for a while, and I reached that gratefully! I trotted
along the next section wondering how many people would be at Blackburn Bothy.
Last time I was there a couple of tents had been outside and two of us (Maggie
Hems & me) inside. I was hoping it wasn’t too crowded at the bothy, as it <u>is</u>
nice to be able to cook and move about without having to sit on the floor in
your tent!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uYzyEuSaP1A/V1aQzPWhMlI/AAAAAAAAAxE/2a1n1darf50Vsvz1JKuRYG2g6rUCclMGQCKgB/s1600/P1010448.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uYzyEuSaP1A/V1aQzPWhMlI/AAAAAAAAAxE/2a1n1darf50Vsvz1JKuRYG2g6rUCclMGQCKgB/s320/P1010448.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Finally the roof of the bothy
popped out from behind the hill and I knew I was there at last. I was
incredibly tired, which I put down to the heat of the day. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Amazingly, there was no-one else
there. I went to gather water and got the stove on. Nik arrived shortly after,
and we decided that unless anyone else turned up, and it became advantageous to
camp outside, we would stay indoors for the night. She set herself up on one
side of the bothy, and I had the other. We chattered away while we made our
respective evening meals, then settled down fairly early to sleep.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Tuesday 17<sup>th</sup> May</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I felt dreadful when I woke up.
Dragging myself up I forced breakfast down. I have never had trouble eating my
porridge/fruit/seed/dried milk mix before, but I had to <u>make</u> myself eat this
morning. It occurred to me that I may be dehydrated after the last couple of
days. Nik set off, and still I was not ready. I had been out to use the bothy
spade – and out again, and my stomach was heaving and flipping. I felt really
ill, and wondered what was happening to me.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I dug into my pack. Found my 1<sup>st</sup>
aid kit. Found Imodium Instants. Took two. Did a stock check. Did I have enough Immodium
to get to Newtonmore? Possibly. How much loo roll did I have? Clean knickers?
Plastic bags? I sat there seriously weighing up my state of health. I was 350
metres up the north side of Corrieyairack Pass with another 450 metres to
climb, followed by a descent of 450m in the six and a half miles to Melgarve
Bothy with a further 50m and 3 miles to where I would camp at Garva Bridge.
Could I make that under my own steam? And Newtonmore was about fourteen and a
half miles beyond that.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As I sat there, with the Imodium
in my hand I thought about going back to Fort Augustus. Thought about pulling out of the
Challenge. I remembered lying sick in my bed last year when a bug hit
profoundly. Was I going to get that ill? But, I thought, I have not thrown up.
This is just gut churn. Is it as a result of all the stresses I have put my
body through, with the heat thrown in, and dehydration. Is it adrenaline
causing me to empty out? I had some more to drink. I sat a little longer, and
the Imodium I had taken seemed to calm things down. Finally I decided to get
going – forwards to Newtonmore not back to Fort Augustus. I would see what
would happen. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There was no miracle recovery. I
struggled up and over the pass. I remember little, other than the fact that all
the work crews who had been building the new powerline last time I came through here (two years ago) were now gone, that some
of the roadway up at the highest heights seems to have been returned to the
hill. I wondered how many years the raw scars will take to heal. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n6_Zxnr30PE/V1aS6AeAmxI/AAAAAAAAAxU/2C7vOLTKisQJtuaRMcwM_j5o_3a_rBtyQCLcB/s1600/P1010450.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n6_Zxnr30PE/V1aS6AeAmxI/AAAAAAAAAxU/2C7vOLTKisQJtuaRMcwM_j5o_3a_rBtyQCLcB/s320/P1010450.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The old powerline has been removed, so the line shown on the maps is no longer there, which is a little confusing. (The new line is on the opposite side of the track than the old one was.)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With my guts all a-churn I ate
little, which may have made me feel worse still, as I was expending so much
energy climbing and later descending the track to cross the pass, which was not in a
good state of repair. I worried that the loose stones would slip, and that my
knee would give way. The weather was obviously changing, but it was clear into
the distance, and I was able to see the trees near Melgarve bothy from a long way
out. I kept moving, determined to make it, at least that far. I wanted a cup of
tea SO badly. I wanted to get out of the wind, in the bothy, where I could brew
up. I kept thinking about that cup of tea – it was as if it was a magical elixir…
Finally I got there and hauled myself through the door, dropped my pack and got
out my kitchen kit. Collecting water by the bridge I remembered 2012, when I
had come off the Corrieyairack during the viscious 'Storm Sunday', arriving like a drowned
rat here at Melgarve, and how being able to shelter, eat and sleep here had
probably saved my life. Today had been nowhere as bad, with the challenge
coming from within my body rather than from the weather. I had beaten it, I
felt, and would survive to go on.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tea has magical powers. Don’t let
anyone tell you otherwise.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Eventually, I felt strong enough
to pack up and walk on down to Garva Bridge. I threw up my tent, grabbed
something to eat and fell asleep half in, half out of my tent. A little later
Colin Reid woke me with magical words. Ian Shiel was parked across the way in
his campervan and had invited us over for soup. Wonderful! Somewhat wobbily, I
joined the grateful gang of Challengers and was fed lovely soup. Sleep had not left me
however, and I struggled to keep my eyes open at the table. Embarrassingly I
eventually had to excuse myself, knowing I was about to crash out again. Before
long, I was dead to the world.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Wednesday 18<sup>th</sup> May</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I slept long and hard. When I
woke up and took stock I could tell the worst had passed. It was wet and murky
out. I had to cook in the tent to make breakfast, then struck the tent wet, and
set off on the long trail down the road to Laggan. Every time I do that section
of road-walking it seems longer. Rain doesn’t help – although the delightful
company of William Burton did ease the passage of the miles. To my joy, the
shop in Laggan was open, and was serving food. Icecream seemed in order –
lovely lemon and blueberry icecream! And a big pot of tea. I can’t say I was back
on form, but I was feeling fairly human again by now. I wasn’t going to take
any chances however, and opted to take the road walk to Newtonmore, rather than
going up Glen Banchor. I still had the need for as early an arrival at the
hostel in Newtonmore as possible, so I could rest, eat and sleep in preparation
for my huge walk up to Glenmore tomorrow. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The walk into Newtonmore became a
one-foot-in-front-of-the-other plod as I got closer and closer to my objective,
but I kept the delights of tea and cake, a shower, then clean knickers from my
parcel and a stonking meal at the Glen Hotel at the forefront of my mind every
time I wanted to stop. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Finally I made it. The rain had stopped and I pitched my
tent on the lawn of the hostel to dry out. In the wind it didn’t take long. While it was
drying I re-organised my kit to incorporate the contents of my parcel, packed
one up for posting home and went to the Co-op for a new supply of Imodium and
one or two other bits I needed. Then it felt like it was time to eat.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aTEMYz_OeRk/V1aTOtOWNhI/AAAAAAAAAxw/hKeYQLAPm0IBs-WvceEX68LD_pDyI_FzwCKgB/s1600/P1010452.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aTEMYz_OeRk/V1aTOtOWNhI/AAAAAAAAAxw/hKeYQLAPm0IBs-WvceEX68LD_pDyI_FzwCKgB/s320/P1010452.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></div>
<br /><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It’s amazing - the restorative
power of a plate of fish and chips!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Having eaten, I felt quite bouncy
and was able to fully partake of the Challenger atmosphere at the hostel,
admiring various tents and shelters pitched on the lawn and engaging in yet
more Challenger chats until it was time for an early night.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Thursday 19<sup>th</sup> May 2016</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My alarm went off at 4.30am, and
after breakfast and a quick tidy up I was off on the most daunting of days. My
plan was to cover 22 miles with 568 metres of climbing – a HUGE distance for me to
cover with a pack. I had shaved the weight off as much as possible with this in
mind, carrying minimal food and water, relying on being able to get meals at
the SYHA Cairngorm Lodge where I was planning to stay overnight in Glenmore,
above Aviemore.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The route up to Kingussie, past
Ruthven Barracks and out to Tromie Bridge was familiar. Then I turned north,
and, sticking to the road, which was fairly quiet, made good time through
Inveruglas, past Insh and up to Feshiebridge.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My original plan had me cutting
through the forest tracks, but I was making good time on the road, my feet were
holding up quite well, and traffic was light, so I stuck on the tarmac,
plodding away rather mechanically. I have to admit to detaching my brain from
what was going on around me – my sole focus was on getting the miles done. My
only real memory of the day was having a very welcome tea and cake stop at ‘The
Potting Shed’ tearoom at Inshrach Nursery. The sign (below) was ever so welcome
mid-way through the afternoon.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YBG5ZX3cPnw/V1aTRLZU6OI/AAAAAAAAAxw/Gga8ncLT_hwVj0u01-OsI0tJg-FatW6VQCKgB/s1600/P1010455.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YBG5ZX3cPnw/V1aTRLZU6OI/AAAAAAAAAxw/Gga8ncLT_hwVj0u01-OsI0tJg-FatW6VQCKgB/s320/P1010455.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rV2jKrblTdo/V1aXD0cezPI/AAAAAAAAAx0/HGjbh8uOmhcqKHmi2Gpq88s2h9h50nYPgCLcB/s1600/Potting%2BShed%2Btea%2Broom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rV2jKrblTdo/V1aXD0cezPI/AAAAAAAAAx0/HGjbh8uOmhcqKHmi2Gpq88s2h9h50nYPgCLcB/s320/Potting%2BShed%2Btea%2Broom.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Photo from the Inshrach Nursery website</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Passing through Inverdruie and
then Coylumbridge I picked up the Old
Logging Way – which is the new cycle track I have watched them building over
recent years between Aviemore and Glenmore. Off tarmac at last I was determined
to get to the hostel in time for a meal, and kept pushing, although I was close
to exhaustion by now. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FrT0e1h6s-Q/V1aYMQHmtaI/AAAAAAAAAyI/19iYnARAKpQ7nv6sVizS2k0qWwcinGCgQCLcB/s1600/P1010456.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FrT0e1h6s-Q/V1aYMQHmtaI/AAAAAAAAAyI/19iYnARAKpQ7nv6sVizS2k0qWwcinGCgQCLcB/s320/P1010456.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was so proud of myself when I
got up to the hostel! I have never walked this far in one day carrying a backpack,
though I have come close with a daysack. The sense of relief was immense as I
dragged myself the last few steps up into reception, took off my boots and
checked in.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3T7iqKle4zs/V1aYKmIu2HI/AAAAAAAAAyA/rTR42xTwXnQMJgAixnfoyO6i9HD4UT_mwCKgB/s1600/P1010458.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3T7iqKle4zs/V1aYKmIu2HI/AAAAAAAAAyA/rTR42xTwXnQMJgAixnfoyO6i9HD4UT_mwCKgB/s320/P1010458.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I had made acquaintance with
Chris Nunn earlier in the day, and was pleased to find a fellow Challenger at
the hostel so I had someone to chat with over dinner. Soon after that I sorted
my gear for morning, put my ear plugs in and fell into a deep, well-earned
sleep.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Friday 20<sup>th</sup> May 2016</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The weather forecast was not
good. High winds and rain were expected, and I knew I was going to be climbing
a significant amount today. My plan was for 18miles with 906m of climb (and
743m of descent), so another tough day was ahead of me. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I ate as much breakfast as I
could without bursting, and set off as soon as I was able. To begin with the
day seemed benign. I worked my way up past Glenmore Lodge and into the forest
beyond, up to Lochan Uaine. Memories of visiting here with my husband a few
years ago came back to me, and I wondered again about the extraordinary green
colour of the water in the loch.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bynng8j3xzA/V1aYSX2PxkI/AAAAAAAAAyQ/2Rsi0sVXSPImKZe7KGloXGmMidLolgyiwCKgB/s1600/P1010459.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bynng8j3xzA/V1aYSX2PxkI/AAAAAAAAAyQ/2Rsi0sVXSPImKZe7KGloXGmMidLolgyiwCKgB/s320/P1010459.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Not far beyond here I paused at
the junction of tracks to take off my jacket, as I was so warm. A couple of
other walkers came past and I stood chatting with them for a few minutes. In
that short time the weather changed, wind getting up and rain threatening – so
my Paramo jacket came out of my pack instead of the Vapour-rise I had just
taken off. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Climbing gently I got to the
Strath Nethy at around about the same time as a party of school-kids, enthusiastically
trekking up the path in their bright blue uniform sweatshirts. I was thinking
how much energy they had, - and hoping they had good waterproofs in their
miniscule packs, whilst wishing I could ‘get going’ myself today. I was
grinding upwards, feeling the wind buffeting me increasingly as I climbed. I
could see the path ahead was clearly picked out on the hill, so guessed it was
well-trodden.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">From the crossing of Strath Nethy
at 430m I had to climb a mile and a half up the path onto the shoulder of
Bynack Moŕe at 790m. The wind continued to rise and squalls of sleety rain kept
blasting through, sometimes knocking me off balance. It was thoroughly
unpleasant, and I just wanted the climb to be over. I was going slowly – very much
more slowly than usual, fighting with the wind as it came roaring over from
Cairngorm.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It took me all morning to get up
onto the shoulder of Bynack Moŕe and to drop down the other side to the
crossing of Coire Odhar. Uppermost in my mind as I came off the top was “what
would my route be for the latter part of the day?” My plan was to traverse
across open country to Faindouran Lodge via Carn Dubh. The alternative was walk
to some three and a half miles further than the traverse, continuing down to
the Fords of Avon and then following the path round to Faindouran Lodge.
Potentially it would be on a path that would be easier to walk. What should I
do?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By the time I crossed the river I
needed my lunch badly. I had used masses of energy fighting against the wind,
as well as climbing, and I was wobbily and feeling sorry for myself. I found a
place to perch myself and had a break, but didn’t take off my boots as it was
wet everywhere. I continued to weigh up the options for the next section of the
route. One minute I was going to head off for Fords of Avon, the next risk the
traverse. Whilst I ate lunch and rested the sun came out. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Food is fuel. When I am stretched
to the limit I grind down, and not only do I feel my muscles working less
efficiently, but my brain seizes up too. I think runners call it ‘hitting the
wall’. I had reached that point as I came of the shoulder of Bynack Moŕe and
down to the crossing of Coire Odhar. Sitting quietly, eating lunch and resting, the sun came out again and my brain came back on line. I started to feel that I could
function again. I <u>would</u> do the traverse. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I set off up the path from the river crossing carefully counting paces to work out distance. At the point where I
thought it was time to start the traverse I got out my GPS to check position,
then took a first compass bearing. I spotted a huge boulder on the horizon in
the direction of where to walk, and set off across the rough ground, counting
paces again. It was very rough, with weather blasted tussocks interspersed with
patches of scoured peat, and in places bare rocks. I came to a lochan.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KLiWzIYEkns/V1aZrS-093I/AAAAAAAAAzU/K278loV21e0kf9-ej6Ezt92lzxIb0HUVwCKgB/s1600/P1010472.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KLiWzIYEkns/V1aZrS-093I/AAAAAAAAAzU/K278loV21e0kf9-ej6Ezt92lzxIb0HUVwCKgB/s320/P1010472.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Reaching the end of my paced leg
brought me close to the huge boulder. I wondered if the original track across
the open ground which I had been given by another Challenger had also used this
as a waypoint? Working out my next bearing I found I was looking at another
huge boulder in the distance. This firmed up my idea, as keeping an eye open
for the rock made it easier to stay online with the bearing across the peat
hags that were developing.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Whilst I climbed my way around
the worst of the boggy bits and hopped from tussocky bit to tussocky bit I
spotted not one, but two tiny lizards. I have always been fascinated by
these tiny, beautiful creatures and to be able to stop on two occasions in a
short space of time to see such wonders really raised my spirits. It is so rare
for me to catch sight of one.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My pacing got a bit ‘freestyle’ with
these distractions, but as by now I had decided the second boulder was the
objective of the second leg, I made directly for it and took a GPS reading. Not
far off! I took a bearing on the bealach I could see and compared it to the
line I had drawn on my map. They matched. Amazing! What is more, there was a convenient patch of snow to catch my eye on the line I was heading for.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I knew there was a significant
stream ahead, the ‘Glasath’. Not having been here before, and not being able to
see it yet I was rather nervous about what the drop down into the valley would
be like, and what the crossing would entail. I could see the top of the
valley-cut ahead, but nothing more. Tension mounted as I got closer and closer
and still could see nothing. Getting closer I realised that my snow patch was
sitting at the top of the stream I was due to follow into the Bealach.</span></div>
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</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-etCrOyuI7Gk/V1aZqFOa1VI/AAAAAAAAAzU/GjmPcV83dFwiiMUCoRureqA6EirHRcCawCKgB/s1600/P1010475.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-etCrOyuI7Gk/V1aZqFOa1VI/AAAAAAAAAzU/GjmPcV83dFwiiMUCoRureqA6EirHRcCawCKgB/s320/P1010475.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Eventually I got to the lip of
the very pronounced incised valley and looked down with relief. No problem.
There were several places I could descend and the stream itself was low, so I
hopped across with my boots on. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mPcKUoYZlEQ/V1aZzTZHmTI/AAAAAAAAAzg/3ObNjoskEWQyG_r0ShS3kQZBECnwZL--gCKgB/s1600/P1010477.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mPcKUoYZlEQ/V1aZzTZHmTI/AAAAAAAAAzg/3ObNjoskEWQyG_r0ShS3kQZBECnwZL--gCKgB/s320/P1010477.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Clambering up the stream to the
patch of snow I was elated. The question mark that had been in my head for so
long about this traverse was almost solved, and I had dealt with it easily. I
was almost skipping as I went over the top and started to drop down to
Faindouran Lodge. Adrenaline does funny things to you!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Getting to the bothy was not the
end of my day however. I was due to get to Ballater by the end of Saturday, and if I
stopped at the bothy I would have too far to go the next day. I HAD to push on down the
valley. The slow progress I had made during the morning had pushed me
hours behind schedule. I had originally thought that I would arrive at Faindouran
Lodge by mid afternoon. In actual fact it was nearly 6pm when I got there. Considering
my options as I dropped down to the bothy I decided to have my evening meal
there, but then to push on down the valley as far as I could get while it was
light. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Various people had told me how
difficult it was to find suitable pitches down this valley, so it was with some
trepidation that I set off again, determined to put some more miles away before
stopping for the night. I covered about three more miles when it started to
rain. By now I was really tired and rather fed-up. Spotting a tiny patch of
green close to the path I set up my tent, clambered down to the river to
collect water, had some supper and crashed out for the night.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Saturday 21<sup>st</sup> May 2016</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Waking early I knew I could not hang around at all today as I had a room booked in Ballater, and I was miles
higher up the valley than I should have been. Cloud hung low on the hills,
threatening more nasty weather as I set off. The track along Glen Avon was,
however, mainly very ‘walkable’ being well maintained by the estate. In some
places the surface was loose, but it was generally well consolidated. There were a
few significant climbs, such as below Cnap Allt an Laoigh where a new deer
fence has closed off access to the lower track.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jhCUM-aM2cw/V1aaPhLlijI/AAAAAAAAAzg/2yF382JIuQUFh089oOzCcKu53mOw_qq6gCKgB/s1600/P1010489.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jhCUM-aM2cw/V1aaPhLlijI/AAAAAAAAAzg/2yF382JIuQUFh089oOzCcKu53mOw_qq6gCKgB/s320/P1010489.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here it is necessary to climb up
the higher track marked on the map,but the track was OK underfoot. I set up
quite a good rhythm and made good time down to the Linn of Avon.</span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eyHZ-xzhcEE/V1aaQBoXuVI/AAAAAAAAAzg/AVwQBEIYh6UcNFo7MeIGfUqru3FHY4IwwCKgB/s1600/P1010493.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eyHZ-xzhcEE/V1aaQBoXuVI/AAAAAAAAAzg/AVwQBEIYh6UcNFo7MeIGfUqru3FHY4IwwCKgB/s320/P1010493.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Near the junction I bumped into
Chris Nunn again. He had pitched here for the night. For future reference,
there are lots of good pitches around here. Turning southwards, I now entered
Glen Builg. The weather was deteriorating, wind howling up and squalls
rattling through. It got wetter and wetter underfoot, and eventually I got to a
river crossing that was too deep to manage with my boots on. I had seen other
Challengers cross in trail shoes, but I still had dry boots and socks, and had kept
them that way all the way across Scotland so far. It didn’t take me long to decide to take
my boots off and cross in sandals.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">OH MY WORD it was cold. Screaming
involuntarily with the pain, I exited the water and walked on till I found
somewhere to sit and sort my feet out. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Shortly after this I encountered
a party of Geordie mountain bikers coming the other way. I asked them if there
were any more high rivers to ford. They said no, but that it was very boggy
ahead. They were right. It was very wet underfoot – and squalls kept flailing
me from above. Sometimes they were so intense that the only thing you could do
was turn your back and wait for the worst to pass. The mile or so alongside the
loch was ‘difficult’ to manage. On a calm dry day it is probably a delight to
walk. On this occasion I could not wait to get out of there.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Reaching the head of the loch
there is a funny area of broken ground interspersed by a number of lochans.
Parked by one of them was a grey Ford Focus. A man was fishing – and his friend
sat in the shelter of the car eating a pork pie. I stopped briefly to chat with
him through the car window, then headed on down towards Ballater. I had in mind
to stop at the bothy marked on the map at Corndavon Lodge to brew up some tea,
but it was closed up. In the end I got in close to the buildings to get out of
the wind a bit for a rest and something to eat, but didn’t brew up since I wasn’t
really sheltered.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I trotted on down the valley. Now
I was just trying to cover ground as fast as possible, but the day wore on and
still I had miles and miles to go. This was always going to be a long day, but it began
to feel impossible. I didn’t want the hotel to be worried about my late
arrival. By my reckoning, at the rate I was going, it would take me till 9pm to
get into Ballater. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Mulling over what to do I saw a
telephone symbol on the map near Gairnshiel Lodge. I would head there and ring
the hotel, then see what I could do. I headed for that location.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There is something
heart-stoppingly-awful about finding a phone box with no phone. I wanted to
cry. For ages I had in my mind the thought that I could let the hotel know when
I got to the phone, and that then everything would be alright. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I saw a house nearby with an open
door., Perhaps they had a phone. Tentatively, I went through the gate, up to
the house and knocked on the door. Shouted hellos. No answer. No sound of life.
Feeling a bit embarrassed, I turned back to the road and walked away. I walked
on a bit more, turning into Glen Gairn. My mobile phone came to life! At last I
was able to ring the hotel. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Very ashamed, I asked them if
they could organise me a taxi. (I had pushed myself to the limit again and had
very little left for another couple of hours of walking. Tomorrow was a planned
rest day, so if I did get a lift to Ballater, then I could come back up here and complete
the walk I should do now.) The kind lady on reception said she would try, and
that she would ring me back. Fingers crossed, I waited for her call. When it
came, there was disappointment. There was only one taxi available and he was
working on a wedding, so no, I couldn’t get a lift. The lady then suggested
something I had never, ever done – to “flag someone down and ask for a lift”.
It had never entered my mind to hitch. I thanked her and said I would get there
whenever I could.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I set off walking, accepting the
idea that I wouldn’t get there till about nine o’clock, and that there would be
no nice meal for me tonight. Several cars passed, and I did stick out my thumb,
but no-one slowed down. I toddled on, getting down to Torbeg. Just coming out
of the trees there I tried my thumb again – and this time my luck was in. A
kind local in a Range Rover picked me up and ran me right down into Ballater.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Getting to the hotel was such a
relief. I was there in time to eat in the bar, and joy of joys, my room had a
BATH!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Sunday 22<sup>nd</sup> May 2016</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Scheduled as my rest day, after
breakfast and a quick visit to the Co-op for food to take for lunch, I set off back up the glen to cover the ground
I had missed by hitching a lift last night.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Arriving back in Ballater at around
lunchtime I strolled along the old line walk near the river and ate a picnic in
the woods. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JS0Ypy19bnA/V1aeQpltupI/AAAAAAAAAzo/3TKs6-wxiEYdDcC1jPI37mC0ZM9hZucdACLcB/s1600/Pipes%2Bin%2BBallater.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JS0Ypy19bnA/V1aeQpltupI/AAAAAAAAAzo/3TKs6-wxiEYdDcC1jPI37mC0ZM9hZucdACLcB/s320/Pipes%2Bin%2BBallater.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Returning to the village I
strolled around the stalls which has been set up on the green by the church for the village's annual ‘Duck
Race day’ and watched the Pipe Band perform, – until a thunderstorm led to me
racing for cover. It didn't take much effort deciding what to do instead: I had an afternoon snooze.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The evening passed in a typically
Challenge manner with food, beverages and chat about gear, the afternoon’s
rain, gear, where we had been, gear, various injuries people had suffered or
were suffering, gear, the places we were going to go to, gear, interesting
things we had seen and heard, gear, wildlife encountered, gear…. Suffice to say
that the company was affable at The Alexandra Hotel that night!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Monday 23<sup>rd</sup> May</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A rib-sticking breakfast set me
up well for the day, and after checking out I set off again, enjoying walking
out from Ballater and through the woods. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B7oP6Qb_mbo/V1afIEWOivI/AAAAAAAAA0E/hZnDsEWscpkUfjcfWZlWiyo1IlUlyyDjgCLcB/s1600/P1010508.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B7oP6Qb_mbo/V1afIEWOivI/AAAAAAAAA0E/hZnDsEWscpkUfjcfWZlWiyo1IlUlyyDjgCLcB/s320/P1010508.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify;">It was hot. Much hotter than I
had expected, and soon I paused to change out of my Paramo trousers into
something cooler. I carried on over the shoulder of Craig Vallich and Lach na
Gualainn, heading for Mount Keen.</span><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1nmNd7IgXyQ/V1afH9VEuEI/AAAAAAAAAz8/0BoK1JYom14pJsUVNuNjLJTLC2_OHY0TACKgB/s1600/P1010512.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1nmNd7IgXyQ/V1afH9VEuEI/AAAAAAAAAz8/0BoK1JYom14pJsUVNuNjLJTLC2_OHY0TACKgB/s320/P1010512.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Stopping for lunch by an iron
gate left standing in the middle of no-where, I was really able to enjoy the
view of the hills. It felt good to be alive.</span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2MH2dLI_sfU/V1afE3pkArI/AAAAAAAAAz0/6v6DVA_vAlAAk4ixzCm62cZHEdYp8nyFgCKgB/s1600/P1010514.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2MH2dLI_sfU/V1afE3pkArI/AAAAAAAAAz0/6v6DVA_vAlAAk4ixzCm62cZHEdYp8nyFgCKgB/s320/P1010514.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Unfortunately, I then took my eye
off the ball. After lunch I did not check my position or my bearing before
dropping down to the Shiel of Glantanar. For the next few hours, I trundled on
my merry way, which seemed to be proceeding according to plan. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">At about four o’clock I realised
that the rather unpleasant track I was climbing, was heading in
completely the wrong direction. Rapidly coming out of my daydream I did some
proper navigation for the first time that day and ascertained my position and
the huge error I had made. I had actually climbed not up the Mounth Road, in a
southerly direction towards Mount Keen, but had come off the hill into the
Shiel of Glentanar in completely the wrong place, then gone east up the track
past Red Craig and Black Craig.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Suffice it to say I was cross
with myself.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I decided I had two options.
First was to keep the height I had attained under great duress, and work my way
around past Gathering Cairn and Cock Cairn to the Mounth Road. I was very
dubious about this option as I was unfamiliar with the ground and the weather
was deteriorating rapidly. My second option was to descend and get myself onto
the correct route. The delay in doing so would mean I could not make my
original finish time of Wednesday unless I killed myself for the next couple of
days. I realised that as I was not committed to being in Montrose until Thursday, I
could adjust my plans and still finish without too much grief. I sat down
for a little while and ate a crunch bar, weighing up the options. If it had
been fine weather I may have been more inclined to risk the first option, but
the wind was getting up and things looked quite threatening, weather wise.
Sadly, I decided to drop back down (losing all the height that I had clawed
myself up earlier on that horrible path) and repositioning myself in the
CORRECT place, ready for a prompt start in the morning. Then, instead of going
just to Queens Well, my original objective for the night, I would walk to
Tarfside. The benefit then was that I could visit St Drostans, enjoy the
company of a lot of like minded Challengers, and thence take the
Edzell-Northwater Bridge route out to the sea on Wednesday and Thursday. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As I ate my snack I had time look
down into the valley to work out exactly where I was aiming. I started to look for possible pitching spots. Suddenly, I realised I could see what may be people
moving about on a nice looking green space way in the distance. Could it be…? I got out my
monocular and had a good look. Yes! There were a number of Challengers, and flock of tiny tents already pitched, just where I was thinking of going.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H_5eruqXILg/V1af-R4d7RI/AAAAAAAAA0Q/9Bx-bG6ZNPMRdBL4TJ8I4wazzRZRQ-fUQCLcB/s1600/P1010519.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H_5eruqXILg/V1af-R4d7RI/AAAAAAAAA0Q/9Bx-bG6ZNPMRdBL4TJ8I4wazzRZRQ-fUQCLcB/s320/P1010519.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">That made up my mind. I WOULD
descend, spend the night here and regroup. Tomorrow I would aim for Tarfside,
and inform Challenge Control of my change of plan. A disaster to begin with,
but I really liked the idea of spending the last few days surrounded by other
Challengers. With that thought I set off downhill.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It is amazing how much more
quickly you descend a hill than you climb it. By about half past five I had got
down to the grassy area near the bridge and told my story to those who were
there. No-one laughed at me (at least not to my face) about my stupidity, and
several had stories of their own navigational slips to share. Soon I had my
tent up and a meal inside me.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was just settling down for the
night when Alistair Pooler came up to tell me excitedly that he had been down
by the river and seen an otter. What a fabulous thing for him to see. We are so
lucky to be so close to nature while doing the Challenge. My high spot had been
the two lizards on Friday, but an otter – WOW! With that thought I slept, and
slept very soundly indeed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Tuesday 24<sup>th</sup> May 2016.</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After quickly breakfasting and
striking camp I was very careful to check my bearings as I set off in the
morning across the bridge. I checked and double and checked that I was indeed climbing
the right hill this time! The cloud was low and everywhere was soggy, but I
soon got warm with my climb.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZCjWvKJHbgc/V1ahTv7ogEI/AAAAAAAAA1M/yO55_yR_kzgKkUnZFpY7lWkxoQgKOgeewCKgB/s1600/P1010523.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZCjWvKJHbgc/V1ahTv7ogEI/AAAAAAAAA1M/yO55_yR_kzgKkUnZFpY7lWkxoQgKOgeewCKgB/s320/P1010523.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This route, new for me, was one
of my main objectives of this year’s crossing. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">All along I had been determined to get here fit enough to do this section on the Mounth Road over to Glen Mark. I had managed to keep my feet intact, no blisters, and my knees were still functioning, although creaking a bit. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I didn’t have particular desire
to actually get to the summit of Mount Keen. With the cloud so low
I knew I wouldn’t see anything if I did climb all the way to the top (939m),
and was happy to take the path due south over the shoulder, topping out at
760m.</span></div>
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</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y6fHY4IvHsk/V1ahRYwJvCI/AAAAAAAAA1M/_DjmaS2vsKMoQnKCdWnr7-qx2Ej9H2A6QCKgB/s1600/P1010527.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y6fHY4IvHsk/V1ahRYwJvCI/AAAAAAAAA1M/_DjmaS2vsKMoQnKCdWnr7-qx2Ej9H2A6QCKgB/s320/P1010527.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Once I got up to the top of my
climb I began to enjoy myself, with some of the early sections of descent being
particularly easy to move on. I fairly trotted my way for a good mile, before
things got steeper and steeper and steeper. Suddenly I was in the zig-zags
above Ladder Burn, stunned by the impressive way the path was gouged into the
hillside. There was quite a lot of evidence of damage from last winter’s
storms, with some particularly impressive landslip debris across the valley to
the path.</span></div>
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</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HSFfK5ZZDbM/V1aivIzw_RI/AAAAAAAAA1U/-T4GpvQ04g02EfOb48PYH6GaukD8hui-ACLcB/s1600/P1010533.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HSFfK5ZZDbM/V1aivIzw_RI/AAAAAAAAA1U/-T4GpvQ04g02EfOb48PYH6GaukD8hui-ACLcB/s320/P1010533.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The valley there is very deeply incised.
I was lucky to be on a path (even though it was loose in places), and remembered
the struggle I had a couple of years ago when I came over from Glen Clova, coming
off the hill and heading north-west into the Shank of Inchgrundle, just south
of Loch Lee, just a few miles away. At the worst point on the zig-zag I paused
to collect myself just as a mountain bike hurtled down the path – and came off
on the corner. Luckily the rider wasn’t badly hurt, and he soon disappeared
downwards.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The transition from hill to Glen
was quite sudden, and once I got onto the estate track I was able to make good
time past Glenmark and Queens Well, my original target for the end of Monday, <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LUwR9Me1GmM/V1ag3Le1sVI/AAAAAAAAA1Q/lvIsQVaNMGEs0EyLJyD69v6r9tkslkB1gCKgB/s1600/P1010537b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LUwR9Me1GmM/V1ag3Le1sVI/AAAAAAAAA1Q/lvIsQVaNMGEs0EyLJyD69v6r9tkslkB1gCKgB/s320/P1010537b.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I carried straight on down the
valley towards Invermark, making good time. Coming down the path to Auchronie I
was fascinated to see a small flock of strange grey birds which I later found
out were guinea fowl rooting free-range.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WYIqVKWkTwA/V1ahNZZTw6I/AAAAAAAAA1M/Hzeet1nrLSsCW56A-1D8EV_9R7y43fg4wCKgB/s1600/P1010539b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="251" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WYIqVKWkTwA/V1ahNZZTw6I/AAAAAAAAA1M/Hzeet1nrLSsCW56A-1D8EV_9R7y43fg4wCKgB/s320/P1010539b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Passing the big house there I saw
a ‘walking bus’ of Challengers passing the end of the lane. I hurried to catch
up with them, but they were moving far too fast for me, and soon I dropped back
to my normal pace for the last section past the Hill of Rowan and into
Tarfside.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The sight of St Drostan’s Hostel
(which operates only during the Challenge thanks to dedicated members of the
Hill and Mountain Walking Club) was very welcome, and I called in for tea and
cake. To my delight, there was a bed available in one of the small rooms, and
soon I was in a shower. A communal meal in the kitchen of the hostel was
followed by a visit to The Masons, and before long I was tucked up in the land
of nod!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Wednesday 25<sup>th</sup> May
2016</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Setting off bright and early I
trundled down the Esk valley, first on the road and then through the woodland
path from the Rocks of Solitude. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EPWW_AAJE5M/V1ahuNF3AxI/AAAAAAAAA1Q/9s4KrU7jcuotoXViY50tfkFZhNK-focJQCKgB/s1600/P1010543.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EPWW_AAJE5M/V1ahuNF3AxI/AAAAAAAAA1Q/9s4KrU7jcuotoXViY50tfkFZhNK-focJQCKgB/s320/P1010543.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The last leg through the trees
close to Edzell is always beautiful, and today was no exception.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HFc_1pGdGNk/V1ahxOxsQzI/AAAAAAAAA1Q/Cs7Suicju8ov-BQUOW0soymaX-Piq3JsQCKgB/s1600/P1010547.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HFc_1pGdGNk/V1ahxOxsQzI/AAAAAAAAA1Q/Cs7Suicju8ov-BQUOW0soymaX-Piq3JsQCKgB/s320/P1010547.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was, however, quite
mind-boggling to see how high the flood debris was caught in the trees beside
the river. The floods last winter had been so destructive everywhere, and the
sheer amount of evidence everywhere of the power of water was awe-inspiring.
Looking at the current height of the river – and then the height of the debris
in the trees gave some concept of the massive volume of water that had been
passing down here. Stunning.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_u_NZjLVscU/V1aj0yBHBXI/AAAAAAAAA1g/uinKzhzrFWcYymOe3lZFwwjDB2dZ7tSUQCLcB/s1600/P1010549.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_u_NZjLVscU/V1aj0yBHBXI/AAAAAAAAA1g/uinKzhzrFWcYymOe3lZFwwjDB2dZ7tSUQCLcB/s320/P1010549.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The twelve miles from Tarfside to
Edzell have become familiar over the years – but the anticipation of lunch at
the ‘Tuck Inn’ keeps the mind focused! This eatery is very popular with Challengers, as can be seen by the picture below...</span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oZb7g4D1w6o/V1aj0zCebtI/AAAAAAAAA14/7RhiAvPU1MsPSI_cGv5KDsHTur3XZNkSACKgB/s1600/P1010550.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oZb7g4D1w6o/V1aj0zCebtI/AAAAAAAAA14/7RhiAvPU1MsPSI_cGv5KDsHTur3XZNkSACKgB/s320/P1010550.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After a meal which although
simple, tasted fabulous, served by the friendly staff of the Tuck Inn, I took
myself to the shop, stocked up for my last evening and the last leg to Montrose,
then set off to North Water Bridge. This walk-out is renowned in Challenger
legend as a long road walk – however by cutting round farm tracks it is much
more pleasant, and soon I reached my objective.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A party atmosphere fell on the
Challengers as the last evening drew on and we consumed the goodies people had
picked up from the shop in Edzell. As twilight approached I could feel my eyes
closing, so I soon adjourned.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Thursday 26th May 2016</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My last morning dawned grey, and windy.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sA0sD0j3H_0/V1akVXGJNsI/AAAAAAAAA2I/3A1pnXzr54cC_exKPQHejCc-S-HnUd2xQCKgB/s1600/P1010554.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sA0sD0j3H_0/V1akVXGJNsI/AAAAAAAAA2I/3A1pnXzr54cC_exKPQHejCc-S-HnUd2xQCKgB/s320/P1010554.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With some regret I struck camp
for the last time (as I was to stay in a hotel once I got to Montrose). Saying
goodbye to Challengers is never easy – but the moment was given a huge boost of
levity when Mike Gillespie (about to complete his tenth crossing and to become
a ‘Leg-end’) suddenly appeared in his kilt, and we realised his team mate Dave
Perry was likewise donning his! Much hilarity ensued, (as is often the case
when they are around).</span></div>
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</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MQvgGazsidQ/V1aknQHJoQI/AAAAAAAAA2U/eRpoO7RzUHgYYj_K3FDpTnFMn6iZjgs0QCKgB/s1600/P1010560.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MQvgGazsidQ/V1aknQHJoQI/AAAAAAAAA2U/eRpoO7RzUHgYYj_K3FDpTnFMn6iZjgs0QCKgB/s320/P1010560.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We never did get to see the legs
of the third party member Michael Hossack, but a number of us did gather for
celebratory photographs before we left for the day as a ‘walking bus’, heading
for the coast.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1ZtCNezUYjQ/V1aknA_qR1I/AAAAAAAAA2U/F233mJyK01AEbCjV6Xv4ATeYR6w8mlRjwCKgB/s1600/P1010564.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1ZtCNezUYjQ/V1aknA_qR1I/AAAAAAAAA2U/F233mJyK01AEbCjV6Xv4ATeYR6w8mlRjwCKgB/s320/P1010564.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I soon realised that I had walked
this way twice before, and thought I would like to see some new ground for this
last leg, so I quietly dropped out. I discovered a lovely route, turning south
at the railway bridge at Broomley. First I walked on the footpath beside the
road through North Craigo.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-prmGsvI73Yc/V1alBSeqZzI/AAAAAAAAA2o/DDKSu5p0dI05_fftKw7D8MEStiJSkS6wgCKgB/s1600/P1010565.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-prmGsvI73Yc/V1alBSeqZzI/AAAAAAAAA2o/DDKSu5p0dI05_fftKw7D8MEStiJSkS6wgCKgB/s320/P1010565.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I stopped for a rest on a
convenient bench by the war memorial there before cutting through the woods to
Hillside on what must have been the old road.</span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Mt0yDEOXL24/V1alUIt4jXI/AAAAAAAAA3E/_k-2_eB_BKICAx781Zw6B0TgbyFavq7LgCKgB/s1600/P1010566.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Mt0yDEOXL24/V1alUIt4jXI/AAAAAAAAA3E/_k-2_eB_BKICAx781Zw6B0TgbyFavq7LgCKgB/s320/P1010566.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">From here it was an easy stroll
through the outskirts of Montrose and onto the sand dunes, finally arriving at
the beach near the South Links golf course. There was no-one around! The wind
was blowing strongly, and I suspect the dog-walkers had all taken shelter. The
beach was absolutely empty.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n7b4OD-Phys/V1alUfJUyLI/AAAAAAAAA3E/kJbjeLAXKlsLN8yrwFs6Tqhqe4tYxWO0gCKgB/s1600/P1010567.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n7b4OD-Phys/V1alUfJUyLI/AAAAAAAAA3E/kJbjeLAXKlsLN8yrwFs6Tqhqe4tYxWO0gCKgB/s320/P1010567.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Trotting down the steps to the
beach I had to remind myself to be careful as they were greasy with seaweed. It
wouldn’t do for me to manage my whole crossing without ‘breaking’ myself, only
to slip on the last little bit!</span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NxIUwAupc6s/V1alujaW_0I/AAAAAAAAA3Q/-H587_hfBrg9A-wuzmtxAXuCJvFjGgIIACKgB/s1600/P1010569.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NxIUwAupc6s/V1alujaW_0I/AAAAAAAAA3Q/-H587_hfBrg9A-wuzmtxAXuCJvFjGgIIACKgB/s320/P1010569.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The tide was out, and I crossed
to the water, smelling the sea and enjoying the sight of the waves breaking
roughly ahead.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Then, I stood at the water’s edge
…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ofx6U4gRGXE/V1al_PUCEwI/AAAAAAAAA3U/YFkegkLLx2gEg6lY0YffUSU_0fj3On85QCKgB/s1600/P1010573.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ofx6U4gRGXE/V1al_PUCEwI/AAAAAAAAA3U/YFkegkLLx2gEg6lY0YffUSU_0fj3On85QCKgB/s320/P1010573.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">… and danced about a bit in the
water…</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G0FX3YLAW_M/V1amBQJW__I/AAAAAAAAA3U/8xPCJNDD0uU0NKfn7_Y1YUHKg1j2k4G7ACKgB/s1600/P1010574.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G0FX3YLAW_M/V1amBQJW__I/AAAAAAAAA3U/8xPCJNDD0uU0NKfn7_Y1YUHKg1j2k4G7ACKgB/s320/P1010574.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">…until I finally calmed down a
bit. I had done it again. My fifth crossing was complete.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-USqW5J2wny4/V1amLpR4esI/AAAAAAAAA3U/eI62QhFXilYfC0khBvnGeueCn3BQhRS-wCKgB/s1600/P1010576.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-USqW5J2wny4/V1amLpR4esI/AAAAAAAAA3U/eI62QhFXilYfC0khBvnGeueCn3BQhRS-wCKgB/s320/P1010576.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Turning and slowly walking back
to the slippy steps I realised I was being blown off-course by the wind, it was
so strong. I had managed to walk all the way across Scotland, and now I found
crossing a little bit of beach a struggle. Strange. Eventually I clambered back
up the slippy steps and spotted a café. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">To celebrate, I went for a cup of
tea before making the obligatory trip to Challenge Control to sign out, and
meeting yet more old friends at The Park Hotel.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> <span style="background-color: white;"> _________________________</span></span></o:p></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Challenge is an obsession. It
stretches you to the limit, makes you do things you didn’t realise you could
do, taxes your physical strength and endurance, builds your resilience and
sometimes puts you in a very real position where risk is involved. But it also
brings a shared community with other Challengers, one which I have found to be
quite unique. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So. Where shall I start Challenge
number six?</span><o:p></o:p></div>
Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17936841596623221054noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3855601948400120759.post-81874322054686911702016-04-04T00:20:00.001-07:002016-04-04T00:20:39.130-07:00TGOC 2016 Shakedown: Cleveland Way <div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Preamble</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Doing the TGO Challenge last year (2015) was hard graft from
day one – I just had not been able to put enough time into training. I ended up 'walking wounded', limping home feeling rather poorly and sorry for myself, and took a long time to get fit again afterwards.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Being completely mad, of course I applied to do the Challenge again in 2016. Having
secured a place, I now want my fifth crossing to be much more
enjoyable, more like 2014. Then, I had been able to train hard, and was well
prepared. This time I was determined to be in a better state of readiness, so
my training plan began in earnest in the New Year, with lots of gym based work. I
also worked with my sports physio, Stephen Lane, at Summit Physio in Bolton, to address the problems I have been having with my right knee. I
built several stepping stones into my journey to fitness:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</div>
<ul>
<li style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-stretch: normal; text-indent: -18pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;">A trip to Glenmore Lodge near Aviemore in
February to do their Winter Skills course.</span></li>
<li style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-stretch: normal; text-indent: -18pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;">The TGO Spring Reunion at Snake Pass Inn – which
was an adventure itself as the road there was blocked by snow. That made for a
memorable weekend - but is a completely different story to this one.</span></li>
<li style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-stretch: normal; text-indent: -18pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;">My Easter amble this year, The Cleveland Way, was chosen because it
has a fair amount of climbing as well as distance. (110 miles)</span></li>
<li style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-stretch: normal; text-indent: -18pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;">A weekend meet of the Hill and Mountain Walking
Club in April.</span></li>
</ul>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Monday 21<sup>st</sup>
March<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">An early start saw Ron chauffeuring me to Helmsley in
Yorkshire to start the Cleveland Way. Cold weather forecast, but settled for
the next few days. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here is me beside the monument at the start in my new ‘foxglove’
Paramo jacket. (Looking at the picture it seems worryingly bright – but perhaps
that is just because I have worn blue for so very many years!) The hat isn't very flattering either - but is lovely and soft and warm. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Note that I have gone back to a tent rather than my
Trailstar, so have now got a clingon below my rucsac. Although there isn’t much
difference in weight between my new Zephyros 1 and the combined weights of my
previous Trailstar, groundsheet and bivi bag, it is easier to carry the
Zephyros as a roll below my tent rather than split up. Leaving everything together
should make pitching and striking very simple. Being as how I have only pitched
in the garden up to now, that theory has yet to be tested!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Having waved Ron off, I set off on my trundle, happily
contemplating time out of the hamster-wheel of work and electronic
communications. Delight!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The first place of note I passed was Rievaulx Abbey. Many
moons ago I came here on a school trip. I did not stop here today as I wanted to get
some distance under my belt, but took photos of the site from the path and kept going. I
found the relentless climb from Helmsley to the visitor centre at Sutton Bank
hard work. It took me longer than I had expected, but this was the
first time in 2015 year that I had walked with a <b><u>full</u></b> pack: tent, sleeping gear,
kitchen gear, change of clothes, safety gear and food for 3 days. On top of
that I had about 2 litres of water. Worryingly, by the time I got there, and
treated myself to a cup of tea and a fruit flapjack, my left foot had started
to hurt quite badly. In years gone by I have had bad blisters on the balls of
my feet exactly this spot. I gave my feet a breather out of my boots while I was in the cafe, and a bit
of a massage, then pushed I on. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The view from the top of Sutton Bank is spectacular.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The
Yorkshire National Parks staff have done a fabulous job of developing a well
maintained path network in the area. I was feeling the weight of my pack, and
as I walked on my right foot started hurting too. I got a bit grumpy, despite
the lovely scenery.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pushing northwards I headed for my first overnight pitch at
High Paradise Farm. I was very tired when I saw their first signs beside the
trackway welcoming visitors with boots, bikes and hooves. I thought that boded
well! However my heart sank as I climbed and climbed and climbed, reduced to a
mere trudge as I ground on upwards. I had a flashback to camping at <span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border-image-outset: initial; border-image-repeat: initial; border-image-slice: initial; border-image-source: initial; border-image-width: initial; border: 1pt none windowtext; padding: 0cm;">Faichemard Farm near
Invergarry on TGOC 2012, the night before Storm Sunday. That was another place
you had to climb and climb and climb up to at the end of a long day.</span><b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border-image-outset: initial; border-image-repeat: initial; border-image-slice: initial; border-image-source: initial; border-image-width: initial; border: 1pt none windowtext; padding: 0cm;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My first impressions from the signs were well founded. A
lovely family run the place. I was the only camper there that night. The owner
let me use her tea room to have somewhere to sit during the evening, so I
didn’t have to spend all my time in the tent. (It was too cold to sit out.) The
only downside on this site was that the farm’s geese were rather noisy –
sounded like they were scrapping repeatedly during the night! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tuesday 22<sup>nd</sup>
March<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Although my feet were still sore I felt much better in the
morning, and set off with a bounce in my step up onto the ‘Little Moor’ then
Arden Great Moor. I love moorland walking, especially when you can see for
miles and miles. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The paths were still in great condition, following the
easterly ‘edge’ of the Cleveland hills. I am not sure of the exact geology
there, but it seems to be an escarpment edge with a range of summits including
Whitestone (371m) and Black Hambleton (398m) There was quite a lot of climbing
and descent. I decided I had nothing to gain by dropping down into Osmotherley,
so stayed up on the moorland paths past Solomon’s Temple and over Pamperdale
Moor, picking up the line of the Lyke Wake Walk for a while. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">From the open aspects of the high moorland I dropped into
woodland at Clain Wood. What a contrast!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I think it was on the Scugdale Beck where I saw considerable
evidence of the winter flood damage. In particular there was a lot of wash-out
around a bridge, with undercutting and some compromising of the bridge abutments.
(Notice that they are obviously used to flooding here, as there is a footbridge
several feet higher up above the main bridge that is on the track.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I stopped for a lunchtime break and got my boots off. My
feet had been giving me trouble all morning so I gave them a really deep
massage and left my socks off until they started to freeze in the wind.
Amazingly, when I set off again the pain had subsided. Don’t know what I had
done, but miraculously the awful pain had gone, and did not resurface for the
rest of the trip.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By the time I got into the later afternoon I was getting a
bit fed up of the constant climbing and descending – although I had chosen the
Cleveland Way particularly because of this trait, and knowing it was good
training for me. I climbed up onto a ridgeway (Round Hill, Live Moor, Gold Hill
Faceby Bank and Carlton Bank) where I could once again see for miles and miles.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In the distance I could see plumes of smoke as gamekeepers
burnt off areas of old heather. I didn’t mind them in the distance – then
noticed that there was a set of fires that were not too far from my route.
Fingers crossed, and with my heart thumping I carried on. Surely they would not
set fires where walkers were likely to go? I have to admit being glad to get
past there!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My target for the night was a campsite at Lord Stones
Country Park. I had spoken to them on the phone previously – so was somewhat
perturbed when I arrived at 5.30 pm to find everything locked up and a ‘closed’
sign on the main door. Luckily I saw someone inside and tried the handle. I
surprised a lady who obviously had not been told to expect me. She was very
concerned that she had cashed up for the day and was about to go – so I said
could she not just take my fee and cash it tomorrow? She agreed, and then went
searching for the code for the toilet block door. It took a while, but eventually
she found it, and pointed me in the general direction to go and pitch. I
wandered off, and found myself a quiet corner, not far from a rather murky
looking pond. There wasn’t a soul around. A bit spooky, but the toilet block
was near to my tent and was warm and clean. I pitched my tent and had a meal,
then went for a lovely shower. As there was no-one around, and the toilet block
was warm I hung my towel up and left it overnight – dry in the morning!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As I settled down in my tent I was aware of a strange noise,
a bit like the bubbles that pour out from the oxygenating system in an
aquarium. I couldn’t figure it out, but decided it came from the pond. I
wondered what on earth was happening, and if it was because the water was so
murky, and they were trying to filter it somehow? With that thought I fell
asleep. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Wednesday 23<sup>rd</sup>
March<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As happens, I rose early, needing to mind my business.
Returning to the tent, it was just getting light. I could hear that bubbling
noise, so decided to investigate. Approaching the pond I suddenly saw a flash
of bodies in the water – frogs or toads – lots of them, and doing what comes
naturally to them at this time of year! My arrival sent them into flight, and
they lurked, just below the surface. The noise, which I had been aware of all
night long stopped the moment they scattered, so I concluded that it had
something to do with their mating rituals.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After a quick breakfast I struck my tent and set off. I
climbed up the nearby Cringle Moor (432m) and set off along Kirkby Bank,
another escarpment edge.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I could see both from the map and the view ahead that the morning was going to be a whole set
of steep climbs followed by equally steep descents – and my poor knees were
already protesting. While high up on the bank I noticed a track below, running
parallel, at the foot of the escarpment. Looking at the map I saw it was marked parallel-ish all the way to Clay Bank
– so when I dropped down to the bottom of Kirkby Bank, I picked up the lower
track instead. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This decision may have been of great benefit to my knees.
However, it has to be said that the path along the hills was in fairly good
condition – whilst the woodland path below was a gloopy horrible mess for much
of the time. I slipped and slithered and plodged through nasty sticky mud most
of the rest of the morning. However, life is about compromises, and walking
often brings this kind of dilemma. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My day ended at Park Farm in Kildale. This was a lovely
little farm campsite, (with a Camping Barn too, for future reference). The
farmer had milk and eggs I could buy, my resupply parcel had arrived, and there
was a room in the farm buildings where I could use a kettle and microwave, as
well as a toilet and shower! Luxury!!!!!! While I was making my tea a party of
DofE expeditioners turned up. If I thought I was tired, it was nothing when
compared to them! They may have been sharing carrying the camping gear, but
their tents were HUGE, and must have weighed a ton. From odd things I overheard
I thing they were a group of girls from a private school, and they were not at
all used to roughing it! Poor lambs!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Thursday 24<sup>th</sup>
March<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I decided before setting off that I was not going to climb
Roseberry Topping. It was interesting to see its outline change with aspect as
I approached it. I believe there is a slab of gritstone at the top, which has
led to its distinctive shape developing.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I set off really early in the morning – and had a delightful
first few hours once I climbed up onto the moors. Sadly there was a little
rain, but nothing too uncomfortable. The majority of the walking was lovely. It
dried up enough for me to have a late lunch/brew-stop. Perfect!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My happiness with life diminished during the afternoon.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Climbing up the escarpment above Guisborough I was hit by
very strong wind, trying to buffet me off the top. The trees marked on the map
had been cut, leaving the path very exposed to the wind. It was so bad it was
scary. I scuttled along as quickly as I was able until I got to where the trees
had not been cut – and heaved a huge sigh of relief! Knowing I was at a high
spot above a town I thought there would be a phone signal. There was – so I took the opportunity to ring
home to talk to Ron. Gradually the fear I had felt, exposed on top of the
escarpment, faded, and I began to feel human again.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A bit further on the forestry operations had completely
mangled up the Cleveland Way itself – not to mention dumping a huge number of
discarded tree boughs on the roadway. I had to divert a bit and for a little
way was not quite sure where I was. It is always the same when forestry is cut
– the going gets difficult. It is so sad seeing the blighted area that is left
afterwards. I know it is usually replanted – but that is not immediate, and the
scar left is horrible.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Towards the end of the day, coming down through Spa Wood there
is a Trials Bike centre right beside the Cleveland Way. The footpath is fenced
off, obviously to keep the bikes off the pathway. Unfortunately, there is a
whole sequence of squeeze gates along this section – and most of them are too
tight to get a rucsac through! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oC94qIxOksA/VwIKQB9NPGI/AAAAAAAAAsg/9JWtuE16z-QyrN_uV6h9DOLRx2aEGlUgg/s1600/P1010228.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oC94qIxOksA/VwIKQB9NPGI/AAAAAAAAAsg/9JWtuE16z-QyrN_uV6h9DOLRx2aEGlUgg/s320/P1010228.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was muddy underfoot, my knees were hurting, I
kept getting cramp in my left calf and I was very tired – so I was not in the
best of humours, having to climb over fences at this point in the day!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Luckily, it wasn’t too far from here to my pitch for the
night at Margrove Park. The lovely man there had a pint of milk ready for me (I
had mentioned wanting milk when I rang up) and he told me I was the first
walker they had had through this season! Although my pitch was tucked away
behind caravans in storage, it was level, and close to the toilet block, which
was lovely and warm. What is more, there was also a plug just inside the door,
so I was able to use my charger! I was so tired I don’t remember much else –
tent up, eat, snooze, shower in the morning.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Good Friday (25<sup>th</sup>
March)<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Setting off early, as is my custom, yesterday’s tiredness
still was with me, and my left leg kept going into spasms as I walked. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Getting close to Saltburn I passed under a magnificent,
huge, railway viaduct. I was intrigued by the way the light was catching
catkins and newly opening leaves on the trees, and spent a while taking photos<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IOfUGNcoLpQ/VwIKQHMCeJI/AAAAAAAAAsg/3LvBFKKOE2MucVX2l4rdA-bIbCAZg_7hg/s1600/P1010232.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IOfUGNcoLpQ/VwIKQHMCeJI/AAAAAAAAAsg/3LvBFKKOE2MucVX2l4rdA-bIbCAZg_7hg/s320/P1010232.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A little further on was a park which had some really
interesting ‘arty’ benches on the theme of oak leaves. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q7Vfy-Qb7Rc/VwIMYQ712JI/AAAAAAAAAss/cJ1WLgFkmIQ-XHaJsG_Myag5R13KhGrxA/s1600/P1010235.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q7Vfy-Qb7Rc/VwIMYQ712JI/AAAAAAAAAss/cJ1WLgFkmIQ-XHaJsG_Myag5R13KhGrxA/s320/P1010235.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6CDh_d5vkyA/VwIMYRBrXJI/AAAAAAAAAsw/8Cj8ev59uloQtD7AmjF5zLLaV_WuXiqgg/s1600/P1010237.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6CDh_d5vkyA/VwIMYRBrXJI/AAAAAAAAAsw/8Cj8ev59uloQtD7AmjF5zLLaV_WuXiqgg/s320/P1010237.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></o:p></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was dragging myself along as I got into Saltburn, and
failed to find a café open, as it was Good Friday. I was feeling at a very low
ebb, and realised I needed a real break or I wasn’t going to finish this
trundle. I investigated the bus services along the coast, and eventually found
a timetable, but no bus stop. I wandered around for ages looking for this
******* bus stop, to no avail. Eventually I asked someone who looked like a
local – and she showed me where it had been – a hole in the tarmac where a post
had been broken off “when something crashed into it”……<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Of course, being Good Friday, the buses were running a
Sunday Service – so I had to wait nearly an hour. Just as well I have good
quality out-door gear. What a cold, windy place that is! Eventually the bus
came, and I was whisked off to Runswick Bay, where my next pitch was scheduled.
It was lovely to arrive early in the day and just laze about. Indeed, I got
fidgety after an hour or so, and (minus rucksack of course) walked down to the
beach, where a café was open and I had tea and a huge piece of fruitcake. The
cake was so large I ate half there and saved the other half for my pudding! As
I had my snack I watched members of the yacht club hauling boats out of the
water – there seemed to be a number of tractors employed to do just that.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5XPMFNoNLw4/VwIMW93ciFI/AAAAAAAAAs0/jnvHCJXxTN8IDgCZOA9iTbyXT5sYZ_NyA/s1600/P1010240.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5XPMFNoNLw4/VwIMW93ciFI/AAAAAAAAAs0/jnvHCJXxTN8IDgCZOA9iTbyXT5sYZ_NyA/s320/P1010240.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Despite the fact that I knew I was well below par, it was
heartening to see that on the steep climb up from the beach back to the camp
site I was faring far better than the ordinary holiday makers, most of whom
were really puffing and blowing up the hill.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Saturday 26<sup>th</sup>
March<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Things are a bit blurry about the morning. Despite my rest I
think I was still overtired, and I just plodded along.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Getting to Sandsend had an impact though. Here, stepping
onto what is in effect Whitby’s north beach, there were miles and miles of
pretty empty sand. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8lwM2S6YvD4/VwIN6tTUhoI/AAAAAAAAAtI/NtMWFRa3wYsYG7_8_tSxaGr4qz1A4BkGg/s1600/P1010243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8lwM2S6YvD4/VwIN6tTUhoI/AAAAAAAAAtI/NtMWFRa3wYsYG7_8_tSxaGr4qz1A4BkGg/s320/P1010243.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The tide had just gone out and I walked along the firm sands
for a good mile or so, entertained by the variety of dogs and their walkers,
playing on the beach, then walked the rest of the way into Whitby along the
prom. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By the time I had got into Whitby the weather was starting
to threaten, high winds whipping up loose sand and clouds glowering. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TLbuzS6wEEM/VwIN527OWgI/AAAAAAAAAtA/ygfOGCjUj3AGdhiAAzopzrtspGGf1qw4Q/s1600/P1010247.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TLbuzS6wEEM/VwIN527OWgI/AAAAAAAAAtA/ygfOGCjUj3AGdhiAAzopzrtspGGf1qw4Q/s320/P1010247.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></o:p></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I climbed a path that snaked up the cliff, and as I neared
the top I was puzzled by the smell. Topping out I realised that I had just landed
in the middle of the National Scooter Convention, which was being hosted in
Whitby! Two-stroke scented the air, and everywhere you looked there were
gloriously decorated Vespas and Lambrettas, polished beyond belief. Of course,
the visiting populace were also wearing the gear too…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tgETGolQkN8/VwIN6FEPSbI/AAAAAAAAAtE/JItnw4GKlLAr7QihLuSMpFidGTkR1AXLw/s1600/P1010248.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tgETGolQkN8/VwIN6FEPSbI/AAAAAAAAAtE/JItnw4GKlLAr7QihLuSMpFidGTkR1AXLw/s320/P1010248.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></o:p></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I had a little touristy episode looking at Cook’s monument –
and as I took a photo I realised that out at sea there was a reproduction
sailing ship, so I managed to take a photo of his statue and the ship together
– the ship unfortunately is tiny in this shot, located just above and between the left hand two wooden benches, but I promise it is there.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TXMSMUGbZRY/VwIPid3A8-I/AAAAAAAAAtY/W88Jfq8LHj4sYGzIkfJmyP1ZboDMwRu-A/s1600/P1010250.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TXMSMUGbZRY/VwIPid3A8-I/AAAAAAAAAtY/W88Jfq8LHj4sYGzIkfJmyP1ZboDMwRu-A/s320/P1010250.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I also took a picture of the whalebones and the Abbey –
kitch!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My prime objective in Whitby was to buy gas, as my supplies
were running low. I tried all possible suppliers, to no avail. One women told
me “It’s much too early for gas – no-one needs it at this time of year” – and I
am stood there in front of her wearing my rucsac! I knew I had my tiny back-up
canister at the bottom of my pack, so I gave up the search, and pressed on.
Climbing the Abbey steps led me to another tea room. The heat nearly turned me
away, but I stripped off all that was decent and had some lovely carrot cake,
before escaping to the wind again.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The rain arrived shortly after I left the Abbey, and the
wind became a shrieking monster against which it was at times impossible to
walk. Although in farm country, it felt like I was on some high mountainside,
exposed to that gale. It seemed to take hours, toiling into the wind to reach
Long Leas Farm, in Hawsker, my pitch for the night. Lots of other campers
there, all for the scooter convention, but mainly in vans or motorhomes. Nice
friendly bunch, and a good farm campsite. The wind was too strong to cook
beside my tent, so I huddled in the lea of the buildings to brew up my tea. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sunday 27<sup>th</sup>
March<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was obvious from the outset that the weather today was
going to be just awful. I did something I very rarely do, and that was make
breakfast inside my tent. (I did stick a boot under the flysheet to lift it up
and improve ventilation.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Worried about the strength of the wind which was blowing
from west to east, coupled with massive blasts in the gusts, I thought the
cliff path might be downright dangerous today, so opted instead to take the
‘Cinder Track’, an old railwayline that has been opened up as a cycle trail,
roughly paralleling the coast. I think I made a very good decision. The walking
was fairly easy, although by the end of the day I did have a tiny blister on my
right heel, as a result of the pounding my feet got. It felt like walking on
tarmac all day. Despite the weather, it was a lovely day for walking. As the
morning progressed the rain eased, although the high wind persisted. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I stopped at the National Trust Visitor Centre in Ravenscar,
had a nice cup of tea (automatic machine, no cakes here) and watched families
doing a trail with a reward at the end. (A chocolate bunny!) There seemed to be
lots of happy kids everywhere. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The afternoon seemed to go on, and on and on, dodging
showers that were occasionally deluges and at one point, hailstones. The
countryside was nice, but not remarkable. Lots of people seemed to be out
walking their dogs. Eventually, just when I thought I could go no further I got
to the Caravan & Camping Club site just north of Scarborough. The site
staff there are a friendly bunch, and their shop had not only milk and orange
juice, but cheese and bread buns too. Heaven.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was so cold (massive wind chill still) that I went for a
walk to scout out if there was somewhere I could lurk in the warm for the
evening – and I found a little on-site chippy. FISH AND CHIPS have never seemed
so necessary. What is more, having thawed out in the chippy, they were able to
point me to the ‘club room’ where I sat for the next couple of hours, ate my
tea and read my Kindle till I felt ready for bed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Monday 28<sup>th</sup> March</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The last day dawned - wet. Very, very wet. Other campers
were packing up as fast as they could, some struggling to get cars and vans off
soggy grass. A river ran down the main roadway through the campsite. I used the
‘backpackers shelter’ to make breakfast and to get my gear sorted and packed,
as it kept some of the worst rain off me. However, it was still open to the
bitter wind and swirling dampness.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></o:p></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Leaving the camp site that morning, the river was pelting
along, and Scarborough was full of flooded roads.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R_64LAaPwd0/VwIPi8ZBAmI/AAAAAAAAAtg/IM9bGS9tm8oq7RVAf1FT3C6SuQa_o5pFw/s1600/P1010262.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R_64LAaPwd0/VwIPi8ZBAmI/AAAAAAAAAtg/IM9bGS9tm8oq7RVAf1FT3C6SuQa_o5pFw/s320/P1010262.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Luckily, the rain eased, then stopped, so that by the time I
exited Scarborough it was only windy, but not as excessively as on Saturday.
Things were reasonably pleasant util I got to a headland called Yons Nab. Here
the wind seemed to have been waiting for me, and once again I felt fearful
about being knocked over by it. The coast path had disintegrated to muddy slop,
and walking became very difficult for some considerable distance. I knew the
end was nearing – but I seemed to be crawling along, battered by the wind and
slipping all over the place in the mud. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5Y1c5nBaCWI/VwIRr-H5UdI/AAAAAAAAAto/Bc56BvO9p-Mjdjp10Ogp8MEjDRR7VH4tg/s1600/P1010270.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5Y1c5nBaCWI/VwIRr-H5UdI/AAAAAAAAAto/Bc56BvO9p-Mjdjp10Ogp8MEjDRR7VH4tg/s320/P1010270.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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</div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Suddenly, the last cliffline before Filey itself appeared. I
wasn’t sure what to expect at the end of the Cleveland Way itself, but guessed
there would be some kind of monument, like at the start. Partially elated, to
be ending all the hard work, and partially disappointed, because it meant
returning to life and work, I trudged along North Cliff.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Nt8-FahkQ8M/VwIRryHG6zI/AAAAAAAAAts/I7lxaptyoi0YWq6q9zMwjU5DN6qXVSg3w/s1600/P1010271.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Nt8-FahkQ8M/VwIRryHG6zI/AAAAAAAAAts/I7lxaptyoi0YWq6q9zMwjU5DN6qXVSg3w/s320/P1010271.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The cliff went on, ... and on, ... and on. Finally, I got to the end and saw my final objective: a monument which did indeed match
the one at the start.</span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In the bitingly cold wind there was no-one else around, so no-one I could press into taking a picture of me. I experimented with taking a 'selfie' on my phone (yes, the first one I have ever done) but was not very happy with the result. I took pictures of the monument with my camera as well. I sent a text home to say I had made it. Then I had to find
my campsite, pushing another of couple of miles onto my legs. It was not the best site in the
world. Enough said. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tuesday 29<sup>th</sup>
March<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After a lazy, late morning start I walked back into Filey,
dodging showers I travelled home by train, snoozing most of the way. Oh, my – it was VERY warm when you were out of that wind!</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Reflecting back on my earlier query about how easy or otherwise pitching the Zephyros is, I have to say it is the best tent I have ever possessed both for pitching and striking. I have added a home made 'footprint' clipped into the tent system, and the whole thing works delightfully. Many thanks to those people who have written blog-posts about modifying this tent (and others) as I have learned a lot from you and am happily applying them to my new little nest. As always I have a 'little list' of other gear modifications I want to do before my next jaunt. Life would be such a bore if I didn't have my trundles to prepare for...</span></div>
Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17936841596623221054noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3855601948400120759.post-28791606536500255432014-10-13T21:40:00.003-07:002014-10-13T21:46:41.527-07:00TGO Challenge 2015 - anticipation<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It is now nearly a month since I sent off my application for the TGO Challenge 2015. Anticipation abounds. Tension increases. Will I get a place? I have a rough idea about what my route will be - and have talked it through with a number of fellow Challengers at the recent reunion in Crainlarich.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was a tad disappointed to find that my daily 'fix' looking at the TGO Countdown clock had stopped running - so I am attempting to set a new one going. Here is the link:</span><br />
<iframe frameborder="0" height="240" src="https://w2.countingdownto.com/662281" width="350"></iframe><br />
<a href="https://countingdownto.com/">Countdown Clock</a><br />
<br />
https://countingdownto.com/countdown-page/show/TGO%20Challenge%202015%7C554bee70%7C1<br />
<br />
<br />Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17936841596623221054noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3855601948400120759.post-35028706610340960142014-06-05T11:06:00.000-07:002014-06-05T11:06:13.966-07:00TGOC2014: Lindy's Story<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">The Great Outdoors Challenge
2014</span><o:p></o:p></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Lindy Griffiths, Challenger no. 121<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vzFzuzsBjoA/U5CCmyGuJEI/AAAAAAAAAeY/qhQrYT0ZgLk/s1600/Revised+route,+TGOC14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vzFzuzsBjoA/U5CCmyGuJEI/AAAAAAAAAeY/qhQrYT0ZgLk/s1600/Revised+route,+TGOC14.jpg" height="456" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">First impressions of the crossing were that it was fabulous! There were hard bits, of course – and some that were
plain downright nasty – but on the whole it was just about as brilliant as it
could be.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here is the tale…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Wed 7<sup>th</sup> & Thursday 8<sup>th</sup> May 2014<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Wednesday was Ron’s Birthday, so
we chose to start the journey north a day early, having an extra night and a
celebratory meal on the east coast of Scotland. On Thursday we pootled across
country dropping supply parcels at Newtonmore Hostel and Cannich Campsite.
Arriving in Dornie was exciting, as it meant the start was so near. After a
nice bar meal I retired for a final faf with my gear.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Friday 9<sup>th</sup> May 2014<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The plan<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tbody>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">OS
SHEETS<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">DISTANCE
(km)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">ASCENT
(m)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">OVERNIGHT
HALT<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<tr>
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">33, 25<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">28k, 17.4 miles<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">+540m, (250 descent)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Wildcamp
126304 <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<td colspan="4" style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 462.1pt;" valign="top" width="616">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Road
south of Loch Long to 897278, over bridge to path up River Glennan,easterly
to Carnas-luinie; Glen Elchaig, cross bridge 968278, track eastwards to iron
Lodge. Take path up past waterfall past loch an Droma and down to Loch
Mullardoch. Wildcamp vicinity of ruin at Am Màm 126304.</span><b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wymRreerkvk/U5BRr3JUbpI/AAAAAAAAAVA/Ea6wA6uVElo/s1600/IMGP5723b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wymRreerkvk/U5BRr3JUbpI/AAAAAAAAAVA/Ea6wA6uVElo/s1600/IMGP5723b.jpg" height="237" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">High
adrenaline coupled with a lovely breakfast led to me doing the statutory
‘dipping the <span style="line-height: 115%;">toes
in the water’ thingy and Ron taking photos. </span><span style="line-height: 115%;"> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;">Sign
out was at 9.00am, and after saying my last goodbyes I was finally off up the
track along the south of Loch Long, (which isn’t – it is one of the shortest
lochs I know of!), finally stepping out into the hills along the River Glennan</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oDvWA7zCqpQ/U5BTQlZ-NtI/AAAAAAAAAWI/zpmTaG0kdBU/s1600/IMGP5725.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oDvWA7zCqpQ/U5BTQlZ-NtI/AAAAAAAAAWI/zpmTaG0kdBU/s1600/IMGP5725.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OOL0N6RTgVg/U5BSNKm_XdI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/cA66F6J6Lpc/s1600/IMGP5729.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OOL0N6RTgVg/U5BSNKm_XdI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/cA66F6J6Lpc/s1600/IMGP5729.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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There were primroses
and violets everywhere. <o:p></o:p><br />
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X734o719Qk4/U5BSM6k3wFI/AAAAAAAAAVU/7Kw8-otukOE/s1600/IMGP5731.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X734o719Qk4/U5BSM6k3wFI/AAAAAAAAAVU/7Kw8-otukOE/s1600/IMGP5731.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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I really knew I was in the
mountains when the first bealach loomed into sight.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VHiMb8tbqRE/U5BSPHgB95I/AAAAAAAAAVc/i_iNvNq6n1o/s1600/IMGP5734.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VHiMb8tbqRE/U5BSPHgB95I/AAAAAAAAAVc/i_iNvNq6n1o/s1600/IMGP5734.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a><span style="line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;">A
brief pause to catch my breath and exchange a few words with other challengers was
followed by a difficult descent to the little community of Camas–luinie. The
whole hillside had been churned up in preparation for tree planting, big holes
scooped out, no path in sight.</span></div>
</span><br />
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;">This
was followed by a delightful trot up the River Elchaig and Loch Leitreach to
Iron Lodge.</span></div>
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I was beginning to think that
this was going too well when I began the serious climbing up the pass that
would take me over to Loch Mullardoch.</div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;">Suffice
to say that I had been warned……</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5OqRto4AZWw/U5BSobb_K2I/AAAAAAAAAV8/Tj6KSUGVe04/s1600/IMGP5747.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: justify;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5OqRto4AZWw/U5BSobb_K2I/AAAAAAAAAV8/Tj6KSUGVe04/s1600/IMGP5747.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">By the time I got down to the loch shore it was
late – about 8.30pm. The path meets the loch at a river. Scoping about, there
was no easy crossing. No alternative – I was in for my first dousing of the
crossing. Boots off, sandals on, trouser legs unzipped and tied up out of the
way, I tentatively stepped into the freezing water. Nasty! </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">At the end of the
day, crossing that freezing river sapped all my remaining strength, and the realisation that there was a
convenient patch of grass just by me led to an instant </span><span style="text-align: justify;">decision about where to set up
camp!</span></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Saturday 10<sup>th</sup> May2014<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The plan<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">OS
SHEETS<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">DISTANCE
(km)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">ASCENT
(m)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">OVERNIGHT
HALT<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">25, 26<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">27km, </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">16.7
miles</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">+300, </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">-400</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Campsite,
Cannich<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Follow
north of lochside, diverting up Allt Taige to 180319, continue on lochside to
pick up track at 218316. Follow track to Cannich.</span><b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
</td>
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</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7Nh8APqhKFk/U5BmOYRHtkI/AAAAAAAAAWo/8unl6WHVSig/s1600/IMGP5752.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7Nh8APqhKFk/U5BmOYRHtkI/AAAAAAAAAWo/8unl6WHVSig/s1600/IMGP5752.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I woke at first light. The saying goes "</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Red sky in the morning, shepherd's warning". Oh boy was that warning right! It soon started to rain, and rain hard. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Breakfast.
Struck camp. Set off at 4.45 am. Rain. Unremitting rain. Boggy lochshore, badly
eroded. Hard going. Cross rivers. Exhausting. Everything that I had been warned
about came to pass, and a bit more! I kept going. What more can I say?</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pRyb1XKZs5U/U5BmNLr58hI/AAAAAAAAAWk/jP701j4aod4/s1600/IMGP5756.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pRyb1XKZs5U/U5BmNLr58hI/AAAAAAAAAWk/jP701j4aod4/s1600/IMGP5756.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Eventually I got down to the dam
at the bottom of Loch Mullardoch. Relief! Feeling that I had returned to
civilisation (there were cars and people: walkers out for a day in the hills)
I found a little quiet spot and to eat a bite then curled up and (covered by my
storm shelter, because it was still raining) had a little sleep.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-B6f5wJL8LLI/U5BmPlD95BI/AAAAAAAAAW0/tpMQYhNqYso/s1600/IMGP5758.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-B6f5wJL8LLI/U5BmPlD95BI/AAAAAAAAAW0/tpMQYhNqYso/s1600/IMGP5758.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Restored once more, I trundled
gently down the valley on the roadway through pretty woodland to Glen Cannich.
Still tired out I sat awhile by the river watching dippers on the stones, eventually returning to trudge
on. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Brief excitement – fire in the treetops! Weird! It had stopped raining by
now, but everything was soaking wet. Why could I see smoke? Getting closer, I
realised that a tree had fallen against a powerline. Every time the wind blew,
the branches were catching fire, crackling and burning up high above me. Then
the wind would drop, and the tree would sway back, the burning would fade away
– thanks to the soggy conditions, no doubt – and the cycle would begin again.
Concerned in case this would lead to a big fire on a drier day – or a power
outage somewhere, I tried my phone – no signal of course. I took a GPS reading
of the location and noted it down. I could report it later.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Getting to the campsite was an
anti-climax. Tired out, I retrieved my supplies parcel, told them about the
‘fire’ so they could phone through for me, then pitched my tent and found a
café that made a decent baked potato with tuna, plus tea and cake. A shower
made me feel a bit more human, but by now it was raining again. Can’t have
everything! Just as I was making preparations to go to bed Lousie Evans and
Laura Liddell turned up. They had had an awful day. The path they had been
intending to take to Tomich had been closed by forestry work, so they had
diverted here to Cannich, adding a good few miles to their journey. Chatting
for a while they told me to look out for Fred Campbell, their walking companion
from earlier, who was heading the same way as me tomorrow.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sunday 11<sup>th</sup> May 2014<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The plan<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">OS
SHEETS<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">DISTANCE
(km)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">ASCENT
(m)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">OVERNIGHT
HALT<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">26,
25, 34<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">26k, </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">16.1
miles</span></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">+570, </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">-510</span></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Wildcamp, rear Torgyle Bridge<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="4" style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 462.1pt;" valign="top" width="616">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Leave
Cannich SE by road, cross bridge & turn R, minor road to Kerrow and
continue towards Tomich, taking track trending SSW climbing hill and roughly
following powerline, via junction at Loch a’Ghreidlein (322262), turn W the
SWesterly, to Loch na Beinne Baine (293198, southerly to the col between
Beinn Bhàn and Meakk Ruigh Uisdein
(290 177) and down to Torgyle Bridge. Wildcamp.</span><b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Another early start saw me take
the road to Tomich. It wasn’t raining! I got to the hotel in Tomich in time for
a fine second breakfast. Suitably fortified I began what I know would be a huge
climb up out of the valley. When I did it last Easter the paths had been icy.
Today there was a little mud here and there, but the going was good. Getting up
onto the ridge I joined the ‘Balfour-Beatty Track’ that had been built for the
construction of the Beauly-Denys powerline. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pmDSrWsHo-4/U5BreSjkHFI/AAAAAAAAAYg/YBWUxltmSA4/s1600/IMGP5766b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pmDSrWsHo-4/U5BreSjkHFI/AAAAAAAAAYg/YBWUxltmSA4/s1600/IMGP5766b.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Love it or hate it, the track is
actually good for walking on. On a day of intermittent downpours it was a
godsend! I found the engineering interesting in places, especially the water
management systems that had been built into the track.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Gcmop5IXjsk/U5Bo_lGDmRI/AAAAAAAAAXY/_VY5MNf6g_A/s1600/IMGP5768.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Gcmop5IXjsk/U5Bo_lGDmRI/AAAAAAAAAXY/_VY5MNf6g_A/s1600/IMGP5768.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Briefly I walked with David and
Margaret Mitchell and Bob and Marlyn Simpson, stopping to brew up with them at
the side of the trackway, then I pushed on, on my own. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Early in the afternoon I was
feeling very soggy and tired out when I spied a number of earthmoving machines
parked up – and a welfare cabin with its door open. Calling out “Is anybody there?”
a reply came – and a challenger sporting a red buff on his head popped out his
head. This was Fred, Louise and Lorraine’s erstwhile companion. The cabin was a
haven from the rain. Fred had been sorting out his wet gear and taking a rest.
He even had his tent hung up on coat-pegs to dry! The Mitchells and Simpsons
called in briefly but did not stop. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After a brief respite from the worst of the
rain, I set off again between squalls. Looking back a little later I could see
the cabin perched up on the shoulder of the hill in the distance, high above Loch na Beinne Baine.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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As the day wore on and the miles increased I grew weary. Suddenly I found the perfect seat! A rock at the side of the roadway (at NH294158) was the perfect dimensions for my bottom! <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A snack
and foot airing always has restorative powers. I was soon on my way again.</span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t0NZ4Xds6rw/U5Bo_EwKa5I/AAAAAAAAAXQ/4Nj-XICeSq0/s1600/IMGP5772.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t0NZ4Xds6rw/U5Bo_EwKa5I/AAAAAAAAAXQ/4Nj-XICeSq0/s1600/IMGP5772.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A pile of rocks, tumbled by the
construction works at a corner on the track just cried out to become a cairn at
the summit of the col between Meall na Doire and its un-named partner. I helped
them a little, moving some interesting shaped pieces together. I always add
rocks to cairns, but this is the first time I have felt the drive to build one.
It is strange, but I felt it was a celebration of my day, high above the world.
After this long day, but still with lots of energy to spare, it was quite
spiritual! I took photos and then set off again. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div style="text-align: justify;">
The descent to Torgyle Bridge
was exciting for me – I have always loved seeing geology exposed by
civil-engineering works. </div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LPqWtOzJByI/U5BpS0jZOpI/AAAAAAAAAXs/D1E1tVWxrVo/s1600/IMGP5777.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LPqWtOzJByI/U5BpS0jZOpI/AAAAAAAAAXs/D1E1tVWxrVo/s1600/IMGP5777.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The cuttings recently hewn on this descent were
amongst the most interesting I have ever seen, with intrusions of granite into
country rock. I wished I had time to spend a whole day here, looking at the
rocks and working out the succession of events, but it was getting late, and
sadly I had to drag myself away. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I had planned to climb up the
other side of Glen Moriston, to camp in a clearing I had identified near the
old Military Road. In the event, seeing the Mitchells and the Simpsons setting
up camp on the banks of the river by Torgyle Bridge, I made a snap decision to
join them for the night. It was a lovely pitch.</span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></o:p></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Monday 12<sup>th</sup> May 2014<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The plan<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoTableGrid" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-yfti-tbllook: 1184;">
<tbody>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">OS
SHEETS<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">DISTANCE
(km)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">ASCENT
(m)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">OVERNIGHT
HALT<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<tr>
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">34<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">26k<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">16.1
miles<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">+630<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">-390<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">NH
382029<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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350m)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">From
Torgyle Bridge (309129). Leave road at 308128 and climb SW with track to
junction 293116, then take Old Military Rd to Allt Phocsichain take Old
Military Rd to Ft Augustus, resupply. A82 south to 371070, turn NE onto minor
Rd then at 373072 onto track, Gen Wade’s Military Rd. Camp at Blackburn Bothy
382 029</span><b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">An early, dry start, saw me
climbing the valley side following the new powerline. Here there was no
trackway, and I was crossing open country. Slow going, very steep, but suddenly
I found the track I was looking for. It seems that the Old Military Road and
the new Balfour-Beatty road are one and the same in many places. I had a lovely
morning walking across moorland and through forest before dropping down to Fort
Augustus. Commanding both the end of Loch Ness and the locks on the Caledonian
Canal this must have been a very important strategic place back in the mists of
time. Today it is full of tourists from all over the world. It has nice loos (where
I washed my feet in a hand-basin!) and a shop that sold everything I needed for
resupply including a nice wee dram…. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Finding a seat by the locks I ate my lunch
and was happy to be joined by Oliver, a Challenger I had met on my previous
crossings. Strolling through the village I also bumped into Fred again. It’s funny
how people’s paths keep crossing.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Heading out from the tourist
throng the couple of miles of road before the beginning of the Old Militairy
Road to the Corrieyairack Pass seemed to go on and on for ever. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My feet were
sore and tired, and I was actually feeling quite hot and bothered (as the sun
was shining for a change). I took the opportunity, once I got off the road, to
find a quiet spot to rest. Food, drink, boots off, snooze! I know how to get
myself feeling positive again! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Once again Balfour-Beatty were
much in evidence. Work was going on all around me, just over the fence from
where I was resting. </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jk9wiqAcvmE/U5Bpvd3tvJI/AAAAAAAAAYY/RbJOVbg3Ojg/s1600/IMGP5794.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jk9wiqAcvmE/U5Bpvd3tvJI/AAAAAAAAAYY/RbJOVbg3Ojg/s1600/IMGP5794.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Their trackway roughly parallels the ancient route I was
on. Huge wagons carried tons of rock, pick-up trucks zoomed about, and a
general send of ‘busy-ness’ was in the air. All the new tracks made for some
interesting navigation. I was quite pleased when a guy on a quad bike stopped
to chat. Employed on the local estate, he confirmed I was on the right track
and sent me on my way with a cheery wave. I think he was off feeding grouse.
There seemed to be a number of the pens for raising them as I climbed up out of
the valley towards Blackburn Bothy. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I had looked forward to exploring
the environs of the bothy, as a result of my experiences in 2012, but it
started to rain just as the bothy came into sight. Two tents were pitched up on
the grass outside, but after a peep inside the bothy I knew I was happy to
spend the night under a roof! A quick word with Challenger Kirsten Paterson in
one of the tents warned me of a dead deer in the stream above the bothy, and
gave me guidance about where she had collected water, so off I went. Sure
enough I found the sad corpse, and trotted higher up the Black Burn to collect
my water. By now the rain had turned to a torrent and I was glad to get inside
four walls to sort myself out and make a meal. I was later joined by a very wet
Maggie Hems, also glad to escape the weather. Kirsten popped over form her tent
for a chat, but I didn’t see David Wishart till the next morning. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tuesday 13<sup>th</sup> May 2014<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The plan<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoTableGrid" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-yfti-tbllook: 1184;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">OS
SHEETS<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">DISTANCE
(km)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">ASCENT
(m)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">OVERNIGHT
HALT<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">34, 35<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">20k<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">12.4
miles<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">+430m<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">-480m<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Garva
Bridge<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">(Height
300m)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="4" style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 462.1pt;" valign="top" width="616">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">From
Blackburn Bothy follow the military road over the Corrieyairack Pass, halting
at Melgarve Bothy for a break and continuing on to wildcamp near Garva Bridge
(NN524948)</span><b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">David was camped in a Trailstar
similar to my own, so when we chatted in the morning we compared notes on how
we pitch the shelter – and he showed me his brilliant idea: he had the inner
from an old tent as a ‘nest’ to keep out the bugs. Brilliant! I have been
mulling what to do about this, and have been lucky to have avoided any nights
when they are biting so far. The purpose made ‘nests’ although light are
expensive, and I had been thinking about how to make my own. This seemed like a
great compromise, if a suitable inner was available.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In 2012 I had a very difficult
day on the Corrieyairack Pass. Coming in from Invergarry I attempted to cut
across country with a traverse from Aberchalder to Blackburn Bothy on ‘Storm
Sunday’. Because the weather was so bad and the streams were up I ended up
taking a route over the tops and taking a easterly bearing for the pass. I got
embroiled in the early stages of the Balfour-Beaty construction and had a very
unpleasant time before I finally got onto the Old Military Road. One of the
main targets for this year’s Challenge was to follow the pass without the danger
of hurricane force winds, to see where incidents had occurred on that awful
day, and to think about the decisions I had taken at the time. In many ways
this was going to be a day to ‘lay the ghost’ of the day that Scotland had almost killed me.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I enjoyed my early morning tramp, and saw a very unusual beetle scuttling among the stones on the trackway. </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9IKzRkHSfmo/U5B1KPiwMGI/AAAAAAAAAZE/dyCxgGiZYik/s1600/IMGP5806.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9IKzRkHSfmo/U5B1KPiwMGI/AAAAAAAAAZE/dyCxgGiZYik/s1600/IMGP5806.JPG" height="242" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Climbing away from Blackburn
Bothy it was some time before I began to recognise the terrain. I had not
realised that my struggle across country in 2012 had taken me so far from the
ideal route, but eventually I realised that this was the point where I had
tried, unsuccessfully, to cross from the new trackway to the Military Road on
Storm Sunday. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-srUBaf4Vf1M/U5B1536JqOI/AAAAAAAAAZU/FpodZuxKeGY/s1600/IMGP5819.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-srUBaf4Vf1M/U5B1536JqOI/AAAAAAAAAZU/FpodZuxKeGY/s1600/IMGP5819.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Only about 50m separated the two tracks, but I vividly remembered
the fluid peat underfoot, and the sensation that there was no bottom, as I
hauled myself back to the new construction. Today I took lots of photos, seeing
huge dumper trucks slowly grinding their way upwards, carting stone from the
quarry at the bottom of the pass high up into the hills.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In 2012 I had followed the new
trackway from that point to where the construction work ended some way higher
up. Today I was able to identify where I had climbed, taking shelter behind two
huge boulders to rest and eat. </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P8eYwoTrDos/U5B3iXih2qI/AAAAAAAAAaY/MH9sQaBDnSM/s1600/Picture3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P8eYwoTrDos/U5B3iXih2qI/AAAAAAAAAaY/MH9sQaBDnSM/s1600/Picture3.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I remember the cold, and the wind battering me,
wishing I could stay in the shelter behind the boulders, but having to move
because the hillside was awash, and I had realised that the water was running
underneath me, as well as over me. From the position of the boulders I was able
to work out where I had eventually made it onto the Old Military Road on that
terrible day.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Som3DIKiAv8/U5B2DuoyADI/AAAAAAAAAZo/SCRfwMaAoO0/s1600/IMGP5825.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Som3DIKiAv8/U5B2DuoyADI/AAAAAAAAAZo/SCRfwMaAoO0/s1600/IMGP5825.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> I remember how I sent out a prayer of relief at that point –
although I still had a big struggle making the summit in that wind, and getting
down the other side to Melgarve Bothy.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ied1IzyGNHA/U5B4XxFKLaI/AAAAAAAAAag/-PTGzlvY7zc/s1600/IMGP5827b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ied1IzyGNHA/U5B4XxFKLaI/AAAAAAAAAag/-PTGzlvY7zc/s1600/IMGP5827b.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Although the climb was hard work
today, it was cathartic to work my way up the Military Road on a pleasant day,
realising that on Storm Sunday I had indeed done the right things in the
conditions, and that I could not have done anything better. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By the time I reached
the summit of the pass I was feeling good. It was, however, really weird seeing
the construction crews working just a few metres away so high up in the hills.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vAtjB6QUYTE/U5B2NerHtHI/AAAAAAAAAZ0/cVDt-5Nt8nE/s1600/IMGP5832.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vAtjB6QUYTE/U5B2NerHtHI/AAAAAAAAAZ0/cVDt-5Nt8nE/s1600/IMGP5832.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vqz94Bkg1nE/U5B2bxgPRpI/AAAAAAAAAaM/72UlE4OJce0/s1600/IMGP5834.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vqz94Bkg1nE/U5B2bxgPRpI/AAAAAAAAAaM/72UlE4OJce0/s1600/IMGP5834.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There is something counter-intuitive about seeing trucks driving past when you
know you have just climbed up a huge hill! I paused briefly at the summit for a
snack, waving to the passenger in a pickup truck passing just yards away from
me on the Balfour-Beaty track.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vw4YemqRWHE/U5B2cYkWysI/AAAAAAAAAaQ/VSymu0leUuI/s1600/IMGP5846.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vw4YemqRWHE/U5B2cYkWysI/AAAAAAAAAaQ/VSymu0leUuI/s1600/IMGP5846.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Climbing up the pass I had been
looking at the pylons that had been built, and the ‘pads’ that were being
prepared for other pylons to be erected. Once over the top, dropping below the
snowline once more, I watched crews erecting the giants, thinking what skilled,
and dangerous work it was.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">David Wishart caught up with me
on the descent, and we talked about these developments as we walked down to
Melgarve Bothy. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Stepping into the bothy I
recognised Sam Hackett from earlier Challenges. We had a lighthearted
lunch-break, and when I was ready I pushed on down to Garva Bridge. There was
quite a collection of tents there already, and I joined in happily, enjoying
being part of the crowd, but also pleased that my crossing of the Corrieyairack
Pass had gone so well, and that now I was feeling good about the place, not
haunted.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Wednesday 14<sup>th</sup> May 2014<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The plan<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoTableGrid" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-yfti-tbllook: 1184;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">OS
SHEETS<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">DISTANCE
(km)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">ASCENT
(m)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">OVERNIGHT
HALT<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">35<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">23km, </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">14.3
miles</span></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">+120m, </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">-150m</span></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Newtonmore
Hostel<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="4" style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 462.1pt;" valign="top" width="616">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Follow
military road from Garva Bridge to Lagan
(NN615945) then road-walk (A86) to Newtonmore.</span><b style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></b></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I made an early start again, taking photos of the frosty tents by the river at Garva Bridge before striking camp and setting off. </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XRi2Q7MTDkU/U5B6BkMMYKI/AAAAAAAAAaw/JwyXongdnuY/s1600/IMGP5852.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XRi2Q7MTDkU/U5B6BkMMYKI/AAAAAAAAAaw/JwyXongdnuY/s1600/IMGP5852.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pUhrHa_snCk/U5B61oVJ4uI/AAAAAAAAAbc/u8YFglJ9ZsE/s1600/IMGP3658.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pUhrHa_snCk/U5B61oVJ4uI/AAAAAAAAAbc/u8YFglJ9ZsE/s1600/IMGP3658.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flooding after the storm in 2012</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Today was to be a peaceful trundle, all
road walking, no climbing or descent to speak of, on minor roads to Laggan, and
then on to Newtonmore. When I walked through here in 2012 there had
been significant flooding and I had been very curious about the old bridge standing proud of the waters ...</span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hIpD9c-Skko/U5B6tEFT4JI/AAAAAAAAAbU/6neAqBXLFNw/s1600/IMGP5855.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hIpD9c-Skko/U5B6tEFT4JI/AAAAAAAAAbU/6neAqBXLFNw/s1600/IMGP5855.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The same place in 2014</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><br /><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><br /><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><br /><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><br /><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><br /><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><br /><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span>... but this year the old 'Wade' bridge stood out from the grass of the field at the side of the new road.<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><br /><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><br /><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><br /><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><br /><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I
stopped by the lochside just past Sherrabeg. The water was so still the
landscape was mirrored.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iWhN0fSYghs/U5B6CTkLQPI/AAAAAAAAAbI/5zex2T9Ei1A/s1600/IMGP5863.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iWhN0fSYghs/U5B6CTkLQPI/AAAAAAAAAbI/5zex2T9Ei1A/s1600/IMGP5863.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Sitting in the quiet morning I dozed gently for a
while. The exertions of the past few days were catching up with me. Listening
to my body I promised to be ‘gentle’ today.</div>
<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Just outside Laggan I heard two
grouse squabbling – and took a sequence of photos of the tousle from really
close up. Eventually one of them submitted to the other.
I don’t think they ever knew I was there!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dqrlcMA_O80/U5B6DJZn_qI/AAAAAAAAAbM/gUsOh28bxwM/s1600/IMGP5865b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dqrlcMA_O80/U5B6DJZn_qI/AAAAAAAAAbM/gUsOh28bxwM/s1600/IMGP5865b.jpg" height="199" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was really pleased to see work
going on at Laggan stores and a sign in the window saying that the shop would
be re-opening soon. I am still grateful to the previous owner for her kindness
in 2012, when I arrived in Laggan, so exhausted after my crossing of the
Corrieyairack.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Making use of the public toilet
across the road from the shop, once again I enjoyed the wall paintings done by
the local primary school.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Although I have driven the road
from Laggan to Newtonmore it is a far different experience to walk it. There
were a number of notable sights, including the small graveyard tucked under the
trees near Cluny Castle, and a somewhat bizarre red guardsman’s box (complete
with cut-out guardsman) by the road.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Arriving at the hostel in
Newtonmore was a delight. An oasis for Challengers, I was quickly fed cake and
given a mug of tea, then Alli showed me to my room and my precious resupply parcel.
A blur of chatter ensued, meeting, greeting and catching up with everyone else
who was there. I met Emma Warbrick, with whom I was sharing a room. We realised
that we would have to be careful with our jackets, because we both had the same
blue Paramo. A fabulous, (very filling) meal at ‘The Glen’ in the company of
Mike Gillespie, Patrick Deane and Alan MacDonald followed, leaving me realising
that an early night was much needed! Just after I had started getting ready for
bed Louise Evans (of Lousie and Laura from Cannich campsite) turned up – in a
tearing hurry as she wanted to get to the Glen for a meal. Laura Liddell was
somewhere behind her – I was asleep before she materialised.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b><span style="line-height: 115%;">Tursday 15th May 2014</span></b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The plan<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoTableGrid" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-yfti-tbllook: 1184;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">OS
SHEETS<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">DISTANCE
(km)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">ASCENT
(m)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">OVERNIGHT
HALT<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">35 <o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">22km, </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">13.7
miles</span></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">+200, </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">-80</span></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Camp
at Ruigh aiteachain bothy, 847928<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="4" style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 462.1pt;" valign="top" width="616">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Take
A86 ENE to Kingussie, junction turn SSE then E on B970, to Drumguish, 789998.
Take path heading SE to 806986 then easterly to 824983. Follow signs to cross
footbridge, then rejoin path marked on the map at 826982 past Corarnstilmore
and into Glen Feshie 848976. Take path south, crossing the river by the
bridge at 850965. <span style="background: yellow; mso-highlight: yellow;">NB the
Bridge further S at 846937 is down.</span> Continue on the path up the
valley, past the camping near the bothy at Ruigh-aiteachain</span><b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zpUHVZKDmo8/U5B9q9HdeQI/AAAAAAAAAbw/-cRVBaykNCQ/s1600/IMGP5868.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zpUHVZKDmo8/U5B9q9HdeQI/AAAAAAAAAbw/-cRVBaykNCQ/s1600/IMGP5868.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Having got my gear ready before
bed last night I was able to creep out of my room at the hostel for an early
breakfast. Fred Campbell was there too, and we chattered as we ate. Various
others surfaced, and before long the kitchen was quite full. </span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iL7Fa4OUNbA/U5B9qesc_0I/AAAAAAAAAbo/9MoC122-TQY/s1600/IMGP5869.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iL7Fa4OUNbA/U5B9qesc_0I/AAAAAAAAAbo/9MoC122-TQY/s1600/IMGP5869.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I took a picture,
then headed off towards Kingussie, popping into the Co-op for a block of cheese
and a carrot to nibble on. It was a lovely morning, and I enjoyed the walk up
the cycle path from Newtonmore to Kingussie. I had seen Mike, Patrick and Alan
going into the Co-op as I left, and before long they came steaming past me at a
great rate of knots. Turning down to Ruthven Barracks I headed towards the
Feshie, pausing to chat about the weather and the Challenge with a man in
Tromie Bridge. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Having felt a bit worn out
yesterday, my excellent meal and sleep in a real bed last night seemed to have
filled me full of energy, and I was raring to go. I trotted happily through the
woodland, and was just about to walk into the open again when Sam Hackett and
Richard Bannister caught me up.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iZTbB5wTruI/U5B94ZBYoEI/AAAAAAAAAcE/aJp3CKK42o4/s1600/IMGP5880.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iZTbB5wTruI/U5B94ZBYoEI/AAAAAAAAAcE/aJp3CKK42o4/s1600/IMGP5880.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div style="text-align: justify;">
I joined them for a snack at the ruin at
Baileguish, before they yomped off again. At a more sedate pace I followed on,
meeting up with two Davids: Wishart and Williams, before stopping for another
snack at the bridge over the Feshie just below Achleum, where I met Jeremy
Prall.</div>
<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vXtMcn3Pkag/U5B9-DTkAKI/AAAAAAAAAcU/OFR58--dxs8/s1600/IMGP5881.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vXtMcn3Pkag/U5B9-DTkAKI/AAAAAAAAAcU/OFR58--dxs8/s1600/IMGP5881.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LGMExavOwHo/U5B98uLRdPI/AAAAAAAAAcM/IYGfF6uZmIk/s1600/IMGP5882.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LGMExavOwHo/U5B98uLRdPI/AAAAAAAAAcM/IYGfF6uZmIk/s1600/IMGP5882.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I walked on from here on my own,
marvelling at the lovely views and the new paths and simple bridges that have been built.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EqqnQnVF4iI/U5B-HlxWiKI/AAAAAAAAAcc/rQXDYGOQp2s/s1600/IMGP5885.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EqqnQnVF4iI/U5B-HlxWiKI/AAAAAAAAAcc/rQXDYGOQp2s/s1600/IMGP5885.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--UHud1HoVIg/U5B-QgAwhlI/AAAAAAAAAck/Nu2ra84bHf0/s1600/IMGP5886.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--UHud1HoVIg/U5B-QgAwhlI/AAAAAAAAAck/Nu2ra84bHf0/s1600/IMGP5886.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-At9pk40JjaI/U5B-SWNKNDI/AAAAAAAAAcs/3IEC55pARFw/s1600/IMGP5887.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-At9pk40JjaI/U5B-SWNKNDI/AAAAAAAAAcs/3IEC55pARFw/s1600/IMGP5887.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was
having a truly ‘good to be alive’ day, bouncing along the trail in the sun. I
stopped to chat with a pair of lady walkers who were camping at Glenmore and
exploring the region, before pushing on to the bothy at Ruigh-teachain. Since
my last visit there someone has done a lot of hard work tidying up the place.
It was pristine! Even the edges of the turf outside had been neatly trimmed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The bothy was my target for the
day, but I had arrived there by 2pm. I stopped to have a proper rest and a brew
of tea, but decided to press on and see if I could make it up to the ‘Pony Hut’
where I had pitched last year. Then I had walked up from Kingussie. Today I had
come up from Newtonmore. Could I extend my day by that much? I knew I was
fitter than last year, but last year I had arrived at the hut shattered. Could
I do it? I knew there were a few other pitches I could use if I had to stop
sooner. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LfIO9H0wZDM/U5B-VaDAgPI/AAAAAAAAAc0/O7C-1oAu0P8/s1600/IMGP5888.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LfIO9H0wZDM/U5B-VaDAgPI/AAAAAAAAAc0/O7C-1oAu0P8/s1600/IMGP5888.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">While I was brewing up two other
walkers surfaced. They were using the bothy to explore the local peaks, and had
been there for a few days. We chatted for a while, then I set off again, still
full of wonder at this fabulous valley.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q644usxjP68/U5B-baeumgI/AAAAAAAAAc8/gZHxGNhmyUE/s1600/IMGP5898.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q644usxjP68/U5B-baeumgI/AAAAAAAAAc8/gZHxGNhmyUE/s1600/IMGP5898.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was a bit nervous about the
sections of the path which last year had crossed recent rock falls. Happily,
work had been done on them, and although they were a bit ‘airy’ still, there
was no reason to worry.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As I climbed I paused to chat
with Mike, Patrick and Alan who had made camp in a nice clearing beside the
river, before climbing on into the evening. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By now it was cooling off, and
quite a stiff wind was blowing, luckily into my back. </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o4_jEVhnIZ0/U5CDwhRqzlI/AAAAAAAAAek/LVzxBbMWyuw/s1600/IMGP5916b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o4_jEVhnIZ0/U5CDwhRqzlI/AAAAAAAAAek/LVzxBbMWyuw/s1600/IMGP5916b.jpg" height="234" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Finally the ‘Pony Hut’
appeared, with just one little green tent in residence. 12 hours on the go
today (with quite a few ‘snacks’!) Ian Sinclair showed me how he had located
his stove in the lee of the hut to cook his meal, and kindly joined me to chat
whilst I made my meal there too. By the time I had eaten it was too cold to
linger outside any longer, so I bade good night and turned in.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b><span style="line-height: 115%;">FRI 16th</span></b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The plan<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoTableGrid" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-yfti-tbllook: 1184;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">OS
SHEETS<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">DISTANCE
(km)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">ASCENT
(m)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">OVERNIGHT
HALT<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">43<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">23k, </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">14.3
miles</span></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">+250, </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">-200</span></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Camp
by White Bridge<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="4" style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 462.1pt;" valign="top" width="616">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">From
Ruigh-aiteachain continue up Glen
Feshie, passing the shieling & waterfalls at 908885. Continue on path in
easterly direction then descend along the path along Geldie Burn and to White
Bridge.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_J4HJuUx4As/U5CAGCcI1kI/AAAAAAAAAdY/90BB44BZkyI/s1600/IMGP5914.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_J4HJuUx4As/U5CAGCcI1kI/AAAAAAAAAdY/90BB44BZkyI/s1600/IMGP5914.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Once again I was up very early,
and set off at about 6.30am. The wind was much stronger today, but it looked as
if it would stay fine. A brief removal of my jacket was soon reversed as I
negotiated the Eidart Bridge over the waterfall. </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JqIMV_i4y48/U5CAGaE_JnI/AAAAAAAAAdU/VxiF3_8VfJ8/s1600/IMGP5922.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JqIMV_i4y48/U5CAGaE_JnI/AAAAAAAAAdU/VxiF3_8VfJ8/s1600/IMGP5922.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> I found it quite ‘spooky’
there last year – and as I approached again this year I felt uneasy again. I
can’t explain this. There are lots of rather dubious bridges to cross on the
Challenge – but this is the only one to affect me in this way. I wonder if
something odd has happened there at some point in the past, and I am feeling
some ‘vibrations’ from it?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I met another camper soon after
the bridge – thinking he was a Challenger I stopped to chat, but no, he was another
lone walker, who in this case was heading westward, not east.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was quite cross to note how
much the path had been chewed up by mountain bikes – and was passed by a number
of folk on said contrivances who were off to bag various mountains. The boggy
conditions could have been worse, but I did not enjoy this section, although
the views were lovely. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2vaUX5ezPj4/U5CAWxu5RiI/AAAAAAAAAds/0jukXNdq0Hc/s1600/IMGP5932.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2vaUX5ezPj4/U5CAWxu5RiI/AAAAAAAAAds/0jukXNdq0Hc/s1600/IMGP5932.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hitting the track near Geldie Lodge the going improved,
and I set off at a faster rate, feeling like I was now on ground I knew well as
I approached the crossing of the Geldie at the ruin. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After a brief snack
(during which Ian caught me up) we were just about to set off again when we saw
two walkers crossing the Geldie burn. One got over – but the other was in
trouble. Thinking they were Challengers we went to see if we could help. It was
a young man and his uncle, who were off to walk up the Lairig Ghru. The uncle
was having trouble (no sticks, big pack, trying to cross barefoot). Eventually
we saw him sit down on the far side to put his boots on. The young man assured
us that they would be alright, so we set off for White Bridge.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Arriving at White Bridge at about
11.30, I was again well ahead of schedule. I paused for an early lunch,
complete with a proper brew of tea. I was in two minds. Should I walk down to
Mar Lodge and stay the night, or should I push on to Braemar, and stop an extra
night there. (My plans were to arrive in Braemar late on Saturday, then to take
a rest day on Sunday. My husband Ron was coming up on Saturday to join me at
the Youth Hostel for the weekend, bringing supplies I needed.) Musing, over tea,
Mike, Patrick and Alan passed by. Ian set off soon after them, as he had a
B&B booked in Braemar for that night. I lolled about for a while, before
realising that I would probably get bored spending an extra day in Braemar, but
as I had never done more than call in for a cup of tea at Mar Lodge, I would
camp there tonight so I could explore it a bit more. I tidied up after myself
and set off once again.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xwMeND7Hui0/U5CAXH3Qr4I/AAAAAAAAAdw/RBs6x7T35_Q/s1600/IMGP5936.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xwMeND7Hui0/U5CAXH3Qr4I/AAAAAAAAAdw/RBs6x7T35_Q/s1600/IMGP5936.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The walk down the valley from
White Bridge is one I have done many times. Today I trotted down the track, noticing how many trees had been broken or
uprooted by the storms over the winter, and stopped to talk with other walkers
out and about in the valley. I was glad when the trees around Linn of Dee came
into view. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My tradition is to paddle in the
waters at the Linn of Dee. The swirl holes fascinate me. Every time I visit I
see something new. Having my traditional break I talked with a group of
Canadian women who had done some long distance walking at home. They were
curious about the TGO Challenge, so I told them how to find the website.
Perhaps they might join us as Challengers in the future?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I am not sure if it was because I
was ahead of schedule, or if it was just that I had gone into some sort of
‘overdrive’ but I was feeling very strong today, and bounced along the path by
the river, full of the joys of spring! Climbing up to the road near the car
park I bumped into Frank Davis and his daughter Rhoda, who were also heading to
Mar Lodge. They continued along the road while I went to sample the delights of
the composting toilets in the car park…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5ZHnL8Atyqg/U5CAhGbTycI/AAAAAAAAAd4/TZVoOxpn0uY/s1600/IMGP5938.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5ZHnL8Atyqg/U5CAhGbTycI/AAAAAAAAAd4/TZVoOxpn0uY/s1600/IMGP5938.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The sign pointing Challengers down to Mar Lodge lifted my spirits, with a promise of tea for Challengers. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Walking down the hill I once again marvelled at the impact of landscaping after the wildness of the hills.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dFeQkMF0U-E/U5CAnQT0azI/AAAAAAAAAeE/PjcKrwcu4MI/s1600/IMGP5942.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dFeQkMF0U-E/U5CAnQT0azI/AAAAAAAAAeE/PjcKrwcu4MI/s1600/IMGP5942.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">rriving at about 3pm, the Gun
Room at Mar Lodge was once again a lovely place to sit, drink tea and chat with
like-minded souls. After a brief respite I made arrangements to camp, then went
to find a pitch on their beautifully manicured lawn. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M60r22fX7z4/U5CAn7azhzI/AAAAAAAAAeI/yOQUspP8cLk/s1600/IMGP5943.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M60r22fX7z4/U5CAn7azhzI/AAAAAAAAAeI/yOQUspP8cLk/s1600/IMGP5943.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The delights continued. We
could use ‘the facilities’ in the ‘Base Camp’ – which turned out to be toilets,
showers, a kitchen and a sitting room – just like in a youth hostel. Luxury! It
has to be said that I made use of the facilities to the full! One thing I
really miss when I am camping is being able to sit on a proper chair, so
escaping from the ground for a few hours was lovely. Added into that was the
opportunity to meet other Challengers, some of whom were staying in the rooms
at Base Camp. Amongst some who I met there were Margaret and Bernard Fowkes and
Margaret Brown.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I had decided not to go to the
‘dinner’ that evening, as I was carrying food for tonight’s meal. It seemed
silly to carry it all the way from Newtonmore and not eat it. After what turned
out to be my shortest day so far (about eight and a half hours of walking
interspersed with lots of excuses for stops) I turned in early again, and
didn’t notice anyone coming back to their tents from the dinner.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Saturday 17<sup>th</sup> May 2014</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The plan<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tbody>
<tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">OS
SHEETS<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">DISTANCE
(km)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">ASCENT
(m)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">OVERNIGHT
HALT<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">43<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">16k, </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">10
miles</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">+40m </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">-100m</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">SYHA
Braemar<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">01339
741 659<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Continue
down valley through Linn of Dee and Mar Lodge, then to Braemar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">NB
Extra climb and descent of 100m if
path via viewpoint at Tomintoul is taken to avoid the last bit of road into
Braemar<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was lazy this morning, rolled
over and went back to sleep, finally surfacing at about 8.00. After breakfast,
a shower and striking camp it was about 9.30 – so I went and had a tea at the
gun room again! I knew Ron wouldn’t be in Braemar till much later today, and
couldn’t stir my stumps!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Vtm76JTwSaI/U5CIuNuxSCI/AAAAAAAAAgA/r0t38ItpGCc/s1600/IMGP5946.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Vtm76JTwSaI/U5CIuNuxSCI/AAAAAAAAAgA/r0t38ItpGCc/s1600/IMGP5946.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The stroll from Mar Lodge </span>down to Braemar <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">over the Dee via the lovely old iron 'Victoria Bridge' </span>only took me till late morning. </div>
</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4tAgpLc6Ssg/U5CIulneZbI/AAAAAAAAAf8/xWlt7E4tV3A/s1600/IMGP5947.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4tAgpLc6Ssg/U5CIulneZbI/AAAAAAAAAf8/xWlt7E4tV3A/s1600/IMGP5947.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Moments after getting into the village I bumped into Chris and Sue
Marshall, who I had met in 2013 on a horrible day in the Monadliaths. We caught
up on our crossings so far this year, then I trundled up to the Youth Hostel to
leave my bag there. The warden kindly let me have the key for our room, so,
unencumbered by my pack and boots, I trotted off down into the village to do a
little shopping and to get something to eat. </div>
</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FkXZfokXKw8/U5CItALSIfI/AAAAAAAAAfw/vyNXjM5MZcM/s1600/IMGP5954.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FkXZfokXKw8/U5CItALSIfI/AAAAAAAAAfw/vyNXjM5MZcM/s1600/IMGP5954.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On the way I stopped to take a picture of a lovely old car. I bought some bits and pieces in Mountain Sports. A brief stroll around the village, bumping into more old friends from previous crossings and suddenly my body went into 'shut-down'mode. I was drawn by some irresistible force to 'The Bakery', which was heaving with Challengers and which had some very interesting 'Challenge Specials' on the menu. It was my duty to test them out! </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I
was still there when Ron arrived in Braemar with all the goodies I needed for resupply.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Sunday 18<sup>th</sup> May 2014 –
Rest Day, Braemar</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sleeping. Eating. A run in the
car up to Linn of Dee with Ron. More sleeping. Chatting with Challengers.
Cleaning gear. Mending things. Sleeping. Eating. Packing for tomorrow.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Monday 19<sup>th</sup> May 2014</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The plan<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">OS
SHEETS<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">DISTANCE
(km)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">ASCENT
(m)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">OVERNIGHT
HALT<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">43/44<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">28k, </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">17.4mi</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">+560m, </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">-690m</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Glen Clova hostel or camp nearby<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">A93
south to Auchallater (156882) then track up Glen Callater to Jock’s Road.
Descend into Glen Doll and on to Glen Clova Hotel/hostel<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">An early start again: I left the
hostel at 6.45. The walk up the road to Auchallater was unremarkable. I was
happy to get back onto tracks again. It was a lovely morning for walking,
climbing gently to Lochcallater Lodge.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I knew many Challengers had come up here
the previous night, and have heard many tales about the hospitality of this place,
but I was not expecting to be welcomed with a cup of tea and a bacon butty!
What a treat! After meeting Bill (I didn’t catch his second name) who seemed to
be in charge of proceedings, I set off again, heading up the loch. </span></div>
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Last time I
was here I found the biggest dog paw-prints I have ever seen. I was a tad nervous
in case their owner should be in the locality today – but didn’t see any dogs
at all once I left the Lodge, thank goodness. Getting to the top of the loch I
was passed by Steve O’Hara and Heather Elston, who were climbing very fast in
comparison to my tortoise speed.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">To walk the famous ‘Jock’s Road’
has been my ambition for many years. There is some interesting information
about it to be found about it on <a href="http://www.heritagepaths.co.uk/">http://www.heritagepaths.co.uk/</a> .<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In the 1880s a new landowner tried to stop access to this route. Action
was taken in the courts, going as far as the House of Lords, with a decision
being taken that that the historic route should remain a right of way. The name
‘Jock’s Road’ comes from John Winter (Jock) who was one of those to testify in
this legal battle.<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It had been an important drove route for sheep and cattle from Braemar
to Cullow near Kirriemuir, despite rising so high that for many months of the
year it is impassable. Markets were held a couple of days apart to give the
drovers enough time to transport the animals left from the first market to the
second. Cattle thieves and whisky smugglers are also thought to have used
Jock’s Road. In 1745 it was used by about 700 Highlanders on their way to fight
at Culloden, and by refugees who fled to Glen Clova and Glen Esk after the
battle.<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I knew that it was going to be a really big
day for me. My habit is to walk valleys and moors, and not often to climb
mountains. All winter I had been training with this day in mind. Ahead of me
was the big climb. Could I make it? I set off, determined to tackle it bit by
bit. The path itself disappeared, and I found myself climbing the hillside,
checking my GPS from time to time. Worryingly, misty cloud had appeared and the
temperature had fallen. The last thing I wanted on a climb like this was for
the weather to break. I climbed on.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Surprisingly, there were lots of
flowers, particularly a white star-like flower that I did not know the name of.
I took photos, deciding that I would find out its name when I got home. (My
researches surprisingly show the only plant with flowers and leaves to match
this photo is the Wood Anemone. Is this a remnant of the ancient forest I
wonder?) </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Then I saw a frog hopping away from me. Another photo opportunity!
Gently I climbed. It wasn’t as bad as I had expected. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The terrain was mainly
grassy underfoot ...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">... the going reasonably easy, though very steep. The climb just
went on, and on, and on. Would I ever get to the top! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Suddenly I went over a sort of
‘lip’ in the hillside, and the angle became much more gentle. Stopping for a
breather I saw someone climbing up from below. They were going much faster than I
had climbed. I took a breather, thinking it would be nice to have some company for a little while, feeling exultant at reaching what was obviously
nearly the top. After a few minutes I
was joined by Alistair Whitaker, who I had met previously in the Youth Hostel
at Bremar. </span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GcPNEiXn_GM/U5CL7HGHUDI/AAAAAAAAAhM/u4gIw8PkjTU/s1600/IMGP6014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GcPNEiXn_GM/U5CL7HGHUDI/AAAAAAAAAhM/u4gIw8PkjTU/s1600/IMGP6014.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">He kindly took my photo before moving on. Soon I was joined by Emma Warbrick. I was now feeling much recovered. We chattered, catching up since we had last met. She offered to share her
hostel room at Glen Clova, should I want a bed. I was still not sure what my
plans were for the night, but was aiming for a meal at the hotel. Following Alistair and Emma for a while, we all stopped for a late lunch at 2pm at the summit of Crow Cragies (920m). Alistair pointed out that it was a
Munro Top. Not being a
bagger, it felt pretty magnificent to me!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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I have little experience of the
high Scottish hills, though I often walk in the valleys and passes and I had been up high on a Winter Skills course at Glenmore Lodge. This was the first time I had been on the tops hear-abouts without snow cover. For
miles there was a gently rolling surface, with practically no vegetation higher
than about 4 inches. Blackened areas of grass suggested where snowdrifts had
recently melted away, whilst in some places the snow still lay.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify;">The worrying mist had lifted to some extent, and although not sunny it became brighter. Starting to descend from the plateau I suddenly became very aware of how sore my knees had become. I shouted to Emma telling her to go on, as I was having to slow down, they hurt so much.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was quite concerned about my knees, as I knew there was a huge descent ahead of me. I had only dropped about 200m and it hadn’t been too steep. I knew it was about to get much steeper. There was no choice. I had to take pain killers, and just get on with it. I took both Ibuprofen (thinking that it would help with the inflammation in my knees) and Co-codamol.</span></div>
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Stumbling on down the path I was on the look-out for the shelter hut that Emma had been talking about when we ate lunch. I found it eventually, just to the side of the track, a few meters beyond a poignant sign commemorating five climbers from the Glasgow Universal Club who died there at New Year in 1959.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GkQNoRoh4SE/U5CM06o4M4I/AAAAAAAAAiA/O5ezqk-JsGY/s1600/IMGP6022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GkQNoRoh4SE/U5CM06o4M4I/AAAAAAAAAiA/O5ezqk-JsGY/s1600/IMGP6022.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The shelter was very low, with a heavy
red iron door which shut out all light. I peered inside, knowing that I would
never go inside such a cave-like place unless it was indeed to seek shelter to
save my life. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With these gloomy thoughts I
struggled on down the path. There is little that can be said about fighting
pain. In 2012 I did so day after day as my feet shredded. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I took the descent
slowly, and eventually came to the point where the pitch of the path became
more gentle, and the trees in the valley began. Just before the trees was a
crossing on a lovely stream. Stopping to top up my water, I decided to rest a
while. I made a mug of tea, ate some food – and mercifully slept for a little
while. When I awoke, I was feeling much better. I sat a bit longer, gradually
coming back to consciousness, and realised that down below me was a little
tent. Another Challenger. Then I realised it was Alistair, and he was climbing
up to see that I was alright. What a gentleman. After assuring him that all I
had needed was a good rest, I set off again. My knees were still hurting, but
things were not too bad., but I had about 6 miles to go if I wanted a decent
meal tonight!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The contrast between the high
hills and Glen Doll then Glen Clova is huge. From barren mountain to lovely forest then pasture in such a short space is staggering. We have so many
different environments, so many climates all packed into the tiny space of our
islands. Almost every corner brings new worlds to explore.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lvs2WDQ8JHs/U5CNBdpfPpI/AAAAAAAAAiM/uNGLBglNh5k/s1600/IMGP6028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lvs2WDQ8JHs/U5CNBdpfPpI/AAAAAAAAAiM/uNGLBglNh5k/s1600/IMGP6028.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There is no getting away from the
fact that Jock’s Road had pushed me to the extreme, and that by the time I got
down to the hotel in Glen Clova I was jiggered! Remembering what Emma had said
about sharing her room I went straight to reception and booked in. Could I
order a meal? I was five minutes after last orders. Would it be possible to ask
the chef very nicely if I could have something to eat? I was SO glad when the
receptionist came back with a menu! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Quickly dumping my rucsac in Emma’s room
and changing into my sandals I found my way to the bar and a host of other
Challengers including Emma, Jayme Morgan and Peter Molenaar, Steve O’Hara,
Heather Elston and Nicole Moraschett. I ate my meal quickly – can’t remember
what it was, only that it tasted lovely. Very soon afterwards made my excuses
and sloped off to bed, taking more ibuprofen before I turned in. I was feeling
very gloomy, wondering if I was going to have to abandon my plan for tomorrow,
which was to climb up from Glen Clova Hotel (240m) past Loch Brandy to the
summit of Green Hill (870m), then follow the ridge to Muckle Cairn (826m)
before descending the steep slope to to Inchgrundle (280m) in Glen Lee, and
hence to Tarfside. My foul-weather alternative held no appeal at all. Would I
be hurting still in the morning?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Tuesday 20<sup>th</sup> May 2014</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The plan<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">OS
SHEETS<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">DISTANCE
(km)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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(m)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">OVERNIGHT
HALT<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">44<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">22km, </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">13.7 mi</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">+740m, -770m</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Tarfside hostel or camp<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">From
Glen Clova hostel climb to Loch Brandy/Green Hill (347757) and paths to
Inchgrundle (411791). Track to Invermark Lodge and local road to Tarfside</span><b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A fine morning and restorative
night’s sleep led to me deciding to ‘go for it’ with the climbing option for
today. An early breakfast and a quick chat with Emma and I was off at about
7.15</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The path up was lovely! I was so glad that I had decided to do this
route. </span><br />
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Catching first sight of Loch Brandy was a breath-stopping moment. </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My
pictures just do not do it justice. Still waters, mirroring the hills, suddenly
appearing from behind a lip of rock. It was a moment to savour and remember for
ever. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There were little puffs of cloud coming in from the east. I wondered if
this was coastal haar? As the crow flies I didn’t think I was too far from the
sea. (Later looking at the map, I was about 27miles inland). </span></div>
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Continuing to
climb I arrived at the summit cairn on Green Hill and stopped full of energy,
but knowing that I needed to eat and drink before I pushed on.</div>
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Soon I was
joined by Emma, who was doing the first part of today along the same route as
me, then heading elsewhere.</div>
<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KZlsfWKosBY/U5CUpiGj0LI/AAAAAAAAAjg/fzqOeAKI_ug/s1600/IMGP6065.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KZlsfWKosBY/U5CUpiGj0LI/AAAAAAAAAjg/fzqOeAKI_ug/s1600/IMGP6065.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I nearly went adrift following a
track on the ground when I crossed a stile over a fence. The shape of the
ground just didn’t fit the map, and I soon backtracked, heading back onto the
ridge. Then I spotted a long set of marker stones peeping up from the turf. </span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Hiw1CyoWUUA/U5CUvC9tKSI/AAAAAAAAAjo/qQTsJh5m6_k/s1600/IMGP6066.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Hiw1CyoWUUA/U5CUvC9tKSI/AAAAAAAAAjo/qQTsJh5m6_k/s1600/IMGP6066.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I
had heard tales about how difficult this ridge could be to follow in poor
visibility. Over the centuries walkers have marked the way. It was lovely to
follow the route, listening to the birds calling, seeing the clouds burning off
the hills. Lochegar was visible in the distance. I remembered looking across
the valley at the cliffs on Lochnegar last year as I made my way from Gelder
Shiel to Spittal of Glenmuick, and could roughly work out where that route must
be amongst the hills. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Although most of the snow had gone, there were still occasional pockets to be found. This one was interesting, with a meltwater tunnel boring right through the center.</div>
</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I met up with Jayme and Peter on
the descent, but they were aiming to descend in a different place from me, so
we soon parted company. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was aiming for a short, steep section down to
Inchgrundle. NEVER AGAIN will I walk that route. Although marked as a path it
is deep heather on a very steep slope, with no sign of a path until just above
Inchgrundle itself. </span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I7g7Q0UCwlY/U5CU7jM6-BI/AAAAAAAAAj4/lKWZNZ_BmW8/s1600/IMGP6074.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I7g7Q0UCwlY/U5CU7jM6-BI/AAAAAAAAAj4/lKWZNZ_BmW8/s1600/IMGP6074.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Once again my knees took a battering, but this time I had
taken the painkillers before I began to descend in earnest. By the time I got
down to Loch Lee I was in big bother again, hardly putting one foot in front of
another. Remembering the restorative effect of my food/drink/sleep from
yesterday I found a nice place to rest up, and made a brew….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After a little nap I pushed on,
meeting up with Andy Williams and David Brown (from Baltimore, USA), during my
wander down to Tarfside. Andy and I were both tired and sore (I think he said
he had blisters) We both thought David was amazing when he decided to climb up
to the monument on the Hill of Rowan above Tarfside. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VezULzT7RRk/U5CXbwcDOeI/AAAAAAAAAkQ/Mz8HrUD3SFc/s1600/IMGP6077b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VezULzT7RRk/U5CXbwcDOeI/AAAAAAAAAkQ/Mz8HrUD3SFc/s1600/IMGP6077b.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Arriving in Tarfside the
Challenge ‘angels’ at St Drostan’s hostel were in full flow, serving dinners to
earlier arriving Challengers. </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J2c5jUeMjwA/U5CU9YbXZ_I/AAAAAAAAAkA/APn-8I69wyg/s1600/IMGP6078.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J2c5jUeMjwA/U5CU9YbXZ_I/AAAAAAAAAkA/APn-8I69wyg/s1600/IMGP6078.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
John Donoghue was a knight in shining armour,
producing a can of Guinness and a glass. I sat awhile chatting with Russ Manion
and others before wending my way to the field and setting up my Trailstar
alongside more than 50 other tents.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1a_-4FtFHNo/U5CVDBfvHyI/AAAAAAAAAkI/w7YNdNgBpBs/s1600/IMGP6079.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1a_-4FtFHNo/U5CVDBfvHyI/AAAAAAAAAkI/w7YNdNgBpBs/s1600/IMGP6079.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
The end of another very long – but VERY
satisfying day. I had succeeded. Braemar to Tarfside via Jock’s Road and Loch
Brandy. My muscles and joints were creaking, but my heart sang with
achievement.</div>
<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Wednesday 21<sup>st</sup> May
2014</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The plan<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">OS
SHEETS<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">DISTANCE
(km)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">ASCENT
(m)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.55pt;" valign="top" width="154">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">OVERNIGHT
HALT<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<tr>
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<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">44/45<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">26.5km, 1</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">6.5 mi</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">-150m </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(descent)</span></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Camp at Northwater
Bridge, 649663</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">,
01674 840 630</span></span></div>
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<tr>
<td colspan="4" style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 462.1pt;" valign="top" width="616">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">From Tarfside cross footbridge and follow
riverside walk to Edzell (resupply) From Edzell follow local roads to camp
at Northwater bridge campsite</span><b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
</td>
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</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Waking today I felt very lazy,
and had to give myself a big kick up the backside to move. The humidity was so high dew had formed on the grass INSIDE my Trailstar. I had never seen this happen before! </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was raining hard,
and I just did not want to do anything, so I opened the valve on my Neoair
Xlite mattress. It didn’t take long for the cold from the ground to hit me, and
I had no choice but to get myself moving. Luckily, by the time I had made
breakfast and packed everything up the rain had stopped, and I was able to wipe
the Trailstar reasonably dry before striking camp.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I set off wearing my Paramo gear,
but soon realised that I had made a big mistake as the day quickly got very
warm. I ended up diving into a stand of trees and doing a quick change into my
summer trousers. Luckily no-one went past while I was doing so. It is all very
well flashing bits of your body about when you are all alone in the hills, but
this morning there were so many Challengers about, not to mention all the locals
using the road and farmers in the fields, that it felt very dodgy taking
clothes off!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8AK2m6TjnX4/U5CZ8FaAPeI/AAAAAAAAAk8/SMRTZ2qlDcM/s1600/IMGP6081.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8AK2m6TjnX4/U5CZ8FaAPeI/AAAAAAAAAk8/SMRTZ2qlDcM/s1600/IMGP6081.JPG" height="255" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I carried on, at times walking
with other Challengers. Crossing the river </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">and taking to the path along the bank and fields away from the road was nice. It got steadily hotter. I opened my bag, looking for my hat,
then realised that I had not packed it this morning. Puzzled, I backtracked
through memories, at last coming to the awful realisation that I had no
recollection of it since St Drostans. For a while I was very ‘put out’ by its
loss, as that hat has been through many adventures with me, and I was very
upset to have lost it. Then I mentioned it to a couple of other Challengers,
who had seen a Tilley hat all on its lonesome on the grass by the seats last
night. Hope at last! Delving into my bum-bag I dug out my phone, hoping against
hope that there would be enough of a signal to ring Challenge Control. Luck was
with me. I got through, and left a message, hoping that the ‘angels’ could
perform one more miracle, and find my hat, then somehow get it to Challenge
Control by the time I was to get there on Thursday.</span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was hot. Very hot! I was
burning, so I was ever so glad every time there were trees to walk under! Cross
with myself, I wondered if there was any possibility of getting hold of some
kind of hat, or something to make a head-covering from, in Edzell. Anything
would do – even a teatowel!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-f7-h8HTLjWE/U5CaTL84EKI/AAAAAAAAAlE/3Om15POuroA/s1600/IMGP6085.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-f7-h8HTLjWE/U5CaTL84EKI/AAAAAAAAAlE/3Om15POuroA/s1600/IMGP6085.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By the time I got into Edzell I
was gagging for a cup of tea, and headed straight for the ‘Tuck in’ easily identified by the row of huge rucsacs outside. I squeezed myself in, ordered a big pot of tea and a bowl of icecream, then stripped off my boots and socks. The luxury of the cool floor was indescribable! I thought I was ordering one
scoop of vanilla and one of chocolate, but it had lots of lumpy crunchy bits. I
have never had Mars-bar icecream before. Very nice!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Once hydrated and cooled down a
quick visit to the shops brought forth treasure. A cap! Delighted, I set off
down the farm tracks on the last lap of the day – the dreaded march down to
North Water Bridge. Luckily, in Edzell I had seen Russ Manion again, and he had
tipped me off to his route, which meant it was possible to keep off the dreaded
road for most of the way, only having to do just over a mile on the dreaded
deathtrap. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zd5LFesgJFs/U5CbY19K2nI/AAAAAAAAAlU/U3upFoKd3jY/s1600/IMGP6090.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zd5LFesgJFs/U5CbY19K2nI/AAAAAAAAAlU/U3upFoKd3jY/s1600/IMGP6090.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As it was, I enjoyed the back-tracks, and arrived at the campsite in
fine fettle. I was even happier when I managed to borrow a towel from
reception, because I knew my own had gone smelly, and I was dying for a shower
after the heat of the day.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-agKvAxjFz-U/U5CcBjHj-mI/AAAAAAAAAlc/4bH1m2RCSBg/s1600/IMGP6100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-agKvAxjFz-U/U5CcBjHj-mI/AAAAAAAAAlc/4bH1m2RCSBg/s1600/IMGP6100.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The evening passed in a blur of
Challenger chat, helped along by finishing off the nice wee-dram I had been
eking out throughout my journey.</span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Thursday 22<sup>nd</sup> May 2014</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The plan<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 115.5pt;" valign="top" width="154">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">OS
SHEETS<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">DISTANCE
(km)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">ASCENT
(m)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">OVERNIGHT
HALT<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">45<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">13km, </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">8
miles</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">+100m, </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">-120m</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Campsite
in Montrose <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;"><span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">01674 672105</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Crossing
the A90 take minor roads via North Water Bridge, Mains of Gallery, under
railway line at 685649, towards Marykirk
as far as 687653 then climb the hill of Morphie before descending into Nether Warburton
nature reserve near St Cyrus and the sea! After celebration, bus to Montrose.</span><b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WIAD2Raq3kk/U5CcVzZjExI/AAAAAAAAAlk/MVHpxJtmomM/s1600/IMGP6101.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WIAD2Raq3kk/U5CcVzZjExI/AAAAAAAAAlk/MVHpxJtmomM/s1600/IMGP6101.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With mixed feelings I packed up
this morning. Part of me was glad that the journey was nearly over and that
tomorrow I would return home. Part of me wanted the journey to go on and on and
on. In reality, I had become used to this pace of life, to the routine of
breakfast, pack, strike, walk all day, pitch, eat, sleep. No responsibilities
except to myself. No decisions save those relating to the mundane. Easy really,
though physically very demanding. I suppose that is truly what a holiday is all
about. Certainly for me it had proved, once again, to be a perfect example of a
mental recharge. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The route by road through farmland to the
coast has very few highlights. After the heat of yesterday, today was very
cold, with a nasty biting windchill. I put on layer upon layer of clothing.
Unlike yesterday, when I changed from Paramos into summer trousers, today I
ended up putting my Paramos on OVER my summer trousers. </span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_ifDeFao5_0/U5Cc3w6HADI/AAAAAAAAAl0/cnnMNqhqOsA/s1600/IMGP6111.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_ifDeFao5_0/U5Cc3w6HADI/AAAAAAAAAl0/cnnMNqhqOsA/s1600/IMGP6111.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Strangely, today my
feet chose to give me trouble. Perhaps the heat yesterday had left them
vulnerable, but I developed a blister on both heels, and got some sort of
strange spasm in my feet. Nasty. I started hobbling, as I climbed past the
Stone of Morphie then realised what was happening. Time to get my boots off for
a while. I stopped near the top of the hill, climbing over a fence to seek
shelter from the wind among a plantation of saplings. After a break things
improved, and I was off again. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The North Sea came into view. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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After a brief dance amongst the
traffic along the A92, I headed under the old viaduct and along the roadway (which seemed to go on and one for miles) to
Nether Warburton. </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Just as I arrived it started to rain. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A brief stop at the ladies toilets and to look at the new stone that has been erected before the big event of the day: toe-dipping.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CQBqeoNsyog/U5CeBljdhOI/AAAAAAAAAmE/cfe_Vca4ekA/s1600/IMGP6113.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CQBqeoNsyog/U5CeBljdhOI/AAAAAAAAAmE/cfe_Vca4ekA/s1600/IMGP6113.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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Mizzle turned into full
on rain before I got over the dunes. The tide was out, of course! I was the
only person on the beach as I made my way down to the waves. </div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oiAIw3XXSgE/U5CemPkbd6I/AAAAAAAAAmU/rNXCdk819HE/s1600/IMGP6119.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oiAIw3XXSgE/U5CemPkbd6I/AAAAAAAAAmU/rNXCdk819HE/s1600/IMGP6119.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A very brief
toe-dipping and photos, then I retraced my footprints. Uncomfortable now in the stinging rain, and starting to feel cold I ate my last handful of Jelly Babies and Minstrels to celebrate then started to climb up to St Cyrus. Suddenly tired out, dying to flop and sleep, I
knew there should be a café and a bus stop. I reckon that I must have walked
the longest way possible around St Cyrus before suddenly I saw the café. Blow
the bus stop, I needed TEA. NOW! Stepping out of the rain I was hit by the fug
of wet bodies, and with my glasses steaming up I nearly fell over a pile of huge
wet rucsacs inside the door. No matter. Welcome. Congratulations all round. We
have made it! Add in the lovely lady bringing tea and food….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Feeling much restored I joined
others at the bus stop. I had hardly settled in at the shelter when a bus
turned up. Brilliant. No waiting getting cold. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On the bus was Maggie Hems. We
caught up since our last meeting, parting again as the bus arrived in the
square at Montrose. Next stop Challenge Control, another cup of tea and the usual round of signing out and collecting certificate, badge, T-shirt etc together with the buzz of lots of excited people..<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was delighted to be re-united
with my Tilley Hat, so now we can have more adventures together. Many thanks to
the Tarfisde ‘angels’. One of my traditions is that having received my
finishers T-shirt, I buy nail varnish to match it and paint my nails for the
TGO dinner, so a quick trip to Boots followed, as did a quick search for
reading materials in the charity shops before tomorrow’s journey.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z7aFqecxenE/U5CfmB2Q9nI/AAAAAAAAAmg/Hph8r6yzvOI/s1600/IMGP6125.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z7aFqecxenE/U5CfmB2Q9nI/AAAAAAAAAmg/Hph8r6yzvOI/s1600/IMGP6125.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></div>
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Shopping done, arriving at the
campsite was an anti-climax. Trailstar up, quick nibble to sustain myself till
dinner. Spruce myself up, then off to the dinner, where a nice time was had in
very pleasant company. I was able to catch up with many people I had seen
during the crossing, and a few who I had met in previous years.</div>
<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Friday 23<sup>rd</sup> May 2014</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yT69oBHEaUM/U5Cf1ZRqJQI/AAAAAAAAAmo/SmmyGXIgbEo/s1600/IMGP6131.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yT69oBHEaUM/U5Cf1ZRqJQI/AAAAAAAAAmo/SmmyGXIgbEo/s1600/IMGP6131.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Striking camp for the last time I
walked into Montrose, calling into Tescos café to sit again with Challengers
whilst having tea and killing a little time. Soon it was time to set off to the
station and a final chat before getting on the ‘Challenger Special’ to start
the journey home. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">All the anticipation, planning,
preparation, training, anxt and hard work were over. All the delights,
camaraderie, teamwork and sharing were over. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">For this year. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And in 2015?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F-XHKTvpqfGxw%2FU5BSq8MrA3I%2FAAAAAAAAAWE%2FIIWzSXPGByM%2Fs1600%2FIMGP5750.JPG&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XHKTvpqfGxw/U5BSq8MrA3I/AAAAAAAAAWE/IIWzSXPGByM/s1600/IMGP5750.JPG" -->Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17936841596623221054noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3855601948400120759.post-87520163270242468062014-03-10T06:22:00.003-07:002014-03-10T06:22:44.612-07:00<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 20.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Notes from a
TGO Widower…<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">by Ron Griffiths<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i><b>This contribution comes from my patient chauffeur</b></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The wet and the wild<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Home to the child<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Who seeks the next step <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On a trail with a ‘sac,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Not looking back<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pictures to take<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Some will be kept<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Posted online<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The others just filed<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It’s a venerable road<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Or so we are told<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This rut in the grass<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Where the water runs past<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Choosing your footing<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Constantly looking<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">For a safe place to step so you won’t get too wet<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It’s no place for the bold<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Day’s end in a tent<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Battered and bent<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Wet gloves and socks<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tired of rocks<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In the path and the stream<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Not part of a team<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On your own in this game<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A moth to a flame<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">All your energies spent<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hello fellow fool<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Following rules<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">From A to B<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It’s not just me<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Home on their back<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Impossible sack<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Just for the craic<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">For a day or two<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fun can be cruel<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Plod and stumble<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A long day as you fumble<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">For malt-loaf scraps<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In the side of your pack<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">“Fine Dining” indeed<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">When you’re feeling in need<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Of a calorie boost<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Still miles from your roost<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And the bed where you’ll tumble<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Alone – there’s no crowd<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As you whimper out loud<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With the pain in your heel<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And you know you can feel<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">That the flesh is on fire<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But still you’re inspired<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">To do just one more mile<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">‘Til you sit on a stile<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Knackered – but proud<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">One boot at a time<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Yet another climb<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There’s a view at the top<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Or if cloudy – there’s not!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Prints here from others<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">All wanting their mothers<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As the blisters have burst<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And the socks have been cursed<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">For rubbing through skin<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In so little time<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">One day to go<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">You’re getting slow<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It’s downhill from here<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">You can almost taste the beer<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As you sleep on the road<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Still walking with your load<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">That newly learned gait<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">That keeps the weight<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Off the blisters that burst<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 days ago!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Why do you do it?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Put yourselves through it?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">You’ll take days to mend<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There’s no prize to defend<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">You’re safe, at the end<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Making new friends<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sharing your tales<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Of the hills and the vales<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">You’ll see them next year (Oh shit!)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17936841596623221054noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3855601948400120759.post-68901667557383374922014-03-09T23:06:00.000-07:002014-03-09T23:06:17.752-07:00Training starts (in earnest) for TGO Challenge 2014<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Leaving the Little Barn at
Rivington all seemed well – but I was quickly reminded of the realities of
walking with a full backpacking load when I encountered the first squeeze gate.
Luckily there was a very climbable wooden fence at the side…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ascending the paths through the
Chinese Gardens towards Rivington Pike, with the plan to cross the moor to the
TV masts and summit on Winter Hill, I realised the cloud was down low, and the
wind – which had been ‘cheeky’ down at the barn had turned into a full tearing
gale. I hid in the lee of the monument for a few minutes to gather my thoughts,
fish out map and compass and work out my bearing on the mast, and as I crossed
over the stile separating ‘civilisation’ from ‘wilderness’, I just <u>knew</u>
all was right in the world. This was <u>true training</u> for the ‘unmentionable
mountains’, with a full weight pack, navigating through a 20m visibility cloud
bank in a howling gale across a bog! The predicted good day shown by
yesterday’s weather forecast seemed to be totally absent as I drew my hood
tight around my face and periodically stopped to wipe my glasses so I could see
where I was putting my feet. Ah, happy days! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On a better note, I realised all
the gym work and pavement and path tramping over the winter was certainly
paying off, as I carried my pack easily all morning, climbing from Rivington
barn via the Pike to the top of Winter Hill, down to the main road at Belmont
and back up to the top of the hill. Here I had a bite to eat, escaping from the
blasting wind in the partial shelter of one of the big fences that surround the
aerials, and then stopped for a few more minutes to chat with a kindred soul
who was walking her dogs. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">What to do next? Answer: drop
down to the bottom at Belmont again and once again climb up to the top. This is
training after all. I set out in the grey clag just after mid-day, hit the
bottom and turned straight round – going well. As I returned up the steep slope
the cloud suddenly cleared, and at last I could see the reservoirs below. There
were even a few hints that the sun might actually come out….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">From the top I struck out across
the moor once more. I could see the tower at Rivington Pike this time, and
crossed country, yomping across the tussocks and avoiding the worst of the
bogs. About half of the way across my legs gave out on me. I found a slightly
higher mound (possibly a ruin – there were a few stones around) where I could
sit down without fear of being sucked into the ooze, and had something to eat.
While I was there I noticed some other walkers on the customary route twixt mast
and tower, so decided to swallow my pride and follow them, as I was finding
crossing open ground so hard. This brought me to the mud motorway – but at
least I was not having to lift my legs miles on each step to break my way
across the tussocky grass.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My legs were happy, my back was
happy – until the last punishing descent to the barn at Rivington when my knees
started to scream at me. Not bad for my first ‘Heavy Pack’ walk of the year. A
cup of tea and ginger flapjack restored the equilibrium and I was happy again
setting off on the walk out to Horwich and my pick-up. What a great day!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">What made me even happier was
plotting my route on Memory Map and realising that I had just about modelled one of my toughest days from this Year’s TGOC. Today I climbed 758 metres and descended 780 metres, so climbed and dropped the same height as that day, although in Scotland the distance on the ground for the climb and descent is less as the ground is steeper, with a ridge walk between. Th</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">ere is often low cloud/navigation to contend with on the top too - like today.</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Now – I need to extend the distance by about five miles to model my longest
days in Scotland, keeping the climbing. Guess a longer walk-in and walk-out than today should fix
that. </span></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17936841596623221054noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3855601948400120759.post-33634509650577522392013-09-12T09:47:00.002-07:002013-09-12T09:47:55.496-07:00TGO Challenge 2013, part three, Braemar to the east coast<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Day Nine, Sunday May
19<sup>th</sup> 2013</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Off early again, I
was able to do the road section to Invercauld Bridge before there was much
traffic. The worst of the storm had blown over, but there was a huge amount of
water in the river.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px;">Leaving the road and climbing into the Balmoral Estate, I was once again struck by the beautiful woodland.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; text-align: justify;">Small
streams were bankful, crashing down the hillsides. I was concerned. What was it
going to be like once I got back up into the tops?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">I even saw a newt in
a puddle on the path.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">I climbed steadily, stopping for lunch outside the bothy
at Gelder Shiel. Here I met a party of day walkers who were just finishing
their lunch, and had a brief chat.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">The lovely paths that
had gone as far as the bothy suddenly stopped, and I was back to some very
strenuous peat-bashing uphill for the next mile or so. It was HORRIBLE. I will
never walk that section again. Getting back up to the main trackway near Little
Conachcraig I collapsed beside the track to recoup my strength, closely
followed by Susan and Chris Marshall and Craig Smith, who I met at Braemar
Youth Hostel. We shared rather vocal opinions about the so-called path we had
just been on. Whilst in a state of collapse we were passed by a number of much
less exhausted Challengers who had not detoured via the royal bothy.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Memo for the
future. If I ever go this way again I will come up the main trackway, not via
this nasty route across the heather!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">Getting back on my
feet I was very uncomfortable because I had pulled a muscle in my left side
whilst heather bashing. I took some pain killer and carried on. The sun came
out and I felt a bit better. In fact, it got rather hot. And I was climbing.
Climbing a lot. Getting very hot! Then, I got stung by a bee. It bumped into my
ribs on the right side and I exploded in pain. Panic. I couldn’t get my pack
off because I hurt so much. Then, when I did, I couldn’t get my rucsac to open.
I needed my first aid kit! I know I must have over-reacted, but the pain was
immense. Eventually I got out the Anthisan and fed myself an antihistamine
pill, and sat down for a while. When I stopped shaking I put everything back
together and carried on. By now I was in a fairly wobbily state. Shock combined
with painkiller plus antihistamine. Not good. I struggled on, seriously
overheating in the sun.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">As I continued up the track the </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">view of
Lochnagar was stunning, but I felt really terrible. I filled up my hat with snow
from beside the path and sat down to cool off for a while. I chatted for a
while with Craig Smith, who was also sitting there for a rest.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">I was considering
changing where I was planning to camp for the night. The Estate requests that no-one
camps near Spittal of Glenmuick, but it </span><b style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;"><u>is</u></b><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">
the logical place to break the route over to Tarfside. I had been going to
detour to Glas-Allt-Shiel but in my current state I felt so poorly that I
didn’t want to do anything I didn’t have to. Susan and Chris had earlier mentioned that they were planning to camp in the valley above Spittal. Craig had been in the area a lot with D of
E training groups and also thought I could get my head down there.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">The more I thought about it the less I
liked the idea of the detour to Glas-Allt-Shiel. I decided to risk doing what
Susan and Chris had suggested, climbing into the valley above Spittal of
Glenmuick and camping there. Still lightheaded and very wobbly I pushed on,
refilling my hat with snow a couple of more times when I needed to cool down
again. There was something very soothing about having a gentle trickle of
meltwater down my head and neck as I fried under the sun! Finally the climbing
ended, and I was able to drop down 300m to the visitor centre at Spittal of
Glenmuick.</span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">I wasn’t the only one
to have difficulty that day. When I passed through the visitor centre the party
of walkers I had seen earlier at Gelder Shiel were waiting with their bus.
Another group of walkers from their club were late back from climbing
Lochnagar, and they had not heard anything from them. By now it was about 6.30,
and they were very overdue. I wished them well and left, plodding uphill again, following the lower Allt Darrarie.</span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I climbed for a while until I was able to look back and just see a small patch of trees below. I guessed no-one at the visitor centre would see me up here, so I started to look for a pitch.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">Eventually I found a
pitch beside the stream for my Trailstar and settled down for the night.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Day Ten, Monday May
20</span><sup style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">th</sup><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"> 2013</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The day dawned misty.
As I ate my breakfast tantalising patches of sunlight appeared and disappeared
again, making me wonder if the sun would burn the mist off fairly soon. </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Climbing
to the top of the valley past snowdrifts I knew another demanding day lay
ahead.</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By
now I was coming to terms with the fact that peat hag sploshing on a compass
bearing is limited to about a mile an hour, with massive exertion.</span></span><br />
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was delighted to
arrive exactly on target for the bothy at Shielin of Mark. I had been told it
would suddenly appear below me as I crested a ridge – and there it was, down below me! </span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I
popped inside and decided I would have to be desperate to ever want to stay
there – I have never been in such a damp building before.</span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Wanting a treat I
pulled out my bag of sweeties for the day, only to find that the fudge had
melted in the heat of the previous afternoon, and cemented itself into a sugary
breccia with jelly babies and minstrels! </span></span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i9QmwMcqRtw/UjHkYuQgOHI/AAAAAAAAAQE/9FEIsWwaNQQ/s1600/IMGP4551.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i9QmwMcqRtw/UjHkYuQgOHI/AAAAAAAAAQE/9FEIsWwaNQQ/s320/IMGP4551.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My initial dismay at finding my treats
bag in this state soon turned to pleasure, as I bit off mouthfuls of mixed
delight.</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Another mile of
bog-snorkling uphill on a compass bearing brought me to the summit of Muckle
Cairn. Spot on again. I can do this navigation lark well if I concentrate.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Uxs1fFXsygk/UjHkr0KPlMI/AAAAAAAAAQs/3OtbVbnAkzY/s1600/IMGP4554.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Uxs1fFXsygk/UjHkr0KPlMI/AAAAAAAAAQs/3OtbVbnAkzY/s320/IMGP4554.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Suddenly I was over
the top, and the whole terrain changed. </span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4eOEz6876no/UjHkoyHwiII/AAAAAAAAAQc/LoD6aZkENGs/s1600/IMGP4555.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4eOEz6876no/UjHkoyHwiII/AAAAAAAAAQc/LoD6aZkENGs/s320/IMGP4555.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A very steep descent brought me down to
Stables of Lee and the track along Glen Lee. Whilst on this track I met a party
of very badly under-equipped foreign tourists who had walked miles off their
map. I gently suggested that they should not go any higher up without proper
equipment – and a few minutes later I saw them heading back to safety…</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x86zWilSCbA/UjHkpeTDDJI/AAAAAAAAAQk/rCX_LSJuJDQ/s1600/IMGP4557.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x86zWilSCbA/UjHkpeTDDJI/AAAAAAAAAQk/rCX_LSJuJDQ/s320/IMGP4557.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<span style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">…
that is, providing they avoided this little friend!</span></span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was just thinking
that it was time for a brew when I found this fabulous seat at the bottom end
of Loch Lee …</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p1uYri4zmrY/UjHpxG7mtlI/AAAAAAAAATg/aI2q6_A1v8k/s1600/Seat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="226" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p1uYri4zmrY/UjHpxG7mtlI/AAAAAAAAATg/aI2q6_A1v8k/s320/Seat.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">...</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">where I had this magnificent view whilst
sipping my cup of tea.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MVxNgvkTt8I/UjHk3ZsTqMI/AAAAAAAAAQ8/AHswoVkrQ40/s1600/IMGP4559.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MVxNgvkTt8I/UjHk3ZsTqMI/AAAAAAAAAQ8/AHswoVkrQ40/s320/IMGP4559.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pushing
on, and thinking about getting a meal at St Drostan’ I passed the castle at
Invermark, on the way to Tarfside.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m49X_hBJNNs/UjHkzkFstfI/AAAAAAAAAQ0/JwK8NpqaV6c/s1600/IMGP4561+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m49X_hBJNNs/UjHkzkFstfI/AAAAAAAAAQ0/JwK8NpqaV6c/s320/IMGP4561+%25282%2529.jpg" width="222" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Suffice to say I
camped on the green in Tarfide with other Challengers and had a lovely meal,
prepared for us by volunteers from the ‘Over the hill club’ at St Drostan’s.</span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Day Eleven, Tuesday
May 21<sup>st</sup> 2013</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qecaYSwpw0A/UjHlYCe3-SI/AAAAAAAAARU/kPuFbdG96iw/s1600/IMGP4563.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qecaYSwpw0A/UjHlYCe3-SI/AAAAAAAAARU/kPuFbdG96iw/s320/IMGP4563.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next morning I
was up early and off before many other walkers. I saw this lovely willow
sculpture outside ‘The Retreat’, but did not stop in for breakfast as many
Challengers do.</span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-naMVSHmCcIc/UjHlXyQUL7I/AAAAAAAAARQ/yTvPLur2TRU/s1600/IMGP4565.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-naMVSHmCcIc/UjHlXyQUL7I/AAAAAAAAARQ/yTvPLur2TRU/s320/IMGP4565.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In
comparison to the wild terrain I had become used to this farm country seemed
lush. Wild flowers covered the verges – in this clump there were bluebells
ranging from deepest purple though pink to almost white.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YGJqXeZvQqg/UjHlZoda2CI/AAAAAAAAARc/yKyc37rDIPo/s1600/IMGP4566.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YGJqXeZvQqg/UjHlZoda2CI/AAAAAAAAARc/yKyc37rDIPo/s320/IMGP4566.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After road-bashing
for a few miles (when Ron turned up unexpectedly to make arrangements for our
meeting at the coast) I dropped down to the path alongside the River Esk.</span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0bIzRpAYnOg/UjHlrMIzLxI/AAAAAAAAARk/XEkLcTEFrXQ/s1600/IMGP4567.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0bIzRpAYnOg/UjHlrMIzLxI/AAAAAAAAARk/XEkLcTEFrXQ/s320/IMGP4567.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After
a short while, the path just vanished into a morass of rocks and pools, and
become completely impassable. Puzzled, I clambered precariously up the bank.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fbo02bgFYeQ/UjHlrhgFk_I/AAAAAAAAARs/989PUVmoJlI/s1600/IMGP4568.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fbo02bgFYeQ/UjHlrhgFk_I/AAAAAAAAARs/989PUVmoJlI/s320/IMGP4568.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">When I was just about
losing the will to live, I suddenly stepped out onto a much better path which
was running higher up the bank. </span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yx9pyJ__hSI/UjHltadDsfI/AAAAAAAAAR0/Hc6dXbZwdjY/s1600/IMGP4570.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yx9pyJ__hSI/UjHltadDsfI/AAAAAAAAAR0/Hc6dXbZwdjY/s320/IMGP4570.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">How I had missed this when I had originally
gone down to the river I don’t know. Perhaps it was not running at that height
in that location.</span></span><b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This</b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> path was well maintained, and
obviously had the tourist in mind, with seats in little nooks, and all sorts of
‘prettyfication’, including this rather nice wooden butterfly sculpture.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y3pdLeQbDQY/UjHl-rAiFGI/AAAAAAAAAR8/ZHliqO06xto/s1600/IMGP4571.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y3pdLeQbDQY/UjHl-rAiFGI/AAAAAAAAAR8/ZHliqO06xto/s320/IMGP4571.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In places the path
seemed to pass through a magical world. I had thoughts of Rivendell from Lord
of the Rings in this glade. </span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wNUw1dwfIrQ/UjHl_nogDzI/AAAAAAAAASE/H2U4nxCm5E4/s1600/IMGP4572.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wNUw1dwfIrQ/UjHl_nogDzI/AAAAAAAAASE/H2U4nxCm5E4/s320/IMGP4572.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The river cut deeply through the rocks, but was not
as spectacular as Linn of Dee. </span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zKs9ia53_rA/UjHmAHwPKnI/AAAAAAAAASM/TsKkFadXLB4/s1600/IMGP4573.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zKs9ia53_rA/UjHmAHwPKnI/AAAAAAAAASM/TsKkFadXLB4/s320/IMGP4573.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The whole bank became a fishing venue as I
approached Edzell, with steps down to fishing ‘pegs’ and signs marking
different beats. </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Eventually
I came out onto a bridge which was the border between Aberdeenshire and Angus,
and shortly afterwards reached Edzell where I had a wonderful lasagne followed
by a fruit crumble and custard at the ‘Tuck Inn’. Although huge portions, it
must be said that the food just ‘fell in’, to be followed by gallons of lovely
tea! </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Thinking
ahead to my last evening I visited the shop in Edzell to stock up on
comestibles, then set out on the long road-walk to Northwater Bridge.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The
less said about the long trudge the better. Suffice to say I was very glad to
reach the site and get pitched, even happier to sit around a picnic table with
other Challengers, sharing our last evening before having to return to
‘normality’.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Day Twelve, Wednesday May 22<sup>nd</sup> 2013</span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">All good things have to come to an end they say.
I was certainly very sad as I set off on my last day of this year’s Challenge.
It was bright but chilly, the nagging wind keeping my gloved doing the on/off
shuffle again. The lowland countryside was so lush in comparison with the
mountains. I trekked along country lanes – and Ron found me again, and fed me
sweeties before zooming off to wait at the beach.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">One
of the highlights of this section of the walk was this juxtaposition of old and
new, an ancient standing stone close by concrete pre-cast sections that looked as if they were left over from a job at the nearby farm-yard. </span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rALsKO25GcI/UjHnDMsL0VI/AAAAAAAAASY/EsnZzTtP3J0/s1600/IMGP4575.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rALsKO25GcI/UjHnDMsL0VI/AAAAAAAAASY/EsnZzTtP3J0/s320/IMGP4575.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I think they were just there as a matter of chance, but the sight tickled my sense of humour though.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Then,
the moment I had been looking forward to and dreading all in one. The first
glimpse of the sea.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YeAVoxl7cVo/UjHnEOnmk8I/AAAAAAAAASg/SKbFcZS6nBM/s1600/IMGP4576.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YeAVoxl7cVo/UjHnEOnmk8I/AAAAAAAAASg/SKbFcZS6nBM/s320/IMGP4576.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After
negotiating the most dangerous section of the whole trip – a short section of
the A92, on a bend, with no footpath, I got down to the last short section of
the route, to see this warning to beware of toads (!) before getting to the car
park and meeting up with Ron.</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bfgN2jO6xQg/UjHnFYdm4OI/AAAAAAAAASo/CqLtQnt79vM/s1600/IMGP4577.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bfgN2jO6xQg/UjHnFYdm4OI/AAAAAAAAASo/CqLtQnt79vM/s320/IMGP4577.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">At
the last moment, it seemed that my camera had died – but I had one last battery
to record my arrival at Nether Warburton, and the ‘feet in the sea’ moment. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uVT0FwZIUBc/UjHnKIlMAzI/AAAAAAAAASw/HvPSqINOnio/s1600/IMGP4579.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uVT0FwZIUBc/UjHnKIlMAzI/AAAAAAAAASw/HvPSqINOnio/s320/IMGP4579.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The
hardest part of the whole trip had to be getting back up the beach up the soft
shifting sand. I was both glad and sad to be finished – and already starting to
think about my next route!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Getting to the Park Hotel to sign out was a
wonderful moment – but the building was stifling and very very hot, so I rushed
through the formalities and quickly got Ron to take me back to the campsite.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Aftermath, Thursday
May 23</span><sup style="line-height: 115%;">rd</sup><span style="line-height: 115%;"> 2013</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A6ZMGB_efZU/UjHnkyuqrUI/AAAAAAAAAS4/Z9JyYaknteU/s1600/IMGP4587.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A6ZMGB_efZU/UjHnkyuqrUI/AAAAAAAAAS4/Z9JyYaknteU/s320/IMGP4587.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">Lots and lots of Challengers
constantly arriving at the campsite. Unfortunately there was a bitter wind, so hanging around
chatting became impossible. Everyone retreated either to their sleeping bags or
to the pub.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Thursday
passed in a blur of going shopping (I <b><u>HAD</u></b>
to get nail varnish to match my TGO T-shirt) then snoozing, eating and keeping
out of the freezing wind. Finally it was time to get my glad rags on for the
after-walk bash, and paint my nails to match the T-shirt.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-siTyk2wBJxo/UjHnmt8YdsI/AAAAAAAAATA/n-qWrkK3K5g/s1600/IMGP4592.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-siTyk2wBJxo/UjHnmt8YdsI/AAAAAAAAATA/n-qWrkK3K5g/s320/IMGP4592.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The
Park was a sea of orange. I was a mere youngster. I was in awe of the number of significantly fit older people who had been taking part this year, legends like Lou, 84 and Phillis his wife who is 81, from USA, </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-baWUcsg8l8M/UjHnm_fckUI/AAAAAAAAATI/qWwhsS1Q98U/s1600/IMGP4593.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-baWUcsg8l8M/UjHnm_fckUI/AAAAAAAAATI/qWwhsS1Q98U/s320/IMGP4593.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">…and
David Towers, who is 80.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Md2RjGri00o/UjHnxz-f7OI/AAAAAAAAATQ/F0nPgZXmaps/s1600/IMGP4595.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Md2RjGri00o/UjHnxz-f7OI/AAAAAAAAATQ/F0nPgZXmaps/s320/IMGP4595.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Much
wine was consumed, and a good time was had by all.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XAgl33Vual8/UjHnyt2XyfI/AAAAAAAAATY/RRlvLBcFmA0/s1600/IMGP4596.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XAgl33Vual8/UjHnyt2XyfI/AAAAAAAAATY/RRlvLBcFmA0/s320/IMGP4596.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Roll on TGO 2014 –
and I hope I get a place!</span> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17936841596623221054noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3855601948400120759.post-13570372417759429732013-09-12T08:25:00.001-07:002013-09-12T08:25:16.230-07:00TGO Challenge 2013, part two, Kingussie to Braemar<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Day Seven, Thursday
May 16<sup>th</sup> 2013</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After
such a civilised break, it felt really strange setting out at the crack of dawn
on Thursday. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">Passing the ruins of
Ruthven Barracks I headed away from Kingussie towards Glen Feshie.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vWcQPZJDW9U/UjHVoz-gV5I/AAAAAAAAAN4/11cfCoRYdco/s1600/Rhuthven+Barracks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="216" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vWcQPZJDW9U/UjHVoz-gV5I/AAAAAAAAAN4/11cfCoRYdco/s320/Rhuthven+Barracks.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> </span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">For the first time in
the whole journey it was warm enough for me to remove my jacket – at least it
was until I got into the shadow of the trees. Then it went back on again.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">I
was trolling along quite happily until I noticed this sign with warnings about
dangers ahead. Luckily the notes we had been sent before the Challenge had
mentioned these landslips, and I knew the route was passable with care.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KD_SOe2-0aE/UjHVkwCy73I/AAAAAAAAANk/TlsZP2OLkeM/s1600/IMGP4518.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KD_SOe2-0aE/UjHVkwCy73I/AAAAAAAAANk/TlsZP2OLkeM/s320/IMGP4518.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<o:p></o:p><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">The lower glen was
really beautiful. I could see why so many people had good things to say about
this place. There is obviously considerable investment by the estate as there
were long stretches of new paths, and I saw teams of people carrying out
additional improvements.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qGkrAgXAqWU/UjHVnzjyTQI/AAAAAAAAAN0/h2gZRP7serE/s1600/IMGP4519.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qGkrAgXAqWU/UjHVnzjyTQI/AAAAAAAAAN0/h2gZRP7serE/s320/IMGP4519.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">I was struck by the
wild flowers, particularly the number of patches of violets that I saw.</span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">There were also places
where there were huge numbers of tadpoles wriggling in shallow pools near, and
in places on, the path.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KO37FWKHNJc/UjHVnzJoufI/AAAAAAAAANw/k399a-laZSQ/s1600/IMGP4517.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KO37FWKHNJc/UjHVnzJoufI/AAAAAAAAANw/k399a-laZSQ/s320/IMGP4517.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">I
stopped at Ruigh Aiteachain bothy. A MBA member called Lindsay was staying
there and doing some work for the estate. He had the stove on and was brewing
up for all the Challengers who called in. He even gave me a slice of sultana
cake. Lovely! I stopped and had a break for about an hour, before pushing on up
the valley.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">I was glad that I had done so, and had a good
rest, as the terrain started to get much wilder a couple of miles higher up the
valley. Lindsay knew the area well, had given me some insight into getting past
the landslips, and suggested a couple of places where it would be good to
wildcamp.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">As the valley
narrowed and headed east the path was more or less contouring along screes. The
first landslip had occurred where a tree had fallen, wiping out the path
completely. I crossed the loose stone very gingerly, glad that I had recently
been joined by Bernie Roberts, who was doing his 20</span><sup style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">th</sup><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"> crossing, and
had been up here a number of times. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-paA_obWibgA/UjHVt1nRuRI/AAAAAAAAAOE/4tcIPMinQeI/s1600/IMGP4522.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-paA_obWibgA/UjHVt1nRuRI/AAAAAAAAAOE/4tcIPMinQeI/s320/IMGP4522.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">Whereas the underfoot conditions had been
good in the lower valley, as we climbed it got worse and worse. We crossed a
couple of other landslips, and then reached the more open ground of the high
valley. By now I was getting really tired. I had wondered about pushing on
across to the upper Geldie valley tonight, but decided that enough was enough.
I settled for a pitch at the old shieling near the waterfalls. There is an old
ruined hut there known as ‘The pony hut’. Too tired to faff about, I pitched my
Trailstar, I ate a scratch meal and got my head down.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Day Eight, Friday May 17</span><sup style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">th</sup><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">
2013</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Early to arise again
I was off again at 6.30am, knowing I still had to make 17 miles to get to
Braemar, where I was due to meet hubby Ron at the Youth Hostel, and to have a rest
day on Saturday.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Looking back as I
left the area I could see Bernie’s tiny red tent for miles. He had won it as a
prize for something in TGO2012. I can remember him being presented with it at
the dinner in Montrose.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SDgqoZprpRI/UjHYmgkCnII/AAAAAAAAAOY/lHg-j9kXHRA/s1600/IMGP4524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SDgqoZprpRI/UjHYmgkCnII/AAAAAAAAAOY/lHg-j9kXHRA/s320/IMGP4524.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">I
had heard many stories about ‘the bridge’ at the waterfalls here early on
today’s route, but didn’t realise quite what they were on about until I
actually got there. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Poised high above the tumbling waters I could
see that this was no ordinary bridge, however, it looked OK from a distance…</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8iHAtmJ6Rmo/UjHYchMrrPI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/e9HlDiTzqO8/s1600/Bridge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8iHAtmJ6Rmo/UjHYchMrrPI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/e9HlDiTzqO8/s320/Bridge.jpg" width="259" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">… but this sign put
my heart in my mouth as I crossed, feeling it move beneath my feet.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1uKq2WJpdwg/UjHYnn2fHpI/AAAAAAAAAOg/tGplYwdaN_8/s1600/IMGP4527.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1uKq2WJpdwg/UjHYnn2fHpI/AAAAAAAAAOg/tGplYwdaN_8/s320/IMGP4527.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">The first few miles
after that were a bit bog-hopping, but paths started to appear and to improve.
I think I had got onto Mar Estate land. By the time I got down to the ruined
bothy by the crossing on the Geldie Burn I was in my element. I decided to stop
for a proper meal as I had not eaten very well last night. I went to get water
and realised that in all the times I have been here I have never seen the
waters so low – and today I was not going to have to wade across! Last year the
raging waters were well up mid-thigh. Today I could possibly have hopped across
rocks with my boots on. Such are the vagaries of rivers in Scotland.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Pushing on down the
valley I had a lovely walk, but did not stop to take pictures. I was in
‘yomping’ mode, covering the ground quite quickly. It was nice to be on
familiar ground after so much navigation pressure during the last few days. The
section from White Bridge to the Linn of Dee was a doddle.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">It
got really warm, and I was glad to plunge my feet into the icy pools at Linn of
Dee, before pushing on to Mar Lodge. </span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zlt6Y90UmCU/UjHYqfhD1GI/AAAAAAAAAOo/AYssnFjryoQ/s1600/IMGP4528.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zlt6Y90UmCU/UjHYqfhD1GI/AAAAAAAAAOo/AYssnFjryoQ/s320/IMGP4528.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">I was really disappointed when I got to
Mar Lodge. Last year there had been a lovely walker’s café in the gun room, and
I felt welcomed and cossetted. This year there was a message passed from anther
Challenger who was there: “make yourself a cup of tea or coffee and drop some
money in the box”. No biscuits. None of the scones I had been fantasising
about, and certainly no bacon butty. Feeling deflated I only stopped long
enough to down a small cup of tea, before pushing on down that last road-thrash
to Braemar. How I hate that stretch. I am always tired out and looking forward
to stopping when I do that section. Enough moaning. Suffice to say, I was on my
last legs when I got into town – and delighted to see ‘my beloved’ walking
towards me! I don’t remember much else then except struggling to get my legs in
gear to climb up the drive to the door at the Youth Hostel, and the blessed
relief of having made it at last.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Rest Day, Saturday May 18<sup>th</sup>
2013<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Not much to report – taking it easy all day.
We went for a run in the car during the morning, then a little walk with Ron at Linn of
Dee where he took this picture. I have always had an afinity for this place, as my name is Lindy...</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">We went for </span>some excellent scones at a café in Braemar, where we sat and chatted
with Gayle, Mick and others before returning to the youth hostel. It started to rain hard around lunchtime, so I was very
glad to be indoors. The staff at the hostel are lovely – they really look
after Challengers. Ron was doing a great job of looking after me too. I did
lots of eating, snoozing and reading, generally sorted out my kit and got ready
to go again. Perfect for a rest day.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17936841596623221054noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3855601948400120759.post-52620754012894136032013-09-12T06:15:00.000-07:002013-09-12T09:50:51.614-07:00TGO Challenge 2013, part one, Shiel Bridge to Kingussie<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 20.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">TGO Challenge 2013 - part one, </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 20.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Shiel Bridge to Kingussie</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 20.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0duahACg5QA/UjGfHEnyJMI/AAAAAAAAAFE/kZmyA9Y8DoE/s1600/TGOC+2013+Both+routes,+refined,+June+2013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="226" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0duahACg5QA/UjGfHEnyJMI/AAAAAAAAAFE/kZmyA9Y8DoE/s320/TGOC+2013+Both+routes,+refined,+June+2013.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">May 2013<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After
months of obsession and planning, the story actually <b>began</b> in the wee small hours on 8<sup>th</sup> May when I headed
north on my long journey to the start at Shiel Bridge. Dropped at Daisy Hill I
went by train to Manchester (£4.70), super-cheap Megabus from Manchester to
Glasgow (£1.00 + 50p booking fee) and another supercheap Scottish City Link
ticket from Glasgow to Shiel Bridge (£6.00). All hail the internet and being
able to search for cheap bus tickets! Total cost for journey: £12.20p.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The
journey was off to an auspicious start when the waiting travellers at <span style="background: white;">Shudehill Interchange</span> were treated to an
impromptu concert: a young man got his guitar out and was playing beautifully
while we waited. What a treat! Once on the bus I plugged my ears into my Ipod
and zoned out for a few hours, listening to a Clive Cussler audio book.
Surfacing in Glasgow I met up with my first group of Challengers, who were
about to leap onto the Campletown bus on their way to start from Ardrishaig. My
own bus was packed solid, and the journey as far as Fort William was fairly
grim. A brief respite there led to the inevitable cup of tea and visit to the
loo in Morrisons, plus brief sociability with other Challengers, including
‘Podcast Bob’ from Backpacking Light, from whom I had purchased a new rucsac
recently. More about my bag later…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">I
have done the trip up to Shiel Bridge a number of times. It has to be said that
arriving in daylight at the campsite is highly recommended – my Easter trip
necessitated pitching by torchlight. I had a brief chat with other Challengers
on site, then bedded down, excited about tomorrow. What adventures were about
to unfold? What would the weather have in store for us? Would my feet survive
this year?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Day One, Friday May 9<sup>th</sup>
2013<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Habitually
awake very early I couldn’t stay in my tent. I was excited, full of adrenalin,
and raring to go. What is more, unexpectedly, the sun was shining! It was a
beautiful morning.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">I had
breakfast, struck camp and set off down to the sign out point at the Kintail
Hotel. Because I was early I pottered around on the beach for a while, where
the views out across the water were still and mirrored, took photos and chatted
to some other walkers – who turned out to be Munroe Baggers, not Challengers. I
did the obligatory ‘feet in the water’ bit, and it was still very early.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">I</span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">t was too early to even get a cup of tea in the hotel! Impatient to get started I signed out and set off via Morvich and into Gleann Lichd</span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X5duba5tAUU/UjGgICQ5MvI/AAAAAAAAAFY/mVLBjS-QSOY/s1600/IMGP4439.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X5duba5tAUU/UjGgICQ5MvI/AAAAAAAAAFY/mVLBjS-QSOY/s320/IMGP4439.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">My pack was fairly
heavy, as I was carrying food to get me to Drumnadrochit on Sunday. It was also
the first time I had properly carried my new pack, as I had only decided to go
ahead with investing in it a few days before setting off. I couldn’t get the
adjustment right. I hitched it up, let it out, tightened, slackened, and
generally fidgeted all morning. Had I made a terrible mistake relinquishing my
trusty, if a tad uncomfortable Golite Pinnacle pack?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Arriving at Glenlight
House I took a decent break and had what was either second breakfast or early
lunch. I knew there was a big climb ahead, and could see the weather was on the
change. I crossed the bridges and approached the steep 'back wall'. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Other Challengers
were beginning to catch up (and pass me) including David Towers, see here
crossing the brige at the bottom of the climb, and the honeymoon group of
Jacqueline and Anthony Ford and Jacquline’s daughter Emily Best.</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-45SpCS9ms4E/UjGgK8giFjI/AAAAAAAAAFk/VDH8zHOVRM0/s1600/IMGP4440.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-45SpCS9ms4E/UjGgK8giFjI/AAAAAAAAAFk/VDH8zHOVRM0/s320/IMGP4440.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px;">Rain began to fall as I climbed up past the waterfalls heading towards Camban bothy.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Last time I was up
here (at Easter, doing a 'recce') everything had been frozen, and the waterfalls had been fabulous
sculptures. Now the water was running. The scale of the waterfalls was huge –
as can be seen from the tiny size of the walkers in this shot across the
hillside.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">I
don’t like big climbs. Never have. The trudge up to Camban was a trial,
especially carrying a heavy, unfamiliar pack. I compounded this by having a
tumble. Crossing some very smooth, upward sloping, smooth slabs I slipped,
landing on my forehead and nose, and luckily not breaking my glasses. This
narrow escape rattled me, as I realised I didn’t have my sunglasses with me, so
had no spare glasses! Going lightweight, and the compromises you make is
sometimes problematic – and I KNEW I had been lucky here. Getting up to ‘the
top’ of the climb was SUCH a relief, and I set off across the last bit to
Camban, with promises to myself about having a brew and proper feed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The
bothy was heaving by the time I got there, with lots of Challengers all intent
on getting out of the weather and brewing up. Excitement levels were high!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">My
plan for the night was to camp at the head of Loch Affric. The weather
continued to deteriorate. By the time I got to the hostel at Alltbeithe I was
desperate to get out of the weather for a while, so I went in to shelter for a
little while. It didn’t take me long to find out that there were spare beds: a
party of five from Cannich had cancelled. Quickly I got myself booked in. It
was a no-brainer. Nasty fall, bumped head, chance of a warm dry night, as
opposed to a wildcamp in foul weather…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Day Two, Saturday May
10<sup>th</sup> 2013</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">I have heard
descriptions of Alltbeithe youth hostel as “two huts in a bog”, but I loved the place.
The roaring fire and the friendly warden made for a comfortable stay, even
though going to the loo in the night meant boots and waterproofs had to be
donned. Well rested, and delighted to have made a good decision yesterday,
(because the weather overnight had been terrible) I felt good setting off on
what I knew would be a long day. Stopping at the youth hostel meant I had
stopped early, and those extra miles still needed to be walked. I wanted to get
all the way down to the campsite at Cannich, 19 miles away. That is a long day
for me carrying a full pack, even walking on familiar ground. I knew I had to
pace myself and just get it done.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px;">The track out from the hostel was very wet, and streams were up. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px;">I chatted with other Challengers as we walked together for short periods of time. Glen Affric is beautiful, even in rotten weather, but it was sad that the mist was down, so the hills were not in view. Gradually, as the morning progressed the rain eased, though the wind remained strong.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">As the morning wore
on the cloud lifted, and by the time I passed Affric Lodge and got down to Loch
Beinn a Mheadhoin the sun actually came out.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Jaz2C7rM8Vg/UjGj1J0PigI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/R0tg5RgoFww/s1600/IMGP4452.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Jaz2C7rM8Vg/UjGj1J0PigI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/R0tg5RgoFww/s320/IMGP4452.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">By now I was walking
and chatting with David Towers, an amazing 80 year old Challenger. This was his
27<sup>th</sup> crossing. Awesome! I could just about keep up with him he had
to be fitter than I was! He was also heading for Cannich, but had set his heart
on a meal in Tomich, so we went on different routes for the latter part of the
day.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">There
is quite a climb on the track at the bottom end of the loch, then a big drop
down to Dog Falls. Very pretty, but not what you want when your legs are tired.
I was still having rucsac issues, but not as badly as on day one. I was
delighted to sample a newish composting loo at Dog Falls, and then trudged on,
keeping myself going by counting paces to mark off the kilometres to Cannich. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">I
wanted to eat a proper meal. Hot food. Lots of calories. I knew the Slaters
Arms in Cannich did food, and I was hoping I would get there before they
stopped serving for the day. Time was getting on. 7.00pm was approaching. What
time would they stop serving? Round and round this went in my brain. At last I
got there. The campsite could wait. It would still be there later. Food might
not be. I went in, dropped my pack near the door and eased my poor feet out of
my boots. Somewhat sweaty, clad in my socks I went into the restaurant. Imagine
my surprise to find David Towers sat there before me! He had yomped to Tomich,
had a main course there, and come on here to Cannich to get his sweet! Talk
about fast walking. I had an amazing Aberdeen Angus burger and the most
delicious Guinness I have ever tasted. Just what I needed. We also ate with
another David, (not sure about his second name) who was aiming to complete his
crossing on Monday, as he had to get back to work on Tuesday. The prospect of
doing a crossing that fast seemed amazing, especially as I was so tired at that
point, but I suppose if you did not take any rest days, and limited the climbs
and boggy routes it could be doable. Not much fun though. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">I
don’t remember much after the food. The campsite was very nice – certainly one
to go back to in the future. Very tired I pitched up and went to bed. Didn’t
even have a shower, although the toilet block was very nice. Too tired.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Day Three, Sunday May 11<sup>th</sup>
2013<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Sunday
was a bit of a blur. I was still feeling the effects of my mega-walk yesterday.
The first part of the day was road walking, although I didn’t see many cars. The
weather was much kinder, in that it was mostly dry, although still cold and
windy. I kept taking my gloves off, only to have to put them back on a few
minutes later, because the wind-chill was nasty.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">I yomped the first few miles, then when I got to
Corrimony I took the track through the forest. I have walked this lovely route
before, and enjoyed looking at the trees and wild flowers, listening to the
birds singing, and taking things at a much gentler pace than yesterday.</span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Fzkg_01nmyM/UjGlgjot53I/AAAAAAAAAGc/IMh1l81Qlc8/s1600/IMGP4454.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Fzkg_01nmyM/UjGlgjot53I/AAAAAAAAAGc/IMh1l81Qlc8/s320/IMGP4454.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">During the course of
the day I had finally got my new rucsac tamed, and was beginning to feel more
comfortable in myself. I had eaten most of my supplies too, so the weight I was
carrying had dropped. From Corrimony to Lochletter I followed good forest
tracks, so didn’t have to worry about where I was putting my feet. Although it
was not level, the gradients were pretty gentle. I suppose that this section
was passed in a sort of daydreaming mode. I made use of one of the picnic
tables at Lochletter to sit and brew up and to get my boots off to air my feet,
before I continued trundling on down the road to Drumnadrochit. Here I went
shopping, stocking up on treats such as fresh fruit & veg and a litre of
fruit juice. Unfortunately there was no Primula cheese in a tube. I bought
cheese triangles, but was not sure how they would stand up to life in a rucsac.
Wearily I wended my way to the Backpackers Hostel, clutching carrier bags of
food. David Towers was also staying at the hostel, and we spent the evening
chatting. On reflection, this is probably not the best placed place to stay –
it is about as far as you can get in Drumnadrochit from where the ferry jetty
is. You live and learn though. However it was cheap and cheerful, warm, with a nice
bed, and plenty of scope to cook a decent meal from fresh ingredients from the
local shop, as well as to dry out my remaining soggy gear.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Day Four, Monday May
12<sup>th</sup> 2013</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_dapxz7iJ40/UjGmUe7tHEI/AAAAAAAAAG0/BHLvHXQ8JVs/s1600/IMGP4455.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_dapxz7iJ40/UjGmUe7tHEI/AAAAAAAAAG0/BHLvHXQ8JVs/s320/IMGP4455.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">An
early start to day four was essential, as I was booked onto the 8.00am ferry,
and it is a couple of miles from the hostel to the jetty. I set off into a cold
wind at 6.50 with David Towers. He had been over Loch Ness on the little ferry
before, so at least I didn’t have to worry about finding the jetty.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Used to the dodgy weather by now I didn’t pay
much attention to the cold, and had not realised that the hills had a fresh
coving of snow until the ferryman, Gordon Menzies told us that there had been
snow overnight on the hills.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">We met up with two
other Challengers, Karin Moor and Leendert Bakker, from Amsterdam.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6ycPPPM9jTI/UjGmRHRNzbI/AAAAAAAAAGw/a7qV9a27rp4/s1600/IMGP4457.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6ycPPPM9jTI/UjGmRHRNzbI/AAAAAAAAAGw/a7qV9a27rp4/s320/IMGP4457.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Gordon Menzies had
brought a loaf of sliced bread when he came down to the boat. We soon found out
what it was for…</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NWE4keOGL5U/UjGmhWxKccI/AAAAAAAAAHA/AR8BqQwbmWI/s1600/IMGP4460.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NWE4keOGL5U/UjGmhWxKccI/AAAAAAAAAHA/AR8BqQwbmWI/s320/IMGP4460.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Karin had great fun
feeding the ducks that turned up, while we took photos.</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-naiXvxOJWzU/UjGmQfL1CBI/AAAAAAAAAGo/zUAEG0wxfhI/s1600/IMGP4458.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-naiXvxOJWzU/UjGmQfL1CBI/AAAAAAAAAGo/zUAEG0wxfhI/s320/IMGP4458.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Once we got away from
the shore the water got very choppy, and the little boat became quite unstable
as we went past Urquhart Castle.</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hBH09tPYyYo/UjGmmeMmdzI/AAAAAAAAAHQ/rTMpSR344fc/s1600/IMGP4463.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hBH09tPYyYo/UjGmmeMmdzI/AAAAAAAAAHQ/rTMpSR344fc/s320/IMGP4463.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">We lurched across the
waves, and I reflected on how lucky I am to have a strong stomach. I noticed
that Gordon had a lifeboats logo on his jacket and asked him about that. It
turns out he is one of the co-ordinators of the local team. I had not thought
about them working on inland waterways before, but when you look at the scale
of Loch Ness it seems logical.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ED0AU-i3RNI/UjGmzINQ_gI/AAAAAAAAAHg/4qHzLp0lVNQ/s1600/IMGP4464.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ED0AU-i3RNI/UjGmzINQ_gI/AAAAAAAAAHg/4qHzLp0lVNQ/s320/IMGP4464.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">As
we made the crossing squalls ran up the loch. A rainbow appeared.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oYoEeG5xgfI/UjGm3VMaP1I/AAAAAAAAAHo/Dn0RRCFKTX4/s1600/IMGP4466.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oYoEeG5xgfI/UjGm3VMaP1I/AAAAAAAAAHo/Dn0RRCFKTX4/s320/IMGP4466.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Approaching the landing place at Inverfarigaig
Gordon warned us that the landing stage was not in good condition. Trip boats
are not encouraged to land there, and little maintenance is ever done there. We
could see what he meant as we climbed over rusty rails onto a pile of huge boulders. But we were
Challengers – we knew how to climb… Packs heaved over onto dry(ish) land we
waved goodbye to the ferry.</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UYKKTNC676Q/UjGnCfyRVeI/AAAAAAAAAHw/p2PineX2ZJE/s1600/IMGP4470.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UYKKTNC676Q/UjGnCfyRVeI/AAAAAAAAAHw/p2PineX2ZJE/s320/IMGP4470.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Leaving the jetty
there is a delightful climb up a narrow gorge towards the hills beyond.</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d6A6Te9VDJw/UjGnGhpbzwI/AAAAAAAAAH4/qKbCYLAqQi0/s1600/IMGP4473.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d6A6Te9VDJw/UjGnGhpbzwI/AAAAAAAAAH4/qKbCYLAqQi0/s320/IMGP4473.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">I
found it hard to get into my rhythm, and opted to walk gently at my own pace,
rather than try to keep up with the others.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">I </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">was ‘tickled’ when at
the junction in Errogie I saw the local ‘library’</span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ODquNEnF4T8/UjGnKh5r_eI/AAAAAAAAAIA/y0yxawzP6kI/s1600/IMGP4475.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ODquNEnF4T8/UjGnKh5r_eI/AAAAAAAAAIA/y0yxawzP6kI/s320/IMGP4475.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">
</span>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And the 'statue' of a frog below the chevron sign,</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zhP952fQ7vU/UjGrgAok86I/AAAAAAAAAJI/JpjPDFSUulY/s1600/frog.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zhP952fQ7vU/UjGrgAok86I/AAAAAAAAAJI/JpjPDFSUulY/s320/frog.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Someone
living here has a sense of humour!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Squalls
kept running through, increasing in intensity as the morning wore on. As I
climbed it got colder and colder, and the force of the wind became much
stronger. Sitting on the bridge at Farraline I met up with Susan and Chris
Marshall. I had chatted with them on day one at Camban Bothy. They were heading
in the same direction as me, but I decided to stick with my own pace, as they
were moving much faster than me. Leaving the relative shelter of the farmland
at Farraline the full force of the weather hit me as I climbed through the col
between Meall a Ghurrmein and Maol Chnoc. By now the squalls were coming
through regularly, laden with stinging hailstones that were flying almost
horizontally in the strong wind. As each squall approached the bright sunlight
was blotted out and visibility reduced to a few metres. The cold was vicious. I
normally am warm enough walking in a long sleeved Marino wool base layer and my
Paramo Velez Adventure Light jacket. I didn’t wait long in these conditions before
I stopped and added my Rab TGO 2012 fleece.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Passing by Dunmaglass
Lodge looked easy on the map. In reality the grounds around the place were shut
up tight by high deer fences, and I ended up walking miles around the place
before I was able to get access. Add in the nasty weather conditions, and by
lunchtime I was feeling tired and very demoralised. This was not helped by
finding a sticky cheesy mess that had once been cheese triangles. Ah well, you
live and learn.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The
wind was so strong that I had a terrific struggle crossing this stile over a
deer fence. I managed to get up to the top without too much difficulty, but one
there was buffeted so hard that I ended up clinging on for dear life, waiting
until the pounding from the wind reduced enough for me to step out across the
top, and to change my balance to climb down. By the time I got down to the
other side I felt like I had just done a very heavy session in the gym, I was
so battered about. Scary.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pVvJMNLcP20/UjGnZD00rMI/AAAAAAAAAIQ/jRw_DkH_GXo/s1600/IMGP4477.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pVvJMNLcP20/UjGnZD00rMI/AAAAAAAAAIQ/jRw_DkH_GXo/s320/IMGP4477.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Eventually
I was able to get over the river at Dunmaglass and start some serious climbing
up the landrover track around the shoulder of Cairn Beinn Mheadhoin. By now
there was more squall than sun, and I had given up any hope of improvement in
the weather. Taking shelter from one particularly nasty squall I hunkered down
in a big boulder heap by the track – and fell asleep! I awoke, thinking I was
in my armchair at home. Weird! That
brief sleep was what I needed though. Snatching a snack before I set off again,
I continued climbing. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">My heart sank when I
got to the river crossing for the Allt Cailtidh. There was no way to get across
in my boots. Pounded by more hailstones I took off my boots and tied them onto
my sack, donning my sandals and rolling my trousers up as high as I could get
them. The water was so intensely cold it HURT as I struggled against the
current. Shivering, I rubbed my feet dry and felt such intense pleasure as I
put my socks back on! Boots on. Something to eat. Tie sandals on the outside of
my pack to drip.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vU_t47I-Msk/UjGnpSgiQwI/AAAAAAAAAIo/bhr1iyf6Phg/s1600/IMGP4480.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vU_t47I-Msk/UjGnpSgiQwI/AAAAAAAAAIo/bhr1iyf6Phg/s320/IMGP4480.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Less than a kilometre
higher up the track I was confronted by another raging torrent. This time,
there had been some recent ‘road maintenance’ and the track was churned up into
a quagmire. There was nowhere to sit to take my boots off for ages before the
crossing. I would have to approach the water through a considerable distance of
nasty churned up gritty mud. What to do? I decided to follow the side stream
uphill until I found a crossing point. There was a deer track up the stream. I
reckoned if a deer could get up there I could follow their tracks. Slowly I
climbed along the Allt nan Adag.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UVNRbxh7xrQ/UjGnu2PTQdI/AAAAAAAAAIw/byreH22hgOk/s1600/IMGP4481.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UVNRbxh7xrQ/UjGnu2PTQdI/AAAAAAAAAIw/byreH22hgOk/s320/IMGP4481.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Although I was off
route, this was a lovely interlude. Each time I looked at a potential crossing
it told me “boots off”, and each time I thought of the pain of the cold
earlier. I wandered upstream for about 20 minutes before deciding that I would
have to bite the bullet and go to sandals again. At least I had a comfy place
to sit down, a reasonable place to cross, and could see somewhere to sit on the
other side to ‘re-boot’. Once over the water and with my boots on again, I dug
out my GPS to check my location, and took a compass bearing to bring me back to
the landrover track.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Before
long I became aware of the sound of a vehicle. I must be near the track. Then
the smell of diesel. Cresting a rise, imagine my surprise to see two diggers
working on the trackway. These beasties must be the cause of all the mess down
at the river ford earlier. The drivers seemed a bit bemused to see a bedraggled
Challenger passing them by – coming in from the mountain rather than up the
trackway. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-47ijnQ7Qt3g/UjGnkX0n-2I/AAAAAAAAAIg/y7YCigqORIo/s1600/IMGP4479.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-47ijnQ7Qt3g/UjGnkX0n-2I/AAAAAAAAAIg/y7YCigqORIo/s320/IMGP4479.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Scrambling down the back onto the track I continued to climb uphill.
Before long I started to come across snowdrifts. Sue and Chris’s footprints
were there – and at one point they had etched their names into the surface of
the snow. How romantic! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">The constant battering by the weather was having
a great toll on me. I was SHATTERED by now. I knew I was not far from the
bothy, but I kept wondering what sort of condition it would be in. I was
craving shelter from the weather – but was still prepared to put up my Trailstar
in the lee of it, if it was nasty inside. Finally, at the end of my strength, I
came around a corner and saw the bothy. Just a shed, tucked down below the
banks of peat, but four walls and a roof. The shutters were all closed. Was it
locked? Great relief – the door opened and I stepped in out of the wind. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">There is a strange
whole-body sensation when you step from a storm into shelter. I noticed it last
year when I got to Melgarve Bothy on ‘Storm Sunday’. Your body vibrates, yet
you feel kind of numb at the same time. Very weird. I just stood, dripping for
a few moments, then dropped my pack and started stripping off wet layers.
Water. I knew I needed water. I remembered the stream outside and dragged my
jacket back on to go and fill up. Wobbily, I faced the pounding weather again,
and lost my footing, slipping as I went to draw water. After all my trials
crossing rivers and managing to keep my boots dry, I got my right foot soaked.
Cross with myself, I retreated again into the calm of the bothy, latching open
one of the window shutters to give me some light.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Taking
stock, I unpacked and set things out to drip dry. I didn’t have any wood, so
could not light the stove, but at least I was out of the wind. There was a pole
by the door, and I could see from marks on the door and floor that this was
used as a prop to keep the door shut from inside. Unfortunately the wind was so
strong that it kept being knocked over, and the door slammed open
intermittently. I dragged a bench across the floor against the prop, and that
solved the problem. I guessed that if anyone else arrived they would make their
presence known, and I could shift the bench to let them in, but no-one else did
turn up.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V5b4OE7ZuSE/UjGn1YKtBNI/AAAAAAAAAJA/pGBSM1g44M4/s1600/IMGP4483.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V5b4OE7ZuSE/UjGn1YKtBNI/AAAAAAAAAJA/pGBSM1g44M4/s320/IMGP4483.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">The walls were lined
with coat hooks, which was great for dripping things dry. There was a big
central table and benches, but no sleeping platform. The floor was dirty, but
there was a brush, so I swept a corner clean to lay out my sleeping bag – only
to see the muck blowing back! Deciding I needed to get up out of that draft I
briefly considered the table, then realised the benches were all the same
height. I dragged them together and made an impressive sleeping platform.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mTZO6_rHB3E/UjGtRG-9lkI/AAAAAAAAAJU/83zGo7dyvws/s1600/IMGP4484.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mTZO6_rHB3E/UjGtRG-9lkI/AAAAAAAAAJU/83zGo7dyvws/s320/IMGP4484.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">I
was still very cold, despite wrapping up in all my down gear, so after eating I
boiled up another pan of water and filled my litre platypus with hot water.
Placing this in one of my small dry bags it made a really nice hot-water
bottle. Worried about the force of the wind and the window above my ‘bed’ I
shut the window shutter, bringing darkness to the bothy, before settling down
for the night. Briefly I wondered if the rattling roof would blow away in the
storm, before I drifted off to sleep.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Day Five, Tuesday May
14<sup>th</sup> 2013</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Despite
the storm raging outside I slept reasonably well, and woke early. I filled up
on my hot breakfast muesli, plus a few bits left from yesterday, thinking that
today could be another hard day. I had no idea…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vBcqPZyQBG0/UjGvqDRlUPI/AAAAAAAAAJ8/CsDrMwFaBrI/s1600/IMGP4485.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vBcqPZyQBG0/UjGvqDRlUPI/AAAAAAAAAJ8/CsDrMwFaBrI/s320/IMGP4485.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">I put the furniture
back and collected all my gear, which had more or less dripped dry. Packing up
I said a brief thanks to the bothy for giving me shelter, and stepped back into
the wind.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8ekaOVr3ZhM/UjGvml5FCDI/AAAAAAAAAJw/PWmZSZTsghs/s1600/IMGP4486.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8ekaOVr3ZhM/UjGvml5FCDI/AAAAAAAAAJw/PWmZSZTsghs/s320/IMGP4486.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Although a fair
amount of snow had fallen, the wind was scouring it away again, and little
remained outside. I took a bearing on where I had to go, and my heart sank.
Vast acres of quagmire were ahead of me. I saw a path. A little off my bearing,
but it must be going somewhere. Someone in a vehicle had been across this
morass, so that way must be reasonably safe. Against all the things I have
learned over the years I followed the track, not my compass. And followed the
track. And followed the track. I could see Carn Ghriogair and Carn Odhar. I
needed to go across the col between them. Then I realised I was not going into
the col. Oops! GPS out. I was miles away from where I should be. Stupid.
STUPID.<b>STUPID, <u>STUPID!</u></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><b><u><br /></u></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Now I walked a
compass bearing. Now I bog-trotted. Now I covered miles and miles of the nasty
stuff. Now I got a bit paranoid about checking my location with GPS. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">Due to my crass stupidity
and having to re-route myself, I found I was walking directly into the wind.
That meant that every squall drove directly into me from the front. I felt like
the abominable snowman.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Finally
I got myself back on a trackway. It was not the one I should have been on, but it was
heading in the right direction. Every stream I had to cross was flooding the
track, but I managed to cross them all with my boots on.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M5ARUUPjZbQ/UjGvm3bDP5I/AAAAAAAAAJ0/-pq4wCvlrho/s1600/IMGP4488.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M5ARUUPjZbQ/UjGvm3bDP5I/AAAAAAAAAJ0/-pq4wCvlrho/s320/IMGP4488.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Eventually
I started to come down off the hill into the valley above Dalbeg. I had lost a
couple of hours with that debacle, so decided to stop in the lee of the
building and have a proper lunch and brew-up. The sun even came out while I was
sitting there, and I took my jacket off for a short while. Then it rained
again. At least it was <u>wet</u> rain, not lumpy, stinging, sharp icy stuff. I
was just finishing off my meal and feeling quite content with the world when
Bernie Roberts and Alan (?) turned up. I had met Bernie in Shiel Bridge and
Alan last year in Blair Athol, so we caught up for a few minutes, before I
pushed on. They were going to carry on down the River Findhorn, whilst I was
going to turn off at Coignafearn Lodge up the Elrick Burn, and over to
Kingussie.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">The track from Dalbeg
to Coignfearn Lodge was lovely. I could walk without wondering where to put my
feet. What is more, the sun came out now and again. I trotted along thinking my
troubles were over…</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Just
before Coignfearn Lodge I turned south over the bridge and began to climb up
the Elrick Burn.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jKEOQEMEhvs/UjGv4fBqXCI/AAAAAAAAAKE/P0aNbzdnSm0/s1600/IMGP4491.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jKEOQEMEhvs/UjGv4fBqXCI/AAAAAAAAAKE/P0aNbzdnSm0/s320/IMGP4491.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">I had been warned
that I MUST cross the burn at the bridge, or woe betide the consequences on the
wrong side. As a result I got a bit worried when I thought I should have got to
it, but eventually it appeared, well camouflaged.</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jKEOQEMEhvs/UjGv4fBqXCI/AAAAAAAAAKE/P0aNbzdnSm0/s1600/IMGP4491.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jKEOQEMEhvs/UjGv4fBqXCI/AAAAAAAAAKE/P0aNbzdnSm0/s320/IMGP4491.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">I enjoyed
walking up the valley beside the waters.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RxmXpkdGAfw/UjGv9a7YLwI/AAAAAAAAAKU/kyyNY3196L4/s1600/IMGP4494.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RxmXpkdGAfw/UjGv9a7YLwI/AAAAAAAAAKU/kyyNY3196L4/s320/IMGP4494.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">All too soon my climb
brought me back to the patches of snow that had not been blown away in the
valley. See the snow-bridge over the stream. Dangerous…</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aYovkgMGoFk/UjGwITyuGWI/AAAAAAAAAKc/Qmyvzvo5tTQ/s1600/IMGP4498.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aYovkgMGoFk/UjGwITyuGWI/AAAAAAAAAKc/Qmyvzvo5tTQ/s320/IMGP4498.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Climbing to
the watershed brought me back to the delights of bog-snorkelling…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">…interspersed
by avoiding treacherous sinkholes, below which I could hear tumultuous water
flowing.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VCtrq_6nYuw/UjGwRwG5x6I/AAAAAAAAAKs/0nWHNQ-JJ8s/s1600/IMGP4501.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VCtrq_6nYuw/UjGwRwG5x6I/AAAAAAAAAKs/0nWHNQ-JJ8s/s320/IMGP4501.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Shattered by now, as
a result of my second peat-hag session of the day, suddenly the view into the
next valley opened up. Somewhere down there was my objective for the night –
another bothy described as ‘small but useful’ I continued on the ridge for a
while, thinking that it was going to be less soggy underfoot than down at the
bottom, then dropped down the valley-side to seek out my shelter for the night.
I was so tired I really hoped the bothy was usable, as I couldn’t face having
to pitch camp…</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HDrPf5AvW9Q/UjGwarBD6VI/AAAAAAAAAK0/G67TPZQCrlI/s1600/IMGP4502.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HDrPf5AvW9Q/UjGwarBD6VI/AAAAAAAAAK0/G67TPZQCrlI/s320/IMGP4502.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">…
so imagine my delight to find a magnificent new structure had recently been
built next to the old bothy. The river I had to cross in the morning was
running worryingly high. I could only pray that it would fall, not rise,
overnight.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ubktMf9m8B8/UjGwc31m54I/AAAAAAAAAK8/kUHql5lMGhc/s1600/IMGP4504.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ubktMf9m8B8/UjGwc31m54I/AAAAAAAAAK8/kUHql5lMGhc/s320/IMGP4504.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">I opened the door to
this octagonal ‘palace’ and was hit by the beautiful smell of pine, and a sense
of quiet (as a result of getting out of the tormenting wind) After a brief
pause I went back outside to collect water. This time I managed to collect it
without getting my feet wet.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">I
spread out soggy gear to air, fed myself, made up a ‘hot water bottle’ in my
platypus, and without a qualm in the world snuggled up in my sleeping bag on
the floor.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<o:p></o:p><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Day Six, Wednesday May 15<sup>th</sup>
2013<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Again
I was awake bright and early. My prayer for the river level to fall had been
answered, and I got across with dry feet. Even the pounding wind had
diminished. It was cold and frosty, with that sparking clarity you sometimes
get early in the day.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 17px; text-align: justify;">Climbing up the hill and looking down at the bothy I reflected on the struggles I had endured over the last few days, and hoped things would get better from now on.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 17px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">The climb up from the bothy was considerable. I got up to 760m as the track skirted around the shoulder of Carn an Fhreiceadain. The view was fabulous.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px; text-align: justify;">For the first time on this trip the air was clear, although cold, and the wind had dropped. I had another of those ‘gloves on/gloves off’ sessions, but in the end decided that on was necessary. It seemed like there would be a few hours of fine weather. Despite the climb, I was moving well, and it felt good to be alive. I felt that this was truly what walking in the mountains was all about…</span><br />
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<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 17px; text-align: justify;">All good things have to end, however, and before long I began the long descent into Kingussie. Thank goodness for sticks! Before long my knees were on fire as I dropped from 750m to 230m in four and a half miles. I was SO glad I was not ascending that slope!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 17px;">I had planned to get into Kingussie by mid-day, as it was half-day closing, and I needed to resupply. I got there by 11.30, and popped into a café for a splendid baked potato & cheese late morning snack. I had been running low on gas for my stove, not having planned for the extra hot drinks and hot-water bottles I had been making as it was so cold, so I was glad to find gas on sale in one of the shops. Then I visited a real loo for the first time since Monday morning. Luxury! My happiness was complete when I went into the grocers ‘Murchies’ and was able to buy all my usual fresh food treats </span><u style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 17px;">and</u><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 17px;"> get Primula cheese in a tube.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">I
made my way to my B&B (Greystones) where I ate lunch in the garden watching
the local wildlife and landlady’s chickens. When it came on to rain my landlady
told me I could come inside, and I was able to get into my room. The most
ecstatic delight followed that – I had a HOT BATH!!!! The remainder of the day
went down to sleeping, eating and reading. Early to bed, in a real bed, with a
real, <b>fluffy</b> duvet.</span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> Luxury!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17936841596623221054noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3855601948400120759.post-57489676501856573792012-07-24T04:33:00.000-07:002012-07-24T04:33:02.194-07:00TGO2012, the story<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: blue; font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><i style="background-color: white;">The logistics of getting to my start at Shiel Bridge had been an adventure in themselves. I felt like I had won a <b>huge</b> prize when I found a Megabus ticket from Manchester to Glasgow for just £1.00! Travel doesn't agree with me, so I gave myself a day to recover before the start on May 11th. This gave me a chance to explore this tiny place that previously I had just shot through in the car.</i></span></div>
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<br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #274e13;">The night had been cold. Very
cold. Coupled with my excitement, I had not slept well. As light dawned into my
tent I was awake and shivering into my morning routine. Undoing the zip my
heart sank: The snowline had dropped. Only a couple of hundred metres of clear slopes,
and I was not equipped with crampons and ice axe. Memories that were all too
fresh, of getting stranded in the blizzard at Easter, raged through my brain,
and I knew that unless something miraculous happened in the next few hours I
was going to have to start my Challenge by dropping my prime route and going
with the foul weather alternative.</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Eat. Force myself to eat,
although nerves and excitement threatened to make me choke. Get the carbs
on-board. With the cold I certainly would need the fuel. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Frozen hands packing gear, numb
fingers aching and refusing to co-operate. Finally, everything was in my rucksak.
How was I going to carry all that weight across the hills all the way from here
at Shiel Bridge on the west coast of Scotland to the east coast? Humbled by the
sight of the towering hills capped by snow, daunted by the enormity of my
undertaking I went to the official starting point at the hotel to sign out. No
great fanfare, no starting gun, just a list of names in the lobby: fill in the
date and time and sign your name. Underwhelming. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Mindful of the snow, I headed up
the valley from the campsite, hoping that as I got to the point where my route
left the road the snow would have melted. No such luck. I resigned myself to
safety, and a log road trudge for the first leg to Invergarry. Gradually I
relaxed and began to enjoy the scenery. I shared a chat with some experienced
Challengers. Over 30 crossings between them, they had also chosen the road
route today. I felt better about my decision to keep out of the snow. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This was my first time on foot in
this part of Scotland. Flying down the road on holiday in the car had not
prepared me for the sheer scale of the hills, the beauty of old bridges, the
sound of water running in a thousand streams. Water became the theme of the
day, and I chose a wildcamp hunkered down low to shelter out of the wind in a
fold of the shore of Loch Cluanie. Tired out, but more attuned to my
undertaking I settled down, ate, and slept much better, listening to the sound
of the burn by the tent burbling into the loch just a few metres away.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-55y_P993iuQ/UA5_nfdwq1I/AAAAAAAAACI/VGxaaldPexI/s1600/IMGP3635+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-55y_P993iuQ/UA5_nfdwq1I/AAAAAAAAACI/VGxaaldPexI/s320/IMGP3635+(2).jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Saturday dawned bright. I rose
early, determined to cover the miles on the road in better spirits today. As
the sun rose in the valley I warmed up. For the first time I took off my Velez
Adventure Light top, even pushing up the sleeves of my Merino base layer. It
didn’t last long! Starting to climb at Bun Loyne I came back into the icy wind,
and quickly had my layers back on. The day passed in a blur of road walking. It
was impossible to set up a flowing stride, unless I walked on the road – and
then traffic would come along and I would be back on the verge, having to watch
out for every footfall lest I tread unwarily into a hole. My frustration
mounted each time I had to detour off the verge to avoid a recently excavated
drainage ditch. Some of them were several feet wide, all running across the
verge away from the road. Undoubtedly the local council had done a good job for
the drivers who needed as dry a road as possible, but walking in these
conditions was tiresome. The only relief was at a viewpoint high above Loch
Loyne, where some artistic inspiration had divided the ‘cairn’ reported on the
map into a myriad of delightful mini-spires overlooking the view.</span></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X_WGW1Uyfn8/UA5_3ecKx7I/AAAAAAAAACU/0Ooa4RcqYFM/s1600/IMGP3639.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X_WGW1Uyfn8/UA5_3ecKx7I/AAAAAAAAACU/0Ooa4RcqYFM/s320/IMGP3639.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Finally I got to the campsite at
Faichemaird Farm. Lovely campsite – but at the end of a long, footslogging day
it nearly killed me having to climb to reception at the top of a hill
overlooking the site! The relief of a hot shower was paled by talking on the
phone to home, and finding that the previously bad weather forecast for
tomorrow now sounded even worse.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next day was the 13<sup>th</sup>
May. Not an auspicious date, especially with that weather forecast. Rain had set
in overnight, with gusty wind roaring around the site. Somewhat apprehensively
I packed up and made my way down Loch Oich, pausing for a magnificent bowl of
bacon and lentil soup at the Thistle café at Aberchalder, just before my
turn-off across country. Immediately behind the café the first obstacle on the
footpath was an eight-foot high stile over a deer fence. Laden with my pack, my
heart was in my mouth as I clung tight in the wind, trying to maintain my
balance. Heart racing, I got back to the ground. Surely nothing else could be
this bad?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The path rose prettily through
woodland dotted with clumps of primroses. I forgot about the wind and rain,
enjoying my surroundings, being stopped in my tracks by the roadway
disappearing under a raging stream.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H_rY5O_is3o/UA6AI55cGrI/AAAAAAAAACc/qNyEhOjDBDo/s1600/IMGP3641.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H_rY5O_is3o/UA6AI55cGrI/AAAAAAAAACc/qNyEhOjDBDo/s320/IMGP3641.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cursing quietly under my breath but determined
to keep my shoes dry I changed into my sandals, rolled up my trousers and
remembering all the safety advice about how to cross a stream in full spate
made my way across. Shocked by the pain from the cold water I sat on the far
bank, trying to dry my feet and legs in the rain, wondering what else was
ahead. I didn’t have long to wait. The track climbed steadily, as I kept an eye
on my compass, which I had set on a bearing for Blackburn Bothy on the old
Military Road. Rising across the hillside the track deteriorated, and bog took
over. I can do bog. I walk in the Pennines. Bog hopping I am good at. Raging
burns I don’t like. The next one looked fearsome. Tentatively I tested it with
my poles and couldn’t feel the bottom. Adrenalin hit my system. Wild weather,
unfamiliar location, boggy terrain, river that was dangerous. It took a few
deep breaths, but my mind gradually cleared, and I knew what to do. Walk
upstream. At some point the water would be crossable. Slogging uphill across
rain-drenched bog I came up on a herd of deer, seeing one shake itself with
great sprays of water flying off in all directions, before they realised I was
there and took flight away from me. Gradually the slope of the hillside eased
off, and I realised I was nearing the top. Still following the burn I
eventually found a point where I could jump across.</span></span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RQdsTkvUU7w/UA6Ab0e69RI/AAAAAAAAACk/khO1eaEgPnk/s1600/IMGP3644.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RQdsTkvUU7w/UA6Ab0e69RI/AAAAAAAAACk/khO1eaEgPnk/s320/IMGP3644.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;">By now I was a long way from my
original traverse across the hillside to Blackburn Bothy. My objective was
general Wade’s Military Road. I knew that if I kept heading east I would
eventually get to this, so with one eye on the compass I plodded on. The
weather was terrible: icy rain and buffeting winds. I was longing for shelter,
somewhere to stop and eat my lunch, but the terrain was open, exposed and
completely sodden. I couldn’t stop and sit, so I munched dried fruit and kept
going. Eventually I saw the powerline that is marked on the map roughly
paralleling the old roadway. My heart lifted. Not far now! Dropping down hill
and round a fold in the ground came upon a stretch of roadway that had been
recently renovated, with a new bridge. I was disquieted by how much water was
passing under the bridge, tumultuous waters piling up and pooling above the
parapet, threatening to engulf the roadway and vast gushings out from
underneath the span eating away at the bank on the lower side. I pondered
taking a photo, but the conditions were so bad I couldn’t keep standing still
long enough, let alone handle my camera. Crossing the bridge and moving on a
few yards it suddenly dawned on me that this wasn’t a repair to the old
roadway. Someone was building something new. Bemused, battered by the storm I
got out my GPS and realised I was still some way away from General Wade’s
route. Searching hillsides in the murk I spotted the powerline that ran
alongside the route I wanted again. Feeling defeated, after all the effort I
had put in to get to where I was now, I took a bearing again and stepped off
the new roadway – and jumped straight back on it. Quagmire! Earthmoving
disturbance plus massive rainfall had reduced the naturally boggy ground at the
side of the roadway to slurry. I was trapped! Hungry, tired, battered by the
wind and rain I panicked for a while. Nothing had prepared me for being trapped
in this way. What to do?</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">STOP! Eat. Think. I knew where I
was. I knew where I was trying to get to. I was on a stone roadway. It had to
go somewhere. Work out where it was going and see what was there. I trudged on,
climbing slowly, until I could see what was going on. A MASSIVE new roadway and
the old military road were running roughly parallel. <i style="font-size: small;">(I later found out that the roadway was part of the construction of the new Beauly-Denny mega-powerline) </i>They were s</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">o close together. How to get
from one to the other? First I had to follow the roadway as it contoured away
around a side-valley. Almost running now I trotted along. Getting to the
‘jumping off point’ between the two I realised this traverse would be
impossible, as another torrent tore across the hillside. The new roadway wound
on upwards parallel to the old route. Logic said it had to be going somewhere,
and in this terrain, they were both trapped in the same valley. At some point I
MUST be able to get from one to the other. </span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By now I was beginning to get
seriously concerned, because my fabulous Paramo wet-weather gear was beginning
to fail. First my trousers (at the thigh) followed later by my right sleeve and
then shoulder were being pounded so hard by the wind that rain was being driven
through. I was getting wetter and wetter. The wind was giving me a real battering
and no-where gave any shelter at all. I lost track of distance, crabbing into
the wind and keeping my eye on the powerline that I know rose above the old
Military Road. </span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Suddenly the new roadway stopped. The cut made by diggers just
stopped and I clambered out from the man-made tumble onto virgin hillside. I
saw rocks looming in the murk and headed towards them, lying in the lea to seek
a little shelter from the wind as I stuffed food into my mouth. As I ate I
realised that I was lying in running water, as the whole hillside was awash. My
clothes were so wet by now that I didn’t care, but the shelter afforded by the
rocks was minimal, and I was chilling quickly. I had to stay moving to stay
warm. I dragged myself to my feet and pushed myself upwards, striving to get to
the powerlines. NEVER had I felt so glad as I recognised the real old road! I couldn’t
stop. </span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Soaked to the knickers by now, in pounding rain and wind that kept
knocking me over I fought my way up to the summit of the pass. Old snow lay on
the ground, slick in the rain. I thanked my lucky stars that it was rain
falling on me, not snow. Brain numb I realised I had come to the crest. Suddenly I was
hit by a surge of excitement that spurred me on as I realised that at last I
was going down hill. Before I knew it I was running, pressed on by the wind.
Mindful of the dangers I realised that if I continued I would probably fall, so
I slowed my speed, confident now that I would eventually find some shelter.
Then, a river. Too wide to jump. Flowing fast. Sandals? Why bother? I was
already soaked completely. Tentatively I waded through, glad once again to have
my poles. Over and over again I waded through torrents coming down the valley.
One crossing turned out to be across a wooden bridge inches deep under the
surface of a stream.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;">I was shivering now. It was
getting late. Sudden elation: I spotted trees - I knew the bothy couldn’t be
too far. The roadway down the valley had turned into a river running inches
deep. I sploshed on, adrenaline burning in my system. Gasping, I finally made
it into the Bothy. Surely someone else would be here? Silence. On my own.
Shaking I fumbled to get off my pack, leaving vast puddles on the floor. About
to strip off my wet clothes I suddenly remembered I needed water, and headed
out again to collect water from by the bridge. As I stood on the edge of the
stream the water was rising. In the few minutes it took to fill my water
bottles the stream rose to engulf my precarious foothold. I have never seen
water rising so fast.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Back inside. Strip off wet
clothes. Try to get dry. Shaking I put on the precious contents of my drybag,
got out my stove and boiled water. Food Drink. Fill my platypus with warm water
to make a hotwater bottle. Hang wet clothes to drip overnight. Sleeping bag.
Aching with the aftermath I gradually eased back to some state of normality,
listening to the weather howling around outside. Sleep came eventually.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Dawn brought with it the certain
knowledge that I had to get going again. Breakfast. Wet clothes on. Dry ones
back in the precious drybags. The storm had blown over, the snowline dropped
again (thank goodness I got down before rain turned to snow) and rain had
become intermittent showers as I headed on down the valley to Laggan Bridge,
passing very bedraggled cows and further evidence of the storm from the
previous day.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Arriving at Lagan Bridge, I
quickly found the famous Laggan Stores, featured in the TV series ‘Monarch of
the Glen’. I explored the famous emporium. It was better stocked than many city
stores, a real Aladdin’s cave. I felt shellshocked at the return to normality.
Pitching on the grass by the shop I stocked up with goodies and spent the rest
of the evening eating and snoozing. </span></span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KaUJA8TmuoA/UA6CPu8couI/AAAAAAAAADI/9YVs5r2mN2g/s1600/IMGP3661.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KaUJA8TmuoA/UA6CPu8couI/AAAAAAAAADI/9YVs5r2mN2g/s320/IMGP3661.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Later I was joined by another Challenger
who had come all the way from Fort Augustus, crossing the pass in four hours,
where it had taken me all day! What a difference the weather makes.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next day can best be
described as a ‘trundle’ through
Dalwhinnie, where a lovely lunch was had in the Toll House Grill meeting other
Challengers. After lunch I continued the trundle, accompanied by snow showers
rattling along the valley, taking the cycle route up the pass of Drumochter,
wildcamping just over the summit in a pleasant little spot out of the wind. I
was greatly amused to watch a helicopter carrying huge white bags of stone to
the route of a pathway up a hillside opposite, dropping them at regular
intervals up the hillside. Tired out again I ate quickly then fell asleep. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The morning saw my tent dry for
the first time since arriving at Shiel Bridge. This was because as snow showers
crashed through the wind quickly blew the snow away! Better than soggy though.
Picturesque mountain scenery mellowed as I approached Blair Atholl, with a
civilised campsite, the luxury of a shower and dinner with other Challengers in
a local hotel. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Rain returned for my trip along
Glen Tilt, with me rarely able to take down the hood of my jacket, not that
there was much scenery to be seen, as all the tops were obscured by murk. It
was pretty down in the valley itself, especially in the lower wooded areas, but
not the best trip through the Glen that I have had. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;">With the amount of rain falling
throughout the day the rivers were up. All day long I knew I was heading for
the major crossing of the Geldie Burn before I could camp for the night. I
planned to stop by the ruined bothy just over the crossing, or to head down to
White Bridge which I knew was a popular gathering point for Challengers. I
continued climbing up Glen Tilt thinking about the rivers I had crossed on
Sunday on the Corrieyairack Pass before getting to Melgarve Bothy. My concern
mounted as the weather continued to deteriorate.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Crossing the Geldie Burn was a
major undertaking as it was running deep, fast, wide and cold. Chilled from
crossing and stung by the windchill on the far bank I pressed on far beyond my
intended possible campsites, as everyone was getting out of the wind, finally
ending up where I knew there was shelter in the Linn of Dee. The car park there
provided not only shelter but a toilet too! Luxury.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next morning saw watery
sunshine and showers as I packed up early from the car park and headed down to
Braemar via Mar Lodge. The welcome afforded to Challengers at Mar Lodge is
brilliant! Tea, scones, butties, and most importantly a roaring log fire under
a great copper canopy in the middle of the gun room. I took a well earned
time-out here, chatting with other Challengers, some of whom were going to stop
the night here. It was a feat of will-power to get back on my feet and finish
off the few miles into Braemar. Knowing the youth hostel is up the hill from
the village centre I called in the shops before booking in, knowing I would
only want to eat and sleep once I had arrived!</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The treat of a rest day passed
all too quickly, and before I knew it I was eating breakfast, watching
squirrels playing on the feeder outside the Hostel’s kitchen window and
finalising my packing before getting back on the way again. Although weather
forecasts were hopeful of better weather for the second half of my journey, the
bad conditions I had experienced so far had taken their toll and I felt very
tired still, despite a day off. I decided to take my gentler alternative route
out to the coast, through Ballater and ending at Stonehaven.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The royal estates at Balmoral
contain some of the most beautiful woodland I have ever visited. The sun shone
all day and at last I began to feel the joy that walking usually brings to me.
Throughout the day I walked along with various different groups of challengers.
There was a sizeable contingent of us on the campsite that night. Talking with
some of them I realised that I could avaid some road walking the next day by
picking up a cycle route built on an old railway line, following it to Aboyne
and then getting back on my original route. Setting off early in the morning I
was delighted to find a bakery open in Ballater, stocking up on bread buns and
a Dundee cake to supplement my usual rations. The cycle route was lovely. With
the bonus of walking by an aerodrome and watching many take-offs of
tow-plane/glider pairs. Unfortunately my feet began to suffer badly in the
heat. Blisters were forming and I had to take my pen-knife to my shoes,
removing some of the tension bands to allow my poor swollen feet more room.
Pain killers kept me moving, but by 3.30 I had had enough. Crossing the river
Dee at Aboyne I dropped down on the bank below the parapet, brewed up ate, then
slept for more than an hour. Waking somewhat refreshed I pressed on, very
footsore, finally pitching camp (in someone’s garden as I couldn’t find
anything suitable near the roadside) near Marywell that night. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The countryside had changed in
character here, the wild mountains behind me, and this morning began with
rolling farmland as far as the eye could see. This was a day of excitements:
getting to the last map that I would be using was hugely exhilarating. I might
not be able to see the sea, but I could open my map and see it at the far edge
of the page! The next joy came on seeing my first road sign for ‘Stonehaven’.
Jubilation! Then I noticed what was right beside the road sign. It was a flood
depth marker. I was glad to be here on a sunny day, and wondered what
conditions had been like during the previous week when I had experienced such
wild weather?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vdjK3DJIX8k/UA6ENh-33CI/AAAAAAAAADg/P7rryWOZkwU/s1600/Stonehaven+sign.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;"><img border="0" height="229" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vdjK3DJIX8k/UA6ENh-33CI/AAAAAAAAADg/P7rryWOZkwU/s320/Stonehaven+sign.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Fetteresso Forest has a bad
reputation in Challenger circles, with dire warnings about how easy it is to
get lost. Conscious of previous problems I had experienced in other forests I approached
this vast woodland with some trepidation, seeing the coniferous spread over
hills into the distance. Carefully I kept myself alert using map and compass,
double checking now and again with my GPS. Despite the pain from my feet I
enjoyed climbing up the trail – and loved stopping for a break at the incongruous
‘TWO SHEDS’ It was obviously a workman’s hut, set in the midst of a patch of
cleared forest. I was delighted by a seat carved (by chainsaw?) from the stump
of a tree, and located by a rusty barbeque and a picnic table on their
‘balcony’.</span></span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7evLpUnGunk/UA6EiMFAsrI/AAAAAAAAADo/DsMQkGTAjLg/s1600/IMGP3726.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7evLpUnGunk/UA6EiMFAsrI/AAAAAAAAADo/DsMQkGTAjLg/s320/IMGP3726.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I had two possible sites in mind
for pitching in mind that night, but when I reached the first glen decided to
go no further. Meeting another Challenger just a few minutes before arriving we
decided it was perfect. A stream for water, grassy level patches and not too
many flies. I decided to cross the stream before pitching – too distrustful of
streams by now, wondering what would happen to it is there was a thunderstorm.
Another Challenger turned up about half an hour later. I was so tired I could
not eat my meal, so went to sleep, vowing to have supper if I woke later. I
did: semolina pudding and jam by moonlight. Different!</span></span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JK4tK4VoBx0/UA6Ex_XdGnI/AAAAAAAAAD0/eDFLfYow8ng/s1600/IMGP3734.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JK4tK4VoBx0/UA6Ex_XdGnI/AAAAAAAAAD0/eDFLfYow8ng/s320/IMGP3734.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Waking very early the next
morning I realised I should make it to the sea today. I got up quickly,
ate, stuck camp, packed and was off before 6am. Taking a photo as I left the
secluded glen the sun was just about to reach the other tents as I left them
behind. Later on, camped in Montrose, I met up with the other two from the
wildcamp site. They also got up early, but and were very disappointed to have
found me gone long before they had surfaced! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Leaving the forest behind I
emerged once again into farm country, passing by more horses than I think I
have ever seen on one day. The air was hot, strongly scented with broom and
gorse. I knew there was one more set of hills to cross before the sea. On and
on I toiled in the heat. Would this hill never end? False summit after false
summit taunted me. Where was the sea hiding?</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TDdWKEy3zPw/UA6E_R1-IZI/AAAAAAAAAD8/mBiyjAXjjMo/s1600/IMGP3738.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TDdWKEy3zPw/UA6E_R1-IZI/AAAAAAAAAD8/mBiyjAXjjMo/s320/IMGP3738.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Finally I rounded a corner, and
there in the distance, shrouded in mist was the unmistakable outline that I was
seeking. I dropped down on the road verge and phoned home, too overcome to do
anything else for a few minutes. Having built myself up for so long, it was
just too much for me!</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The last lap became an odd
shuffle, pushing blisters on, counting the paces that marked kilometre upon
kilometre until I hit the boundary for Stonehaven. I had run out of water, too
rushed to get to the coast to stop and fill my container again, so seeing a
first shop by a petrol station was a great relief. Water, Red Bull, fruit,
tomatoes, cheese, bread. Sitting down outside the shop I drank the Red Bull and
ate a banana before the last creaking push.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rL-wLuKp3hc/UA6Fp4AlARI/AAAAAAAAAEE/NWfiB_5ocl4/s1600/IMGP3741.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rL-wLuKp3hc/UA6Fp4AlARI/AAAAAAAAAEE/NWfiB_5ocl4/s320/IMGP3741.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There is something weird about
how the mind behaves when you get to that last stage, when your body is
screaming out in pain to stop and get your weight off your feet. Every step is
a torment, every kilometre seems to stretch interminably as you head for the
beach. There is huge anti-climax on arriving there, knowing you can at last put
your feet in the water, take the obligatory photos and <b>STOP</b>, before making a mad scramble to catch the bus for Montrose to
sign out at Challenge Control.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: red; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Would I do it again. Yes. Of course. But only when my feet get better!</i></span></div>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17936841596623221054noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3855601948400120759.post-43562884765311149222012-07-24T02:58:00.000-07:002012-07-24T02:58:08.091-07:00More anticipation - and a Winter's tale<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 16px; line-height: 19px;">The Easter break saw me escape to do a section of the Pennine Way. My husband dropped me off at Malham and I headed north. </span>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 119%;">Before I knew it I was at Pen-y-ghent, pitching camp at Horton</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 119%;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 119%;">that evening.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 119%; text-align: justify;">A clear sky meant that a chilly night ensued. My alarm woke me just before dawn to find the tent frozen solid—condensation from my breath on the inside had turned to ice and outside there was a thick layer of frost. As it was so cold there was no point trying to use my gas stove (it was too cold for the gas to vaporise) so I used my tiny ‘White Box’ meths stove to heat the water for my quick breakfast</span></div>
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<span lang="en-GB" style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 119%; text-align: justify;">Just </span><span lang="en-GB" style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 119%; text-align: justify; text-decoration: underline;">how</span><span lang="en-GB" style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 119%; text-align: justify;"> frosty was brought home to me when I struck camp, finding a clear footprint of the tent left in the frost on the grass.</span></div>
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<span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12.0pt; language: en-GB; line-height: 119%; mso-ansi-language: en-GB; mso-arabic-font-family: Arial; mso-armenian-font-family: Arial; mso-ascii-font-family: Arial; mso-currency-font-family: Arial; mso-cyrillic-font-family: Arial; mso-default-font-family: Arial; mso-greek-font-family: Arial; mso-hebrew-font-family: Arial; mso-latin-font-family: Arial; mso-latinext-font-family: Arial; mso-ligatures: none;">Days two and three saw me getting into my stride. I was walking well, despite carrying my camping kit, about a kilo of dehydrated food for each day, and starting each day with two and a half litres of water in my pack. Great Shunner Fell tested me: the path of loose stone coming down into Thwaite was a nightmare, but generally I was really pleased with how things were going. </span><span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12.0pt; language: en-GB; line-height: 119%; mso-arabic-font-family: Arial; mso-armenian-font-family: Arial; mso-ascii-font-family: Arial; mso-currency-font-family: Arial; mso-cyrillic-font-family: Arial; mso-default-font-family: Arial; mso-greek-font-family: Arial; mso-hebrew-font-family: Arial; mso-latin-font-family: Arial; mso-latinext-font-family: Arial; mso-ligatures: none;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="en-GB" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 119%;">Even the rain as I climbed up from Keld to the famous Tan Hill Inn did very little to dampen my spirits—and the bacon butty at the Inn was pure heaven! Setting out across the moors again I was in great fettle, and made good time, passing the campsite that I had intended to use early in the afternoon. Not wanting to hang around in camp and get cold I pressed on, having looked at my map and spotted a number of possible wildcamp locations up on the moors that I could reach later in the day. </span><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 119%;">I was having a wonderful time.
The countryside was full of variety, with new wonders appearing every mile.
Throughout my trip I was accompanied by the call of grouse, some of which
seemed to have little fear as I tramped by them. </span><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 119%;">The walking was going well. My
gear was performing to plan, and I was happy that my dehydrated food was supplying my
needs. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">At around 2.30pm I started to
feel cold – unusual because I ‘walk warm’. Pulling in below a wall I added
layers and ate a snack. Musing, I noticed a tiny white flake landing on my
black trousers. Others joined it. Snow? Surely not? Within moments larger
flakes began to fall. The forecast had mentioned snow showers, and I was up
high… Vague disquiet jangled at the back of my brain.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Snack over, I stood up and drew
away from the wall. The wind had risen and I soon found myself hugging closely
to the line of the wall for relief from its icy grip. My alarm bells were now
going full belt. It became obvious that this was no brief snow shower, but
something more serious. I had already passed my ‘plan A’ campsite. I needed to
divert somewhere with shelter for the night. A village was not too far away.
Surely there would be a B&B or a pub there?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A frustrating walk down through paths which one minute
were clearly marked and then vanished brought a sense of unreality to the
afternoon. I was jolted by seeing a clump of violets nestling into a bank,
surrounded by gathering snow. Memories of picking violets for my grandmother
came flooding back to me as tiredness conspired to overwhelm me with emotion.
Taking deep breaths I pressed on, finally finding my way into the village.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; text-align: justify;">Yes! There was a hotel. I plodded
up the slippy pathway only to find the door closed and locked. I rang the bell
and waited. Nothing happened. Rang again and again. Knocked loudly, with
increasing frustration. No-one there. What to do?</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I set out again to find somewhere
else to go. No shop. Nothing. Bus shelter. Phone box. No-one about.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Exhausted and a little shaken I
took refuge in the bus shelter. What I would have given for a seat! I got out
the mat from my pack and sat on the floor, watching swirls of snow drifting
down on me. At least I was out of the worst of the wind in here. I knew my blood sugar was low so I <o:p></o:p><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span style="background-color: white;">made my tea, meths stove on the concrete
floor. Still the snow fell – but now it was driving down with increasing
intensity. My brain weighed options. I knew I was not equipped for moorlands in
the snow, much less for moorlands in blizzard conditions. Snow had been falling
for three hours, and seemed set to continue. The wind was now howling around
the bus shelter. With a heavy heart I rang home and said “come and get me while
the roads are still open”.</span></span></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Expecting a couple of hours wait
I put on all my spare clothes and hunkered down. Imagine my horror a few hours
later to receive a phone-call from my husband to tell me he was stuck, and that
the road was closed. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By now everyone in the village seemed
to be ‘battened down’ for the night. It was too late for a stranger to go
knocking on the doors of houses. Years and years of reading about survival
kicked in. I had all my camping gear with me, just couldn’t erect my tent
because of the concrete around me. I dragged out my sleeping bag, and wrapped
the tent around me, pulling it up over my head. I left a little opening for
ventilation, trying to keep it clear of the snow that was wafting into the
shelter as the wind eddied around.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I drifted in and out of sleep, with cold and my
bladder sending increasingly urgent messages to me. By midnight, something had
to be done. Conscious of being in a potentially public location (though not
aware of anyone moving around) I made use of my billy-can. Bliss! </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Knowing that I needed to keep
energy levels up I gathered easy to eat snacks and retreated back into my
rather damp, but fairly sheltered corner, huddled under the tent, trying to get
warm enough to sleep again.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Stories I had read about climbers
benighted on major peaks floated through my mind as I eased aching hips and
kept my fingers and toes moving. My situation may be cold and damp, but was far
less precarious than theirs, and I was sure that in the morning I would be able
to resolve things. It was a question of ‘getting through’ as safely as
possible. </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Eventually I slept, fitfully,
coming back to the surface aching with cold, easing myself out and slipping
back to sleep again for a little while longer.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">Daylight
came. Peeling back the tent above me the cold hit like a slap on the face. Careful!
Stay warm. Eat some more food. Think. Curl up again. Limbo.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">My </span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 115%;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 115%;">phone rang.
Numb fingers in damp gloves fighting with the zip on my jacket pocket. I talk
with my husband – at least he is safe back home again. The police helped after
the lorries got stuck last night. The road is still closed. All roads heading
my way are closed. I realised that I needed to find my own way out of here.
While we talked, a blackbird hopped into the shelter and rooted in leaves piled
up by the wind in the corner.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Suddenly galvanised I got up from
my little damp cocoon, finding the shocking cold less intolerable than I had
feared. Inches of snow had fallen outside the bus shelter, with a fair amount
winnowed inside on the eddies. Brushing snow off my gear, I quickly packed up,
resolving to find someone – anyone- who could point me firstly in the direction
of some proper shelter and secondly suggest a way home.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7FtFSSzj188/UA5v1p0ryYI/AAAAAAAAABs/ILCmUSL0lpM/s1600/IMGP3529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7FtFSSzj188/UA5v1p0ryYI/AAAAAAAAABs/ILCmUSL0lpM/s320/IMGP3529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was lucky, and found a
wonderful stranger who not only provided hot tea and a warm place to rest, but
later took me in his Range Rover to a railway station to go home. Many, many
thanks to him yet again.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So, what did I learn?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Extremes of weather constantly
challenge us in our land – this stretched the boundaries for me. On this trip I
left my bivvy bag at home as I had packed my tent. Mistake. From now on the bag
will have a permanent place in my pack, no matter where or when I go!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And what about strengths? I had
just about enough knowledge to cope, to make myself fairly safe in a difficult
situation and find a way to resolve it. Success for me comes in meeting the
challenge and growing from the experience.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">5th April 2012</span></div>
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</div>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17936841596623221054noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3855601948400120759.post-27916996536589009762012-07-24T02:25:00.002-07:002012-07-24T02:25:19.475-07:00Anticipation - the beginning<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The excitement of getting a place in the TGO 2012 led to the reality of getting fit and ready to meet 'The Challenge' of walking solo across Scotland. I had done lots of long distance walking before, but knew that this was a whole new ballgame. Winter months were spent in the gym with occasional forays up Winter Hill (Near Bolton, Lancashire).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">March saw longer days and my first real training walk, trying out my new tent and some other equipment. Here is what I wrote when I got home:</span><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 10.0pt; mso-pagination: widow-orphan; text-align: justify; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-word; text-justify: inter-word;">
<span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12.0pt; language: en-GB; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: en-GB; mso-arabic-font-family: Arial; mso-armenian-font-family: Arial; mso-ascii-font-family: Arial; mso-currency-font-family: Arial; mso-cyrillic-font-family: Arial; mso-default-font-family: Arial; mso-greek-font-family: Arial; mso-hebrew-font-family: Arial; mso-latin-font-family: Arial; mso-latinext-font-family: Arial; mso-ligatures: none;">All winter I had been training with the trek across Scotland in mind. All other treks I have done before are little in comparison. This one is BIG! Nearly 200 miles, across the mountains of Scotland, on my own, carrying all my camping gear, food, water…. I had to be strong as well as fit. Hours in the gym and on the hill brought me to my first overnight training trek – a ‘ 3 day trundle’ across the moors from Littleborough home to Westhoughton, using routes such as the Rossendale Way and the Pennine Bridleway.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 10.0pt; mso-pagination: widow-orphan; text-align: justify; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-word; text-justify: inter-word;">
<span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12.0pt; language: en-GB; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: en-GB; mso-arabic-font-family: Arial; mso-armenian-font-family: Arial; mso-ascii-font-family: Arial; mso-currency-font-family: Arial; mso-cyrillic-font-family: Arial; mso-default-font-family: Arial; mso-greek-font-family: Arial; mso-hebrew-font-family: Arial; mso-latin-font-family: Arial; mso-latinext-font-family: Arial; mso-ligatures: none;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 12pt;">I was testing my gear as well as testing my fitness. With some trepidation I set up my first wildcamp of the year. </span><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 12pt;">Night one saw me under clear skies on the moors looking westwards at the sunset through the wind-farm on Scout Moor. Stunning. What was there to worry about?</span>
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<span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12.0pt; language: en-GB; line-height: 119%; mso-ansi-language: en-GB; mso-arabic-font-family: Arial; mso-armenian-font-family: Arial; mso-ascii-font-family: Arial; mso-currency-font-family: Arial; mso-cyrillic-font-family: Arial; mso-default-font-family: Arial; mso-greek-font-family: Arial; mso-hebrew-font-family: Arial; mso-latin-font-family: Arial; mso-latinext-font-family: Arial; mso-ligatures: none;">The next day started with a fabluous trog across the old cart-roads that serviced a series of old quarries up high on the moors, now the Rossendale Way. Gradually the windfarm came closer - then I passed it behind me.</span></div>
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<span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12.0pt; language: en-GB; line-height: 119%; mso-ansi-language: en-GB; mso-arabic-font-family: Arial; mso-armenian-font-family: Arial; mso-ascii-font-family: Arial; mso-currency-font-family: Arial; mso-cyrillic-font-family: Arial; mso-default-font-family: Arial; mso-greek-font-family: Arial; mso-hebrew-font-family: Arial; mso-latin-font-family: Arial; mso-latinext-font-family: Arial; mso-ligatures: none;">After a great lunch at the ‘Bizzy Plaice’ in Edenfield, and a boggy yomp over Holcombe Moor, dusk fell on the second night with me hiding myself away in woodland near a reservoir to the east of Bolton, then getting up and away in the morning before dog-walkers were about.
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<span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12.0pt; language: en-GB; line-height: 119%; mso-ansi-language: en-GB; mso-arabic-font-family: Arial; mso-armenian-font-family: Arial; mso-ascii-font-family: Arial; mso-currency-font-family: Arial; mso-cyrillic-font-family: Arial; mso-default-font-family: Arial; mso-greek-font-family: Arial; mso-hebrew-font-family: Arial; mso-latin-font-family: Arial; mso-latinext-font-family: Arial; mso-ligatures: none;">It was lovely being able to track my progress by looking back at the wind-farm disappearing into the distance in the east. </span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2k0D_ffAGe4/UA5pR5-VzwI/AAAAAAAAAAk/YFXuiMa0ONQ/s1600/IMGP3395.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2k0D_ffAGe4/UA5pR5-VzwI/AAAAAAAAAAk/YFXuiMa0ONQ/s320/IMGP3395.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="en-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12.0pt; language: en-GB; line-height: 119%; mso-ansi-language: en-GB; mso-arabic-font-family: Arial; mso-armenian-font-family: Arial; mso-ascii-font-family: Arial; mso-currency-font-family: Arial; mso-cyrillic-font-family: Arial; mso-default-font-family: Arial; mso-greek-font-family: Arial; mso-hebrew-font-family: Arial; mso-latin-font-family: Arial; mso-latinext-font-family: Arial; mso-ligatures: none;"><span style="background-color: white;">I ended my day walking back up over Winter Hill - and onto home ground. </span>All in all a great three days, perfect start to the year's big walking.</span></div>
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<br /></div>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17936841596623221054noreply@blogger.com0